tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-54064411496537917222024-03-06T00:51:48.588-08:00Wang`s VerdenWanghttp://www.blogger.com/profile/14840965362641239826noreply@blogger.comBlogger42125tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5406441149653791722.post-16438601557502605442014-03-14T12:02:00.002-07:002014-03-14T12:34:18.639-07:00January, the month that passed me by<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
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As I mentioned in my last post; the real red-point. I got very close on Fabelita on new years eve, falling basically fresh at the endurance crux, just slightly missing a hold..</div>
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Then January arrived and despite my efforts I felt worse on the route. Obsessed with the project and unable to really focus on anything else the month then just seemed to pass me by.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhPPtJujuQwi-E-cfxuk7gXC_yr86GnhijRHwsQiSl7t2nN6yxOWGj5A7WNWOr33qxPkRZg0Xzjy4ok_qigUracpoHU1aQHtxvdQQl86GwE5Os-FjjI2obwHxT0jNGeuhjvoiAZ2-oD7PY/s1600/fabelita+info+skitch+photoshop.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhPPtJujuQwi-E-cfxuk7gXC_yr86GnhijRHwsQiSl7t2nN6yxOWGj5A7WNWOr33qxPkRZg0Xzjy4ok_qigUracpoHU1aQHtxvdQQl86GwE5Os-FjjI2obwHxT0jNGeuhjvoiAZ2-oD7PY/s1600/fabelita+info+skitch+photoshop.jpg" height="426" width="640" /></a></div>
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<i>"Fabelita" </i></div>
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There were however a precious few days of respite, days where I for one reason or another got away from the cave and managed to at least partly enjoy myself climbing on something different.</div>
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The first of these came with my friends and team mates Ole Karsten and Olav coming down for a weekend trip from Sogndal (Norway) psyched on seeing the awesome cliffs of Terradets and Margalef.</div>
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Having thought Fabelita would be in the bag long before they arrived, I had casually volunteered to act as a guide showing them around.</div>
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Initially leaving the cave when conditions seemed good felt every kind of wrong, but inspired by the older guys youthful enthusiasm, I found myself enjoying a bit of a break. </div>
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Terradets turned into a pretty good day, including a surprise send of Trecking (8a+) in the sun, before a rushed return to the cave and a decent attempt on Fabelita just at the last light was fading. </div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj-5zCOc6hpZAp2npvoSlT31wuLYn7N3brfmioz-HFGR78JBHghyphenhyphenFojmlhX6bzBQSgZ96grHu8MlhjcPesLfILBts47t6e9D4kBUZyTGAMj0CbBpTOkqkhsJoA5gP1B_Wpi1YHmmhQ9cJE/s1600/Januar+blogg+3.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj-5zCOc6hpZAp2npvoSlT31wuLYn7N3brfmioz-HFGR78JBHghyphenhyphenFojmlhX6bzBQSgZ96grHu8MlhjcPesLfILBts47t6e9D4kBUZyTGAMj0CbBpTOkqkhsJoA5gP1B_Wpi1YHmmhQ9cJE/s1600/Januar+blogg+3.jpg" height="426" width="640" /></a></div>
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<i>"The classic wall of Bruixes in Terradets, here in a photo slightly fucked by blogger..."</i></div>
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<i>"Olav on perhaps the best route on the wall, Energia Positiva, 35m, 7c+"</i></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg1iffoqlL0DhnN3xfrZuJFM6XonG3OVJHUHKTSKQaC7jj_VGMsJAbwiXu0uoIWzyNqVCWe2CzyESQd2cAMBQ_iu2DevxuDbgm0X0Z9pxP5Km5-GdovGB6QqdlHMTmQPzgBXdwjmEvfC6A/s1600/terradets+3.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg1iffoqlL0DhnN3xfrZuJFM6XonG3OVJHUHKTSKQaC7jj_VGMsJAbwiXu0uoIWzyNqVCWe2CzyESQd2cAMBQ_iu2DevxuDbgm0X0Z9pxP5Km5-GdovGB6QqdlHMTmQPzgBXdwjmEvfC6A/s1600/terradets+3.jpg" height="640" width="426" /></a></div>
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"Olav nearing his highpoint on Energia, again photo for some reason a bit fucked by blogger..."</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj9dBHfpiV94X1KqzhH4UE7zKPVbRK9ePtOHAlu7Tz7D83nvYeUtVT90gZsKWPCZWsdixY4TL4CtsrqLpGzKKTigDxIFTkGTqNgWzt1XNb1wRga1mrnJD_nueeYRrAw273Pg2pZLioBz58/s1600/Januar+blogg+2.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj9dBHfpiV94X1KqzhH4UE7zKPVbRK9ePtOHAlu7Tz7D83nvYeUtVT90gZsKWPCZWsdixY4TL4CtsrqLpGzKKTigDxIFTkGTqNgWzt1XNb1wRga1mrnJD_nueeYRrAw273Pg2pZLioBz58/s1600/Januar+blogg+2.jpg" height="426" width="640" /></a></div>
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<i>"Olav testing the final heartbreaker moves of Energia, Ole Karstens highpoint" </i></div>
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After the day in Terradets bad weather struck and we once again found us returning to the cave.</div>
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Conditions were however far from prime so both Magnus and I spent the day training on routes we had done before instead of getting shut down on the projects.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhi6FPOYMWyd1Q-iKFJfOgRxRBBswp774VXMLF9pxw88_zG8LeJ91tErqF22-z3tdhK4JPmcH2v8MPEkGEwes12IxRCH17MqodG07YeAiUTWE6mx7uij6QRZHcYBbpvBED4tPcubp56Tkw/s1600/Januar+blogg+5.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhi6FPOYMWyd1Q-iKFJfOgRxRBBswp774VXMLF9pxw88_zG8LeJ91tErqF22-z3tdhK4JPmcH2v8MPEkGEwes12IxRCH17MqodG07YeAiUTWE6mx7uij6QRZHcYBbpvBED4tPcubp56Tkw/s1600/Januar+blogg+5.jpg" height="426" width="640" /></a></div>
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<i>"Roger observing how a tufa that was dry earlier in the day now seem to be leading a small waterfall, Olav and Ole Karsten climbing on a bouldery 7b+ in the background"</i></div>
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Bad weather, often a source of much frustration, has at least for the photographer in me it´s brighter sides. When the rain finally stops these beautiful light conditions sometimes appear, natural phenomenons better described through the camera then with words. </div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjZ5OlZxH7gcQwF5hMYfxPrI3-R09YwKg8iMbpFDKIEnznpdm840zBB7m61lJeaxt10S0nI_yMGVGFlXWh9dXpKwrucV0RMdAD9TUTYnB9FiwhplZxSMpE5O9GKBbf4u0qru-2EDCxaJhE/s1600/Januar+blogg+6.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjZ5OlZxH7gcQwF5hMYfxPrI3-R09YwKg8iMbpFDKIEnznpdm840zBB7m61lJeaxt10S0nI_yMGVGFlXWh9dXpKwrucV0RMdAD9TUTYnB9FiwhplZxSMpE5O9GKBbf4u0qru-2EDCxaJhE/s1600/Januar+blogg+6.jpg" height="426" width="640" /></a></div>
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<i>"The rainbow graces the cave with it´s presence, a sight I´v´not seen before in my 4 season here" </i></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh487w_7-C7XWJVC_MDCG57RGZwAAaVWzrUYqjTkGs-PSiNs2GN5HZPDflLZm6SQieuaHZNF15gVjWradZQRMspRP1myH8vwCgDTcf0dEQ4jbZXTwJ_xWZAFkkcJeyVMYTxuTggklXlzBo/s1600/Januar+blogg+7.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh487w_7-C7XWJVC_MDCG57RGZwAAaVWzrUYqjTkGs-PSiNs2GN5HZPDflLZm6SQieuaHZNF15gVjWradZQRMspRP1myH8vwCgDTcf0dEQ4jbZXTwJ_xWZAFkkcJeyVMYTxuTggklXlzBo/s1600/Januar+blogg+7.jpg" height="426" width="640" /></a></div>
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<i>"The rainclouds dissipating in the surreal light of the setting sun" </i></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjlrYDZztDlDoKaqNjDywAyEpE3Lqt829WYwW9XVGvOAZCV1c889cSwR-n7sVMcXnEwaRvX28YEDuRaM5Snyrqz_5xeB10F24mTxi9ElXloyUzrNNbuvGBnlVY4ADsibHyc7d84cpNTX1c/s1600/byen+timelaps+natt.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjlrYDZztDlDoKaqNjDywAyEpE3Lqt829WYwW9XVGvOAZCV1c889cSwR-n7sVMcXnEwaRvX28YEDuRaM5Snyrqz_5xeB10F24mTxi9ElXloyUzrNNbuvGBnlVY4ADsibHyc7d84cpNTX1c/s1600/byen+timelaps+natt.jpg" height="426" width="640" /></a></div>
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<i>"The humidity on the ground rising up to form the fog "la niebla" over the Santa Linya village in the foreground and Avellanes in the background. 30-ish sec exposure at around 3 in the morning."</i> </div>
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Despite the heavy rain of the previous day, Ole Karsten and Olav were psyched to go climbing. With basically everything wet, we got in the car and drove down to Margalef, about 1,5 hour with me or Magnus behind the wheel, but more like 2 hours++ with Ole Karsten driving like an old lady.<br />
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Once there, we found the valley soaked, so like everybody else we ended up at Espadelles. Magnus rapidly onsighted the few dry routes we could find, a brand new 7c+ with no chalk and holds breaking left and right, and a super cool 8a that I should have done, but didn´t, falling several times at the last hard move trying to find a small blind pocket.<br />
Ole Karsten and Olav also managed to find a piece of almost dry rock, Olav getting very close and Ole Karsten sending.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhRP76uxY1eoo9F5qaYgxhD4F7phOyZVrVhrAH4zwuDNZHkBodOVNLseeOzmfUtdtY_DFoaaKiTNn55-QOL6JBdETo-Pnd-Uqqz8OHvRsEd50zflfPR6nAHM0TN-u_PSRQUEpQwrSvQsnM/s1600/Januar+blogg+8.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhRP76uxY1eoo9F5qaYgxhD4F7phOyZVrVhrAH4zwuDNZHkBodOVNLseeOzmfUtdtY_DFoaaKiTNn55-QOL6JBdETo-Pnd-Uqqz8OHvRsEd50zflfPR6nAHM0TN-u_PSRQUEpQwrSvQsnM/s1600/Januar+blogg+8.jpg" height="426" width="640" /></a></div>
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<i>"Olav on the first boulder crux on a classic short semi dry 7b+"</i> </div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhVLFRNe31rI0_vondEx9eViDb89n-UHmS7hAGISOOZoebwcn1Zz5sPoqV-3pt_HRzXfapP_J3m-H0FlETLQACmnlmgqIvL_Vy3_6JY2XWmcczeX0zsot6Hlz28yar_2jQG6gPifq7z-KQ/s1600/Januar+blogg+9.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhVLFRNe31rI0_vondEx9eViDb89n-UHmS7hAGISOOZoebwcn1Zz5sPoqV-3pt_HRzXfapP_J3m-H0FlETLQACmnlmgqIvL_Vy3_6JY2XWmcczeX0zsot6Hlz28yar_2jQG6gPifq7z-KQ/s1600/Januar+blogg+9.jpg" height="640" width="426" /></a></div>
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<i>"Ole Karsten, having stuck the move, manages to go all the way"</i></div>
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Ole Karsten and Olav then returned to their grown up jobs in Norway, leaving Magnus, Roger and me once again alone in the house.</div>
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With the cave now dripping wet, Neanderthal was as it usually is when Magnus is here, more or less impossible, so we got back in the car and headed up to Oliana for a day. </div>
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In Oliana I had a surprisingly good day, on-sighting both a tricky bouldery 7c and a technical endurance 7c+, in addition to playing around a bit on Marroncita (8b).</div>
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Roger had a great warm-up flash attempt on the first 7a+ part of Marroncita, but as the day went on seemed to get more and more tired, getting to the same place, but unable to go the last two meters to the anchor.</div>
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Magnus, continuing his string of bad luck, warmed up on-sighting a new 8a+ and then struck out. First by falling off the on-sight on Gorilas en la niebla (8b+) some 40+ meters up on the upper slab. With all the hard climbing more or less behind him, he found himself out of quickdraws in a maze of similar looking tufa blobs where the rain had washed away all the chalk.</div>
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Frustrated he then got on China Crisis (8b+), but after a good fight struck out again on the last move of the crux mid section. </div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhueQmxpsxCHKAoIAkiMcRIy9H-TERFq2MnNZAkouupfkLHXo7tuiUc6Jus32it446FKocK664NIXSN8TcAvyYBSxbrfnQr-KxUWxemTyDN-THS8BEuqQKWj_Ta2bcqCY2-wpaM5XrVu1Q/s1600/Januar+blogg+11.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhueQmxpsxCHKAoIAkiMcRIy9H-TERFq2MnNZAkouupfkLHXo7tuiUc6Jus32it446FKocK664NIXSN8TcAvyYBSxbrfnQr-KxUWxemTyDN-THS8BEuqQKWj_Ta2bcqCY2-wpaM5XrVu1Q/s1600/Januar+blogg+11.jpg" height="426" width="640" /></a></div>
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<i>"Magnus on his on-sight attempt on </i><span style="text-align: left;"><i>Gorilas en la niebla 8b+</i>"</span></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg26p7mxeKHi4XegER_0envxv0qUiYsKyJ6spTuUg5inQ5EdTPPS6T2R-H8rHWNug0upcijrJCfmXVOPC56uAgKWuW7xd8TAb57t7wruy_WY2Fk-e8Geg811NXOB8CLWYZ0BQOq9UPj__c/s1600/Januar+blogg+12.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg26p7mxeKHi4XegER_0envxv0qUiYsKyJ6spTuUg5inQ5EdTPPS6T2R-H8rHWNug0upcijrJCfmXVOPC56uAgKWuW7xd8TAb57t7wruy_WY2Fk-e8Geg811NXOB8CLWYZ0BQOq9UPj__c/s1600/Januar+blogg+12.jpg" height="640" width="426" /></a></div>
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<i>"Magnus 40-ish meters up on the final slab of </i><span style="text-align: left;"><i>Gorilas en la niebla 8b+</i>"</span></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiC7KXVBwuJhkhbmOwB8NvCg7HwITO5GoRlkdzkblv7Th8RPN1UZqO4waORm-uvLc9wzqnsYfx5W_3TmLitdgSJM9mQqk11HDcgGQUPV0Z_lKnnPO4kTZOm4p5NKMYmV6kxaey_hGWI9Ks/s1600/Januar+blogg+10.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiC7KXVBwuJhkhbmOwB8NvCg7HwITO5GoRlkdzkblv7Th8RPN1UZqO4waORm-uvLc9wzqnsYfx5W_3TmLitdgSJM9mQqk11HDcgGQUPV0Z_lKnnPO4kTZOm4p5NKMYmV6kxaey_hGWI9Ks/s1600/Januar+blogg+10.jpg" height="640" width="426" /></a></div>
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<i>"Fuuuuck!"</i> </div>
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Now based on these pictures and short stories it might seem as we got around and climbed a lot, but the truth is that this was 3 days in a month, the rest being spent getting shut down on the projects in the cave..<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgoIwEsilODzaJh5eHn3BKA61KmLmUCzvMqi_wKcxOAI6qiLQwNhD3t9oHcxdLA5roXZGjQJne7669fdRQYTEEyWja4xoKXpXTpJk4LujCjGXiXDpx0o_NgSJeQQZNdYthr_UvWUVTRTzI/s1600/Roger+%25281%2529.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgoIwEsilODzaJh5eHn3BKA61KmLmUCzvMqi_wKcxOAI6qiLQwNhD3t9oHcxdLA5roXZGjQJne7669fdRQYTEEyWja4xoKXpXTpJk4LujCjGXiXDpx0o_NgSJeQQZNdYthr_UvWUVTRTzI/s1600/Roger+%25281%2529.jpg" height="640" width="426" /></a></div>
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<i>"Roger setting up for the crux on his project Arqueologico (7c) in the cave"</i></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgVswA57-qqyuYWgvmiz1TNLNdVTACj9n6b2L8q72hia5QJgxS9tJ_sof1YfQbJL6hOXqo-CQDQsjIj6PD1egRljDOOtuYWmNwD7q-9j9vvybFvbwpNZbrzh-WmOe06wrCxYRRMDHy17EQ/s1600/Januar+blogg+15.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgVswA57-qqyuYWgvmiz1TNLNdVTACj9n6b2L8q72hia5QJgxS9tJ_sof1YfQbJL6hOXqo-CQDQsjIj6PD1egRljDOOtuYWmNwD7q-9j9vvybFvbwpNZbrzh-WmOe06wrCxYRRMDHy17EQ/s1600/Januar+blogg+15.jpg" height="640" width="426" /></a></div>
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<i>"While Roger chills in a knee-bar, I contemplate changing my barely 2 month old Sportivas.." </i></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjg90e1pSSHxijZDeEMLAdE5cuL6819J-o749N2uhGWFrrfRIz63QLDaU__kz-07dJOYbzDY0iHZ3R_qxN9lL6Jm7P6vLfQxUCG6q2GbtrmcIuY69W_cxQUZDtulXHxQI2tc6-M8rxRZHQ/s1600/Januar+blogg+17.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjg90e1pSSHxijZDeEMLAdE5cuL6819J-o749N2uhGWFrrfRIz63QLDaU__kz-07dJOYbzDY0iHZ3R_qxN9lL6Jm7P6vLfQxUCG6q2GbtrmcIuY69W_cxQUZDtulXHxQI2tc6-M8rxRZHQ/s1600/Januar+blogg+17.jpg" height="426" width="640" /></a></div>
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<i>"Having gotten through the hard lower section of </i><i>Arqueologico</i><i> for the first time, Roger, having recovered as much as possible in the knee-bar, is faced with the final steep 7a section to the anchor" </i></div>
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Roger then fell of a few moves higher on a awkward high heel hook rock-over slap move, joining me and Magnus in the close but no cigar category.<br />
<br />
Despite wet holds Magnus kept trying Neanderthal, 95% of the time getting up to the dyno just to slip and slide and fail to stick the move.<br />
Like last spring it turned into a sort of routine, one go in the evening, slippery and wet holds, falling at the dyno, going down or pulling back up and easily linking the section.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEicHcQXY1Krqq5tXYXWtp4z30f8yh3iQTlfD01bGeosxbLbS5UbCBt_jNWcHnzb2MJ-T8bIWT37WtHECkW4_fRR-Qxa6veJvKjxZu7NGc3FSQfmn7I8FehUzi94pPQ8sH-KzyoVhkcxjDw/s1600/Magnus+-+Neanderthal.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEicHcQXY1Krqq5tXYXWtp4z30f8yh3iQTlfD01bGeosxbLbS5UbCBt_jNWcHnzb2MJ-T8bIWT37WtHECkW4_fRR-Qxa6veJvKjxZu7NGc3FSQfmn7I8FehUzi94pPQ8sH-KzyoVhkcxjDw/s1600/Magnus+-+Neanderthal.jpg" height="640" width="426" /></a> </div>
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<i>"After having pulled back up Magnus sticks the dyno every time, here on on a rare in the sun attempt before the rain came."</i></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhix5ckdIIrRpU4IZR6BKZtLwIRF6U2kZbUhAaLPdGmIXmbeogmeDmbxOMpwHp0DCrESoNlgZGRHv9nB_prrtGlxiC1fpIq5R3KdkVJ65hFFY8auCimoq3U9TaKk-fiOu1Oo5oAkTkfseA/s1600/Screen+Shot+va%CC%8Ar+tufa+i+fjor.png" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhix5ckdIIrRpU4IZR6BKZtLwIRF6U2kZbUhAaLPdGmIXmbeogmeDmbxOMpwHp0DCrESoNlgZGRHv9nB_prrtGlxiC1fpIq5R3KdkVJ65hFFY8auCimoq3U9TaKk-fiOu1Oo5oAkTkfseA/s1600/Screen+Shot+va%CC%8Ar+tufa+i+fjor.png" height="400" width="640" /></a></div>
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<i>"The normal conditions on Neanderthal, black tufa equals wet tufa, here from last spring" </i></div>
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At some point the collective then gained a few members again when my polish friend Matheusz and his friend Wojciech moved in for a few days. </div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhQfRKQxytoxupKDkwxskBVTONX5x5rOHKrQQySHGMOdlD58Tuy7lGI9_tmqajr9R9zh45C5ue0Wp2goJd8EXj1LxVz_cokPC3e8BIs_y-IVFWLyhZC9AuVQv7SKktBnuYqlvd5KsIFTl0/s1600/Januar+blogg+13.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhQfRKQxytoxupKDkwxskBVTONX5x5rOHKrQQySHGMOdlD58Tuy7lGI9_tmqajr9R9zh45C5ue0Wp2goJd8EXj1LxVz_cokPC3e8BIs_y-IVFWLyhZC9AuVQv7SKktBnuYqlvd5KsIFTl0/s1600/Januar+blogg+13.jpg" height="426" width="640" /></a></div>
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<i> "<span style="text-align: left;">Primo and Gonzalo, living in their cars down at the parking, joining us one evening. Almost a party, just missing the girls..</span><span style="text-align: left;"> From left to right: Roger, Magnus, Primo, Gonzalo, Matheusz, </span></i><span style="text-align: left;"><i>Wojciech"</i></span><br />
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And just like that, january was gone. Except for what I´v written above, a vague memory I barely recall.</div>
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Luckily february was coming up, a month I´v always felt better. But since this was about january, february will have to wait for the next post :)</div>
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Wanghttp://www.blogger.com/profile/14840965362641239826noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5406441149653791722.post-77502501027697692812014-02-21T09:41:00.000-08:002014-02-23T05:12:16.681-08:00The "real" red-point<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
Since I started spending my winters in Spain 4 years ago, I´v constantly been involved with a project somewhat beyond my current climbing level.<br />
When I first came here I figured since I had done several 8a´s in the past and up to 8A boulder the year before, I should be able to get up an 8b route quickly.<br />
I was wrong.<br />
I got completely shut down, having focused on bouldering for many years I was not mentally prepared for the challenge.<br />
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I remember hearing about how easy it was to red-point hard routes in Spain. It seemed to be just a question of having a bit of endurance and trying enough times, given enough time anyone could do it.<br />
Onsighting was the real challenge, the "pure" form of sport climbing, much harder since you only had one chance.<br />
Now that might be true if hard red-pointing was about sending something in 2-10 tries, or if it was just a physical effort, but it´s not.<br />
Red-point as a concept starts as soon as you have failed to do a route in your first attempt, be that onsight (without beta) or flash (with beta), but sending a route well within your level and comfort sone in a few tries has nothing to do with hard red-pointing, or what I would call real red-pointing.<br />
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<i></i></div>
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<i><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjuSj4MiaZvf_OSp5PlfWURNNfDbILxKqfDbeKArzvSPXGzM8ggpqAnBoMM6tR3ZkH5NYs0M5hV7MwFAjU5sd07au0K4xK26zV6_puZ961vSWtO8pFZW2DGpsCWFNKcABePN6kel-JoMsg/s1600/Magnus+8c+terradets.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjuSj4MiaZvf_OSp5PlfWURNNfDbILxKqfDbeKArzvSPXGzM8ggpqAnBoMM6tR3ZkH5NYs0M5hV7MwFAjU5sd07au0K4xK26zV6_puZ961vSWtO8pFZW2DGpsCWFNKcABePN6kel-JoMsg/s1600/Magnus+8c+terradets.jpg" height="426" width="640" /></a></i></div>
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<i>"After a failed flash attempt and a small foot slip Magnus easily dispatches Essencia de la Resistencia 8c(+) in Terradets on his third go, a red-point light </i><i>in lack of a better word</i><i>"</i></div>
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A real red-point is when you need to spend a lot of time working something because the difficulty is not just far beyond your onsight level, but beyond what you are capable of linking together after figuring out the moves.<br />
It´s so hard that even when you can do most of the sections fairly easily you can still manage to fall of 30, 50, 100 times or more once you start going from the ground.<br />
This because, despite what some might think, hard sport climbing is not just a physical effort, nor is it about climbing with pumped arms, slugging through the motions, lifting one arm after the other.<br />
It´s about linking complex moves together, often hitting small holds or pockets with precision (low % moves) and somehow having enough energy to pull at 80-90% at the end of a hard sequence.<br />
It´s about staying focused and motivated, pulling hard and fighting while at the same time saving energy, climbing efficiently and recovering on the route, keeping the pump away long enough to get to either the next rest or the top. <br />
<br />
To achieve success at your very limit everything needs to come together.<br />
You need to have the necessary power and endurance, be rested, motivated, focused and warmed up, climb flawlessly and then on top of that have a bit of luck and good conditions. <br />
It´s for me by far the most demanding aspect of climbing as a sport, requiring just as much mental strength as physical power, endurance and technique.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjcY1TQNj7yeXvPmLbOt85gNoNIYOnKUEShqK_BKqXsZhPkLdDMMVSpwezhYfQ47z9Iu0UQuXluU7odF51RCoFhAdCMq9PpR-5_tRovCZbT4ZTkSaLhlkx75Dav2LsBGvGtKt4PZR7e7Xg/s1600/Primo+analogica.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjcY1TQNj7yeXvPmLbOt85gNoNIYOnKUEShqK_BKqXsZhPkLdDMMVSpwezhYfQ47z9Iu0UQuXluU7odF51RCoFhAdCMq9PpR-5_tRovCZbT4ZTkSaLhlkx75Dav2LsBGvGtKt4PZR7e7Xg/s1600/Primo+analogica.jpg" height="640" width="426" /></a></div>
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<i>"Primo, a true red-pointer, here facing his nemesis move at the very top of Analogica Natural ext 9a"</i></div>
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Now the line between a boulder an a route can be blurred, there are short bouldery routes and there are long boulders. In theory red-pointing a boulder can in some cases be much the same as red-pointing a route or visa versa.<br />
This has never been my experience, but coming from the wizard himself I can´t ignore that this in some cases might be true.<br />
<br />
For me personally bouldering is a different game entirely. Usually the moves separately are harder, but in most cases there are so few of them that I get many tries and don´t need to save energy or climb efficiently. I need to focus, but rarely for long, the battle often being over one way or the other before I ever really start fighting.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj7ptktR-t-rTvS0eOsWv1n1z12p0XBLV344aY0RSKWmW0YB2BBTI8BnfOIsAiVssz3xDMX-UunTia9U0PHvaehGbLhS6zBINTMZpA2pl6VY_SLt8NRdHfGmnWsaBsDerjyvarlp8uS12g/s1600/meg+bulder.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj7ptktR-t-rTvS0eOsWv1n1z12p0XBLV344aY0RSKWmW0YB2BBTI8BnfOIsAiVssz3xDMX-UunTia9U0PHvaehGbLhS6zBINTMZpA2pl6VY_SLt8NRdHfGmnWsaBsDerjyvarlp8uS12g/s1600/meg+bulder.jpg" height="426" width="640" /></a></div>
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<i>"Me on the classic boulder L'Æil de Sybille in Font, hard single move, short battle"</i></div>
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On a route at my very limit it's different.<br />
Because of conditions or just the difficulty and physical drain of the climb, you more often then not only get one good try in a day.<br />
Knowing that, the mental focus required becomes that much stronger, a focus that given time becomes a demanding mental drain.<br />
Climbing is easy, it's all the the waiting thats hard.<br />
Keeping the motivation over time and preforming at 100% every try after having had all day to psych yourself out. This is something I´v never encountered on a boulder, not by a long shot.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgYsHG0o6Z9sIqHaXADx8W753s8Uz3EeZAXddSPCqUmuDvUseQ7VCki-YRYDXCvThlm8YY3ldtGz0fMSzuoyG1pjcpW3RjlX3n7GCxJqvS1fZ5ODMxkKdPFLShbXyj1HmydUU3e8B_XUsc/s1600/Magnus+dyno.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgYsHG0o6Z9sIqHaXADx8W753s8Uz3EeZAXddSPCqUmuDvUseQ7VCki-YRYDXCvThlm8YY3ldtGz0fMSzuoyG1pjcpW3RjlX3n7GCxJqvS1fZ5ODMxkKdPFLShbXyj1HmydUU3e8B_XUsc/s1600/Magnus+dyno.jpg" height="640" width="512" /></a></div>
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<i>"Magnus on the ultimate mental challenge, Neanderthal 9b. Getting only one try a day, he has to climb flawlessly up a solid 9a with barely any place to stop, just to face this super frustrating 7C dyno"</i></div>
<div>
<br /></div>
Onsighting, although difficult in it´s own way, can´t really compare.<br />
This because as soon as you get over the initial fear of falling and gain the ability to climb without restraints in unknown terrain, it becomes fairly easy to give the attempt a 100% effort. After all, you only have that one try and wether you make it or not it, that will be the end of it. <br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiMe7-ej8p9Ag6fdYT-AknRGh-GLRGs7xQkm6J-PnbC7kA3ccGrU4Z6iu2XosWfHU9_t_PWyhsfdXY2uRQJS4W6nursw6pNod38sOAnXqAz6ll44FtRphmvdav-IluEbe3FxXjzHGVgHQA/s1600/ondra+onsight.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiMe7-ej8p9Ag6fdYT-AknRGh-GLRGs7xQkm6J-PnbC7kA3ccGrU4Z6iu2XosWfHU9_t_PWyhsfdXY2uRQJS4W6nursw6pNod38sOAnXqAz6ll44FtRphmvdav-IluEbe3FxXjzHGVgHQA/s1600/ondra+onsight.jpg" height="426" width="640" /></a></div>
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<i>"Adam "the Wizard" Ondra on a pure no chalk or draws on-sight in Margalef" </i></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj0Dx-A4x43nDMrCxH2Hnl27-HI3QBuA_O2lQlf846s9cbq76-mr83gc9d4LUDLkDkQmMEh_dJa0Pjon4Q68TMYd60VGAfkan28THdufDUZrSlH2e4uXfAyiy4hKWs7rUD_Od7OssacnGI/s1600/Magnus+cosi+os.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj0Dx-A4x43nDMrCxH2Hnl27-HI3QBuA_O2lQlf846s9cbq76-mr83gc9d4LUDLkDkQmMEh_dJa0Pjon4Q68TMYd60VGAfkan28THdufDUZrSlH2e4uXfAyiy4hKWs7rUD_Od7OssacnGI/s1600/Magnus+cosi+os.jpg" height="640" width="426" /></a></div>
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<i>"Magnus taking a mental break from the hardship of trying to red-point Neanderthal and enjoys a nice day of on-sighting in Rodellar last spring. Here bagging the classic 8c+ Cosi Fan Tutte" </i></div>
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The red-point process starts out the same as the onsight attempt with lots of motivation and energy, and as long as there is progress confidence stays high and it´s fairly easy.<br />
But then, once you start hitting a wall, falling over and over again at the same move or getting negative progress, suddenly struggling on something you felt good on before, it becomes harder and harder to start with a clean slate and find the motivation to keep trying.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhI_j4pkdIB8O9LK3YOJcubSg9ZtCFVoilPw1HnttIgY3dWpWAM6RLpG5y_tB1OiiHRWMrIYaetNWOiyORzsqe8cFfjnWaG52sQ3FugW0dfXBSHnJoyD93lJIhGaP3Lg1nh2WhsqtH8924/s1600/Screen+Shot+2014-02-10+at+12.01.21+PM.png" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhI_j4pkdIB8O9LK3YOJcubSg9ZtCFVoilPw1HnttIgY3dWpWAM6RLpG5y_tB1OiiHRWMrIYaetNWOiyORzsqe8cFfjnWaG52sQ3FugW0dfXBSHnJoyD93lJIhGaP3Lg1nh2WhsqtH8924/s1600/Screen+Shot+2014-02-10+at+12.01.21+PM.png" height="400" width="640" /></a></div>
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<i>"Me once again hitting the wall, falling of the end of the Fabelita traverse for the xx-time"</i></div>
<br />
For me it´s at this point the real red-point begins and were it becomes the more demanding aspect. It turns into a head game, all about overcoming those mental barriers, to find the strength of will to push yourself beyond comfort, to get beyond the frustration of failure and self doubt and be able to stay optimistic and focus on each attempt, not worrying about the investment of time or on the should have´s and could have´s. <br />
Then, having somehow conquered that mental monster and given enough time and effort, everything might come together and you could find yourself at the anchor.<br />
But then again it might not happen, and despite all your effort the journey will end without a conclusion, throwing you right back into the ring with the mental monster, this time without a concrete way of facing it down.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgPPYUyQ45ySzz7J__z4Xyf6nFnjsTlTp5xdfj_jXE9RksiuNgT9zf6h8lG-NXIkD-R1HGs52QhfMnFETBUM3yPqAyjKunsVIQmeAZ-hTy-_XHiRZBYX-wzNZ2ArdQ2bnfXK4xT2E990kg/s1600/tom+catxasa.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgPPYUyQ45ySzz7J__z4Xyf6nFnjsTlTp5xdfj_jXE9RksiuNgT9zf6h8lG-NXIkD-R1HGs52QhfMnFETBUM3yPqAyjKunsVIQmeAZ-hTy-_XHiRZBYX-wzNZ2ArdQ2bnfXK4xT2E990kg/s1600/tom+catxasa.jpg" height="640" width="426" /></a></div>
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<i>"Tom Bolger chasing the second ascent of Catxasa 9a+ in Santa Linya. After two seasons of hard work he eventually injured his back while working on his house, never getting to finish his project.."</i></div>
<br />
Now, after 4 seasons, I have suffered through the ups and downs of the process enough times to roughly know what I´m in for. As a result I am not just mentally stronger, I am prepared.<br />
<br />
The first season however was very different. <br />
More often then not I was afraid of falling, usually clipping way to early or just over-griping the holds when I got a bit above the bolts, making it very hard to really enjoy the climbing and give it a 100%.<br />
In addition I was unaccustomed to the constant failure of the red-point and lost both motivation and confidence several times, in the end to a point where I just tagged along with Hannah to belay and get on some 7a-ish routes I knew I could do.<br />
<br />
I realise now that I had never really experienced this kind of failure before.<br />
At home I had tried routes for months, even years, but I was doing other things and only got on the projects 1-2 times a week or less.<br />
Living down here and climbing on the same route almost every day the process became much more intense, to a point where it became hard to focus on anything else.<br />
It´s at this point when you are completely obsessed with this one thing that the failure gets to you.<br />
Chris Sharma talks about this in several films, but unless you actually experience it yourself it´s hard to really understand. <br />
<br />
<div style="text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgbIn08G18LEaSVRikBm28GOesgny7JW0xy0Coqphj4hBckuP_ZwDTLob_rkG3GFVXq5e4jrvgMdz50-YnaFMy8o29T9zEofafCXxFlNT7a5Z_qtCNzRz4HP1pHXpukOChgHg18pgIBzzY/s1600/Sharma+redpoint.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgbIn08G18LEaSVRikBm28GOesgny7JW0xy0Coqphj4hBckuP_ZwDTLob_rkG3GFVXq5e4jrvgMdz50-YnaFMy8o29T9zEofafCXxFlNT7a5Z_qtCNzRz4HP1pHXpukOChgHg18pgIBzzY/s1600/Sharma+redpoint.jpg" height="426" width="640" /></a></div>
<div style="text-align: center;">
<span style="font-style: italic;">"The legendary Chris Sharma on one of many red-point attempts on a 9b+ project in Oliana"</span> </div>
<br />
During my time here the fear of falling more or less disappeared to a point where I now objectively look at run-outs and skip the bolts if they cost energy to clip, as long as I won´t hit the ground, I rarely give it a second thought.<br />
<br />
<div style="text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi5dRaihsWR5U16t1AVzVSCVBxDBsIrHRFwfDeT0oO1VL4Za_w-14P0OoA25dBTR-xkovV6lRKcoPtc7u-VR5IHwKwayDTwz8cY4EeFldDLlEFsudV1h3b7sCAemrJJzvcLpKmMcPOabu8/s1600/Henning+fabelita+11.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi5dRaihsWR5U16t1AVzVSCVBxDBsIrHRFwfDeT0oO1VL4Za_w-14P0OoA25dBTR-xkovV6lRKcoPtc7u-VR5IHwKwayDTwz8cY4EeFldDLlEFsudV1h3b7sCAemrJJzvcLpKmMcPOabu8/s1600/Henning+fabelita+11.jpg" height="640" width="426" /></a></div>
<div style="text-align: center;">
<i>"Running it out to have that extra bit of power on the final hard move"</i></div>
<br />
<div style="text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg2qC_WN5pch7aNfEAYMg9f9FsZpNsE6H0RuMVT3XjRERG-h-G1OUq_LZeYCWU7h6eCbQVCjooGSaqyNClMUU0lgUBf-UGVjlFaoitE3HavzrT8j64rLLOXrLJshvmKBAmTYtjzAxEscvU/s1600/Screen+Shot+2014-02-10+at+12.09.33+PM.png" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg2qC_WN5pch7aNfEAYMg9f9FsZpNsE6H0RuMVT3XjRERG-h-G1OUq_LZeYCWU7h6eCbQVCjooGSaqyNClMUU0lgUBf-UGVjlFaoitE3HavzrT8j64rLLOXrLJshvmKBAmTYtjzAxEscvU/s1600/Screen+Shot+2014-02-10+at+12.09.33+PM.png" height="400" width="640" /></a></div>
<div style="text-align: center;">
<i>"Having skipped the last bolt I have to make this clip or risk hitting the ground"</i></div>
<br />
But though I might be prepared, I still find it hard at times when despite my best efforts progress comes so slowly that I almost doubt I´m moving forward at all.<br />
<br />
Having started my climbing career rather late and never having acquired the milage, I can´t climb as much, nor gain (regain) endurance as quickly as most of the climbers around me seem to.<br />
Being almost 80 kg´s as well I get tired (and/or injured) from to much steep climbing, and at least in the earlier stages of the process seem to need to climb just as much on easier routes on less steep ground to recover and build the necessary endurance or end up suffering muscular fatigue and negative progress.<br />
<br />
Since I got back to Spain in november, I´v spent a lot of my time on my project from last season, Fabelita (8c).<br />
In the spring I spent about 2 months on it, feeling close but getting shut down on the same moves over and over again in the crux traverse in the middle.<br />
<br />
<div style="text-align: center;">
<i>"The Fabelita traverse"</i><br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgoz8Pdcswo7dVLtk-rZU3IpS-rqVTvrVgITp9A1M5D-H3xskqMhRqvu8oba7IHmJQ497hp4bME5oZtP-4hyucog8cVRV7J7Na5aROWRPx2rHn_2i-4ThJXIQB4vKlOdAnDrGPTw5W2-7A/s1600/Henning+fabelita+2.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgoz8Pdcswo7dVLtk-rZU3IpS-rqVTvrVgITp9A1M5D-H3xskqMhRqvu8oba7IHmJQ497hp4bME5oZtP-4hyucog8cVRV7J7Na5aROWRPx2rHn_2i-4ThJXIQB4vKlOdAnDrGPTw5W2-7A/s1600/Henning+fabelita+2.jpg" height="426" width="640" /></a></div>
<i>"The classic rose-move"</i><br />
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhtBvsdaPt7fe_fi2aGQaXMuY9__L0Preeb7YzXOpKeGua9FjJWi2ZNsE2h9xa67t00WHZ8ui7wQWXwjUHxzAJsIqons1_bNemOcJZWQTamM_VFZqV02enXj1OMaBBrkzulT01fo5bNBGA/s1600/Henning+fabelita+6.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhtBvsdaPt7fe_fi2aGQaXMuY9__L0Preeb7YzXOpKeGua9FjJWi2ZNsE2h9xa67t00WHZ8ui7wQWXwjUHxzAJsIqons1_bNemOcJZWQTamM_VFZqV02enXj1OMaBBrkzulT01fo5bNBGA/s1600/Henning+fabelita+6.jpg" height="426" width="640" /></a><br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEguSor6umuvXiPL70y7UTYBxFxZYO4H4_c5McvGU2rbJUT35RqjTfK8Txq7Gpw97p1hgF-ckObXw41xoN-cNUQkobgkmdnT99L1tYkOBdnWsDb68fQTGizUe-cCCv7Rx-iCTjw3rp1cMqk/s1600/Henning+fabelita+3.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEguSor6umuvXiPL70y7UTYBxFxZYO4H4_c5McvGU2rbJUT35RqjTfK8Txq7Gpw97p1hgF-ckObXw41xoN-cNUQkobgkmdnT99L1tYkOBdnWsDb68fQTGizUe-cCCv7Rx-iCTjw3rp1cMqk/s1600/Henning+fabelita+3.jpg" height="426" width="640" /></a></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi6TRNaH-dGxQjgUMjEbHcDSTFeca6Wi5XGufTHRxcSZD6vitNEWHC_-jIlV-4WbVv2noQu27rx1-CfJ23iRltoUGEvIr_Guz7Ffp1PUeAU5wnCmA9pJJ7MDizP0RF5KctloiQJhOz4-Dg/s1600/Henning+fabelita+4.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi6TRNaH-dGxQjgUMjEbHcDSTFeca6Wi5XGufTHRxcSZD6vitNEWHC_-jIlV-4WbVv2noQu27rx1-CfJ23iRltoUGEvIr_Guz7Ffp1PUeAU5wnCmA9pJJ7MDizP0RF5KctloiQJhOz4-Dg/s1600/Henning+fabelita+4.jpg" height="426" width="640" /></a></div>
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjIRfXk5CEbGVdm98e6WG3fHeyltKBjDDLpc5yAInjSwVt8GPhNoeQ-ocC8DEBpshzRwniqr4VAWrNubCVxB-mG49tw1oAB97jaClmkcdc1havvU6YeYuJH0lGxhHFzuUMl5lAhbOCe3Ww/s1600/Henning+fabelita+7.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjIRfXk5CEbGVdm98e6WG3fHeyltKBjDDLpc5yAInjSwVt8GPhNoeQ-ocC8DEBpshzRwniqr4VAWrNubCVxB-mG49tw1oAB97jaClmkcdc1havvU6YeYuJH0lGxhHFzuUMl5lAhbOCe3Ww/s1600/Henning+fabelita+7.jpg" height="426" width="640" /></a><br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi82cp-O0UsLBFxYq_ymyJiEOalacsX3KeoXCy5YWeidHsQUY6K4Hfoi9I8GBxxOOlvlSC-t50lS6nYo9AOGLleq-LJ_nFiolY3AUt99IPr00Ln3g9VaHY0v4rgBwFR89D_DVMzhyxp3ek/s1600/Henning+fabelita+5.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi82cp-O0UsLBFxYq_ymyJiEOalacsX3KeoXCy5YWeidHsQUY6K4Hfoi9I8GBxxOOlvlSC-t50lS6nYo9AOGLleq-LJ_nFiolY3AUt99IPr00Ln3g9VaHY0v4rgBwFR89D_DVMzhyxp3ek/s1600/Henning+fabelita+5.jpg" height="426" width="640" /></a></div>
<i>"My crux move in the traverse, stabbing into a pocket while keeping body tension" </i><br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg69tQHwb3KcVIfFnomWmXcQ07uuwBIrpeBVv_sT4h8hDhHXHe8ArthMYnXyAdcQ_d1zXX2CYEm1K_BhTTdDoxixawS34tYdTEOR791aGRViuRXah_myL_9xtJEP7ONNML2P5mBNvmFocA/s1600/Henning+fabelita+8.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg69tQHwb3KcVIfFnomWmXcQ07uuwBIrpeBVv_sT4h8hDhHXHe8ArthMYnXyAdcQ_d1zXX2CYEm1K_BhTTdDoxixawS34tYdTEOR791aGRViuRXah_myL_9xtJEP7ONNML2P5mBNvmFocA/s1600/Henning+fabelita+8.jpg" height="426" width="640" /></a></div>
<i>"My highpoint from the spring, the last move of the traverse"</i><br />
<br /></div>
It got to a point were I could climb from before the traverse to the top on my warm-up without getting pumped and climb up to the traverse from the ground and feel completely fresh. But no matter how much I tried, I could not get through the traverse from the ground.<br />
<br />
When I got back this season (about 6 months later), I expected to be back up to the end of the traverse in a few weeks and be done with the project in a month.<br />
But thought I was feeling strong on some moves, I could not recover on the rests, the traverse felt hard and my endurance was barely enough for 15 moves.<br />
<br />
<div style="text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgTa-c-LWwOyuXOwHuk0-W7tPVkvzdP7aFBW8fDaLm2gBd6_rZ2rM7qoCR0bGM4bYjvdrHgTH9a0XJ3paJPQhvhObyzoW5s0fD0R1MLvixWtSohVXdXmNBcrgEOkxm5426CBv2kEXDTmWg/s1600/Henning+fabelita+1.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgTa-c-LWwOyuXOwHuk0-W7tPVkvzdP7aFBW8fDaLm2gBd6_rZ2rM7qoCR0bGM4bYjvdrHgTH9a0XJ3paJPQhvhObyzoW5s0fD0R1MLvixWtSohVXdXmNBcrgEOkxm5426CBv2kEXDTmWg/s1600/Henning+fabelita+1.jpg" height="640" width="426" /></a></div>
<div style="text-align: center;">
<i>"Resting, a challenge all in its own"</i></div>
<br />
So I got back to work, trying to link sections and familiarise myself once again with the route before once more starting from the ground.<br />
Then, after about 1,5 months of super slow progress, I finally made a break through and got through the traverse.<br />
<br />
<div style="text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEixmyfiUepDOPa4sU7g6ragn5qbztz2y0yKxcql8iNrwjn4OWWVHuhvQxQwtjmq-1GLETrGy7LSNyqPL4IAwSeGNTdON8qj0KYDan3QykE9g0YZBVhkX-qNJgvnc42IAQN50d3txjXfU5Q/s1600/Screen+Shot+2014-02-10+at+12.04.57+PM.png" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEixmyfiUepDOPa4sU7g6ragn5qbztz2y0yKxcql8iNrwjn4OWWVHuhvQxQwtjmq-1GLETrGy7LSNyqPL4IAwSeGNTdON8qj0KYDan3QykE9g0YZBVhkX-qNJgvnc42IAQN50d3txjXfU5Q/s1600/Screen+Shot+2014-02-10+at+12.04.57+PM.png" height="400" width="640" /></a></div>
<div style="text-align: center;">
<i>"Finally sticking the final move of the traverse from the ground"</i></div>
<br />
I was more pumped then I expected to be, but having broken through the mental barrier stopping me for so long, it was like a great weight was lifted from my shoulders, I knew I could get there again, it was finally going to happen.<br />
I recovered better then expected in the jug after the traverse and managed to get up to the pinches under the final hard move before missing a fairly easy adjustment move and succumbing to the pump.<br />
The next try, on new years eve, I got through again, this time much less tired.<br />
I got to the same point as before, but trying out a new faster but slightly harder sequence, I missed a hold and came off.<br />
<br />
<div style="text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjnWWLuJnchEN-aBuO-D4xNBG8nKwC-opZdxDo7tGZLb9wz1Kpiizbse-vHWJGqqXu-vjhyMfmvlKyi1kg2R0_Oz5QDIo9doRRdaZmsG70LPyAYh7-pCb5NZJMQkl5DBuBQIc6LL-6g0Uc/s1600/Screen+Shot+2014-02-10+at+12.11.04+PM.png" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjnWWLuJnchEN-aBuO-D4xNBG8nKwC-opZdxDo7tGZLb9wz1Kpiizbse-vHWJGqqXu-vjhyMfmvlKyi1kg2R0_Oz5QDIo9doRRdaZmsG70LPyAYh7-pCb5NZJMQkl5DBuBQIc6LL-6g0Uc/s1600/Screen+Shot+2014-02-10+at+12.11.04+PM.png" height="400" width="640" /></a></div>
<div style="text-align: center;">
<i>"Missing the final pinch on my new years eve attempt" </i></div>
<br />
<div style="text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhyCeNVTYqLwjg_6puZucmtixqQA5fp4xO-8UL03LuGqgXJFETN0GJPxzTmCKMW-l6-Scnm3afX2L2_vqit8nQc-6Wb8c2U6s3JnTbnV2zLR_GJJRLkO_F6CiXmW3xMiUpDPl6pFiH8VW8/s1600/Henning+fabelita+12.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhyCeNVTYqLwjg_6puZucmtixqQA5fp4xO-8UL03LuGqgXJFETN0GJPxzTmCKMW-l6-Scnm3afX2L2_vqit8nQc-6Wb8c2U6s3JnTbnV2zLR_GJJRLkO_F6CiXmW3xMiUpDPl6pFiH8VW8/s1600/Henning+fabelita+12.jpg" height="426" width="640" /></a></div>
<div style="text-align: center;">
<i>"Same move, better photo angle"</i></div>
<br />
On my next two attempts I also got through the traverse, one day in really bad humid conditions were I slipped off not long after the traverse, and the next time feeling super strong, but overshooting a delicate dead-point move to a slot.<br />
<br />
<div style="text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhMXCRYarEoRl4Srm55hJO_vQsdk8_DsfVAoHpNYlcFr5Cw2jwvg4_2qk4nI-esnRXO8vC_L3RLJRxSU4jMSTZZnu8c6_kjzboa8cCKVO___OOOySohAA4rVMjZ3NrGWbiKGHr16bI_gm8/s1600/Henning+fabelita+9.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhMXCRYarEoRl4Srm55hJO_vQsdk8_DsfVAoHpNYlcFr5Cw2jwvg4_2qk4nI-esnRXO8vC_L3RLJRxSU4jMSTZZnu8c6_kjzboa8cCKVO___OOOySohAA4rVMjZ3NrGWbiKGHr16bI_gm8/s1600/Henning+fabelita+9.jpg" height="640" width="426" /></a></div>
<div style="text-align: center;">
<i>"The dead-point move to the slot"</i></div>
<div style="text-align: center;">
<br /></div>
Then everything started going backwards, I rested several days but still felt tired, I got up to the traverse and immediately got pumped, about the way I had felt a month before. I tried to rest more, but the same kept happening.<br />
I had hit a peak and failed to do it, and now I was going back down, needing to climb on easier ground and give my body a few weeks to recover.<br />
This is one of the hardest parts I guess, letting go when you are so close, being patient and resting.<br />
Especially since none of the others (Sindre, Hannah, Magnus) seemed to have the same problem.<br />
But I guess we are all different and we all need to figure out what works for us, if you can´t force it, all you can do is accept it.<br />
<br />
A few weeks later I was once again feeling rested and got back on the route, but like the first time through the traverse, I was feeling way to pumped to conceive of getting past my previous high-point and sticking the dyno.<br />
I still put up a proper fight and managed to slap for the jug but was to tired to hold on, somehow getting a new high-point by 1,5 move, possibly just half a move from sending the whole route.<br />
<br />
<div style="text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhaAxAN83na5MuNUboEl9uBI6EGaD-j3owvL1AlR4oQO_N4vhuiGDsn2266D2BuRuLC3YLYc714xAVvuKtKYWOJZvtw-yJiKzLjG99X0TWx61N980OFVh35MECdXNLtYlHJ29jQWqFcJRs/s1600/Henning+fabelita+13.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhaAxAN83na5MuNUboEl9uBI6EGaD-j3owvL1AlR4oQO_N4vhuiGDsn2266D2BuRuLC3YLYc714xAVvuKtKYWOJZvtw-yJiKzLjG99X0TWx61N980OFVh35MECdXNLtYlHJ29jQWqFcJRs/s1600/Henning+fabelita+13.jpg" height="426" width="640" /></a></div>
<div style="text-align: center;">
<i>"My red-point endurance crux, holding two open pinches and making a final throw to a jug"</i></div>
<div style="text-align: center;">
<br /></div>
<div style="text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgjqcV-pOzDTWLEenKydvXGNsZEczycqeCf6Stj5vN7uFSfTN10Ej9W07Le3pBaov7LhKrkd8FB4pl8jznvLE560WMtpCnKM5drjf4dGI4rUAmYjU3OVsd6xfTXGSymOtjxh6zo0jXCyc4/s1600/Henning+fabelita+14.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgjqcV-pOzDTWLEenKydvXGNsZEczycqeCf6Stj5vN7uFSfTN10Ej9W07Le3pBaov7LhKrkd8FB4pl8jznvLE560WMtpCnKM5drjf4dGI4rUAmYjU3OVsd6xfTXGSymOtjxh6zo0jXCyc4/s1600/Henning+fabelita+14.jpg" height="426" width="640" /></a></div>
<div style="text-align: center;">
<i>"Slapping the jug"</i></div>
<br />
Then bad weather set in and we got a few days forced break from the cave, and thought I would have liked to get back on it and tried to finish it, this was an opportunity to regain some lost endurance and renew my motivation and psyche to get back on the route.<br />
<br />
Getting away, even just for a few days, was definitely enough to get me super psyched to get back. But wanting it is not always enough.<br />
I´v never been able to do anything hard in january before, and this year proved no different. I kept trying, but the traverse was back to being really hard and even on the few days I was feeling strong, I somehow slipped with the foot or missed on the crux stab move and fell off.<br />
There were a few days when I got through, but I always felt tired and fell of the final dyno so pumped I seriously started doubting if I would be able to do the remaining 5 meters of 7b climbing.<br />
<br />
<div style="text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi1Bxy8kjPl6MYtdGt92zC5hYQ53cF5pSceDYUqpJqYbWlKToq4GXBvSkrp9exKJXqlCbK3Bkz2onQRcqo513Bof7eRsoxWmJ3sr10Pk35sDBesoHgI1RhC5xdqgqIJSDQQrKWl0u7487o/s1600/Henning+fabelita+15.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi1Bxy8kjPl6MYtdGt92zC5hYQ53cF5pSceDYUqpJqYbWlKToq4GXBvSkrp9exKJXqlCbK3Bkz2onQRcqo513Bof7eRsoxWmJ3sr10Pk35sDBesoHgI1RhC5xdqgqIJSDQQrKWl0u7487o/s1600/Henning+fabelita+15.jpg" height="426" width="640" /></a></div>
<div style="text-align: center;">
<i>"The dreaded cross move just after the dyno"</i></div>
<br />
So from almost doing it in the end of december, january passed me by with no reward for my efforts. Then february came, a month I´v always felt better, but before I could get back on, a Norwegian Tv-crew came down to do a show with Magnus. Attached to the project as a cameraman this meant another few forced rest-days from the project.<br />
Feeling tired from the tv thing I then decided to mix it up and start trying in the morning as well as in the evening just to see if I was in good enough shape to get two decent tries in a day.<br />
That failed and feeling tired in the traverse I fell off there on both tries.<br />
<br />
Then the next day, considering a rest day when I woke up, I suddenly felt much better after the initial warm up and got in a good try, falling relatively fresh on the upper dyno.<br />
After a rest day the same happened.<br />
Day 1, first try getting passed the traverse but falling tired on the dyno, then still feeling tired in the evening, getting on a 40 meter 8b and falling after the last bolt.<br />
Day 2, feeling tired and initially planing to rest and just hang out in the cave and film Magnus and Adam, I did my warm up route anyway just to see, felt very good on it, got that nervous this could be the time feeling and went for it.<i> </i><br />
<br />
I got through the traverse for the 10 time and felt great, then got more pumped in the rest jug then before, fought my way to the undercling where I for some reason felt a bit better, but on the dyno I was tired again.<br />
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<div style="text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhkGoWidK2FPeE00FJp2BUkZG9U9xh3RodKymj0uOCUGmF6yLcIMdIW4b1OusY4PQMRcgSv52dpAW2MAu2hXqQC_62wE4QdXh6Dmpo9N9sZlmK_iVTwAROAw8wkr-aLru8L5ZWv10GUfKY/s1600/Henning+fabelita+10.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhkGoWidK2FPeE00FJp2BUkZG9U9xh3RodKymj0uOCUGmF6yLcIMdIW4b1OusY4PQMRcgSv52dpAW2MAu2hXqQC_62wE4QdXh6Dmpo9N9sZlmK_iVTwAROAw8wkr-aLru8L5ZWv10GUfKY/s1600/Henning+fabelita+10.jpg" height="640" width="426" /></a><br />
<i>"The powerful middle section between the traverse and the dyno"</i><br />
<br /></div>
<div style="text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEicOA8anewe16rF6rj6SWQPL0Y9OHOy-Htg1EKPVR48Y4hrt9P77ZbaZ5CXwBrl66Nn3w1j_yNUVXD69_Nax3eH1giGever0GIK3imptEH9UJJsOVYsDLdTDpG__8SDC6aKbt7rbeoMXRc/s1600/Screen+Shot+2014-02-10+at+12.07.53+PM.png" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEicOA8anewe16rF6rj6SWQPL0Y9OHOy-Htg1EKPVR48Y4hrt9P77ZbaZ5CXwBrl66Nn3w1j_yNUVXD69_Nax3eH1giGever0GIK3imptEH9UJJsOVYsDLdTDpG__8SDC6aKbt7rbeoMXRc/s1600/Screen+Shot+2014-02-10+at+12.07.53+PM.png" height="400" width="640" /></a></div>
<div style="text-align: center;">
<i>"Fighting to get to the undercling"</i></div>
<div style="text-align: center;">
<br /></div>
In the end I guess I was maybe just a little more determined then before and thus hit the next hold a bit better and managed to hold on.<br />
I then managed to recover enough to do the next tricky moves easily and climb to the top feeling less tired then I usually did when working the link.<br />
<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgDDG-fBlWzUFzUEecdaxFJXH5VbjhZtg6uFTAahbjFk4I9CnBMbJfC8_xvqfwTfcLkjOmqzHktq1ssSJKF5D_vHgImn71o4cfVISj6xRQCuzg2PUETKCr-gkS_WHAnZ4_5F7-BwtAXz-E/s1600/Screen+Shot+2014-02-10+at+12.16.13+PM.png" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgDDG-fBlWzUFzUEecdaxFJXH5VbjhZtg6uFTAahbjFk4I9CnBMbJfC8_xvqfwTfcLkjOmqzHktq1ssSJKF5D_vHgImn71o4cfVISj6xRQCuzg2PUETKCr-gkS_WHAnZ4_5F7-BwtAXz-E/s1600/Screen+Shot+2014-02-10+at+12.16.13+PM.png" height="400" width="640" /></a></div>
<div style="text-align: center;">
<i>"The final "rest", three moves from the anchor" </i></div>
<br />
<div style="text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjnL5AjG-oEwpTZlwvU48IMYybgU4gO7C_qaVJanKqBXa7w0xsGeCsRkXAc-DkpcrXed0XtPh6rwaLeW09oAg9oMcKBZrVWsk_HB2WrTiWqXmQtcaqKGdkH1j0sjovfbMXHgzz7m1J2ZV8/s1600/Screen+Shot+2014-02-10+at+12.17.07+PM.png" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjnL5AjG-oEwpTZlwvU48IMYybgU4gO7C_qaVJanKqBXa7w0xsGeCsRkXAc-DkpcrXed0XtPh6rwaLeW09oAg9oMcKBZrVWsk_HB2WrTiWqXmQtcaqKGdkH1j0sjovfbMXHgzz7m1J2ZV8/s1600/Screen+Shot+2014-02-10+at+12.17.07+PM.png" height="400" width="640" /></a></div>
<div style="text-align: center;">
<i>"Clipping the anchor"</i></div>
<br />
Clipping that anchor after spending 5 months dedicating myself 100% to this route was definitely my best feeling in climbing so far, a feeling of happiness and satisfaction that would be difficult to describe in words.<br />
This fleeting feeling of complete happiness was of course to good to last, but thanks to a golden<br />
champagne bottle given to me by my friends and team mates Ole Karsten and Olav (that I had stored under the start of the route) I was at least able to keep it for the rest of the night :D<br />
<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjnjU8zxsALh65LeVoiXcFpftFbj6iZwlz-4SBVIEGNQbaXA51f0_URA-uRuHnpXDcl7LadHdHvhJWvR5D7EVtAj9jvywuqOrcfp8ciHP1FJItLjAkQLwuS47eBFOhta1m1CQJfArKu9a0/s1600/victory+kava.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjnjU8zxsALh65LeVoiXcFpftFbj6iZwlz-4SBVIEGNQbaXA51f0_URA-uRuHnpXDcl7LadHdHvhJWvR5D7EVtAj9jvywuqOrcfp8ciHP1FJItLjAkQLwuS47eBFOhta1m1CQJfArKu9a0/s1600/victory+kava.jpg" height="426" width="640" /></a></div>
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<i>"Finally having sent the route the champagne tasted oh so good"</i></div>
</div>
Wanghttp://www.blogger.com/profile/14840965362641239826noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5406441149653791722.post-47927372920901370492014-02-06T10:53:00.000-08:002014-02-06T10:53:25.133-08:00December travelling days <div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
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With my mind all focused on Fabelita, filming Magnus, editing and so on. I have as so many times before neglected my blogging efforts somewhat.</div>
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I would like to write about success on the project, the red-point process and so on, but as success still eludes me I´ll leave you with some shots from some travelling days in december. </div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEia2s8XpYsKP2waOQk-1V4prh6l4346lG44QpJr_8D00lwIc__ETfZTM6RcHUk-khrU3_iOt8r129B0EvlOYA9ok3z_eIW32V2s0QYkrWB8FR-nTpzqzr8KRJuOkLZewAIfzcZyboyVRnU/s1600/Desember+del+2+15.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEia2s8XpYsKP2waOQk-1V4prh6l4346lG44QpJr_8D00lwIc__ETfZTM6RcHUk-khrU3_iOt8r129B0EvlOYA9ok3z_eIW32V2s0QYkrWB8FR-nTpzqzr8KRJuOkLZewAIfzcZyboyVRnU/s1600/Desember+del+2+15.jpg" height="426" width="640" /></a></div>
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<i>"After about a month in the cold Roger finally got his hands on a hard piece off wood"</i></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjerdobjC9JUggIU8rm3RmW6o7GnEd7TArCYNKaxYd7kwiS5dqYlYMGcZH4ib7QbmX0GXXogeIpsCiLSWDo_nyeHX1BvmVa-R8-Pasbz3qGjyKjQfUWl3XXVnhyViu9HeQEPf0kVRf0Ik0/s1600/Desember+del+2+12.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjerdobjC9JUggIU8rm3RmW6o7GnEd7TArCYNKaxYd7kwiS5dqYlYMGcZH4ib7QbmX0GXXogeIpsCiLSWDo_nyeHX1BvmVa-R8-Pasbz3qGjyKjQfUWl3XXVnhyViu9HeQEPf0kVRf0Ik0/s1600/Desember+del+2+12.jpg" height="426" width="640" /></a></div>
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<i>"Wood chopping and beer drinking, a great pass time on cold winter nights"</i></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEifjadEY6A3qgG3p5VfRVUDrK764bDjTFo8eg3YmvPR7k3coJVB3vlmWt8CL-kf6wcRoE_j-zIlCEkCAxej4CEquNLotVL3YY0O9oZvi-9JzdOhetwIo5_CEDCqB0r4c6nU10q2ngmzgF0/s1600/Desember+del+2+13.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEifjadEY6A3qgG3p5VfRVUDrK764bDjTFo8eg3YmvPR7k3coJVB3vlmWt8CL-kf6wcRoE_j-zIlCEkCAxej4CEquNLotVL3YY0O9oZvi-9JzdOhetwIo5_CEDCqB0r4c6nU10q2ngmzgF0/s1600/Desember+del+2+13.jpg" height="426" width="640" /></a></div>
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<i>"Perles, home of the famously soft Escalatamasters (9a) and the amazing Sin Perdon (8b+)"</i></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgtdBU9WoH8F-Rj4_fGKnFZDQ0bMX_tmwTu5GV0HDywHFZ6bud5bgv4CZQohbmKQdHfSCMmUdAcv7q-01wkaE5gjUmurdsv3FcKtboWchLaLSmZKVcKyUmhrH4xkbYnazWaz7LJ1WHWRcQ/s1600/Desember+del+2+14.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgtdBU9WoH8F-Rj4_fGKnFZDQ0bMX_tmwTu5GV0HDywHFZ6bud5bgv4CZQohbmKQdHfSCMmUdAcv7q-01wkaE5gjUmurdsv3FcKtboWchLaLSmZKVcKyUmhrH4xkbYnazWaz7LJ1WHWRcQ/s1600/Desember+del+2+14.jpg" height="640" width="426" /></a></div>
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<i>"The blue skyscraper size dildo building in Barcelona"</i></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhXWWcjTrvpH0wxH2nPvxMAI1k4DQo7P2gAnM3m1kRZc_WthtWJIiHPhnnIVV2flnApD4CruNJJko4yJfOFNA_nTRcnklYaQ_J43BU2MVx9WXf0CBbTnSMIqSE-gPABbqgg3cJqMTHku94/s1600/Desember+del+2+11.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhXWWcjTrvpH0wxH2nPvxMAI1k4DQo7P2gAnM3m1kRZc_WthtWJIiHPhnnIVV2flnApD4CruNJJko4yJfOFNA_nTRcnklYaQ_J43BU2MVx9WXf0CBbTnSMIqSE-gPABbqgg3cJqMTHku94/s1600/Desember+del+2+11.jpg" height="426" width="640" /></a></div>
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<i>"Roger, on the road to Montgroney"</i></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg95inyhfaPpomGYdBwtE7l576r1nAmDQQGFA5fTtJ5uqNqFrFwAA7-3Z5-NN8SkW-Ub-A7FOgxklcfSMQCuWTp5JnQ1oDYeBJQe1DYcs3ylA8kPDnKN9Arngza18SzA28FFuiFv-tm3Lw/s1600/Desember+del+2+9.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg95inyhfaPpomGYdBwtE7l576r1nAmDQQGFA5fTtJ5uqNqFrFwAA7-3Z5-NN8SkW-Ub-A7FOgxklcfSMQCuWTp5JnQ1oDYeBJQe1DYcs3ylA8kPDnKN9Arngza18SzA28FFuiFv-tm3Lw/s1600/Desember+del+2+9.jpg" height="640" width="426" /></a></div>
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<i>"Roger immediately got on Venus (7a), named for it´s similarity to a certain female organ"</i></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgFV9Fo1Zj1BMeiWozXYEn0sAkV14wunAAgZCYUNkupmtRbM7NBpQQRtWNyyO_mVLQR7V5Bd3oSSKM8O7D10Mz8lP-Ob58wNPYO8XFi1AnXMBvojDnTnuxg4-PGN_9LCTFepH9FnfVpuMs/s1600/Desember+del+2+8.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgFV9Fo1Zj1BMeiWozXYEn0sAkV14wunAAgZCYUNkupmtRbM7NBpQQRtWNyyO_mVLQR7V5Bd3oSSKM8O7D10Mz8lP-Ob58wNPYO8XFi1AnXMBvojDnTnuxg4-PGN_9LCTFepH9FnfVpuMs/s1600/Desember+del+2+8.jpg" height="640" width="426" /></a></div>
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<i>"I make a second go accent of el Sur (7c+) after a very close onsight attempt in the sun"</i></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj_z9TTxH3EUcJ-J0kzpXRsEVUi_NuszYBDIEBR-6MKQ2KhJyGlpmLKJimOU-4wxKTpZNY5kX7_Dg1KmVMSz7Crou-X2teqF6mXrqDkDEK4V_Bjvh1Ux-4CPcpQFNJ5_rggHWR-q81v3cU/s1600/Desember+del+2+10.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj_z9TTxH3EUcJ-J0kzpXRsEVUi_NuszYBDIEBR-6MKQ2KhJyGlpmLKJimOU-4wxKTpZNY5kX7_Dg1KmVMSz7Crou-X2teqF6mXrqDkDEK4V_Bjvh1Ux-4CPcpQFNJ5_rggHWR-q81v3cU/s1600/Desember+del+2+10.jpg" height="426" width="640" /></a></div>
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<i>"Dinner time, classic stray spanish dog included" </i></div>
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I had never been and was psyched to climb in Montgroney. It was therefor a big disappointment after 3 hours of driving when it turned out to be a lost cause. The walls were in the sun from sunrise to sunset and it was boiling hot all day. </div>
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As a result I could not try any of the long inviting lines but had to settle for the shorter more crappy looking bouldery lines. </div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhICr05yft61Moqo3zMF62LX-9zP_FdIirFbiYB0i7tjvw3VMikqIyRvciG1j5R4ru_gNbKoSN6bxyvTBqLpF51cswQP-hwi16AMVMHa1EzWhhvPH4xSeRHln3k_f6VQcZ1JnEEmfgVYpc/s1600/Desember+del+2+7.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhICr05yft61Moqo3zMF62LX-9zP_FdIirFbiYB0i7tjvw3VMikqIyRvciG1j5R4ru_gNbKoSN6bxyvTBqLpF51cswQP-hwi16AMVMHa1EzWhhvPH4xSeRHln3k_f6VQcZ1JnEEmfgVYpc/s1600/Desember+del+2+7.jpg" height="640" width="426" /></a></div>
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<i>"Here on some 8a in the dark with Roger´s powerful </i><span style="text-align: left;"><i>headlight illuminating my way"</i></span></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiBhjddhVNqV9n0zHbVS86LnnSLEfGJJ9wfTURzNSxnSxvf23L-IG66jusC2m_ind6vbwiSWvcsmW1wGiWMI88oQH_axEYBWYbC4vWsX0i4-mu-LMESCcbwsfOovHhyphenhyphenT9oj-fDyac0O6Lc/s1600/Desember+del+2+5.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiBhjddhVNqV9n0zHbVS86LnnSLEfGJJ9wfTURzNSxnSxvf23L-IG66jusC2m_ind6vbwiSWvcsmW1wGiWMI88oQH_axEYBWYbC4vWsX0i4-mu-LMESCcbwsfOovHhyphenhyphenT9oj-fDyac0O6Lc/s1600/Desember+del+2+5.jpg" height="640" width="426" /></a></div>
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<i>"Attempting to climb in the sun..."</i> </div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEipirpRR1ZLs6S9z9xVpN6WU3Vbco95Xc-MrED4Ztbq5X1SwXqo9jIAhYDPmDHfZb2fLTgI00VzVKF4zdcswyUVsDt17NqzUnAuZZKt8aLqPQq8OMPQ2V2qdSbbXik3UugNmkYyfsA9NO4/s1600/Desember+del+2+4.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEipirpRR1ZLs6S9z9xVpN6WU3Vbco95Xc-MrED4Ztbq5X1SwXqo9jIAhYDPmDHfZb2fLTgI00VzVKF4zdcswyUVsDt17NqzUnAuZZKt8aLqPQq8OMPQ2V2qdSbbXik3UugNmkYyfsA9NO4/s1600/Desember+del+2+4.jpg" height="640" width="426" /></a></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhZFoc6HBrED0mgzlDEpt13kqqQ6cIIbmX4dl8u4BVT4dgfoVD39u5GQTxvOByDVngI8hbfh46u-eV0W3Se8uZpafQTZtfzutxKWVcPm_zLJ1MkdxsncCQcJW5lcsrwJcTkm6GDXKvsDLc/s1600/Desember+del+2+3.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhZFoc6HBrED0mgzlDEpt13kqqQ6cIIbmX4dl8u4BVT4dgfoVD39u5GQTxvOByDVngI8hbfh46u-eV0W3Se8uZpafQTZtfzutxKWVcPm_zLJ1MkdxsncCQcJW5lcsrwJcTkm6GDXKvsDLc/s1600/Desember+del+2+3.jpg" height="640" width="426" /></a></div>
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<i>"but slipping off over and over again..."</i></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEigE_R3utrTN6igQRO_nrcOmla5N-wsldZ4ZnM7B9sjH-R_LTcs9sVhVAx7_sTDCNknj7P3a9v2yj2N67S29mjtkkha6Ptc1JbuwuP0_27pnfUBzcnbGihDPgzlkh96MlArbJimNw7CgXI/s1600/Desember+del+2+6.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEigE_R3utrTN6igQRO_nrcOmla5N-wsldZ4ZnM7B9sjH-R_LTcs9sVhVAx7_sTDCNknj7P3a9v2yj2N67S29mjtkkha6Ptc1JbuwuP0_27pnfUBzcnbGihDPgzlkh96MlArbJimNw7CgXI/s1600/Desember+del+2+6.jpg" height="640" width="426" /></a></div>
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<i>"and as if falling off wasn´t bad enough..."</i> </div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiSQXDqVMq5QCmbq-IrzJBdiyatPYZqsQHDNwovnd79Mal3xLo_u6Lv9EUFX-g9e1e2ZEPR7p0hrW1CADv1OLDfkF1ll7BCGQqBedGT3jqpIU0FZEF6eErpTohyphenhyphen1NiZ_Jm0fmRAdoO_IIQ/s1600/Desember+del+2+2.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiSQXDqVMq5QCmbq-IrzJBdiyatPYZqsQHDNwovnd79Mal3xLo_u6Lv9EUFX-g9e1e2ZEPR7p0hrW1CADv1OLDfkF1ll7BCGQqBedGT3jqpIU0FZEF6eErpTohyphenhyphen1NiZ_Jm0fmRAdoO_IIQ/s1600/Desember+del+2+2.jpg" height="640" width="426" /></a></div>
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<i>"Roger, wasting yet another great opportunity to get a tan, the main sector in the background"</i></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEizJR_z2AULCKWi57QC-0WhaYEvKl4e9xq7SYFbEfL-2v1XHS4b-WEGRLiWr9Uy6WIN0yLriL9p0hCGbS18UcbSlsM2CL9fSaMdKQfUp0w1NGJEzM8zmDwDRFZ3KmHjZdEVw8mAmH-ywMY/s1600/Desember+del+2+1.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEizJR_z2AULCKWi57QC-0WhaYEvKl4e9xq7SYFbEfL-2v1XHS4b-WEGRLiWr9Uy6WIN0yLriL9p0hCGbS18UcbSlsM2CL9fSaMdKQfUp0w1NGJEzM8zmDwDRFZ3KmHjZdEVw8mAmH-ywMY/s1600/Desember+del+2+1.jpg" height="426" width="640" /></a></div>
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<i>"Religion not being my thing I found a more rewarding way to enjoy this nice old church" </i></div>
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Then there was X-mas, good company and more climbing in the cave, people came and people went and before I knew it it was a brand new year. </div>
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But that however will have to wait for the next post. </div>
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Wanghttp://www.blogger.com/profile/14840965362641239826noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5406441149653791722.post-1766376873656356482013-12-29T02:31:00.000-08:002013-12-29T02:33:14.534-08:00Home, sweet home<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
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Leaving behind most of our skin on the boulders, our wayward journey continued south.</div>
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Feeling strong and confident after the surprising success in Font, I felt it was time to get my feet back on the ground and get properly shut on some old-school sport classics.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhfgSe4aFo_Yeuhj7DZxFPRrVCWP5c6U28JSSphIzoIu1UwGEvp2KdGKhgNI9guyFWvQ1Dr-8HXOWx_gI6-jMI27L5_qIvtnMt0ufrKIprFIs7gKVL5B-pNTxZxX34JWrqkDhJo6Ghwy0U/s1600/Buoux+skilt.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhfgSe4aFo_Yeuhj7DZxFPRrVCWP5c6U28JSSphIzoIu1UwGEvp2KdGKhgNI9guyFWvQ1Dr-8HXOWx_gI6-jMI27L5_qIvtnMt0ufrKIprFIs7gKVL5B-pNTxZxX34JWrqkDhJo6Ghwy0U/s1600/Buoux+skilt.jpg" width="426" /></a></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjwINzZMAJAFJsB1Fv72F-2i2zusAMKX_6_DCrMnrYVeKyY6nlbvXORk4H0IDmV6SGZ7gpcet2tx94Tcf32Vexy2pQeRaLji9iitjBRHtrd0mRjDsVn6CZ2q6WoMpkYAs0FJt0o_Zrg848/s1600/Buoux+oversikt.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="426" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjwINzZMAJAFJsB1Fv72F-2i2zusAMKX_6_DCrMnrYVeKyY6nlbvXORk4H0IDmV6SGZ7gpcet2tx94Tcf32Vexy2pQeRaLji9iitjBRHtrd0mRjDsVn6CZ2q6WoMpkYAs0FJt0o_Zrg848/s1600/Buoux+oversikt.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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<i>"The legendary 90s testing grounds of Buoux"</i></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhEJrtMoK0qp3DySJE-7XDqBl7YGPJVeFGt9yysarZR34y4nq2yoh3F5RqO_VZf_6HlmFQu1BX_7d_LOGyu4Q4DFleb-Jk01YcowAXTwsK76RqeX7RTSJN-GEvPP7CpBf_5NUp5hTUJ2Ks/s1600/La+rose+og+meg.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="426" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhEJrtMoK0qp3DySJE-7XDqBl7YGPJVeFGt9yysarZR34y4nq2yoh3F5RqO_VZf_6HlmFQu1BX_7d_LOGyu4Q4DFleb-Jk01YcowAXTwsK76RqeX7RTSJN-GEvPP7CpBf_5NUp5hTUJ2Ks/s1600/La+rose+og+meg.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEggA7s2pSAGmfufgIFwzZbCZxuDUT8r3Gz-HNvPw3XfA808s0s8HrifFx2dU7-qowl_yukFzsmRKkxAVOA82oEhY6qNZRdjGWCuOeTXbv2PCT0n3Jqn6zUGQ9KCtE-KDI7kmmdCx3pieMM/s1600/La+rose.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEggA7s2pSAGmfufgIFwzZbCZxuDUT8r3Gz-HNvPw3XfA808s0s8HrifFx2dU7-qowl_yukFzsmRKkxAVOA82oEhY6qNZRdjGWCuOeTXbv2PCT0n3Jqn6zUGQ9KCtE-KDI7kmmdCx3pieMM/s1600/La+rose.jpg" width="426" /></a></div>
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<i>"La Rose, possibly the worlds first 8b"</i></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgMQNW2ghF6oZXHQ0CpEg-lxY6JOHgHBsYuoZ6MrMVRBV9vMRFy1sF3QySjlcA62YB6W0WWd6rQlAPmU4HBBg2UmqRwGgpsPvBfJoQ9wXlADkle4PzI_caVnJQhmMHPGWfgETBzUe_hmlQ/s1600/Roger+rapell.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgMQNW2ghF6oZXHQ0CpEg-lxY6JOHgHBsYuoZ6MrMVRBV9vMRFy1sF3QySjlcA62YB6W0WWd6rQlAPmU4HBBg2UmqRwGgpsPvBfJoQ9wXlADkle4PzI_caVnJQhmMHPGWfgETBzUe_hmlQ/s1600/Roger+rapell.jpg" width="426" /></a></div>
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<i>"Roger absailing down from the base of Rêve de Papillion, France´s first 8a"</i> </div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjYoaGEJbYavHkOcZOtWx9HMhrWTWBcvzP2EsSL6Au-MLWI5TZh-dgWguWYmfuoTSJ8HQYtAinWHUZP4Gu41sGiq0N6gEm1tvG7V0HEcZuI_MU2hBHK1nI_4Gyuti9mTDQxv-K_u4-keKY/s1600/hotel+++roger.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="426" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjYoaGEJbYavHkOcZOtWx9HMhrWTWBcvzP2EsSL6Au-MLWI5TZh-dgWguWYmfuoTSJ8HQYtAinWHUZP4Gu41sGiq0N6gEm1tvG7V0HEcZuI_MU2hBHK1nI_4Gyuti9mTDQxv-K_u4-keKY/s1600/hotel+++roger.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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<i>"With a perfectly decent tent in the car I still joined in with Roger and checked into a Hotel!</i><br />
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Buoux was like expected a total bust, and we got completely shut down. After a long driving "rest day" down from Font I got straight on La Rose in the mid day sun, and with barely any skin left, got nowhere on the crux and struggled with the rest.</div>
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Setting my goals a bit lower, I settled for the (supposedly) easier classic, Rêve de Papillon, france´s first 8a.</div>
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Having wasted what little skin I had on La Rose, it felt painfully sharp and impossibly hard. In the end I didn´t get in a single decent attempt and barely managed to climb the crux sequence bolt to bolt..</div>
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Roger faired no better and also got shut down on every route he tried.</div>
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Having sampled some of the Buoux classics, we soon realised it was a no go this short trip, so</div>
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the next day we went to the awesome wall of Seynes. </div>
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I had been there for 10 days a long time ago and looked up at one of the other super classic´s of southern France, Dinosaure (8a+), but not been strong enough to try it.</div>
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But the route never really left my mind, and seeing as we were in the area, I was psyched to finally get on it.</div>
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From where we were staying close to Buoux it was a 100 km drive, and knowing the wall was south facing and got sun early, we got up and started driving in the dark at 5.45.</div>
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This how ever, was to no avail, at the crag at 7.45 it was already 20+ degrees in the sun, and as I made my way up the route it only got worse. </div>
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Slipping and sliding I managed to climb bolt to bolt, but linking was out of the question.. So having made my way to the top, I ended up cleaning the route without a single redpoint attempt. </div>
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Roger, boiling hot from just standing on the ground, decided it was no point in even trying, so at about 10 in the morning, we left and went shopping instead.. </div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiFOxT40joYZ9twIvnhIo7nFFa5MNYqIF4YJZvGMJ27vc8Ncn_NAUjjI9Ev_-OTQgClVTBk_8IvJM1SzTQFfgHHCjXXsevOuutsIF8nEqtbjKBBKvrqP554DV_47Igoi4zfqlCoDz-l8r4/s1600/La+dinosaure+fra+sia.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiFOxT40joYZ9twIvnhIo7nFFa5MNYqIF4YJZvGMJ27vc8Ncn_NAUjjI9Ev_-OTQgClVTBk_8IvJM1SzTQFfgHHCjXXsevOuutsIF8nEqtbjKBBKvrqP554DV_47Igoi4zfqlCoDz-l8r4/s1600/La+dinosaure+fra+sia.jpg" width="426" /></a></div>
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<i>"Dinosaure at Seynes"</i></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiPe9sF-5iX-GK4u1L6vZJfM4ghZh6Bthmr-9rboMxN15mg2XHRN7McCU8GzECedqFoROcmXyq85Q266QqiSZMM26AgV3mSJxiCJOd2uYIkIIKrYrbywRWNs6j8n52fpRFBYLBwGn4ILOA/s1600/La+dinosaure+rett+under.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiPe9sF-5iX-GK4u1L6vZJfM4ghZh6Bthmr-9rboMxN15mg2XHRN7McCU8GzECedqFoROcmXyq85Q266QqiSZMM26AgV3mSJxiCJOd2uYIkIIKrYrbywRWNs6j8n52fpRFBYLBwGn4ILOA/s1600/La+dinosaure+rett+under.jpg" width="426" /></a></div>
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<i>"The perfect tufa line of Dinosaure"</i><br />
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Tired, and with our feet firmly planted back on the ground, we left the boiling heat of southern france and got back on the road towards our final destination, Santa Linya in northern spain, to meet up with Jarle and Sindre who would be arriving at "Casa Wang" later the same day.</div>
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We got to the house at the same time as Sindre and Jarle returned from a quick session in the cave, and after weeks on the road, it felt like finally coming home. </div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj9AWS9JASBCPUNejX4g9DS0sq55SUOIZy3-vdw1eYDF3sck4QdwTAkeFZTZnSnrATiUmPQQ2NsD4itor-7Z7hfy0d5z0oIvLogbmDwrA-i3VVgP1mU1-bBNcleTEp1rnmLzL67GSbV3P0/s1600/T%C3%B8rr+hule.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="426" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj9AWS9JASBCPUNejX4g9DS0sq55SUOIZy3-vdw1eYDF3sck4QdwTAkeFZTZnSnrATiUmPQQ2NsD4itor-7Z7hfy0d5z0oIvLogbmDwrA-i3VVgP1mU1-bBNcleTEp1rnmLzL67GSbV3P0/s1600/T%C3%B8rr+hule.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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<i>"The cave, all dry and shit" </i><br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhVw7pLRNJkoQ7aPMLGDnUtU2xC896WhpEymBDe7-liOWW1591d0rFdYSJfFwUij9hWwyLolFC6JeKzjzoWW5-Tgcm91Xz60aUdvYHqnnmix9jbc41Sm3MQIRuLEi7c6VRqO04JQNQzmZE/s1600/Sindre+oil+rig+fashion.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="426" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhVw7pLRNJkoQ7aPMLGDnUtU2xC896WhpEymBDe7-liOWW1591d0rFdYSJfFwUij9hWwyLolFC6JeKzjzoWW5-Tgcm91Xz60aUdvYHqnnmix9jbc41Sm3MQIRuLEi7c6VRqO04JQNQzmZE/s1600/Sindre+oil+rig+fashion.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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<i>"Sindre, sporting the latest in oil platform fashion" </i></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhdbdrk-V2fLQPqf83dp_MzX77NafGcSUdyONcpbb1GJz8NB5fYc19juUXXswFKIaGhjShV2b56u4boJo_3Rt0_JViTruhNGoMFEcatC3GvcM8iAtYSCKRX6wP2DyX2yjE4yDyAOlfkLmc/s1600/Inbal.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhdbdrk-V2fLQPqf83dp_MzX77NafGcSUdyONcpbb1GJz8NB5fYc19juUXXswFKIaGhjShV2b56u4boJo_3Rt0_JViTruhNGoMFEcatC3GvcM8iAtYSCKRX6wP2DyX2yjE4yDyAOlfkLmc/s1600/Inbal.jpg" width="426" /></a></div>
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<i>"One of our more short term house guests, Inbal, happy to have clipped her first anchor in the cave"</i><br />
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Life back in Santa Linya was very much the same as before. </div>
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We immediately got back on the projects in the cave (day 1), tried to go somewhere else on day 2, and went running on the rest day (day 3), and then repeated the process.</div>
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As always this soon turned into 2 days in the cave and then rest, since Jarle was psyched on Fabelita (8c) and had little time. </div>
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Jarle, just having made the second accent of Leoline Exstension (8c+) in Norway, (after Adam Ondra´s first accent last year,) was in great shape, although lacking a bit of the endurance needed to hold on to the the "jugs" in the much steeper terrain of the cave.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjJlET40LiXU7QJSxmrxU7OKpo2qhWJ3r7g3r7CRTBGm3meQu_04Ft8f4dhOP44NdMwtFw6dIzGdgwpgHTNDErmDQ9FY13vrJPvVfRRHiIB2h9zNn_cdjfQD4xT3aXu8E7hUtxDYH4atno/s1600/Ondre+leoline.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em; text-align: center;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjJlET40LiXU7QJSxmrxU7OKpo2qhWJ3r7g3r7CRTBGm3meQu_04Ft8f4dhOP44NdMwtFw6dIzGdgwpgHTNDErmDQ9FY13vrJPvVfRRHiIB2h9zNn_cdjfQD4xT3aXu8E7hUtxDYH4atno/s640/Ondre+leoline.jpg" width="426" /></a></div>
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<i>"Adam Ondra making the first accent of Leoline Extension last year" </i></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgYLPbWkJGh8MhHBgBB3vsK9XXIly2aO4g4_cs4UpG-9w6OMova_tAAY2kXIkG8NX35wxXqhFYre6Y_q9uUdkwWNzLVlQU5I4ysL-fM7-ohgjxFpvRy91_I5U5PbS79fgms7ghyphenhyphenbpcjvXM/s1600/Jarle+leoline+2.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgYLPbWkJGh8MhHBgBB3vsK9XXIly2aO4g4_cs4UpG-9w6OMova_tAAY2kXIkG8NX35wxXqhFYre6Y_q9uUdkwWNzLVlQU5I4ysL-fM7-ohgjxFpvRy91_I5U5PbS79fgms7ghyphenhyphenbpcjvXM/s640/Jarle+leoline+2.jpg" width="426" /></a></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj0HbyBLN2yz3OtSybjRBj8kDXVaiBWe_xWn03xCPptIlW2Cuvpq3EFjeoMduvXB7PiszgYAwwGkk0N_NPenxZkkdaD07GubGxL4DbDqYwgqO-YcylhxlBV3OnCkU3IqmEz0xHUFzL8Xlo/s1600/Jarle+leoline+3.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="426" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj0HbyBLN2yz3OtSybjRBj8kDXVaiBWe_xWn03xCPptIlW2Cuvpq3EFjeoMduvXB7PiszgYAwwGkk0N_NPenxZkkdaD07GubGxL4DbDqYwgqO-YcylhxlBV3OnCkU3IqmEz0xHUFzL8Xlo/s640/Jarle+leoline+3.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
<i>"Jarle making the first repeat this fall"</i><br />
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Somehow managing to adapt to the style and putting up a great fight, Jarle, on his last try on his last day, pulled it out of the bag and sent Fabelita. </div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj_SbW1o71qxB85v6rLWhI994npryHF3eCInSgDSH93R0rgjKZc3ZOzRZexUTkhKYZDfhgV6zMluFoFrOQ9F2JTiuM8zinuFpHfO3ZcL4kFo34mAmpzklhV4khtOlc2VqT30pajRT6Hf0E/s1600/Jarle+Fabelita+1.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj_SbW1o71qxB85v6rLWhI994npryHF3eCInSgDSH93R0rgjKZc3ZOzRZexUTkhKYZDfhgV6zMluFoFrOQ9F2JTiuM8zinuFpHfO3ZcL4kFo34mAmpzklhV4khtOlc2VqT30pajRT6Hf0E/s1600/Jarle+Fabelita+1.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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<i>"The traverse crux"</i><br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg73blKz8qe8GQibvvturGHfEW4FJN0aBizEp819361u07t2ThtZ2Qpkn7ltKpmwlS8N2C3rct9nWo08akoOVpgNOGCAhhuHLAjT3KaX_TqTuzuJa5kM4anSS-_fHeJ9PXCzh2flyuS1Ck/s1600/Jarle+Fabelita+2.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg73blKz8qe8GQibvvturGHfEW4FJN0aBizEp819361u07t2ThtZ2Qpkn7ltKpmwlS8N2C3rct9nWo08akoOVpgNOGCAhhuHLAjT3KaX_TqTuzuJa5kM4anSS-_fHeJ9PXCzh2flyuS1Ck/s1600/Jarle+Fabelita+2.jpg" width="510" /></a></div>
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<i>"Skipping the bolt at the mono to save some much needed energy"</i><br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhRD-MBKowuBmw0ZbZupEiHZKXE_zz-vRGJ54Zbx6iR7kiy0nvtF_Y9zVknQ3ZDdp8l1GjGw0X_iNsGzYozNt6FV2uQeRHZRk9ZkCYLt9jcuw1tVHlegM2IfbjEtg5rfzvxre5DVIrYO_Q/s1600/Jarle+Fabelita+3.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhRD-MBKowuBmw0ZbZupEiHZKXE_zz-vRGJ54Zbx6iR7kiy0nvtF_Y9zVknQ3ZDdp8l1GjGw0X_iNsGzYozNt6FV2uQeRHZRk9ZkCYLt9jcuw1tVHlegM2IfbjEtg5rfzvxre5DVIrYO_Q/s1600/Jarle+Fabelita+3.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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<i>"Jarle fucking up his leg in a desperate attempt at resting before the final hard move to the anchor" </i></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhuGFBAAKFFp8cbQ-Onn0ZQYYZCCSbU5OTCeT0RV7cgf-P9pCXHgbOWEonQKh3cvn4FcQ16UkNd1QEeLwZos3OLCRYXUWHIv8yu0w-zOYipqDyrThpMjS4hVp_JKb7CeLPCuykU47hySSU/s1600/Seiers+kava+1.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="426" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhuGFBAAKFFp8cbQ-Onn0ZQYYZCCSbU5OTCeT0RV7cgf-P9pCXHgbOWEonQKh3cvn4FcQ16UkNd1QEeLwZos3OLCRYXUWHIv8yu0w-zOYipqDyrThpMjS4hVp_JKb7CeLPCuykU47hySSU/s1600/Seiers+kava+1.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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<i>"Celebration Cava"</i></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhPXgpwaSXqPjWAVVqRRqO0Swx8zAKBY8ncvnqIGprvFQn5IKiGHd3fQ06tZ0NIfvRLkld_8TR_w9jKixNcNDp5w_EaHbh0LIXhiAncPlunKjx83vGqFhVRlBtekiHHhgnBF8hF1SAGPrI/s1600/Seiers+kava+2.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="426" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhPXgpwaSXqPjWAVVqRRqO0Swx8zAKBY8ncvnqIGprvFQn5IKiGHd3fQ06tZ0NIfvRLkld_8TR_w9jKixNcNDp5w_EaHbh0LIXhiAncPlunKjx83vGqFhVRlBtekiHHhgnBF8hF1SAGPrI/s1600/Seiers+kava+2.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjQtVaXpGSWxBCal9V6SnIJdsXYUHQOsF7QZhlsG0zwETfJsAAvkhBX1S9ViIWNaj19EiYdZnEpguKHOhxVkBNjHMWJWSz5ra-s3uy5Rry8RUyXOhKtvm3SX-0dv7h-PZhKfKncC2iO4sc/s1600/Seiers+kava+3.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="426" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjQtVaXpGSWxBCal9V6SnIJdsXYUHQOsF7QZhlsG0zwETfJsAAvkhBX1S9ViIWNaj19EiYdZnEpguKHOhxVkBNjHMWJWSz5ra-s3uy5Rry8RUyXOhKtvm3SX-0dv7h-PZhKfKncC2iO4sc/s1600/Seiers+kava+3.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiyaoisrE2E9otamiVSzDFLbRXi4okDK28rcqKrPua89pjxq6mDOjEacqyGsawx341tPb3FyVtDj51Dqz1p6fqujlxQDaIx1kbd7N96Wb3dpGQDmKE3PLSkDL8dmqk1AR6Vof4lhQ768rU/s1600/Roger+-+Paela.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em; text-align: center;"><img border="0" height="426" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiyaoisrE2E9otamiVSzDFLbRXi4okDK28rcqKrPua89pjxq6mDOjEacqyGsawx341tPb3FyVtDj51Dqz1p6fqujlxQDaIx1kbd7N96Wb3dpGQDmKE3PLSkDL8dmqk1AR6Vof4lhQ768rU/s1600/Roger+-+Paela.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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<i>"Roger, happy with the results after his first attempt at making paella" </i><br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgJzDv8yMzlV5lQklXBl3UrTWGT-BVsemihVMQ4ukp6kqwoT2Z_dkrswAmVSZmPhIToI8wqF1Zbanrn15k6GJosVENFbkcVU5B4ORC22vyvxqrLMchPHhyphenhyphenwfO6lwH2coagsFxM4N16mog4/s1600/Roger+++Sindre+-+Paela.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em; text-align: center;"><img border="0" height="426" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgJzDv8yMzlV5lQklXBl3UrTWGT-BVsemihVMQ4ukp6kqwoT2Z_dkrswAmVSZmPhIToI8wqF1Zbanrn15k6GJosVENFbkcVU5B4ORC22vyvxqrLMchPHhyphenhyphenwfO6lwH2coagsFxM4N16mog4/s1600/Roger+++Sindre+-+Paela.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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<i>"Sindre, a bit more sceptical"</i></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhcYBF0ALCs6mw22XdGdaDxVvqkQcNh8rlCs1z51vfmnf1xcmLmbjxM9_zpOKLvkfY2E8ILw5vUZ_MxoVkNueqDXJrsdgdTCURdkZdF_Xb5kZNc5IUos5qGqnGqG2dkhJkxJppXVfNQChk/s1600/St.+Lorence.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><br /><img border="0" height="426" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhcYBF0ALCs6mw22XdGdaDxVvqkQcNh8rlCs1z51vfmnf1xcmLmbjxM9_zpOKLvkfY2E8ILw5vUZ_MxoVkNueqDXJrsdgdTCURdkZdF_Xb5kZNc5IUos5qGqnGqG2dkhJkxJppXVfNQChk/s1600/St.+Lorence.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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<i>"Exchanging one cave for another we found our way to St. Lorençe de Montgai"</i> </div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjxNnJ8k17iYdWFFvv7cjv36oCknkKfmLWMdxQcm7j6OW5f-4mLFxURxESv3Xlt-_B_GfYWLdGD0BYMIvOxP790OypgRuMGfgS7C9wIXPi5iXMeIu14PoH83qJ5UD8J_4CfCgFsSMdix_c/s1600/Sindre+-+Prevantiva+8b.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjxNnJ8k17iYdWFFvv7cjv36oCknkKfmLWMdxQcm7j6OW5f-4mLFxURxESv3Xlt-_B_GfYWLdGD0BYMIvOxP790OypgRuMGfgS7C9wIXPi5iXMeIu14PoH83qJ5UD8J_4CfCgFsSMdix_c/s1600/Sindre+-+Prevantiva+8b.jpg" width="426" /></a></div>
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<i>"Sindre making a quick second go accent of Preventiva (8b)"</i></div>
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With Jarle gone, we tried again to get back to the rhythm of one day in the cave and the next day somewhere else, and succeeded a bit better then before. </div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEixfMbJQtQBmX-W_lnkk-bFXUCq6yaWd9Iteq1i101k6EGUvCcuwGBsnnJDR4MkiikzUgtRxUiNqpUm1swoH4zP5SYJ7xopUHs-fnjJBaAcwW6EO_qfU0zW0Xmw64WDkA7j8DdPOptXRVc/s1600/Sindre+-+8a++terradets.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="426" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEixfMbJQtQBmX-W_lnkk-bFXUCq6yaWd9Iteq1i101k6EGUvCcuwGBsnnJDR4MkiikzUgtRxUiNqpUm1swoH4zP5SYJ7xopUHs-fnjJBaAcwW6EO_qfU0zW0Xmw64WDkA7j8DdPOptXRVc/s1600/Sindre+-+8a++terradets.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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<i>"Sindre gets up one of the rarely repeated 8a´s on the blank looking right hand side of Terradets" </i><br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiS76FDIn_YeFwhl6C-pAKkxa9VJlItEG7oyXhVsVgu8euTqupegduqK7onQTSG_hMDC8OKjPisCDvGABN1E1FAxpJF2-YCve5sUEJulzR_Q9WijdCsdTlMahxJ6w8oYKA-qo_d3FHpuLE/s1600/Henning+-+Red+Bull.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em; text-align: center;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiS76FDIn_YeFwhl6C-pAKkxa9VJlItEG7oyXhVsVgu8euTqupegduqK7onQTSG_hMDC8OKjPisCDvGABN1E1FAxpJF2-YCve5sUEJulzR_Q9WijdCsdTlMahxJ6w8oYKA-qo_d3FHpuLE/s1600/Henning+-+Red+Bull.jpg" width="426" /></a></div>
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<i>"I struggle on the super classic (and super polished) Red Bull"</i><br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhm-0LtW2mR1J3UnW08WDBLon-XwEqDLCBlVwggMqV8P8dF7tKpVnoVmA45MLnn4LmSyhsw5WMO70PN0GzOCFP8WSt21r6FKFyg1_-rEfbRiUXjljY92xwbhtBFTgV03XyhS8Qj7UoFG_Y/s1600/Sindre+-+Alos.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="426" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhm-0LtW2mR1J3UnW08WDBLon-XwEqDLCBlVwggMqV8P8dF7tKpVnoVmA45MLnn4LmSyhsw5WMO70PN0GzOCFP8WSt21r6FKFyg1_-rEfbRiUXjljY92xwbhtBFTgV03XyhS8Qj7UoFG_Y/s1600/Sindre+-+Alos.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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<i>"Sindre onsighting another classic, The Order of the Phoenix (8a) at Alós de Balaguer"</i></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhenShNDPfEQ9lXEQKErU4k3E-Tdkjlf7eSzLmU9MbKH4ciNKRLg-Fwvb6zHoqFaDIkfO5UtwBX9rsPaV6Jb8KqPYFjYhb7W4UsEOf7SiASuhlxPaNZSOZzCppDAVzOZGcDW2WglBTZTss/s1600/Henning+-+7c++alos.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhenShNDPfEQ9lXEQKErU4k3E-Tdkjlf7eSzLmU9MbKH4ciNKRLg-Fwvb6zHoqFaDIkfO5UtwBX9rsPaV6Jb8KqPYFjYhb7W4UsEOf7SiASuhlxPaNZSOZzCppDAVzOZGcDW2WglBTZTss/s1600/Henning+-+7c++alos.jpg" width="426" /></a></div>
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<i>"I on the other hand climb badly and need 4 attempts to get up the "easy" 7c+.."</i></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhoyHJ91m0R_3i6Z_vwod98g512g0YUTPHmxiPkfwHNqQ6Da5y_pfL5o0jfT0czfFvV2yoDfEPs38sHj3sh63x8uYdOwqlgphKca3UNQL7LBypSejkxNBrch8DSscxwFXM8Qsq_2YaR_L8/s1600/2013-12-12+11.03.37.jpg" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhoyHJ91m0R_3i6Z_vwod98g512g0YUTPHmxiPkfwHNqQ6Da5y_pfL5o0jfT0czfFvV2yoDfEPs38sHj3sh63x8uYdOwqlgphKca3UNQL7LBypSejkxNBrch8DSscxwFXM8Qsq_2YaR_L8/s320/2013-12-12+11.03.37.jpg" width="478" /></a></div>
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<i>"As always it´s freezing cold in the shade and boiling hot in the sun, here on one of the rest day runs" </i></div>
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Sindre, having spent this seasons cave days on last seasons project, la Fabela pa Enmienda (9a), finally regained some lost endurance, and looking stronger then before, got up la Fabela (8c+) three times in a row. </div>
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Now while I say three times in a row you have to realise that he only got in one good try in a day due to conditions and the length and difficulty of the route, and since we only spent every third day in the cave, 3 attempts basically meant 9 days. </div>
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But before getting up la Fabela (again), he spent his cave time making links and basically training on the route, and when he then started going from the ground, he fell at the crux of the first pitch several times before finally sticking it.</div>
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He then went on to falling in the upper crux twice, before his third successful accent of la Fabela of the season (5 time in total) finally made the full link to the top, becoming the second norwegian after Magnus to get up the magic grade of 9a. </div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiyZm78A5Ik-v4llIH5StkjqzAeYABbrxxeFnnTm1yR-wL-D_pIFUoVearPDxH3yR_L9bfoIVtJ4HsAnfeQr2OEV92oE8ZgoWwfSpjRypQdEQdOw3F935lyO9fG7rLuZysHs0b4QPRX3vE/s1600/Sindre+-+project+big.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiyZm78A5Ik-v4llIH5StkjqzAeYABbrxxeFnnTm1yR-wL-D_pIFUoVearPDxH3yR_L9bfoIVtJ4HsAnfeQr2OEV92oE8ZgoWwfSpjRypQdEQdOw3F935lyO9fG7rLuZysHs0b4QPRX3vE/s1600/Sindre+-+project+big.jpg" width="426" /></a></div>
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<i>"Sindre, "el grande noruego" most likely the first man over 80 kilo´s to climb 9a in the cave" </i></div>
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Not long after, Sindre got called back to work, and having postponed our shopping trip to Barcelona long enough, Roger and I ended up going in to the big city with him. </div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgaHmlYdbcAyG4Zrxl2t1LhuKGQa60vYK8Wl0Ew_85CIbjnJ2CeMO9dTMjvT-l4euCy6VU0NDFkf1guGacWlgS5sLM7Ucx9jEkfge_nzh0I1oIuixwyq_PhzNibgqtkmQAcLsaisRwqLOo/s1600/2013-12-05+12.58.23.jpg" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" height="478" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgaHmlYdbcAyG4Zrxl2t1LhuKGQa60vYK8Wl0Ew_85CIbjnJ2CeMO9dTMjvT-l4euCy6VU0NDFkf1guGacWlgS5sLM7Ucx9jEkfge_nzh0I1oIuixwyq_PhzNibgqtkmQAcLsaisRwqLOo/s320/2013-12-05+12.58.23.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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<i>"Not normally a big shopping fan, I must admit that sofa testing at spanish IKEA was right up my ally" </i></div>
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And in a shopping kinda mood, I decided it was time to get a big-ass tv at the same time, considerably upgrading the "comfort" standard of our humble abode. </div>
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<i>"The living room, finally turned liveable"</i> </div>
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Wanghttp://www.blogger.com/profile/14840965362641239826noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5406441149653791722.post-91110272991972263982013-11-17T07:59:00.001-08:002013-11-17T07:59:32.793-08:00New beginnings <div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
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<span style="font-family: Times, Times New Roman, serif;">It´s come to my attention that it´s been a while since my last confession. </span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Times, Times New Roman, serif;">This is of course not the first time I neglect to update the blog for months at a time, but this time, instead of trying to sum it up with tons of old outdated blog posts, I´ll just jump right to the conclusion. </span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Times, Times New Roman, serif;"><span style="line-height: 22px;">Apparently I´v been bad, and if there was a Santa he would probably pass me by this year. </span></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Times, Times New Roman, serif;">Luckily for me I don´t believe in magic fat men crawling down chimneys, so I might just be fine :)</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Times, Times New Roman, serif;">Now, this has of course having nothing to do with what this blog post is all about. </span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Times, Times New Roman, serif;">What I´m really supposed to write about is the beginning of a new winter season, a new era really as it´s the first winter in Spain without Hannah joining me.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Times, Times New Roman, serif;">Replacing Hannah as my main partner this year is Roger. </span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Times, Times New Roman, serif;">That´s right, it´s gonna be all testosterone, short lines to the bathroom and few reasons to think about anything but climbing. </span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Times, Times New Roman, serif;">Not that Hannah actually spent that much time in the bathroom, but thats beside the point. </span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Times, Times New Roman, serif;">Without a female presence, the dynamics of the collective will change, be that for the better or worse time will tell, all I know is that this year will be different. </span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Times, Times New Roman, serif;">With the film now in post production, (thought still missing Magnus´s/Sindre´s send footage), I´m also psyched to finally focus a bit more on my own climbing this year, then I perhaps have done in the previous seasons.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Times, Times New Roman, serif;">Returning somewhat in the style of the first season, we drove down and stopped by Fontainebleau on the way. That is, Roger drove down, and I was along for the ride.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Times, Times New Roman, serif;">Since Roger got off work a few days before me, he decided to drive to Font on his own and let me fly down and meet him there, something I was pretty happy about as the drive down is pretty boring.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Times, Times New Roman, serif;"><span style="line-height: 22px; text-align: -webkit-auto;">Unsure of the weather and how long we would stay we decided to go for the cheap solution of free camping at the hippodrome. </span> </span></div>
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<i>"Roger contemplating the weather"</i></div>
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<span style="font-family: Times, Times New Roman, serif;">After a few days of cold and windy nights combined with evening/morning rain, we soon had our fill with the camping life, and invited ourselves to stay with fellow "trønder" Tarjei and the two danish Katrine and Bjørn at their gite. </span><br />
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<i>"The nice looking gite before I spilled red wine all over the carpet"</i></div>
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<i>"The mandatory pointless picture of a baguette, this one made by Tarjei" </i></div>
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<i>"Tarjei, struggling with some complex numbers, (here more interested in the guidebook), gets some help from dr. Roger, who for some reason brought his calculator on a 5 month climbing trip..." </i></div>
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Font, mainly known for a freakin huge castle, or to climbers for it´s great sandstone bouldering, can be a crispy dream come true or a wet nightmare. </div>
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Now I wish that was a sexual reference, but boring as it might sound, I´m talking about the weather.</div>
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As my luck in Font (still talking about the weather) has been pretty bad the last few trips, I guess I can say we got a bit more lucky this time and got a bit of both.</div>
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The first few days however were wet, and we just walked around in the forest and looked at boulders. </div>
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Then it dried up and we got a few good days, but still I didn´t really have much success, coming close to a lot, and yet getting to the top of nothing.</div>
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It wasn´t before we left the somewhat wet and tiering camping life behind, that things really started turning around. </div>
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Having spent a considerable amount of time in Font in my "youth", the list of unfinished projects is, and probably always will be long. </div>
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This time, seeing as we still didn´t know how long we would stay, and the weather being quite unstable, I choose to focus on the problems drying the quickest, and of course the once haunting me the most.</div>
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First on that list was Vandale. </div>
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5 years ago I fell off 1 cm from the top jug, I then came back for it a year later on my way down to Spain, found I was weak and the start a bit wet, tried anyway, and ultimately failed.</div>
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Feeling stronger then I previously had in Font, the turning point of the trip then naturally came with my return to Vandale.</div>
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It was early in the morning, the sun was on the rock, the air was cold and after a quick warm up, I was up there slapping for the blind hold. </div>
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After a few failed attempts I stuck it, pulled myself together, and finished it off, opening my eyes to the possibility that my other projects might be within reach as well. </div>
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"Vandale"</div>
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After another rainy day, I decided it was a good time to get back on one of Font´s other classic fast drying 7C´s, Eclipse at Cul de Chien.</div>
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My first attempts on it was surprisingly promising, getting my hands all the way up in the right position for the final move, something I´d never been able to do before. </div>
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Unfortunately getting the foot into position was a different matter. Having done almost no stretching the last year, I found it very high and awkward, and seeing no quick solution to the problem, I changed my focus to L'Œil de la Sybille instead.</div>
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L'Œil de la Sybille is one of those famous Fred Nicole problems that like Karma, I´v been looking at and dreaming about doing for years, but never really been strong enough to get anywhere on.</div>
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After a quick play on it now thought, I realised that this no longer seemed to be the case. </div>
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Completely forgetting Eclipse, I got to work on it, and before long was almost sticking the dyno from the ground.</div>
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Because of rain earlier in the day we started late, and before I knew it it was dark. Not having brought any good lights, I decided to call it, wowing to return in a few days.</div>
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A few days later, after some more rain, I returned with the full crew. </div>
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Tarjei, also psyched on the problem, and Roger, Bjørn and Katrine, in general psyched never having been there before.</div>
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<i>"Katrine warming up on a 6A traverse, here pissed at me for putting some sand on a hold"</i></div>
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<i>"Roger attempting the tricky slab (Svæ!) warm up, carefully watched over by Tarjei" </i></div>
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<i>"Katrine sticking the crux move on the Svæ!" </i></div>
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<i>"Tarjei, apparently never needing to warm up, spends some quality time on Rogers pad" </i></div>
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After an extremely relevant slab warm up, we all went down to the famous roof.<br />
Apparently not the only ones realising this would be a good place to be a few hours after rain, we were however not alone.<br />
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At first glance the boulder looked nice and dry, but at closer inspection the roof part of L'Œil de la Sybille had gotten wet..<br />
So instead of getting down to business, I ended up trying to dry it up, and wasting some more energy on Eclipse.<br />
A few hours later it seemed dry enough to be climbable, but while I got close, it was not meant to be this session either.<br />
In the meantime Bjørn completely crushed the rest of the roof classics, first sending la Nouvelle vague (7C), then Arabesque (7B+) and finally Eclipse (7C).<br />
Tarjei, having done most of the problems before, also made an epic accent of la Nouvelle Vague (7C), crawling into a big hole at the top, ass first, and then spent 5 minutes trying to get back out.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgjlKK_eO4FjcpjLpW-KugsPIkGoISgtm-4MDBQugVQwRPjlBhEv9ibgRIP1OclHrLj4ajFBIZMgiG7wSY90ZlWCnppyK7jYMd44T63YPsU1ULcBMd92P1ihRnPvVIDscvBaBN5JzyYYoo/s1600/arabesque.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="426" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgjlKK_eO4FjcpjLpW-KugsPIkGoISgtm-4MDBQugVQwRPjlBhEv9ibgRIP1OclHrLj4ajFBIZMgiG7wSY90ZlWCnppyK7jYMd44T63YPsU1ULcBMd92P1ihRnPvVIDscvBaBN5JzyYYoo/s640/arabesque.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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<i>"Katrine looking strong on Arabesque"</i></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgteiEMGn16H4nsbhTRnx0Fxk5dUjACuBMn-Q1dNlcMP8wXvQ0lO4R-kZLEx2sRFbYQWUfoXXHF19PW0ShAbueKbdIdXIvmCrBGCniyHJYzUCS3VlkznTF6N_3KTUrj7P2QC0xgNy3GX8g/s1600/Nouvelle+Vague+2.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgteiEMGn16H4nsbhTRnx0Fxk5dUjACuBMn-Q1dNlcMP8wXvQ0lO4R-kZLEx2sRFbYQWUfoXXHF19PW0ShAbueKbdIdXIvmCrBGCniyHJYzUCS3VlkznTF6N_3KTUrj7P2QC0xgNy3GX8g/s640/Nouvelle+Vague+2.jpg" width="425" /></a></div>
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<i>"Tarjei crushing the slopers of la Nouvelle Vague, here </i><span style="text-align: left;"><i>spotted by fellow strongman Øyvind"</i></span></div>
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<span style="text-align: left;"><i>(btw congrats on Karma Øyvind!) </i></span></div>
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Then the next day, feeling tired and sore all over, I returned with Tarjei to L'Œil de la Sybille.<br />
Tarjei as usual not seeming to need any form of warm up, got straight on, did the roof dyno a few times, and then just sat down and did it.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg-ZwQignBnAFBGs2SgG7BmCV_xnNgD1ouXCxztV20RmaobscxGtMzU7TMaNCbJayWuQOZOlQsSL56zMpi54qNv5ojqEDEIWsEgkJvGpNo7zmwBMDr_v1sluWo3C9oFU4qfLQLvrGcJ-i0/s1600/tj+sybille+2.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="426" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg-ZwQignBnAFBGs2SgG7BmCV_xnNgD1ouXCxztV20RmaobscxGtMzU7TMaNCbJayWuQOZOlQsSL56zMpi54qNv5ojqEDEIWsEgkJvGpNo7zmwBMDr_v1sluWo3C9oFU4qfLQLvrGcJ-i0/s640/tj+sybille+2.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgjS65ej34eFzs-3K9RItHovlXwryskZULqsTN7ZBv8hog6AqhwTS3qabzZ6J_8Hz3ijOlWQBwivB2wec3fYi_cqWJEwA-sIRHzXdHJ5Ij5cSKiz7l5solmORKv9NrQMKuyp-miQ_YzG-U/s1600/tj+sybille+1.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="426" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgjS65ej34eFzs-3K9RItHovlXwryskZULqsTN7ZBv8hog6AqhwTS3qabzZ6J_8Hz3ijOlWQBwivB2wec3fYi_cqWJEwA-sIRHzXdHJ5Ij5cSKiz7l5solmORKv9NrQMKuyp-miQ_YzG-U/s640/tj+sybille+1.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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<i>"Tarjei sticking the 154 cm long roof dyno on the actual ascent" </i></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhEHMJqn5PjD7Gdx9S0x8vi4cjqvYzVvCgaSRToia3zgeEx5BvPZX1MDOxFIANiEVVQah_X0fQMOJ1pmd9HtVZ1P5rAgwNmR2so0pBbeExAvO7yBvMyX1-IiFv6kxuQdf8qVmJzsXWyjuc/s1600/tj+sybille+3.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="426" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhEHMJqn5PjD7Gdx9S0x8vi4cjqvYzVvCgaSRToia3zgeEx5BvPZX1MDOxFIANiEVVQah_X0fQMOJ1pmd9HtVZ1P5rAgwNmR2so0pBbeExAvO7yBvMyX1-IiFv6kxuQdf8qVmJzsXWyjuc/s640/tj+sybille+3.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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<i>"Tarjei, looking all surprised, tops out </i><span style="text-align: left;"><i>L'Œil de la Sybille just 10 min after getting there"</i></span></div>
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While Tarjei was topping out, I had barely started warming up..<br />
Now, I´v rarely felt as old as when I then needed a full hour to get the warm enough to do the dyno that Tarjei did on his first "warm up" try..<br />
Eventually thought I managed to get the machine going, sat down, missed the dyno a few times, suddenly stuck it, and then found myself on the top, just as surprised as Tarjei 1,5 hour before.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhqUX8z6n3EkY-4HQOrn51EjI-uEplW9HKBfVqcoXRLKI2kLrksJSFYQ1vc0HfdVgMEqAaWQEOPmIKPylhsU98ni1ErvTCJChiKP6WFzU1F1psGfbVDaBuWB5tXHDrpVoNDHdZ3k54-a_s/s1600/w+sybille.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="426" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhqUX8z6n3EkY-4HQOrn51EjI-uEplW9HKBfVqcoXRLKI2kLrksJSFYQ1vc0HfdVgMEqAaWQEOPmIKPylhsU98ni1ErvTCJChiKP6WFzU1F1psGfbVDaBuWB5tXHDrpVoNDHdZ3k54-a_s/s640/w+sybille.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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<i>"me (finally!) sticking the dyno"</i></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhmrBj25OZzAZ7Pfiro9DZniU21ZjT0aekX72rso5GOkAYnnUd3asrgT6dpslqY0S92nxZi-ty4vS1g19Ml5AWIUDMZ-4LBEM-AvE8Mj5vad1ZdEX21SpzRg0OP81OFmin_vmFuslhdqDs/s1600/font+fingers.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em; text-align: left;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhmrBj25OZzAZ7Pfiro9DZniU21ZjT0aekX72rso5GOkAYnnUd3asrgT6dpslqY0S92nxZi-ty4vS1g19Ml5AWIUDMZ-4LBEM-AvE8Mj5vad1ZdEX21SpzRg0OP81OFmin_vmFuslhdqDs/s640/font+fingers.jpg" width="426" /></a></div>
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<i>"The skin after sending </i><i style="text-align: left;">L'Œil de la Sybille, painfully </i><i>ready for the next </i><span style="text-align: left;"><i>challenge"</i></span></div>
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After finishing up at Cul de Chien, we drove down to meet up with the rest of the crew at Buthiers.</div>
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Danish, an easy language to hear at a distance, quickly lead us a frustrated Bjørn trying the classic Controle A.<br />
With Tarjei, having done the problem before now in place, Bjørns life got a bit easier.<br />
Bjørn, having been trying to establish and move up on the boulder from a standing position, found it quite a lot easier when Tarjei explained that it was a kick/jump start, and that he did not actually have to try to climb the blank looking lower part. </div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi_zlEh1EjHn6fIlbyVBBymqbqmrE0qTBjf-zx9rVOmVW1klVjujItr-DpJIrBYuxIUZRO5vehGvKchcXKXaZP5WaL2UUSIaFJ36t39xPVSHRjlXizr6M8bpcer1WAq8eausocYQA6HxOE/s1600/why+are+they+getting+the+bisquites.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi_zlEh1EjHn6fIlbyVBBymqbqmrE0qTBjf-zx9rVOmVW1klVjujItr-DpJIrBYuxIUZRO5vehGvKchcXKXaZP5WaL2UUSIaFJ36t39xPVSHRjlXizr6M8bpcer1WAq8eausocYQA6HxOE/s640/why+are+they+getting+the+bisquites.jpg" width="426" /></a></div>
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<i>"</i><i>Tarjei and Katrine gets way with all the cookies while </i><i>Bjørn slaps his way up Control A (7C)" </i></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiW3bEK8eGr6e8mni4hAsGyaAl10y4maU7q2fnP7yv0VcXRuxAu3iKRzOAFfNTGDbnXkH1aWVJLSaJfh8hGq4_-kbx3S90XACl1k7n4eUDimuUHZ5j2iuk1BEo9KfvScKc6dK9Zp-vedds/s1600/tj+dosage.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiW3bEK8eGr6e8mni4hAsGyaAl10y4maU7q2fnP7yv0VcXRuxAu3iKRzOAFfNTGDbnXkH1aWVJLSaJfh8hGq4_-kbx3S90XACl1k7n4eUDimuUHZ5j2iuk1BEo9KfvScKc6dK9Zp-vedds/s640/tj+dosage.jpg" width="426" /></a></div>
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<i>"Tarjei, barely having spent any energy on </i><i style="text-align: left;">L'Œil de la Sybille, quickly crushed Dosage (7C)"</i><i> </i></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj3tP2iUtjzP8WC9yTe-5t78Q8yIzNlbm4JfFC36vw7jUHNJKoyB8ZlsOo_kl5N64HPFxp173V-r47jSHHSHKEHvgRZFwukMZiAszHr9hJe8X6vv3drrebG9nJbfMD9rwvpBylOawt1_6A/s1600/grab+that+ass.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj3tP2iUtjzP8WC9yTe-5t78Q8yIzNlbm4JfFC36vw7jUHNJKoyB8ZlsOo_kl5N64HPFxp173V-r47jSHHSHKEHvgRZFwukMZiAszHr9hJe8X6vv3drrebG9nJbfMD9rwvpBylOawt1_6A/s640/grab+that+ass.jpg" width="426" /></a></div>
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<i>"Roger, getting a sweet ass double cheek spot from Tarjei and Bjørn"</i></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEikeTZh5sqNvmoGNLu9k0W1onat14zR4xfQHT3gRHeYfREwJ8UusaTYjQmImHRE08uk292TrPo9-G-nz6xe9JOst5x0nFyX3lkgZoa2k2VFrWFQ17d9JIwgFkSpluAlcr-lciG8yHyT_do/s1600/roger+6c.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="426" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEikeTZh5sqNvmoGNLu9k0W1onat14zR4xfQHT3gRHeYfREwJ8UusaTYjQmImHRE08uk292TrPo9-G-nz6xe9JOst5x0nFyX3lkgZoa2k2VFrWFQ17d9JIwgFkSpluAlcr-lciG8yHyT_do/s640/roger+6c.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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<i>"Roger crimps down, and desperately tries to slap his way up a classic blank looking Font top-out"</i></div>
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Just before dark I then went back to one of my longterm projects, la Coccinelle. Having already been on it a short session on the "rest day", I felt ready. </div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj3zsBJbH8JeSoCmdA6YBS016I6NI7iobW5_gYNvAngQ5fORp8h2YP2InyHVFQzvvtSQF9s4rRr9nLDCrxMO3moMIVFi4SgUbk8aUJs_SXMuF-w9urPpRAU0qvuhrALB9snOAn7VZUQtPU/s1600/coccinelle.jpg" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" height="426" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj3zsBJbH8JeSoCmdA6YBS016I6NI7iobW5_gYNvAngQ5fORp8h2YP2InyHVFQzvvtSQF9s4rRr9nLDCrxMO3moMIVFi4SgUbk8aUJs_SXMuF-w9urPpRAU0qvuhrALB9snOAn7VZUQtPU/s640/coccinelle.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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<i> "La Coccinelle (8A trav)"</i></div>
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Unfortunately, as the darkness covered all, and the light from my headlamp became my entire world, I forgot how low of the deck the crux move was, something that with an added crashpad caused me to slightly dab on my one "successful" attempt..</div>
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Dabbing, for those unfamiliar with the term, means that you in some way come in contact with the ground, a pad, a spotter, a tree, a adjacent rock or some other form of item/object not deemed part of the problem.</div>
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A slight dab might mean nothing, but again might mean everything. </div>
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In reality what one feels about the dab does not really matter. A dab is an automatic fail (invalid ascent) no matter if it helps you or not. </div>
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In this case it really felt like it made no difference, but as I just wrote above, that didn´t really matter. </div>
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As the saying goes: In your heart you know.</div>
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So, removing the pad, I kept trying, but running out of both power and skin I eventually had to call it, returning to the gite knowing that I could have done the problem, and yet not having done it. </div>
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Then, on our last day, we woke to rain and some more rain (again). </div>
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We tried driving around a bit, but as it all seemed wet, we decided that a roof with an actual jug at the top was our only option.</div>
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After a quick look in the guidebook, I found a picture of a boulder called la Kraken, and after a much longer then expected walk in, we were there.</div>
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Tarjei, as usual in no need of a warm up, sent all three variations within an hour, 7C, 7B+, 7C! (thought with some "gulling" at the top, as some did top out, and that was kinda out of the question). </div>
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Bjørn quickly followed, but found the direct (7C) to be to reachy, and I, not as flexible as the rest, got stuck on the first version (7C), struggling to get my feet high enough, eventually failing after several hours of trying.. </div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhii5pHiTpcCE3urZ56HPyhD7ddoRv5mBgIxljzk7X0gF5O3Y6a_K6Ip47UoXWzuQ5N6lC2J3f0L1oXnIg0lYEXSyK-PDNhR-YF7Qjzvdxn-TV5I-INM1V34DsZ50l0QubUpwA8-S_cH7Q/s1600/tj+kraken.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="426" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhii5pHiTpcCE3urZ56HPyhD7ddoRv5mBgIxljzk7X0gF5O3Y6a_K6Ip47UoXWzuQ5N6lC2J3f0L1oXnIg0lYEXSyK-PDNhR-YF7Qjzvdxn-TV5I-INM1V34DsZ50l0QubUpwA8-S_cH7Q/s640/tj+kraken.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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<i>"Tarjei easily dispatching la Kraken droit (7C), on his third attempt" </i></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiUZkH1JJhO7iEQZuIyD5bP4tshZmMiq27ugH4riTzZCN-fQXvMvEUz6UrnCJTrRmKCPA0wedrcW3hJ2qnRF6bTjk0Pxiol3pdXO9HvR9yhfZjoQpF3kUjYpbks-l_29BSDKWurRcG-j8E/s1600/w+kraken+(1).jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="426" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiUZkH1JJhO7iEQZuIyD5bP4tshZmMiq27ugH4riTzZCN-fQXvMvEUz6UrnCJTrRmKCPA0wedrcW3hJ2qnRF6bTjk0Pxiol3pdXO9HvR9yhfZjoQpF3kUjYpbks-l_29BSDKWurRcG-j8E/s640/w+kraken+(1).jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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<i>"Me on the crux move, trying to get my left foot out without the right coming off, here obviously failing"</i></div>
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Then, during our time at la Kraken, the rest of the forest seemed to dry up a bit, and seeing as this was the last day, we moved on to the nearby area of Drei Zinnen for some twilight/night sessioning.<i> </i></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiWa6JFt7KiJfQIMQ8NxXz7yOvZv2nAsIeu7Sggl4szfSAfDM0E75Pr5q6pIliJzN3CMxK9k9UHiK-omiSARotURHjtGiPqRSEB89TmAkQmnqaXqivslrHxdkjTpCbvkHcRRI4YxSYq3lI/s1600/Multipass+7b.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiWa6JFt7KiJfQIMQ8NxXz7yOvZv2nAsIeu7Sggl4szfSAfDM0E75Pr5q6pIliJzN3CMxK9k9UHiK-omiSARotURHjtGiPqRSEB89TmAkQmnqaXqivslrHxdkjTpCbvkHcRRI4YxSYq3lI/s640/Multipass+7b.jpg" width="426" /></a></div>
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<i>"Bjørn sends the classic, </i><i>old-school </i><i>highball, Multipass (7B) in the dark"</i></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiYNca8uEVfG2q_D9fMFUcD5h0bY1ML6uYh9Y6a14XsjcTPkkSz1AxPnEwN3ZikmUEdWCi3Z4wx3CnndPo5nBnKRfzbZJtapa1-mYNtVQyx0cl3YHakH5fNPAFkcRbaXeCiBn28lK5eJT4/s1600/stemnin+drei+zinnen.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiYNca8uEVfG2q_D9fMFUcD5h0bY1ML6uYh9Y6a14XsjcTPkkSz1AxPnEwN3ZikmUEdWCi3Z4wx3CnndPo5nBnKRfzbZJtapa1-mYNtVQyx0cl3YHakH5fNPAFkcRbaXeCiBn28lK5eJT4/s640/stemnin+drei+zinnen.jpg" width="426" /></a></div>
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<i>"Tarjei gets ready to get on Multipass (7B), while I check once more to see that I still have no skin"</i></div>
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Then, after a already long day, I decided to drive down to Buthiers all alone to give the cock a final go.</div>
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The classic Buthiers traverse, la Coccinelle (pronounced something like cock-si-nelle, or for short just the cock), was after yesterdays "dab" ascent, really the one major ascent I was missing for this Font trip to be complete. </div>
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A traverse, for those not so versed in the terms commonly used by climbers, basically refers to moving sideways instead of the somewhat more common concept of moving up. </div>
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In most climbers eyes the perception of a traverse is usually manifested in a lot of shuffling sideways on some sort of ramp/edge. </div>
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The cock however climbs much more like a "normal" boulder, if there is such a thing. </div>
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You start standing, do a few hard/weird sideways moves, and then top out with no shuffling or matching involved.</div>
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Now, I don´t remember when I first tried the cock (oh yes, that sounded all kinds of wrong). What I do remember is that I introduced it to Hannah on our bouldering trip some 5 years ago, and that I had been playing with it on my own before that. </div>
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Initially the cock seemed quite simple and easy to figure out, but after several sessions, I still did not really get it. </div>
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I was pressing, squeezing, pushing and pulling, but no matter how hard I tried sticking the rubber in there, it always seemed to be slipping out. </div>
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Returning this year, stronger and more experienced, I still had to spend several sessions with it before it finally came to me. </div>
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More rubber, not less, was the way to go. </div>
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And so it came to pass that on the last night of our last day, I found myself once again alone with the cock. </div>
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Taking my time, I strapped my rubber on, carefully placed my hand on the outside of the somewhat wet crack, pulled myself in, got two fingers into the pocket just right, and then, in one of those rare perfect moments, it just happened. </div>
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Then, for a short, but oh how sweet a moment, I was the master of the cock, it no longer the master of me.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhM0BeeBJG4s3U15bj3w_vPpuKmWsUBQ4zgc8lBMk0KShmYPtGIJLes2Q4UC8XWwZQT0JF0_RGkhWCYjWDHDnQJlh8umd3pP-UVxIFBRLqRvY2UwCFhmAL0zp1-frQnvC3KE6A7sQuhCVM/s1600/pad+foot.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="426" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhM0BeeBJG4s3U15bj3w_vPpuKmWsUBQ4zgc8lBMk0KShmYPtGIJLes2Q4UC8XWwZQT0JF0_RGkhWCYjWDHDnQJlh8umd3pP-UVxIFBRLqRvY2UwCFhmAL0zp1-frQnvC3KE6A7sQuhCVM/s640/pad+foot.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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<i>"More rubber, not less, was the way to go"</i></div>
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Now, to top this already long and time consuming blog post off, I have in the spirit of wasting your time with more of my nonsense, also made a short film from this years Font extravaganza. Unfortunately for some of you I could not be bothered adding english subtitles, but thought you might be missing out on a few things, it´s pretty straight forward. </div>
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<iframe allowfullscreen="" frameborder="0" height="360" mozallowfullscreen="" src="//player.vimeo.com/video/79408866" webkitallowfullscreen="" width="640"></iframe></div>
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Now, this blog post should have ended right about here, but as Tarjei keeps mentioning his single during his face time with the camera, I figured I´d add some insight, aka beta for you girls out there. </div>
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(This is of course based purely on observation, Tarjei being the wrong sex and all for me personally.)</div>
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Solution 1: be aggressive, make the first move, waiting for him to do it will probably just end in a lot of waiting.</div>
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Solution 2: get him drunk, this, if you had not already figured it out, usually works on most men.</div>
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Where to find him?</div>
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Tarjei has recently moved to Oslo to study, and can probably most days be found lurking about the bouldering walls at Klatreverket with no t-shirt. </div>
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How to approach him?</div>
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Any compliment about his not so large biceps looking large, fierce or powerful will probably do. </div>
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Redeeming qualities:</div>
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Better in the kitchen then his looks would suggest</div>
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From perhaps the best city in Norway (maybe not entirely true, but then again..)</div>
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Not a lot of baggage</div>
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To young to be a full blown cynic</div>
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Cool family </div>
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Might actually get a decent job upon finishing his degree </div>
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Happy hunting girls!</div>
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Wanghttp://www.blogger.com/profile/14840965362641239826noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5406441149653791722.post-84399399929603851752013-04-19T12:49:00.000-07:002013-04-19T13:02:13.807-07:00Something different<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
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The last week has been different. That is the only way I can think off to describe it, and It all started with an old promise. </div>
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My good friend Ole was in Barcelona for a weekend with his work, and I had agreed to come and pick him up in Barcelona and take him to Margalef for a day trip so he could try to finish his old project Aéroplastica (7c+). </div>
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When I said yes to this I had completely forgotten how much driving was involved. I had also figured I would be done with my project and that a trip to Margalef would be nice.</div>
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It wasn´t before we reached Barcelona and reset the GPS that we realised just how much driving we would be in for.</div>
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Santa Linya to Barcelona it´s about 180 km and from Barcalona to Margalef it´s about the same. Basically 360-ish km in the sun on not always the greatest roads.</div>
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When we finally got to Margalef we only had about 2,5 hours before the route got into the sun.</div>
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Ragnhild joined Ole trying and fell 3 times trying to get into the crux pocket. Ole, looking stronger then ever, got passed his old crux three times, but got a bit unlucky and fell just before the jugs. </div>
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Since I had unfinished business back in the cave, I rested, that is if driving all day and then hanging in the rope filming can be described as rest. </div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhC6Sc_Ogl9YkkrV_XvcYXTSGaohrxulWwPinRpG7tZrxsjuMx3HuAqcTjWwMZy09-KlhUCsBsT5KtDnYNSh1nuL_JWMWWQDt5m9ji-xtnWtEd80SZCcX-beOW4DPEStS4k588wSNXTCbU/s1600/Aeroplastica.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhC6Sc_Ogl9YkkrV_XvcYXTSGaohrxulWwPinRpG7tZrxsjuMx3HuAqcTjWwMZy09-KlhUCsBsT5KtDnYNSh1nuL_JWMWWQDt5m9ji-xtnWtEd80SZCcX-beOW4DPEStS4k588wSNXTCbU/s640/Aeroplastica.jpg" width="426" /></a></div>
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<i>"Ragnhild stabbing for the pocket on Aéroplastica"</i></div>
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Returning to Santa Linya the weather changed from fairly good spring conditions to boiling hot summer weather in a day. We tried getting up painfully early and get on the projects, but it was useless.</div>
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At 9 in the morning it was between 16-20 degrees (and no wind) and at 13 it was up to 29.. </div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEho_dFsfvNlMV4o_cs0Svewf9NdwwV7cKfDIfRx_E-hQCRSMXsnMGy7PIxZhNjZuH7lL_XBXQgPFNE8Jk37NCsTt743n-idBNwxiTRNEAgzRedOZMlJ7DRXDBwvfF1Bmzuvn9zjgdZMs_w/s1600/Screen+Shot+2013-04-19+at+12.30.14+PM.png" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEho_dFsfvNlMV4o_cs0Svewf9NdwwV7cKfDIfRx_E-hQCRSMXsnMGy7PIxZhNjZuH7lL_XBXQgPFNE8Jk37NCsTt743n-idBNwxiTRNEAgzRedOZMlJ7DRXDBwvfF1Bmzuvn9zjgdZMs_w/s640/Screen+Shot+2013-04-19+at+12.30.14+PM.png" width="640" /></a></div>
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<i>"The constantly changing weather report"</i></div>
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Done climbing at 11-12 in the morning we suddenly had a lot of time to kill.</div>
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My brother Vemund was out for a visit, and bored of hanging in the house, we ran around outside all day exploring and playing around.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhjp-zcmJMSUwbRCN9-vcJRZQpQa41-CAGZ1EuQsj0cihRbp3_6vPPG-QK_oBuZ2IO7AUsmSNiMUt1fO9DZmi0xVzyTc9zPHfIQ345MH4eiE6sVAsZmvxElrMlxJHaXrt1h1yvKGmN33sE/s1600/Camerasa.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="426" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhjp-zcmJMSUwbRCN9-vcJRZQpQa41-CAGZ1EuQsj0cihRbp3_6vPPG-QK_oBuZ2IO7AUsmSNiMUt1fO9DZmi0xVzyTc9zPHfIQ345MH4eiE6sVAsZmvxElrMlxJHaXrt1h1yvKGmN33sE/s640/Camerasa.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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<i>"Being all touristy in Camerasa"</i></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEicbHCTNT6najYZDo84Uqpmp2tfd900EEQLMr9XfpH_Y2WaM2vWR1_oV2q1NDiok-0ERYp9XD56HNAFF1l9aXTWT517qqIqIVptrs_PcwovqINhyphenhyphenfw6xyi9uk9DeUts0sOa8EHYo-LPnbY/s1600/lyktestolpe.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEicbHCTNT6najYZDo84Uqpmp2tfd900EEQLMr9XfpH_Y2WaM2vWR1_oV2q1NDiok-0ERYp9XD56HNAFF1l9aXTWT517qqIqIVptrs_PcwovqINhyphenhyphenfw6xyi9uk9DeUts0sOa8EHYo-LPnbY/s640/lyktestolpe.jpg" width="426" /></a></div>
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<i>"Looking for new climbing areas"</i></div>
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One day as we where chilling down at the beach I got an idea for a picture. Having forgotten my timelaps remote we only had the 10 sec self timer on the camera to play with, and thus a need to time the shot perfectly.</div>
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Basically the idea was for me to jump of Vemunds leg and strike a pose, while he at the same time tried to make it look like he was trowing me.</div>
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I must have jumped about 30 times before we finally got it right, but the final picture is up there as one of my favourite pictures of all time :) </div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjAWswQkKawSHQcAHPyUNIlNCwtMEwBaV-23d_mnJlTRKOsYX9THacEYB0yAoxgTDzM1Zx_92z49w6dwXA71UGTDfeNgBCYMXEgSnUvmSi9Ae_ni2SPvt9h-__UP8p4gA8iO2uusNU2JAk/s1600/photoshot+1.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="426" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjAWswQkKawSHQcAHPyUNIlNCwtMEwBaV-23d_mnJlTRKOsYX9THacEYB0yAoxgTDzM1Zx_92z49w6dwXA71UGTDfeNgBCYMXEgSnUvmSi9Ae_ni2SPvt9h-__UP8p4gA8iO2uusNU2JAk/s640/photoshot+1.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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<i>"Setting up for the jump, camera going off to early"</i></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgVhByVAtByx272SCgbQhweOV4uD2lrgLquzuImtoiMi7xORSeMDPcnxWoaq-n-aRoyFel_j0zSHjcQ0Ek390iO-eotKXIJnk8SwevEdW2gAqOoHJ_JbWEE9FpMb_l0M4euoOCKKqhOKRw/s1600/photoshot+2.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="426" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgVhByVAtByx272SCgbQhweOV4uD2lrgLquzuImtoiMi7xORSeMDPcnxWoaq-n-aRoyFel_j0zSHjcQ0Ek390iO-eotKXIJnk8SwevEdW2gAqOoHJ_JbWEE9FpMb_l0M4euoOCKKqhOKRw/s640/photoshot+2.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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<i>"Jumping, camera still going off to early"</i></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjFvtpicU0UFLh3rg4JrrPfpIsfWqsFdZmRTpdKM66BCk9DXqstTsMJENY5XOmlwSvbsNI-c6tz-vaEB0Nipzm0-QjhvwWIipywofZjvbvgbFAXKMtmgeLGN4_u-vDANQLc11O0mjmyjdQ/s1600/photoshot+3.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="426" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjFvtpicU0UFLh3rg4JrrPfpIsfWqsFdZmRTpdKM66BCk9DXqstTsMJENY5XOmlwSvbsNI-c6tz-vaEB0Nipzm0-QjhvwWIipywofZjvbvgbFAXKMtmgeLGN4_u-vDANQLc11O0mjmyjdQ/s640/photoshot+3.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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<i>"In flight, hitting the camera timing right, but with a bad pose"</i></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgKycpBSvRU1bw9uwKj9kf88c9_YCZ_cMLqA5m6KId5am0Dbi9Wcalnx3DOk_xmuC1x2RmUuIg-vO7aI1KsATxjCYcK5pNUF_P8lCwnjTEMK0uhWHAG0vl4eT6j8Pv0GMv-UZ4lzYMencI/s1600/photoshot+4.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="426" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgKycpBSvRU1bw9uwKj9kf88c9_YCZ_cMLqA5m6KId5am0Dbi9Wcalnx3DOk_xmuC1x2RmUuIg-vO7aI1KsATxjCYcK5pNUF_P8lCwnjTEMK0uhWHAG0vl4eT6j8Pv0GMv-UZ4lzYMencI/s640/photoshot+4.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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<i>"Landing, the camera going off to late"</i></div>
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<img border="0" height="426" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj9ZIu_I3ve0ZWvz8fpv-CDmAhnINJ8OnKvBXIUeXbS_Oi4oSKEmp-tIQFn7GO_yc7OKKQfevdOUVuW5TsAs7KP51F1qNYJqeMtgk5d267rW0HVFppxeq-bkK9iVB9i2P1S6NXXzMtb52k/s640/photoshot+5.jpg" width="640" /></div>
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<i>"Then, finally, THE SHOT!"</i></div>
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<i><br /></i></div>
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Then on Magnus last day, with the heat still in effect and our motivation for the cave dwindling, we decided over the morning coffee to take a break and head up to Rodellar instead.</div>
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Now I could write a story from my point of view, but as it would be fairly similar to the one already written by Magnus, so I´ll just post a few pic´s and a link to his story: </div>
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<a href="http://blog.norrona.com/2013/04/magnus-midtbo-onsighting-8c-in-rodellar/">http://blog.norrona.com/2013/04/magnus-midtbo-onsighting-8c-in-rodellar/</a></div>
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One day in Rodellar</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiUklFutSLI3tEfvcpWMCVeIgv5J-7ZDOgigr4CjQ5ePbiuIA91-xordzRLxDSPwtzCaGN683YWUWx0SKG2B5xszGHu_4cnuNF8E6D1A6OHPHTesg_fljQhYP2aNIZxXAijpj_ht2vzUjQ/s1600/Anmarsj+-+go+pro+3.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="360" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiUklFutSLI3tEfvcpWMCVeIgv5J-7ZDOgigr4CjQ5ePbiuIA91-xordzRLxDSPwtzCaGN683YWUWx0SKG2B5xszGHu_4cnuNF8E6D1A6OHPHTesg_fljQhYP2aNIZxXAijpj_ht2vzUjQ/s640/Anmarsj+-+go+pro+3.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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<i>"Magnus swimming up the deep part of the river, the water a nice and chilly 10-ish degrees" </i></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgsy5sEVNWr4KPvh3NKgUdTK2ML_CIetImt2znZtoXDUQ9_BNpcGUCRdAkiiJMOF97EOSVDBmXJ1zbBTujEUyAY9527gJz7-NsF0K7h9y1tgAJIdv42lbzeTwsjysHnLYSPcbtR_JLgGRY/s1600/Anmarsj+-+go+pro+2.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em; text-align: center;"><img border="0" height="358" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgsy5sEVNWr4KPvh3NKgUdTK2ML_CIetImt2znZtoXDUQ9_BNpcGUCRdAkiiJMOF97EOSVDBmXJ1zbBTujEUyAY9527gJz7-NsF0K7h9y1tgAJIdv42lbzeTwsjysHnLYSPcbtR_JLgGRY/s640/Anmarsj+-+go+pro+2.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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<i>"More swimming"</i></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiIHnvlGlA2IS9paVs0xVH2-8At7jAw2Zi975azFzHcAy5kyMLW5IvYRebgSxqp1naiarqBkys5DRZzAbTUJgmpeg6QanSgdsguPgJRWUHh5oC1qXHnoc6qOKss9quzbabeYTmNkAa6hkU/s1600/Anmarsj+-+go+pro+1.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em; text-align: center;"><img border="0" height="360" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiIHnvlGlA2IS9paVs0xVH2-8At7jAw2Zi975azFzHcAy5kyMLW5IvYRebgSxqp1naiarqBkys5DRZzAbTUJgmpeg6QanSgdsguPgJRWUHh5oC1qXHnoc6qOKss9quzbabeYTmNkAa6hkU/s640/Anmarsj+-+go+pro+1.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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<i>"The 120 kg max toy boat, somehow we got all 4 in this on the way back"</i></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjjHVId1akSNTEmbR5STjb9a9MBNEhdyMOASqz3PFzscPGQIMeOV4ApGAX6U5PHbUX34_nYdwZlev44biZrVf0xpGN9jqxhGHSUS1MjEQomht8ksp5stVf2Xsxvtajy7pEhKkntVpPCClY/s1600/Rodellar+pose.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em; text-align: center;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjjHVId1akSNTEmbR5STjb9a9MBNEhdyMOASqz3PFzscPGQIMeOV4ApGAX6U5PHbUX34_nYdwZlev44biZrVf0xpGN9jqxhGHSUS1MjEQomht8ksp5stVf2Xsxvtajy7pEhKkntVpPCClY/s640/Rodellar+pose.jpg" width="426" /></a></div>
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<i>"Magnus in one of the nice not so deep parts of the river"</i></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgCQ7l2BGHwAKMb3PCkDvE9hzt6i8dT8iNyIDd9PDLYHkhkkZB5cYj6uKWhL3-XWMuTw2s8zq8LVNXFxxRmAJgsk2eEBiL5Zfy31NsewczIft5y6TzP39anz3XjOcyR6J6S1JFT6qxLo5I/s1600/Black+Pearl+Skitch.jpeg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="426" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgCQ7l2BGHwAKMb3PCkDvE9hzt6i8dT8iNyIDd9PDLYHkhkkZB5cYj6uKWhL3-XWMuTw2s8zq8LVNXFxxRmAJgsk2eEBiL5Zfy31NsewczIft5y6TzP39anz3XjOcyR6J6S1JFT6qxLo5I/s640/Black+Pearl+Skitch.jpeg" width="640" /></a></div>
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<i>"Magnus onsighting Black Pearl part 1 (8a+), the line of Cosi in the background"</i></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjaC_XSYrUtc0rMK_R7hlbeGrNGFmIiOy8xnqT33mKfa-q9BCc4p_KJ7yd1sLSCf8yp5vDhq1S56QmmMA6PwmFrJewzBSol9-F93v_HnQE0unTS1ZfhPlFNEIVyuY_f6tsB1RdEF2tKFzY/s1600/Cosi.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjaC_XSYrUtc0rMK_R7hlbeGrNGFmIiOy8xnqT33mKfa-q9BCc4p_KJ7yd1sLSCf8yp5vDhq1S56QmmMA6PwmFrJewzBSol9-F93v_HnQE0unTS1ZfhPlFNEIVyuY_f6tsB1RdEF2tKFzY/s640/Cosi.jpg" width="426" /></a></div>
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<i>"Magnus onsighting Cosi Fan Tutte (8c+)"</i></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhipDex0gakIZwXKfcvEZuR0zxvsHZa0Pxiyuyt2hOeeJnSVZQubAa_dIuiuGKnOZ5MfdNWarQpeep_yS9Jiu9fDdyivGojQFuRL7bkxuva5Fvadvh2IIpyuUr6AAtYFUI9mKZvx2z82tU/s1600/7b+.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="426" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhipDex0gakIZwXKfcvEZuR0zxvsHZa0Pxiyuyt2hOeeJnSVZQubAa_dIuiuGKnOZ5MfdNWarQpeep_yS9Jiu9fDdyivGojQFuRL7bkxuva5Fvadvh2IIpyuUr6AAtYFUI9mKZvx2z82tU/s640/7b+.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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<i>"Me onsighting the 7b+ warmup route just before the sun hit the wall full on"</i></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjox8AxVABdL6F2AHWabLyjOKmkLaIj1su7DaSx-lL6DB5fsp5jxlN2u7gLqkhQv6-QwdyDSMpA_SYeyjGwjm_RLmEICeSKZvh6iQMcHfRSZSwcj8XR0OnCVrqyn2RPKyS40LcBjiuNYGc/s1600/Rodellar+retur+2.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="426" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjox8AxVABdL6F2AHWabLyjOKmkLaIj1su7DaSx-lL6DB5fsp5jxlN2u7gLqkhQv6-QwdyDSMpA_SYeyjGwjm_RLmEICeSKZvh6iQMcHfRSZSwcj8XR0OnCVrqyn2RPKyS40LcBjiuNYGc/s640/Rodellar+retur+2.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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<i>"Back in the boat"</i></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjXMlrfC8kBJ6D0GhRdpvhshvtW_t5dyHyvhN7JcRKC1EUHwwPk2h7W_oyFNF1ZPRVayy6bF2vRdkhcz1ZpWhOSq8GwBs8qHtz_TEvuoa3xsb-9dj7pBfYG2n5tjFg3aFwDpnEgRB2HA9U/s1600/Rodellar+retur.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjXMlrfC8kBJ6D0GhRdpvhshvtW_t5dyHyvhN7JcRKC1EUHwwPk2h7W_oyFNF1ZPRVayy6bF2vRdkhcz1ZpWhOSq8GwBs8qHtz_TEvuoa3xsb-9dj7pBfYG2n5tjFg3aFwDpnEgRB2HA9U/s640/Rodellar+retur.jpg" width="426" /></a></div>
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<i>"Scrambling around in one of the none boat friendly parts of the river"</i></div>
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I had a rest day before our trip to Rodellar, and when there everything tok longer then expected. I barely got time to do a warm up route before the sun hit the wall (30+ degrees) and I decided it was no point in even trying.<br />
Sunburned, tired from a long day and having worked on photos way into the night. I woke the next day completely wasted at 7 as Magnus was getting ready to leave.<br />
We got down to the cave at 9.30 but I had no energy and had to rest yet another day...<br />
Then today, after getting up at 5.15 and dropping my brother of in Lleida, we got to the cave at 9 just as the rain started. It got super humid and even though I was feeling completely rested and psyched to get back on the route, there was no point. Another rest day.. <br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhgKEnHSwL57N-UIAy3UZoCYMIYvjk0uWgrkuqdIOXrANApDlkio7vKzQp0JqiG7VLMBtZ3288q474n-bFP3w5DQD-iShAEmeQt63KyKREC6zLqdJoQOFT8AuRVPT_rcuDWDN6bf7wKNeI/s1600/Screen+Shot+2013-04-18+at+8.04.55+AM.png" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em; text-align: center;"><img border="0" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhgKEnHSwL57N-UIAy3UZoCYMIYvjk0uWgrkuqdIOXrANApDlkio7vKzQp0JqiG7VLMBtZ3288q474n-bFP3w5DQD-iShAEmeQt63KyKREC6zLqdJoQOFT8AuRVPT_rcuDWDN6bf7wKNeI/s640/Screen+Shot+2013-04-18+at+8.04.55+AM.png" width="640" /></a><br />
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<i>"The current weather rapport"</i></div>
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<span style="text-align: left;">.</span></div>
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With the end of the trip rapidly approaching and the project still not completed, resting 4 days in a row feels like a bit of a gamble, but with colder weather coming in the next two days, I hope it will pay off.</div>
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Wanghttp://www.blogger.com/profile/14840965362641239826noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5406441149653791722.post-90836844477752444112013-04-14T13:14:00.003-07:002013-04-14T13:14:37.594-07:00Project..<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
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I´m now nearing the end of my third climbing season here in Spain.</div>
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Having spent most of the last two seasons mainly in the Santa Linya cave, I had hoped to climb more in other areas this year. </div>
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That did of course not happen. A project came along and time just seemed to disappear.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjgS5ngSR0jiQuepeL7Up7oaDvegTGy6vi6PRAN3ZmSatN9o56WvoucOcL7xVK_XOU5GOe7Enfoyo_JBAmUxHmgsdEGuoz4aVNrYc3N56FnutqZajlYHr4A-oqnWdhxpPz6if3sdesZY7U/s1600/Project...+10.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em; text-align: center;"><img border="0" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjgS5ngSR0jiQuepeL7Up7oaDvegTGy6vi6PRAN3ZmSatN9o56WvoucOcL7xVK_XOU5GOe7Enfoyo_JBAmUxHmgsdEGuoz4aVNrYc3N56FnutqZajlYHr4A-oqnWdhxpPz6if3sdesZY7U/s400/Project...+10.jpg" width="400" /></a></div>
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<i>"Trying to rest in the flake jug on one of many link attempts"</i></div>
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I have spent most of my time in Spain working projects and redpointing, and yet it feels like the first time I´v been so motivated and dedicated to a route. <br />
Haunted by old injuries, the season started out a bit slower then I had hoped.<br />
Instead of getting on Fabelita (8c) straight away (like Hannah did last season), I spent the first months on less steep ground trying to finish off some of the 8b´s I failed to complete last year, trying the route only a few days here and there.<br />
<br />
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhtnE0Za98o-OLIeReqZry45a-_P41kZCRAt8TUU84hg9VYq3BhvjPDpz2mAEVPmyLKNGnKJf37Ea-P2HmbBXMyIS_gXeV1WBqVuztXsBZnYPQbjs3RPOMRE2HpWxFEzjfh0KhcRPnVUrQ/s1600/Project...+34.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em; text-align: center;"><br /></a>Then, at the start of March, I was feeling much better and finally free to put all my energy and focus into the route.<br />
In the beginning it felt really hard, a massive undertaking based on the shape I was in.<br />
I had trouble with the crux moves separately and my early link attempts where both short and desperate.<br />
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Ready to put in the hours and really work for it, I went up again and again and tried and tried until the links no longer seemed so impossible.<br />
First I managed to link through the crux traverse.<br />
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<i>"The second half of the crux traverse"</i></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjFEt2mOz_2Us4RwuS7J9wDykHGEhwOHY08Mac-mereBZqwypbK-cyj8bXK97jXgqWdhVQ_JC1lQ5dXC_p_BaBw33VhyXsgNehidgbre14MrlAZzogsQWC2a7uR3AKtdIF4nDWK8wQ0Fw4/s1600/Project...+4.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjFEt2mOz_2Us4RwuS7J9wDykHGEhwOHY08Mac-mereBZqwypbK-cyj8bXK97jXgqWdhVQ_JC1lQ5dXC_p_BaBw33VhyXsgNehidgbre14MrlAZzogsQWC2a7uR3AKtdIF4nDWK8wQ0Fw4/s400/Project...+4.jpg" width="400" /></a></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhvpyzB-ne4GcfN-SQeJvNaYQljNWmRk9jZ7IUFd89LyrTXqMM5KomIqrj5iDhLq1faWgPf04-XgYcTsKobquyuGjaJU4Wrxqtt3bjxLjMdZOtZBGR_wuh3ZpzPCcfpYErXvgzJzwhbzg0/s1600/Project...+5.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhvpyzB-ne4GcfN-SQeJvNaYQljNWmRk9jZ7IUFd89LyrTXqMM5KomIqrj5iDhLq1faWgPf04-XgYcTsKobquyuGjaJU4Wrxqtt3bjxLjMdZOtZBGR_wuh3ZpzPCcfpYErXvgzJzwhbzg0/s400/Project...+5.jpg" width="400" /></a></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiQZTT_nqhHtSOjOL-FbU2iIpJ2doY75nAVMHQZvqD2LO4HKdR_SdnYjYrY327U3J7AwLDHlP0RqzzQGz4IK8zgEkqexbxFbmKHkTM2baaAbJGby13XdZ9TbQkmIL58Nm9nPUN0n8umTFQ/s1600/Project...+6.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em; text-align: center;"><img border="0" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiQZTT_nqhHtSOjOL-FbU2iIpJ2doY75nAVMHQZvqD2LO4HKdR_SdnYjYrY327U3J7AwLDHlP0RqzzQGz4IK8zgEkqexbxFbmKHkTM2baaAbJGby13XdZ9TbQkmIL58Nm9nPUN0n8umTFQ/s400/Project...+6.jpg" width="400" /></a></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi_xixE0nCkWgupY2402ztXrlcXbTJuZxchifWChm2PKayM-1WQSBEAGpXf6U39-EJtgPJR0MczAETL8Pj2hHfIfpv3SIYrmpgSV-ZHKKJcIPfNphqHlLk3AZ5GVxn7pCmVm5l05j8jO78/s1600/Project...+7.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em; text-align: center;"><img border="0" height="266" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi_xixE0nCkWgupY2402ztXrlcXbTJuZxchifWChm2PKayM-1WQSBEAGpXf6U39-EJtgPJR0MczAETL8Pj2hHfIfpv3SIYrmpgSV-ZHKKJcIPfNphqHlLk3AZ5GVxn7pCmVm5l05j8jO78/s400/Project...+7.jpg" width="400" /></a></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg16aSHKqVH8KH1yDN-YWJ7GkavPeAR8yBJXBRUQ0UZVFg6_1x7_Y80C1i5lKiUU81k_gWHtMXQctKe9puL5Vs2MRSTN-9lh_hIuU2VFIo4wicYdd8b1l3azee15GmONkd4YOIP4izWBUk/s1600/Project...+9.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em; text-align: center;"><img border="0" height="266" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg16aSHKqVH8KH1yDN-YWJ7GkavPeAR8yBJXBRUQ0UZVFg6_1x7_Y80C1i5lKiUU81k_gWHtMXQctKe9puL5Vs2MRSTN-9lh_hIuU2VFIo4wicYdd8b1l3azee15GmONkd4YOIP4izWBUk/s400/Project...+9.jpg" width="400" /></a></div>
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<i><br /></i></div>
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<span style="text-align: left;">Then, after finally finding a good sequence, I made the link from the flake jug in the middle to the top. </span></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhak-9j8hJNDZr4KmdLz5gBHloalcGxD2bhYmDj-lA1uidPPn0uDAQogeFjRkj4stkTXTuvhyAuu0gQHrILuYlCaBteG0l2-fanXG_D1X3a3JTcyA7OprKcxz4P-vfSJOOmaHxB3pL_RQI/s1600/Project...+11.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em; text-align: center;"><img border="0" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhak-9j8hJNDZr4KmdLz5gBHloalcGxD2bhYmDj-lA1uidPPn0uDAQogeFjRkj4stkTXTuvhyAuu0gQHrILuYlCaBteG0l2-fanXG_D1X3a3JTcyA7OprKcxz4P-vfSJOOmaHxB3pL_RQI/s400/Project...+11.jpg" width="266" /></a></div>
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<i>"The flake jug after the traverse"</i></div>
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<i><br /></i></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhNe_Cb6L6XmlgNoMv-4URehTOOtPP7qN6UMXaGpuezymqoNgmulfhAQWtvGy_wPT43NaamluFaRyh1B5cYaPt-dUlfbaZrzYjCABv9QVd-L7dd3JW3yD6jyGR2u4Z-kGsG3PYD7THeamU/s1600/Project...+15.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em; text-align: center;"><img border="0" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhNe_Cb6L6XmlgNoMv-4URehTOOtPP7qN6UMXaGpuezymqoNgmulfhAQWtvGy_wPT43NaamluFaRyh1B5cYaPt-dUlfbaZrzYjCABv9QVd-L7dd3JW3yD6jyGR2u4Z-kGsG3PYD7THeamU/s400/Project...+15.jpg" width="400" /></a></div>
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<i>"The possible to miss awkward slot move"</i></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEggDHqCge7xlAOO_KFEVyTiVy_cbE7TvzDnDM1CNO-p3KMXY1fuGxutOFTf-JT76V_FKm7tLXkqSoDtQc2PPYEISHapwqZ8P2XuYeAjXNJDAmmJCvh0F_nvcEDEyCBN5KPOE_Y_NcMXsBc/s1600/Project...+29.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em; text-align: center;"><img border="0" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEggDHqCge7xlAOO_KFEVyTiVy_cbE7TvzDnDM1CNO-p3KMXY1fuGxutOFTf-JT76V_FKm7tLXkqSoDtQc2PPYEISHapwqZ8P2XuYeAjXNJDAmmJCvh0F_nvcEDEyCBN5KPOE_Y_NcMXsBc/s400/Project...+29.jpg" width="265" /></a></div>
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<i>"The upper dyno, a bit less random then the slot move, but hard if pumped"</i></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiYoTbG57vJN_ktspbO8FW7qzORZLx9_RXxquSzMbLGVNBQRSciLWE4kBmpcC02et9Ujj8v9jt05oyFIN_eQNCEQUhQ0yknoncWC8Z5qQvHWoR4UenVhL9J08qOe2N80cSGYpoPeSgy6-c/s1600/Project...+31.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em; text-align: center;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiYoTbG57vJN_ktspbO8FW7qzORZLx9_RXxquSzMbLGVNBQRSciLWE4kBmpcC02et9Ujj8v9jt05oyFIN_eQNCEQUhQ0yknoncWC8Z5qQvHWoR4UenVhL9J08qOe2N80cSGYpoPeSgy6-c/s320/Project...+31.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
<div style="text-align: center;">
<i>"The possible red point crux, a hard lock off from a slippy crimp to a pocket"</i></div>
<br />
Knowing I would need to get the beginning more wired and practice resting before the traverse, I started going from the ground. <br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi8CXNmlSjsEZvsKjeNMueS3CS3Rt3US_l4jM9Tob2GPk7W-7LRr9oGDnzXs_Qwt02vsgkghb5L49ZQPNBKNt8bzdRJP8bEo0jhd3oQOz0-gFhrLfDTaO4dMkNdMWa3Uxt-RfBzdwfQk9o/s1600/Project...+2.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em; text-align: center;"><img border="0" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi8CXNmlSjsEZvsKjeNMueS3CS3Rt3US_l4jM9Tob2GPk7W-7LRr9oGDnzXs_Qwt02vsgkghb5L49ZQPNBKNt8bzdRJP8bEo0jhd3oQOz0-gFhrLfDTaO4dMkNdMWa3Uxt-RfBzdwfQk9o/s400/Project...+2.jpg" width="265" /></a></div>
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<i>"The bouldery start 8a"</i></div>
<br />
On my initial attempts I spent almost 5 minutes trying to rest and then just barely made it into the traverse before running out of juice.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhQjQtFcz0Ze1YdRxS9ferTrilHFVAncumHo9Bx6naVdEFJQGYlvrpDJ3SR9RLNEiGwA-EUki2aAcj4_kS_AlEbRy_8uxnFa__OE1QGgnL0DUu8JlQUwRmuu0UlVkVLVM76Foqsc_NjrhA/s1600/Project...+3.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em; text-align: center;"><img border="0" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhQjQtFcz0Ze1YdRxS9ferTrilHFVAncumHo9Bx6naVdEFJQGYlvrpDJ3SR9RLNEiGwA-EUki2aAcj4_kS_AlEbRy_8uxnFa__OE1QGgnL0DUu8JlQUwRmuu0UlVkVLVM76Foqsc_NjrhA/s400/Project...+3.jpg" width="400" /></a></div>
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<i>"The upside down kneebar rest before the traverse"</i></div>
<br />
Realising I wasn´t really ready to go from the ground, I went back into work mode and spent a few days just linking on the traverse.<br />
After a rest day it felt much better and I returned to going from the ground.<br />
A few tries later I made a breakthrough and got to the very end of the traverse before the pump caught up with me and kicked me off.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg16aSHKqVH8KH1yDN-YWJ7GkavPeAR8yBJXBRUQ0UZVFg6_1x7_Y80C1i5lKiUU81k_gWHtMXQctKe9puL5Vs2MRSTN-9lh_hIuU2VFIo4wicYdd8b1l3azee15GmONkd4YOIP4izWBUk/s1600/Project...+9.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em; text-align: center;"><img border="0" height="266" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg16aSHKqVH8KH1yDN-YWJ7GkavPeAR8yBJXBRUQ0UZVFg6_1x7_Y80C1i5lKiUU81k_gWHtMXQctKe9puL5Vs2MRSTN-9lh_hIuU2VFIo4wicYdd8b1l3azee15GmONkd4YOIP4izWBUk/s400/Project...+9.jpg" width="400" /></a></div>
<div style="text-align: center;">
<i>"Highpoint"</i></div>
<br />
Feeling close and super motivated I then hit a wall.<br />
I started having negative progression and got more and more flappers and cuts from doing the same moves over and over.<br />
<br />
Climbing on the route turned increasingly painful to the point where I dreaded or couldn´t take several holds, and no matter what I did I was unable to get back to my highpoint.<br />
The traverse separately started feeling harder again up to the point I could barely do the crux moves starting from the bolt..<br />
<br />
Frustrated and mentally tired I tok 4 days off, climbing two days on other routes and two days just resting.<br />
Fortunately the short rest period helped a lot.<br />
<br />
The skin recovered reasonably well, and back on the route I felt stronger then ever, linking through the traverse separately with ease.<br />
Getting back to my highpoint still tok several attempts, but my head was back in the game.<br />
I was once more enjoying the climbing, and ready to try as many times as I needed.<br />
<br />
A few weeks ago I only had power for one good try, but I started trying twice anyway just for the training.<br />
Now I´m cruising to the end of the traverse in both tries, but no matter how much stronger I feel, once I get that last pocket my hand starts slipping.<br />
For some reason I can't seem to break through this barrier, and for the last 3 weeks now I´v fallen around this same spot.<br />
<br />
I can feel that I´v gotten much stronger.<br />
I´m able to do the link from the start of the traverse to the top without getting pumped.<br />
I only need to rest for 2,5 min not 4,5 min as I did a few weeks ago in the kneebar.<br />
I can chalk up in the shoulder and still get into the dropknee move at 90% power, and yet for some reason, I still fall..<br />
Good conditions, bad conditions, early or late in the day, it´s all the same, I get that pocket, move my feet over and just slip off.<br />
<br />
I´m not the only one hitting a wall however. While I´v been on Fabelita, Magnus has been on Neanderthal.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgNoTsJ6iax11Ycy5_irgmKF712TWGa5vYQUMPi0W1cR3WvioFXKKPuJbzvp-dG0kxofD2GOBcR2TlBY2PXiw3bbb5w0tKghGWHojt3s0gXi7tybrahvYRnvpp33P7ymywJ3myKgMyPglk/s1600/Neanderthal+Skitch.jpeg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em; text-align: center;"><img border="0" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgNoTsJ6iax11Ycy5_irgmKF712TWGa5vYQUMPi0W1cR3WvioFXKKPuJbzvp-dG0kxofD2GOBcR2TlBY2PXiw3bbb5w0tKghGWHojt3s0gXi7tybrahvYRnvpp33P7ymywJ3myKgMyPglk/s400/Neanderthal+Skitch.jpeg" width="400" /></a></div>
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<i>"A crude skitch of Neaderthal seen from one of my ropes"</i></div>
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<br /></div>
<br />
Where as I choose a route I knew stays dry, Magnus has had to suffer several holds on the route, including the only rest in the hard part, being wet up until now.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiY07P9cG4QZ834IY-bXvyzlF7dH4lq6Sm9xmZDyEFRiGGmnlLbDVt2HQrupv3fSXV2Ota9V_jCSs_T8b4Nlqx5GWXQDSOzuLVEz6vpJxoEF7WL5GkHvTeQNWWhb6WiXEyEMJ_AJI5pwoQ/s1600/Project...+45.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em; text-align: center;"><img border="0" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiY07P9cG4QZ834IY-bXvyzlF7dH4lq6Sm9xmZDyEFRiGGmnlLbDVt2HQrupv3fSXV2Ota9V_jCSs_T8b4Nlqx5GWXQDSOzuLVEz6vpJxoEF7WL5GkHvTeQNWWhb6WiXEyEMJ_AJI5pwoQ/s400/Project...+45.jpg" width="400" /></a></div>
<div style="text-align: center;">
<i>"Magnus taking a surprise fall suddenly slipping out of the wet rest" </i></div>
<br />
Still he has managed to get up and fall on the crux dyno 23 times, 7 or so with his hand all the way up on the hold.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjnohrXte0DcY2zQ3cc3WbgIFbrJEp5zJW5BWU6Zefbuku6HXfbqQav2hho_t4ydQD-HoWZMZOFa-T8RgfaRx1MCm8yEnS5kpviXt2leV8KwajMVUcLCL63nYt_qVTCi0wbU1Z-wn-z8-k/s1600/Project...+47.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em; text-align: center;"><img border="0" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjnohrXte0DcY2zQ3cc3WbgIFbrJEp5zJW5BWU6Zefbuku6HXfbqQav2hho_t4ydQD-HoWZMZOFa-T8RgfaRx1MCm8yEnS5kpviXt2leV8KwajMVUcLCL63nYt_qVTCi0wbU1Z-wn-z8-k/s400/Project...+47.jpg" width="400" /></a></div>
<div style="text-align: center;">
<i>"Logging some serious air time"</i></div>
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<i><br /></i></div>
<div style="text-align: justify;">
<span style="text-align: left;">From having to work hard to get up there (9a/+), he seems to get there without being pumped now, but as with me, getting stronger on the route hasn´t helped him break through the barrier.</span></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhGsxMOFNQ21zk0cdlUMwMggx5RYf5ZRbUamJKoatMMNAsxNrEMiRxahPzVXNrMWKKXFEWxbeHk-QTHqEOSca7SjH1O1BhCI14tLmt_hjPTd5Meiwqmf_MULdZZtuEbjQxaHUW99Pgso5o/s1600/Project...+46.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em; text-align: center;"><img border="0" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhGsxMOFNQ21zk0cdlUMwMggx5RYf5ZRbUamJKoatMMNAsxNrEMiRxahPzVXNrMWKKXFEWxbeHk-QTHqEOSca7SjH1O1BhCI14tLmt_hjPTd5Meiwqmf_MULdZZtuEbjQxaHUW99Pgso5o/s400/Project...+46.jpg" width="400" /></a></div>
<div style="text-align: center;">
<i>"Dyno x </i><i>23"</i></div>
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4 weeks ago Ragnhild also joined us here in what has come to be known as "Casa Wang". Psyched on projecting a 8a called Pegue Nocturno, she joined us hitting the wall just a few days into her trip.<br />
3,5 weeks and 3 tries per day later she is racking up a fairly high number of falls in the same spot to join the rest of us.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjptJp5DgGwGO7ivjQSevKhGoYmlU-JJR34B3Fyl5m9K93ePTKv-DqmJ_5VYqXOAdwj-Gzx8WlsgePNL8vPpCOe8smhGPnvtlY52H3UmMeYFk-TcppGFr5abcLPcZ-B1hv-PQ5-U7uo4po/s1600/Pegue+Skitch.jpeg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em; text-align: center;"><img border="0" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjptJp5DgGwGO7ivjQSevKhGoYmlU-JJR34B3Fyl5m9K93ePTKv-DqmJ_5VYqXOAdwj-Gzx8WlsgePNL8vPpCOe8smhGPnvtlY52H3UmMeYFk-TcppGFr5abcLPcZ-B1hv-PQ5-U7uo4po/s400/Pegue+Skitch.jpeg" width="400" /></a></div>
<div style="text-align: center;">
"<i>Ragnhild at the start of the crux on Pegue" </i></div>
<h4 style="text-align: left;">
So why do we do this to ourselves?</h4>
</div>
<div style="font-family: Noteworthy-Light; font-size: 15px; line-height: 22px; text-align: -webkit-auto;">
In the end I guess it comes down to what we find purpose in doing. </div>
<div style="font-family: Noteworthy-Light; font-size: 15px; line-height: 22px; text-align: -webkit-auto;">
On the one hand I would like to see more areas, climb on routes I can do reasonably fast and in general just enjoy climbing. </div>
<div style="font-family: Noteworthy-Light; font-size: 15px; line-height: 22px; text-align: -webkit-auto;">
On the other hand I want to really push myself, work hard and really invest time and effort in a route above my current level to see if I have what it takes. </div>
<div style="font-family: Noteworthy-Light; font-size: 15px; line-height: 22px; text-align: -webkit-auto;">
<br /></div>
<div style="font-family: Noteworthy-Light; font-size: 15px; line-height: 22px; text-align: -webkit-auto;">
The first option is definitely the easiest and in many ways probably the most enjoyable, so why choose the second?</div>
<div style="font-family: Noteworthy-Light; font-size: 15px; line-height: 22px; text-align: -webkit-auto;">
<br /></div>
<div style="font-family: Noteworthy-Light; font-size: 15px; line-height: 22px; text-align: -webkit-auto;">
When you climb a lot of "easy" routes it´s fun there and then, but after a while they (at least for me) just seem to blend together, vague memories of unexceptional days. </div>
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<br /></div>
<div style="font-family: Noteworthy-Light; font-size: 15px; line-height: 22px; text-align: -webkit-auto;">
If you choose the long and difficult road of the hard redpoint, somehow managing to fight through the doubt and all those hard days when it just feels impossible, then that is something you remember and take with you.</div>
<div style="font-family: Noteworthy-Light; font-size: 15px; line-height: 22px; text-align: -webkit-auto;">
<br /></div>
<div style="font-family: Noteworthy-Light; font-size: 15px; line-height: 22px; text-align: -webkit-auto;">
The first year my thoughts was too much on clipping the anchor and on what I would do after.</div>
<div style="font-family: Noteworthy-Light; font-size: 15px; line-height: 22px; text-align: -webkit-auto;">
This of course only got me depressed when it wasn´t going my way, draining my focus and motivation and ultimately causing me to fail. </div>
<div style="font-family: Noteworthy-Light; font-size: 15px; line-height: 22px; text-align: -webkit-auto;">
<br /></div>
<div style="font-family: Noteworthy-Light; font-size: 15px; line-height: 22px; text-align: -webkit-auto;">
Whit this negative mindset climbing ceased to be fun, and I spent more time being miserable then enjoying my time on the projects, eventually just hiding behind the camera or climbing on easy routes to get away from the challenge. </div>
<div style="font-family: Noteworthy-Light; font-size: 15px; line-height: 22px; text-align: -webkit-auto;">
It wasn´t before I read "The Rock Warriors Way" I understood what had happened and realised where I had failed.</div>
<div style="font-family: Noteworthy-Light; font-size: 15px; line-height: 22px; text-align: -webkit-auto;">
</div>
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To succeed in hard redpointing it´s not just the body that needs training but also the mind.<br />
It´s as much a question of controlling your focus and motivation as being physically strong.<br />
Every try requires 100% effort, your mind needs to be on the next move, not what if, maybe, should have, could have. <br />
Then, one day, with a bit of luck, it just happens. If not, there is always next year.<br />
After all, part of the challenge is not knowing if you will succeed. </div>
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Magnus is leaving the 20-th, Ragnhild and I the 22.<br />
A lot of time and effort is invested in our current projects, and we all feel very close. If it was just a question of patience and trying I know I would eventually succeed, but time is running out and the heat is really setting in.<br />
Will I make it? Will any of us make it??</div>
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Wanghttp://www.blogger.com/profile/14840965362641239826noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5406441149653791722.post-81102174143223339412013-03-19T11:27:00.001-07:002013-03-19T11:27:45.094-07:00The other side of the coin<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
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I mentioned in my last post that I´v spent the last three winters in Spain not just climbing, but also documenting, this for the most part through the video mode of my Canon 5D MarkII.</div>
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I do take a fair amount of photo´s as well, but I always loved the motion and creativity in videography over photography.<br />
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Some recently published photo´s.</div>
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<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: left; text-align: left;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"> <a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhJOFYvXa4LyxVi5TJE0rIseVmAa2mjPX-BzKuezNls9RumFV-URp_0HT4GfyQmc4llgI_aM19BOq5zYvxeTUGuhqLHxMdyh-__zCMtEV6SjnE2e_VBIslJls7I0U7jpqrshryK6dElCA8/s1600/522540_10150753983939812_559563944_n.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="font-family: Times; font-size: medium; line-height: normal; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhJOFYvXa4LyxVi5TJE0rIseVmAa2mjPX-BzKuezNls9RumFV-URp_0HT4GfyQmc4llgI_aM19BOq5zYvxeTUGuhqLHxMdyh-__zCMtEV6SjnE2e_VBIslJls7I0U7jpqrshryK6dElCA8/s320/522540_10150753983939812_559563944_n.jpg" width="253" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i><span style="font-size: x-small;"> Klatring magazine - f</span></i><i><span style="font-size: x-small;">ront page</span></i></td></tr>
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<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"> <a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjR215tOzY5okvBuCJE-SPU0yunXqMxrJe136prtHCnY5VUw2vcQZVp0TnScqGMMMCn93RNpJByiG7fb1vM0A4CEZCOuE3tc1JzDnBv8Nz7rY5J2yGgnf5G5QqlEiMNQYLs92CF9IePin0/s1600/531649_10151464667039812_176642162_n-1.png" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="242" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjR215tOzY5okvBuCJE-SPU0yunXqMxrJe136prtHCnY5VUw2vcQZVp0TnScqGMMMCn93RNpJByiG7fb1vM0A4CEZCOuE3tc1JzDnBv8Nz7rY5J2yGgnf5G5QqlEiMNQYLs92CF9IePin0/s320/531649_10151464667039812_176642162_n-1.png" width="352" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i> Finansavisen - sport section (The photo down left is not mine)</i></td></tr>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhI5v8LRsoNVqyKsCK55Yybx-iNJdJyZxshjA_Z2PRW-2iB6yz3-AyOJ6PsrBaQDSuf3pFkKZJmnYaMZ9zJxERB58MSCWakdPC9nryrfqI1lhyphenhyphenaBPjFczbYFUwzxBrW2Xu7Z2H1-XsLu_g/s1600/665086_10151262123949812_328167858_o.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="font-family: Times; font-size: medium; line-height: normal; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><img border="0" height="388" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhI5v8LRsoNVqyKsCK55Yybx-iNJdJyZxshjA_Z2PRW-2iB6yz3-AyOJ6PsrBaQDSuf3pFkKZJmnYaMZ9zJxERB58MSCWakdPC9nryrfqI1lhyphenhyphenaBPjFczbYFUwzxBrW2Xu7Z2H1-XsLu_g/s640/665086_10151262123949812_328167858_o.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i>BA - sport section</i></td></tr>
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I´d been climbing for about a year when I began the work on my first (at the time) big film project "The Nordfjord Way".<br />
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The Nordfjord Way, basically an insider film made for the people I went to school with, is more about climbing on buildings then rock.<br />
Mixed together with some pretty basic editing, it is my first child so to speak, and for all it´s flaws I can´t help feeling a sense of pride and accomplishment when ever I see it.<br />
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Making it was also one of those great learning experiences, one that in many ways opened my eyes for the possibilities of video.</div>
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After that I made some shorter films (some of which can be found on the right side of this blog ------>), but my real efforts went into 3 major projects much bigger in scale then The Nordfjord Way, projects that I´m truly sad to say never saw the light of day... </div>
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Overwhelmed by the share amount of raw footage, computer issues, studies and a whole bunch of other reasons, I never managed to finish any of them. </div>
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Unedited and outdated both as video quality and public interest goes, they can now be found as either DV tapes stored in boxes somewhere up on Ole´s loft in Sogndal or in the digital world of hard drives, also in some boxes up on Ole´s loft in Sogndal. A constant personal reminder of my failure to finish what I started..</div>
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My biggest project to date (by far) is my current 3 seasons in Spain project, now under the working title "The Santa Linya Collective".</div>
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Much like my previous failed projects, I had no plan when I started shooting. So now, after almost three seasons, I´m looking at an enormous amount of random raw footage and the somewhat daunting task (to say the least) of trying to edit it together to something interesting.</div>
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Unlike before however, I now have both the time, the hardware and the relative skill to make this happen. (Although I´d appreciate all the help and insight I can get!) </div>
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Having spent so much of both my own time and effort and that of others (Hannah´s especially), not to mention getting injured from too much jumaring while gathering this footage, I´m more determined then ever to see this one through. It would really be a terrible waste if it all had been for nothing..</div>
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On that bright and positive note I am therefor very happy to give you the first teaser to the upcoming film!</div>
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Wanghttp://www.blogger.com/profile/14840965362641239826noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5406441149653791722.post-44968643644615924232013-03-17T07:51:00.000-07:002013-03-17T07:51:51.544-07:00Spain 3.0<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
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At the end of november (2012) I returned to Santa Linya for my third consecutive climbing season. </div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi7pnlUICaZhiznOzZM5ttPNWAK93Bl1VvAlRXepEbj-s8nGJ1eptYJgErjT-sWtmZkxcG_3LqtohMtBeiiJbSR7MbksMTiKWyXl9ENi8zxGeYLqgEYkwe5ro6w_32z55o4ID7S9QOZa4Y/s1600/Landsby%C2%B4n+natt.jpg" imageanchor="1"><img src="cid:9877DCDF-95D5-4DE7-9F5D-8A042A9BBBF2@Home" /></a></div>
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<i>"My Spanish home, the tiny village of Santa Linya"</i></div>
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My previous seasons here have not been to success full as personal achievements go (at least not from my point of view), but this year I finally feel like I´m getting somewhere. </div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiYdcnsF9y0Y3X-4dODAQX5nvQcABXQl04DoNAIRTMdorK7OOMfVO5cZEQBRRlSdOgFx0XwRd3g9IIZ9V9lJaibB8QCox9flk9ZEBDixzSQenOeOl3pNrFS6jpwK8PxjgkupC0bx39zMu0/s1600/582239_200076880131838_1695003988_n.jpg" imageanchor="1"><img height="426" src="cid:69D16643-497C-4373-8CF1-FB55DC76BCAA@Home" width="640" /></a></div>
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<i> "Trying out the moves on Ingravids Eskerpes (8b+/8c)" (Foto: Manabu Yoneyama)</i></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi5Tx20ypMcYfWc8t__3MpBiJMvg9xrCzGu4oxmVviAjGfqrgzw6HMnpzkuS1CfJBB3MnUIyMetHGBciicWyCUQVLr1P-9ih4MUpGE3bXGnEDMJFJ07CiYUzdSCF6i1mGydR9UfRk2IxBo/s1600/525502_223243751148484_651115023_n.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img height="426" src="cid:ED38EFC5-9312-461A-A961-9A3877DEB321@Home" width="640" /></a></div>
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<i>"Working the link on the upper half of Fabelita 8c" </i><i>(Foto: Manabu Yoneyama)</i></div>
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Over the last two seasons my motivation has been a bit erratic. The mental game of redpointing has beaten me more times then I care to count and when the motivation was there I ended up getting injuries in both biceps and the left shoulder, forcing me to take it easy.. </div>
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If that was not enough I´v also been driven towards constantly documenting the efforts of others, straining my already suffering biceps with too much jumaring in addition to sacrificing a lot of my energy and climbing time.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEghsXp1sQnqcGm0Bsq0YRMO01_8TtLHFG-__MpKHfy6Wj7oo_x6jZSY_eQQDil_42nSJj2MhrdaChZ70exmk_exZmpRg4FnPLFQiPU593dPtrYtmnvbFz4_9Tfam4eqoa-8KOcLnimRQeY/s1600/393164_200076983465161_23565089_n.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img height="426" src="cid:066DB35D-088A-467E-9A0D-FAEDD3329C03@Home" width="640" /></a></div>
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<i> "Jumaring" (Foto: Manabu Yoneyama)</i></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjnWHkRKEVYXr0Xw8gVaYzoK8ARQ6g8NOSPWBbFEaApI8D27RSPcFyu9RJIYTHz8RlhXt3vaIyBu-1Y61j9RHmZ3RzymsMF0oIQokdfN8-ZPZECyKLkFfYCxyQ7UPR27sSZ0z2KvidAW6U/s1600/541875_191125117693681_2137776395_n.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img height="426" src="cid:1747C4CB-10A4-4E6F-A7B0-9F940B336E92@Home" width="640" /></a></div>
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<i> "Filming" </i><i>(Foto: Manabu Yoneyama)</i></div>
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This season started out much in the same way. We got down here, I was psyched, started training in the cave, my biceps injury flared up and I was once again forced to take it easy. </div>
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Unwilling to accept this failure again however, I changed my previous approach. </div>
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Last year my response was to take a long break and climb very easy, this year I kept climbing. As long as I warmed up enough, stayed away from the steepest stuff and limited my attempts, my injuries seems to stay dormant, however always present. </div>
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Afraid to push it too hard to soon I put my 8c ambitions a bit on hold, instead spending my time finishing off some of the 8b´s I failed to complete last year. </div>
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(As usual I have no pictures of myself on these routes, so here is some I´v taken of others..)</div>
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<b><span style="font-size: large;">La Ruta del Sol 8b</span></b></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhCRDYKdkNK3KL-U_iYCEzlzRn9VbbmYcnAGbmawGsjysuvuPhyphenhyphenNtf5kPikj8SsNaobUe3bfjZ5rXud32MTqjSRtcvZWUJbHOOZheiVgRCCE7pFf5GDRI7SgPSsCI-UBD9QiRBgqZjmVUc/s1600/Ruta+del+Sol,+Jakob.jpg" imageanchor="1"><img height="640" src="cid:43EE96C2-0284-44B9-922F-3FB00B02C0BB@Home" width="426" /></a></div>
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<i>"Jakob on the first crux"</i></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhXCCrfcnopNwXNRr1Jd8UPmoOvxnoUOcki9Z30aZ4aHohJ6Ndt5qgoA3nW-NClhBmPMISLatBMb-AqSqHXGe262Vil_ZF0xAKpwhM4ysvJd6a7sOevQswaZv9wtG6TS32A4yaVYwwCMxc/s1600/Ruta+del+Sol,+Colette.jpg" imageanchor="1"><img height="640" src="cid:516D4052-1214-4415-93B2-B8C38193AD2A@Home" width="426" /></a></div>
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<i>"Colette on the final crux"</i></div>
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<b><span style="font-size: large;">Pegue Nocturno Extension 8b/+</span></b></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEghXMZR9TPHBIEAg6ZzsxPjYMt58DlAf0Qy1e4DQMYctxVk0CAL2IdvXNMs6c5swCytrRCaPYrUWg8ZA_JE_6OkWeZm1tpDU7ZMOdv2JWm3SJLgND__c5Siufd9co6wYiY3yeJDJiafaOQ/s1600/Pegue+Nocturno,+Christian.jpg" imageanchor="1"><img height="428" src="cid:44229441-20F6-4548-A288-42454BF09AB1@Home" width="640" /></a></div>
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<i>"Christian on the extension crux" </i></div>
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<i>"Christian on the final hard section at the very top"</i></div>
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My obsession with documenting is still present, but this time more or less worked into my own climbing routines, no longer holding me back so much from my own climbing. </div>
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<i> "The energy saving ground-shot" </i><i>(Foto: Manabu Yoneyama)</i></div>
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Achievement wise I´v been more or less a season behind Hannah. The first year she broke the 8b barrier, I got close, but ultimately failed. </div>
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The next year I came better prepared and managed to get down a few 8b´s while she tok a big steep up and progressed to 8c´s. This year she pushed it even further, taking a position as one of the worlds top female climbers with the accent of Novena Puerta, 8c+. A bit more outside the spotlight I´m trying to follow up with 8c.</div>
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<i>"Hannah finishing off her ultimate project, Novena Puerta 8c+"</i></div>
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As I´v been suffering from these annoying injuries I guess you can say I´m at least a few months behind schedule if I was to match Hannah´s tick list from last year. I don´t really care too much about that thought and I will be happy to do just the one 8c, Fabelita.</div>
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<i>"The line of Fabelita"</i></div>
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Fabelita was Hannah´s first 8c last year and it´s the obvious choice for me this year. It´s not the easiest 8c around, but definitely one of, if not THE best, 8c in the cave. </div>
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It also has the advantage of rarely getting wet and then drying up quickly, something that counts for quite a lot with all the rain of late. </div>
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The climbing can be described as physical and bouldery sections separated by fairly good rests. </div>
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First there is a short 8a up to a reasonably good kneebar. This is followed by the crux traverse, a 7A+ boulder perhaps, up to a big flake jug around halfway up the wall. From there it´s another bouldery 8a to the top. </div>
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Separately none of the moves are very hard, but it´s steep and the moves are (for me) either big and dynamic or delicate and technical, just staying on the wall requires a lot of focus and body tension. </div>
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When linking on the lower 3/4 of the route I rarely fall because I get pumped, it´s more that I slightly miss or suddenly run out of juice and can´t pull hard enough to reach the next hold. </div>
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The final 1/4 of the route is where the pump really set in. It´s less steep but I am just tired when I get there. The last 6 meters is probably no more then 7b on it´s own, but I know several people that has fallen at the very end. </div>
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If I finally get up there I really wish I get lucky and don´t have to suffer that faith. </div>
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As it is now, it feels like it all comes down to being able to recover enough at the resting points and then a good portion of luck in the upper half. </div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjvaR2UfZfoics6HyaBYjgsFWyjvWl6LAB_0877jOVmnlqQ4VwvqD4hpYrHH5r2I_wNwGuQ9ZfoDTg-zSadfyDGAGlMUFNTEuxMFtD1bCUD2I0LSzKOdc-J3bVsl-h3mcRSLZo1QUdBNE4/s1600/Fabelita,+Pablo.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img height="428" src="cid:5CAA7021-C4AE-48C1-8BBD-70093B8AD110@Home" width="640" /></a></div>
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<i>"Pablo entering the crux traverse"</i></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjSAs35X_bBsPd9TmNdV5u8pmS3uE_jqhQYKpyhpVG_w8asLJrRG_EQsOusRuZFQqEXBSLhZ6C0EUSfPn1o35gZWe2Pi4KaJv8YvLJsnf-8_ejGcldqdQkVjpr7n6rsUFK6UzNiMapjEnc/s1600/Fabelita,+Sindre.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img height="428" src="cid:D3523BE7-92E8-415C-817E-E73D44EB8FD0@Home" width="640" /></a></div>
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<i>"Sindre at the "crux" of the crux traverse"</i></div>
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<i> "Me on the classic mono move in the upper half" </i><i>(Foto: Manabu Yoneyama)</i><i> </i></div>
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I´v done quite a bit of work on the moves and made good link´s, but so far I´v only had two proper attempts from the ground. </div>
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My highpoint is just past the shoulder move in the middle of the traverse, but I felt strong when I got there and falling off was more do to with freezing conditions and no feeling in my fingers then anything else. </div>
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After my two attempts my biceps got all cranky again so I find myself forced to back off a bit again. With rain coming in today/monday it might be a while before I get another shot...</div>
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I will post more progress rapports, random pictures, short films and stories in the upcoming weeks so stay tuned.</div>
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Wanghttp://www.blogger.com/profile/14840965362641239826noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5406441149653791722.post-36214801334619572402013-01-24T06:24:00.000-08:002013-01-24T06:24:39.991-08:00DM 2012 - Behind the Scenes!<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
<span style="font-family: Noteworthy-Light; font-size: 15px; line-height: 22px; text-align: -webkit-auto;">From Kalymnos, I went directly to Bodø (in northern Norway) to set problems for the Norwegian national bouldering cup.</span><br />
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At the time of packing, I did for some reason not think any further then Kalymnos, and thus left my down jacket in Sogndal. </div>
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Now, finding myself going from 30+ degrees to less then 3 with nothing but a sweater, this lack of foresight was coming back to haunt me..</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh7-Vo4AESY8_cl5TiuDFD3-MxGxCEgeWdil6v2fTQv1_bIppiVQeo0lmo8iWx1ZuXwp_hP3phlgrHalk3xsobzffupqms6fkhXYV71gWoTQxzSjRh2Aocqw2yDSUDK9I6ZaUjKXH-1DzE/s1600/Bod%C3%B8.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="426" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh7-Vo4AESY8_cl5TiuDFD3-MxGxCEgeWdil6v2fTQv1_bIppiVQeo0lmo8iWx1ZuXwp_hP3phlgrHalk3xsobzffupqms6fkhXYV71gWoTQxzSjRh2Aocqw2yDSUDK9I6ZaUjKXH-1DzE/s640/Bod%C3%B8.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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<i>"The old slaughter house, now turned bouldering gym in Bodø, whit a great mountain/fjord view" </i></div>
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I could write on and on about constantly missing the bus, freezing my ass off and so on, but I won´t.</div>
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Bodø was a "fun" experience, if fun can be used to describe constantly working...</div>
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Not only did I do the route setting (with Hannah), but for the first time I also worked as a commentator on the live streaming, something that lead me to getting the job commentating on the national championships later on, but I digress.. </div>
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<i>"</i><i>Jan Erik testing one of the junior finals, here seen</i><i> from the commentator box" </i></div>
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Completely wasted I also had a film show in the evening after the comp, here I undoubtedly made little sense, but luckily for me it requires little effort to press play when you can´t think of anything to say. </div>
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But enough with the intro...</div>
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During one of our days working in Bodø, a call came in from a man in need in Denmark. </div>
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With barely a week to go, the French routesetting team booked for the Danish bouldering championships had canceled, leaving the man, Nico, to find a new team on very short notice.</div>
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Since I had no other plans, I accepted and that is how I one week later found myself in the climbing gym in Århus. </div>
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To join me, Nico had gotten the "danish" swede Kalle and the actual dane Casper. </div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjnw2_H6SV5k8OBylwb1d33TLqwKQ9gjWru88tBu_V7KmqO9PPkRDfqw580Y8fo07gqVPABYwBx4GHtOrjHgKLEdH7R16u2Ribua120Qu6AQmCIyeLYpFbP57jFR4J7r8J0x9R8SrN9LmQ/s1600/DM+-+ruteskru+8.jpg" imageanchor="1"><img height="640" src="cid:7ED7F9AE-733C-497C-B42F-B9D57B59ABAE" width="426" /></a></div>
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<i>"The two skinny looking barbarians, Kalle and Casper"</i></div>
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Kalle had set for several big comps in Scandinavia and Denmark before, but having favoured school (and golf!) the last 6 six months, was a bit off his game.</div>
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Casper, setting boulders on a daily basis at Copenhagen boulders, was perhaps lacking experience setting for big comps, but straight out of Font, definitely had his game face on.</div>
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I had never before worked as a routesetter outside Norway, yet the responsibility of being head route-setter (with no extra pay..) was still for some reason trusted upon me. </div>
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This probably because I was unknown in Denmark and the easiest to blame in the event of complete failure, but I prefer to think it was... hmm... I´v got nothing...</div>
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Setting for a comp usually means a ridiculous amount of hours in a short amount of time. Since the pay usually isn´t very good, the chemistry of the route-setting team decides if it´s something worth doing or not.</div>
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Not knowing who Nico would hook me up with, taking this job was therefor a bit of a gamble. </div>
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Luckily for me, Casper and Kalle turned out to be two of the coolest dude´s ever, our chemistry great and hanging out with them a blast from beginning to end.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh-ymuAmbb4xWgVPmWnHaqnpS3YdcTr9YsK8Ki8RC0WNEAXW3fRKuQVgsAylIAnxexIH8Zn1_RMK9TAUj5HN2FLx21CzT4r9_qhu3JC1LT2Fivnxl0V2Y5g2UqvwVripG1tODa4drncyuA/s1600/DM+-+ruteskru+9.jpg" imageanchor="1"><img height="426" src="cid:56CA2401-9302-4C1A-AAF9-A6842919CD79" width="640" /></a></div>
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<i>"The barbarians of Scandinavia united at last" </i></div>
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I could write on about all sorts of weird shit that happened during this week, but I´ll leave it with a couple of pictures and of course the much anticipated film I haven´t actually told people I was making.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgu3-eytTCq-6s-OF5orIpu_T863E9A4UWnKdGW7RadBdNYQ93u-hSYLucx3Zjn_AOJLjSj1OGAMdJpifWjJV05rQKdx17iP0WRaZmTOTS6RS4b3HSp7Af0-7EH_Ae9vHDwAePZYSoar7E/s1600/DM+-+ruteskru+1.jpg" imageanchor="1"><img height="640" src="cid:D7F19428-E2EC-4875-9A11-A36C1AD61590" width="426" /></a></div>
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<i>"Kalle checks out the alien lamp at the city hippie sleep-in" </i></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEghBN4EodtUUG3PZvdDocpIr7T6HhD86OTo_9uISgtKu8ASGXvrhDHfh3NPjTU95vE9QkqoFxeq9CQxLTEX7DvDjcV991EDK113I8c5aKIjyMTULOMKXli1TXekr8quqbAlFfKg_NFAM0o/s1600/DM+-+ruteskru+15.jpg" imageanchor="1"><img height="426" src="cid:E1395BC3-82A2-411B-B166-4B8A2040F1E1" width="640" /></a></div>
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<i>"Casper, in lack of any other choice, goes for the organic breakfast after his 2,5 hours sleep" </i></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg547tZ7QNx0Nl1fcK5KKUNTLF1B2dbrZXX4y-tgVI9R7MfBrSrELbcnegLFjLp3CzEmsggN_1Xqu80RMVQQC8AEfea9nJr39AgM5o54fMgVVrvymuQZzhTSB7oPCkTseQX04WqeNlFqog/s1600/DM+-+ruteskru+2.jpg" imageanchor="1"><img height="426" src="cid:A0095CC8-C006-467E-BB92-874903EAA64F" width="640" /></a></div>
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<i>"Casper checks out the potentially good looking lifeguard in the next door swimming pool" </i></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjPK30W3jRliRjzh85PDniysmoIYJC5IXlnZcZ0vzHC_RNQk3KprUltiTucqWBQ07llGETWqMos3uOrPe1Ty8hf9_sHjgrx5HOnRmnBiCvTgjCZEXuDoRCrxNrLJmz6P15Kv7n6BFGmY78/s1600/DM+-+ruteskru+4.jpg" imageanchor="1"><img height="640" src="cid:7500C10F-4D82-4291-9C78-00F431968762" width="426" /></a></div>
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<i>"Kalle makes the macro leap"</i></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi2W8K3BSgYcl2tLAwZV7QlOwKZfra4wyzyI4JIfrr_sQNcBzVQ3ksc9bKgyMCF5UB8LFJqFOMMZHO0E4EQKqLP6IZnb2T29JPwFzDR36J3I-dtJ6t1T5uueblZPAvmHM48y0AmDqOiatk/s1600/DM+-+ruteskru+6.jpg" imageanchor="1"><img height="640" src="cid:A7880661-5C10-4DBF-9D94-2064107E2CBB" width="426" /></a></div>
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<i>"Our great assistant Anders, here testing one of the mens finals"</i></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgvprr6zX_fv8fvEiuNu8KOrun06h2fd-MeIecivxCJI6YJMtqtww78TygnQ9i7ivTKvYCQ09Z9p0ETSUUMrd8KI-omXxvycPM_TyfInRiHG7tg0_uzoZMM5rqrnbN1h925XBlE4DfRA5Y/s1600/DM+-+ruteskru+10.jpg" imageanchor="1"><img height="426" src="cid:9E60CAE1-139B-474B-B6C2-887DE7F41579" width="640" /></a></div>
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<i>"Our second assistant Jeppe, finally finding us a bus after leading us the wrong way for ages.." </i></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgMEDP5mjX8FzTm4O9H4TILn6EMrTL4b1gbuW5O-e6Vt9SbfNKx3d7BS-sQd9jlmbt9EnmR-oKBnK1Y0hlpjdcQ4KmSpyVtRW9sDeIhNhnaFqQur2OsI3nCdRkYJNAYQaYsm6T3Nsrekrg/s1600/DM+-+ruteskru+11.jpg" imageanchor="1"><img height="426" src="cid:A97DFBB5-C7C0-4156-B52D-EFE5B57FA2F1" width="640" /></a></div>
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<i>"Casper introduces Kalle´s face to his nice sweaty palm"</i></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgqIhVwkVG0sKCGf8SPzmdyaHxsFfz2a3UFAJ7FG3OKdD38wE1RM19UM74qhwIHugjWKWjWBwwpM3U_ZjfpjXhgS4yrHnHYIIIbk9oP1W1k-9sr5KR2N6qlROVOdd-nkrSWO0KJRSA1qsg/s1600/DM+-+ruteskru+14.jpg" imageanchor="1"><img height="426" src="cid:2B1F8324-65CB-4D05-B391-DB456CC3CED8" width="640" /></a></div>
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<i>"Denmark's best workplace, McDonald´s?" </i></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgNBi_D5jaX_IwugXFHuva-REaL5RrpwUXO9tMob1YOBKMvVa129sCggMfljQW3g0yV1S_-7dzHap0Fi4Xbmz68vnSmvoMf4v929F_-PJbkBnI16LjPnZDMyREkrFv32Nir0BoPDZkhoWA/s1600/DM+-+ruteskru+13.jpg" imageanchor="1"><img height="640" src="cid:79D64E4F-9994-4E8A-AB1A-38582E40EDD5" width="426" /></a></div>
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<i>"Starving from yet another day on beer and cashew nuts, Kalle is devastated to find the McDonald´s closed for the night.." </i></div>
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<i><br /></i></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhtrqHVkDPtNRRJqbUYwgKT3bSszEzR7ndtj0EYcP4YW8GazZcWRjBVEzJe6WDHEpY7zSZXiGUP6I5ItQ9SGNCdm2olZGaWdq-NvPdvpSZOcL8KxCTZDPbbld4-XpKA_eV1WjpjpZzcC90/s1600/DM+-+ruteskru+5.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em; text-align: center;"><img height="426" src="cid:EBBA298B-E0AB-4FF9-BC1E-288E48E358EC" width="640" /></a></div>
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<i style="text-align: -webkit-auto;">"The complexity of 100+ boulder stations getting the best of Kalle"</i></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi0SaqjUgCbLBnruRv2JvEl6Y_sUldOTXkpm7mMdBlHoTjJEvYkFdQbE4a19iJp9Kg6u5z6l_XHKlXqDBYLVmnEqYjq73VcDnfaDh29dLcUvkQRy_790nPOvT-K_zLkpAV15djc2lPjUYE/s1600/DM+-+ruteskru+3.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img height="426" src="cid:0A01D6BB-E1DA-4595-8603-B22C49228299" width="640" /></a></div>
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<i>"Kalle putting on strong pose, here in front of the "Macromania" boulder"</i></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiR-7M4tTD3NYjGJhU6mqLnXnjkAg7AbPNR4kp43ZJAq_DDRUTfWkxyL2pC0Rnd4CE88reb8ovRxHDQNwXxgAEn3rpNsLoJktKwzuMhjgiMVWxktyLAt3fYT9ulKv8ziPnCaXbxbTPEjoo/s1600/DM+-+ruteskru+17.jpg" imageanchor="1"><img height="640" src="cid:9862CBB4-1170-4AE1-8DC5-F6D17603D33B" width="426" /></a></div>
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<i>"Casper, possibly trying out for the Derelict champaign, working his "le Tigre" on the easy Svæ" </i></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjNrSc9N1RNVxp4ufq2G5xLFkOJS9mhMRYmkvPhBzmqaaWRYJYhjOcwiApOoZqS_NGowwSCWZxsVw0KPRZQARGSWCSd9Y0Lz_kXJ6_63blrL7SZQtm21FlrYhZzV-n32UFR5kqNHa1Ybyw/s1600/DM+-+ruteskru+16.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em; text-align: center;"><img height="640" src="cid:10739337-DB95-42D2-AC90-23BFF663EE63" width="426" /></a></div>
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<i><span style="font-family: Noteworthy-Light;"><span style="font-size: 15px; line-height: 22px;">"Magnum</span></span></i><i style="font-family: Noteworthy-Light; font-size: 15px; line-height: 22px;">" </i></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjymCMrP1XFOV-22DGFAYUXNzlOLO82bcBPWdzFCvskNoYCAX_voMo4FbC6TXPZFoxF7tRt-lYa3MrbJTLpTWu8iiJUghULxzYvNK-mbjHtdiDeyCXfTL_6o-BSp7Df_c71yzqnrJOAzkI/s1600/DM+-+ruteskru+19.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em; text-align: center;"><img height="640" src="cid:8181556B-0FF0-4B90-B946-5D1F702C7746" width="426" /></a></div>
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<i style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: Noteworthy-Light;">"Sweden and Denmark joining forces for one last great pose-down" </span></i></div>
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<span style="font-size: large;">And finally, the film with a capital THE!</span></div>
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<span style="font-size: large;">DM 2012 seen from a routesetters perspective.</span></div>
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<param name="allowfullscreen" value="true" /><param name="allowscriptaccess" value="always" /><param name="movie" value="http://vimeo.com/moogaloop.swf?clip_id=58097728&server=vimeo.com&show_title=1&show_byline=1&show_portrait=0&color=&fullscreen=1" /><embed allowfullscreen="true" allowscriptaccess="always" height="426" src="http://vimeo.com/moogaloop.swf?clip_id=58097728&server=vimeo.com&show_title=1&show_byline=1&show_portrait=0&color=&fullscreen=1" type="application/x-shockwave-flash" width="640"></embed></div>
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<span style="font-size: large;">Or watch it @: <a href="https://vimeo.com/58097728">https://vimeo.com/58097728</a></span></div>
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Now THE film might paint a picture of us failing with the juniors, but as there where 6 different classes I will not say our failure was complete, more like 33%...</div>
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The seniors went much better, that is if I choose to ignore that the women´s finals didn´t see too many tops, which I of course do:D</div>
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Since I was half asleep in the senior semi´s, I only filmed a couple of my own boulders, there where however many more really cool problems set by Casper and Kalle that never made it into this film. </div>
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On a more "serious" note. I would like to say thanks to Nico for doing the work even further behind the scenes and just getting us all together.</div>
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I would also like to thank our great helper Anders who showed up almost every day to do the "dirty" work without getting payed!</div>
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And last but not least the Danish climbing community for showing up and making all our work worth while. </div>
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Wanghttp://www.blogger.com/profile/14840965362641239826noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5406441149653791722.post-54379051915879098222013-01-18T06:30:00.000-08:002013-01-18T06:34:30.816-08:00Kalymnos!<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
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Usually when I go on climbing trips I go somewhere good conditions can be found.</div>
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This years Kalymnos trip was different. Tobias was turning 30 and he had chosen Kalymnos at the start of october as the site for his celebration.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjcATcENAbOtiA9Uv62GcfU908jg0Aw0MBr-6gxEnj6cHMXxm34-PA1ozl-vZEI9Nl-gUs8pi6KheHkhvZHTc7i5guL0XVA40Oddq8LbkkuzuH-yLiUFDiExZNqiaThdoVnbN7X81BLJ50/s1600/Kalymnos+104.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="font-family: Times; font-size: medium; line-height: normal; margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em; text-align: center;"><img border="0" height="426" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjcATcENAbOtiA9Uv62GcfU908jg0Aw0MBr-6gxEnj6cHMXxm34-PA1ozl-vZEI9Nl-gUs8pi6KheHkhvZHTc7i5guL0XVA40Oddq8LbkkuzuH-yLiUFDiExZNqiaThdoVnbN7X81BLJ50/s320/Kalymnos+104.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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<i>"Random shot of some of the Kalymnian crags"</i></div>
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Bored with constant rain and indoor climbing I decided to go a bit early.</div>
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This brought me to Greece around the 20-th of September when it´s still way to hot for my comfort.</div>
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On top of that it was an unusually warm year, the temps between 25-35 degrees in the shade and of course the wind mostly absent. </div>
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<span style="text-align: left;"> </span><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhcNCS_0Gww4n-S3GVIcabeh7pBR7pXdH5gEwvPw7DkLV1furzZmLOdevYTPegI6-APiweMckoyFgiTczXS5jv60wFkJQXUlqzb0Y-MVViIsmANdOi83yTRod1KUBDmNAE31eGEstX4jBs/s1600/Kalymnos+1.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="426" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhcNCS_0Gww4n-S3GVIcabeh7pBR7pXdH5gEwvPw7DkLV1furzZmLOdevYTPegI6-APiweMckoyFgiTczXS5jv60wFkJQXUlqzb0Y-MVViIsmANdOi83yTRod1KUBDmNAE31eGEstX4jBs/s320/Kalymnos+1.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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<i>"Still 20+ degrees at sunset" </i></div>
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The first week or so I climbed with Jarle Haugan and Christer Marqvardsen Amundsen. As I found myself struggling on the warm ups, I ended up spending just as much time in the bar and at the beach as the crag, resulting in a great tan and a short tick list.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiyxpBv2HpXEHujSSrjCLAmKQSMbGeA0BR4KGgVXysUpwcXAvvX4zFQ14WW0vMLdT75joz896h7364clCds-dyLod2GtT06BWgfqG9IfIgCy7XfpwDt40xQXsVbdD6yhmeEa9Co5H6y1ZA/s1600/Kalymnos+4.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="font-family: Times; font-size: medium; line-height: normal; margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em; text-align: center;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiyxpBv2HpXEHujSSrjCLAmKQSMbGeA0BR4KGgVXysUpwcXAvvX4zFQ14WW0vMLdT75joz896h7364clCds-dyLod2GtT06BWgfqG9IfIgCy7XfpwDt40xQXsVbdD6yhmeEa9Co5H6y1ZA/s320/Kalymnos+4.jpg" width="426" /></a></div>
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<i>"Chilling after the crux, just below where I slipped off on</i><i> the on-sight attempt, on the 7c+ </i><i>at Cave.." </i></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiGJmc2jLmYgdImdOB43xvYgBy6nK3SqdLmHOWIxYQ6dYmZ5uiakCBzw_ZYk0_r9AbZK9K5QoAdRfbg_Vac9bA1RU7uA7885RRiMXp9y-zShcGB6Lbu4Zd2wvPw0z99Q_LafeS3hmCaXB4/s1600/Kalymnos+9.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="font-family: Times; font-size: medium; line-height: normal; margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em; text-align: center;"><img border="0" height="426" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiGJmc2jLmYgdImdOB43xvYgBy6nK3SqdLmHOWIxYQ6dYmZ5uiakCBzw_ZYk0_r9AbZK9K5QoAdRfbg_Vac9bA1RU7uA7885RRiMXp9y-zShcGB6Lbu4Zd2wvPw0z99Q_LafeS3hmCaXB4/s320/Kalymnos+9.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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<i style="font-family: Times; font-size: medium; line-height: normal;">"Christer feeling the power of the protein shake" </i></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgYqhdBmdpRFeYqQsfR9HqarRokjfxrF-RhmJnr24jkxkolsuUCwCSAtRCgZl7ceNESaeZsNk_-5_mfkbVpxC9Bpzo-9hk3HbONcVsg_U7keeVwQoqg4ZF7ut3gKVObw55WbW7voUZSF1o/s1600/Kalymnos+7.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="font-family: Times; font-size: medium; line-height: normal; margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em; text-align: center;"><img border="0" height="426" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgYqhdBmdpRFeYqQsfR9HqarRokjfxrF-RhmJnr24jkxkolsuUCwCSAtRCgZl7ceNESaeZsNk_-5_mfkbVpxC9Bpzo-9hk3HbONcVsg_U7keeVwQoqg4ZF7ut3gKVObw55WbW7voUZSF1o/s320/Kalymnos+7.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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<i style="font-family: Times; font-size: medium; line-height: normal;">"Jarle once again winning our game of darts down at the Scorpion Bar" </i></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjDP7PaVfUGh1lZtSVGwI9fvRYtYsGa1_AvV58L2ZXD-dNiI6bCAznj6cWGW_99GQQUUI0yBUhyJFMK-R48wwtc4mxYV_ojQvGlZsg2Z6yMTsux84XhuWUE6qA46ffe4tit91zm0-YA7O0/s1600/Kalymnos+19.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="426" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjDP7PaVfUGh1lZtSVGwI9fvRYtYsGa1_AvV58L2ZXD-dNiI6bCAznj6cWGW_99GQQUUI0yBUhyJFMK-R48wwtc4mxYV_ojQvGlZsg2Z6yMTsux84XhuWUE6qA46ffe4tit91zm0-YA7O0/s320/Kalymnos+19.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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<i>"Beer a clock at 11 in the morning after one of the many long nights down at the Scorpion Bar"</i></div>
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<span style="font-family: Noteworthy-Light; font-size: 15px; line-height: 22px; text-align: -webkit-auto;">When not hungover or climbing I also found some time to walk around, tourist style, and take random pictures.</span></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiXBe6A5L00n1TzzQvm9yPgFdw-itQSkTaRUTibGeS9spjzo443E_nhEd26PDyG0NoooEUi8N3u1TTYYmHsgkdw3VPqab-7kUjbzTvfOTEdlmX81Ln1-pw3RO_Gz9N_YNUEMdXXBQZSGvk/s1600/Kalymnos+24.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiXBe6A5L00n1TzzQvm9yPgFdw-itQSkTaRUTibGeS9spjzo443E_nhEd26PDyG0NoooEUi8N3u1TTYYmHsgkdw3VPqab-7kUjbzTvfOTEdlmX81Ln1-pw3RO_Gz9N_YNUEMdXXBQZSGvk/s320/Kalymnos+24.jpg" width="426" /></a></div>
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<i>"Some random car"</i></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEisqhgui1sGSvEo32BC6VNxUV26d4clORp-1TXnqa7rT_ZXlXmgwkRO4ZowEQg8nANLDNmAhiIO_jPI6xwMHTfWLGGxiU_fcqwnSfikSUIN9Wy7PVQkGAa5di_FHK3dm8WJaTqbL7RhE5s/s1600/Kalymnos+22.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="426" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEisqhgui1sGSvEo32BC6VNxUV26d4clORp-1TXnqa7rT_ZXlXmgwkRO4ZowEQg8nANLDNmAhiIO_jPI6xwMHTfWLGGxiU_fcqwnSfikSUIN9Wy7PVQkGAa5di_FHK3dm8WJaTqbL7RhE5s/s320/Kalymnos+22.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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<i>"The snake guarding the path to the E.T Cave"</i></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiLg8DIim8KOi_yP3mD3rIs05VkY0IpcdvDuATMryLIU2Oex1y86vLIEvgf1hCzsdesKZIKxLxlz1tlp0vF-VYabnRBxTJK_hsLkh5n1mSEEs8lJ31a5Pq23qWsp9bNHBVQ0JqXgR4esaw/s1600/Kalymnos+3.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="426" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiLg8DIim8KOi_yP3mD3rIs05VkY0IpcdvDuATMryLIU2Oex1y86vLIEvgf1hCzsdesKZIKxLxlz1tlp0vF-VYabnRBxTJK_hsLkh5n1mSEEs8lJ31a5Pq23qWsp9bNHBVQ0JqXgR4esaw/s320/Kalymnos+3.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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<i>"Telendos" </i></div>
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A week later the Sogndal crew arrived, the North Face festival started and we finally got a few chillier days, if chilly still can be used when it´s 25 degrees++... <span style="text-align: center;"> </span></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiSlhmdLLaxNmgxGRl4pVFrQpSTuiieMQpOQFJy7SS-QR6BdZzW1y3urDwDSE4G6C7BMdQ9TI5nIsAkI5PDCdYeMq_L_365bgPxaFtEEs0O-TXMIQiIzPiEEWNLurHRaqpxioKS-6w1QxU/s1600/Kalymnos+12.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="font-family: Times; font-size: medium; line-height: normal; margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em; text-align: center;"><img border="0" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiSlhmdLLaxNmgxGRl4pVFrQpSTuiieMQpOQFJy7SS-QR6BdZzW1y3urDwDSE4G6C7BMdQ9TI5nIsAkI5PDCdYeMq_L_365bgPxaFtEEs0O-TXMIQiIzPiEEWNLurHRaqpxioKS-6w1QxU/s320/Kalymnos+12.jpg" width="266" /></a><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi7Ix2g_BdnSo_mD9UwBPUsKWu7MgyHG5fPlPydOPvJzUzvvLOKWVJEc1sgK1DKmRFz44FXREFu8V47rs4nMD8gkasxSbkoSyXaGv5lNOHgCHdYQfTL_E0wEQJP7LvVGbhWtyN7jOzu3RE/s1600/Kalymnos+34.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi7Ix2g_BdnSo_mD9UwBPUsKWu7MgyHG5fPlPydOPvJzUzvvLOKWVJEc1sgK1DKmRFz44FXREFu8V47rs4nMD8gkasxSbkoSyXaGv5lNOHgCHdYQfTL_E0wEQJP7LvVGbhWtyN7jOzu3RE/s320/Kalymnos+34.jpg" width="266" /></a></div>
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<i> "Solveig chilling at the hotel" "Ole and Anders slowly going somewhere"</i></div>
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The North Face competition wall was unfortunately a bad joke and the closest I ever got to see the "pro´s" compete was from the road below.</div>
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Not saying that the wall it self isn´t good, (I never went up so I don´t know) but with a 45 min uphill approach combined with the sun hitting the wall before 10 in the morning, I can´t comprehend what sort of climber would think this wall would be good for hosting a comp at the end of september… </div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgylneMDXtkI5lsqS3Eki9TiBxDYjNNsZpB8ae7P9SPpvJWKUlL_gD6pZU5O3IWi-wVsAGoqCRyd3yYXkNWmzEkTYdxoGLAXkq9UuTlDv9VMP949-qGVkNcljQN-ndhvZQ1YyvLxopxzSI/s1600/Kalymnos+31.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="426" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgylneMDXtkI5lsqS3Eki9TiBxDYjNNsZpB8ae7P9SPpvJWKUlL_gD6pZU5O3IWi-wVsAGoqCRyd3yYXkNWmzEkTYdxoGLAXkq9UuTlDv9VMP949-qGVkNcljQN-ndhvZQ1YyvLxopxzSI/s320/Kalymnos+31.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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<i style="font-family: Times; font-size: medium; line-height: normal;">"The comp wall all the way in the back, the</i><span style="text-align: left;"><i> sun already creeping in at 9-ish in the morning"</i></span></div>
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So, basically ignoring the festival, Lars Ole and I ended up driving around to the shady side of the island and the new crag E.T Cave instead.</div>
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Located reasonably high and without a horribly long approach, E.T attracts wind from several directions, making it one of the best "summer" crags on the island. </div>
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The cave only has a few routes that, except for the one 7b+ and a project, all are in the 8a-8b range.</div>
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Leaving the sun walls, we ended up spending several days here, giving me the opportunity to fuck up several times and still get to send Tyrant (8a+), one of the best and most complete routes I have done to date. </div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiJpkbFEWUSoufE0IgYCpKhNGVUz8fsRmeApdE1uGgOOarRphyphenhyphenVkwixauCIZL3yHBX7uXWGjMAA063lycLqqN_Ad1kI-6XF_CAHF-SO25PoUe-hRshTbIawn-kHOPayyinM86IWXdAWtMg/s1600/Kalymnos+35.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiJpkbFEWUSoufE0IgYCpKhNGVUz8fsRmeApdE1uGgOOarRphyphenhyphenVkwixauCIZL3yHBX7uXWGjMAA063lycLqqN_Ad1kI-6XF_CAHF-SO25PoUe-hRshTbIawn-kHOPayyinM86IWXdAWtMg/s1600/Kalymnos+35.jpg" width="426" /></a></div>
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<i style="font-family: Times; font-size: medium; line-height: normal;">"Lars Ole entering the overhang on Tyrant, 8a+"</i></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgpmqkTEPDxhkoEXPxx0J-JHqrgzvt3nBTVNsp0Z4FmsorbTqsyOL9v67tn6Ev2tejPbF2hxTuwewDG_qDBCEjHVfDHimyn-p8znRW8-qf472fCstsWuHLZPQwB2BVO9os2GInEeS5HNls/s1600/Kalymnos+36.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em; text-align: center;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgpmqkTEPDxhkoEXPxx0J-JHqrgzvt3nBTVNsp0Z4FmsorbTqsyOL9v67tn6Ev2tejPbF2hxTuwewDG_qDBCEjHVfDHimyn-p8znRW8-qf472fCstsWuHLZPQwB2BVO9os2GInEeS5HNls/s320/Kalymnos+36.jpg" width="426" /></a></div>
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<i>"Kneepads recommended"</i></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjJ2vM7IrakAQ23-3BqAFD_7BvsawqFN3Ls2SO_gS9WGauZc3RagjpmgnlJmLfdybD-3ATa2MwwY6viaGdMjVDd9zErgj6khR1vRMINu-OEt65DfpC6BIREOozRhZ7O5ShTHLQRVzYmBrA/s1600/Kalymnos+38.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="426" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjJ2vM7IrakAQ23-3BqAFD_7BvsawqFN3Ls2SO_gS9WGauZc3RagjpmgnlJmLfdybD-3ATa2MwwY6viaGdMjVDd9zErgj6khR1vRMINu-OEt65DfpC6BIREOozRhZ7O5ShTHLQRVzYmBrA/s320/Kalymnos+38.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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<i>"The crux" </i></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiYcQPnzxtr18icxan-Fc66ALnfmYKuKf5jfSvU_7YJx4anoG7p7TMabzUJ1z4MgOAwqdST1RBsUlb6yAV9ksYmgZoWL7hfNUjhw0gyfFTI54GGJO8_5r1jeaZbx8xAYhovuV4DMALv3kg/s1600/Kalymnos+44.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiYcQPnzxtr18icxan-Fc66ALnfmYKuKf5jfSvU_7YJx4anoG7p7TMabzUJ1z4MgOAwqdST1RBsUlb6yAV9ksYmgZoWL7hfNUjhw0gyfFTI54GGJO8_5r1jeaZbx8xAYhovuV4DMALv3kg/s320/Kalymnos+44.jpg" width="426" /></a></div>
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<i style="font-family: Times; font-size: medium; line-height: normal;">"Starting to get pumped and another crux to go" </i></div>
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For his birthday Tobias had organised for a big trip to the Sikati Cave by boat. </div>
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Far out on the backside of the island, this one of a kind massive hole in the ground was the site of the Petzl rocktrip in 2006 and hosts some of the longest single pitch sportsroutes in the world.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEisLryqHkPkSivWsv-UEBJe76_vn_W_WCLtC8O1Zgwzmzk9QkzJzQmc9j8rGTCqZ4iBkWEHy977Iuv0yDZKETh7padsXBnh9G3XLW2pY29A7qoX8KOYmbVXV1h18LAa5RitQw1tU6ScHv4/s1600/Kalymnos+53.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="font-family: Times; font-size: medium; line-height: normal; margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em; text-align: center;"><img border="0" height="426" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEisLryqHkPkSivWsv-UEBJe76_vn_W_WCLtC8O1Zgwzmzk9QkzJzQmc9j8rGTCqZ4iBkWEHy977Iuv0yDZKETh7padsXBnh9G3XLW2pY29A7qoX8KOYmbVXV1h18LAa5RitQw1tU6ScHv4/s320/Kalymnos+53.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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<i style="font-family: Times; font-size: medium; line-height: normal;">"The Sikati cave seen from the boat" </i></div>
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Psyched on one of these massive routes, Lars Ole and I went over a few days early to abseil down the 75m long monster Morgan Adam est une Andalouse (8b).</div>
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There was little chalk, far between the bolts and just figuring out where the line went, clean the holds and put on our (specially bought for the occasion) one meter draws was a massive undertaking.</div>
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Wanting to get a feel for the route I volunteered to go down and do the work while Lars, clearly relieved, ended up watching and half sleeping down in the cave. </div>
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The route basically breaks down into 3 parts. </div>
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- Part one is a popular (good chance of having to stand in line) steep 7b+ into a short even steeper 7c+ extension to about the 25-30 meter mark. </div>
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- Part two is a massive jungle of huge 10-15 meter long stalactites, a funky almost vertical dihedral between some big tufas before ending in a good rest sitting awkwardly on a tufa mushroom. </div>
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- Part three is about 10 moves of steep climbing, a "hard" boulder problem, before another 10 meters of easier but seriously runout (basically no more bolts) climbing to the chains. </div>
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<i>"The route follows the overhang from the left corner up to the big stalactite, straight up between the black </i><span style="text-align: left;"><i>tufas and ending about a cm left (in the picture...) from where I´m standing" <b>©Lars Verket</b></i></span></div>
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About 65 meters up, just the weight off the rope will be several kilo´s not counting the ropedrag and you are faced with what for me is the by far hardest single move on the whole route. </div>
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The boulder consist of a big move from a undercling to a small crumbly crimp followed by a tricky mantle.</div>
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Not too worried about the mantling, it would all come down to this one move from the undercling to the crimp.</div>
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A rest day later and we where on the boats heading back to the cave. The weather was once again uncomfortably hot and the wind was as usual nowhere to be found.</div>
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<i>"The 40+ minutes boat ride bringing out some boy on boy Titanic action" </i></div>
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I must admit I was not feeling very optimistic as I was walking up from the beach, when I then slipped off the move from the undercling several times on the warm up, (we rappelled down) I was almost ready to give up. </div>
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Lars however nervous, stayed psyched, and with loads of friends and several photographers watching, we where committed, the time had come to go big or go home.</div>
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Lars had onsighted the 7c+ a few years ago, not tried the middle at all and top-roped the last 15 meters for the first time today.</div>
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I had tried the moves, hanging in the grigri, from the top down to the 7c+ in sneakers while cleaning the holds + top-rope tested the final crux with climbing shoes today.</div>
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Since I had done the work cleaning and fixing draws Lars had decided that I should choose who would go first. </div>
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With out proper beta on the first part and not feeling ready at all, I let Lars go first, completely forgetting that I would have to clean the draws if he where to succeed. </div>
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About one hour later he entered the crux, screaming and pulling his way through before mantling in to safety. </div>
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<i style="font-family: Times; font-size: medium; line-height: normal;">"Lars Ole somewhere on the 7b+ part, 60-ish meters to go" <b>©Lars Verket </b></i></div>
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Now, feeling even less ready, it was my time to shine.</div>
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Still way to warm for my comfort there was only two hours to go before the boat left, leaving me with little choice but to go for it. </div>
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I brought a t-shirt to wipe off the sweat and tried to focus on one short section at a time.</div>
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After about 10 meters I was literally dripping and already struggling to flash the 7b+ part. Luckily it got better and the 7c+ extension felt surprisingly easy.</div>
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To give myself some incentive to get to the final rest below the crux, I had stashed a can of coke and a chocolate bar in a plastic bag there in the morning. (the bag up to my right in the picture below) </div>
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Feeling totally dehydrated, this was all I could think about after having pulled the rope through in the stalactite jungle and so, before I knew what had just happened, I found myself sipping warm coke and looking up at the dreaded undercling.</div>
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<i style="font-family: Times; font-size: medium; line-height: normal;">"Me in the tufa </i><span style="text-align: left;"><i>dihedral, the top of the 7c+ down left of the rope, my can of coke just meters away" ©<b>Lars Verket</b></i></span></div>
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After sitting in the rest until I could barely feel my legs waiting for Dag Hagen, the editor of the Norwegian climbing magazine Norsk Klatring, to get into a photo position above me, I was as ready as I was ever going to be.</div>
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The ropedrag was worse then feared and I was getting pumped and stressed even before I reached the move. Once there however all that disappeared, nothing mattered but that elusive small crimp above me.</div>
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I pull hard, screamed, stuck it, fought through the next moves, mantled like a monkey in heat and it was done!</div>
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My longest "sportsroute" to date, a weird mix of flash and redpoint and not a single lead fall.</div>
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<i style="text-align: left;">"Mid crux, the undercling sticking out to the left of my left knee, the bad crumpling crimp in my right hand. Dag Hagen taking pictures from above <b>©Lars Verket</b> </i></div>
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<i>"Safely above the mantle, the last draw on the left and only 8-10 meters to go" <b>©Dag Hagen</b></i></div>
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So is it really 8b? </div>
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Maybe, maybe not, I know I could easily have fallen at the top several times, so how do you grade a route like this? </div>
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What I do know is that it´s a journey worth taking, no matter what number you choose to label it with. </div>
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<i>"Returning to the birthday dinner in Massouri" </i></div>
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After Sikati we had no more rest days, Lars Ole continued to crush while I just got more and more tired, in the end no longer able to bust a proper move. </div>
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We spent the last day trying some new routes put up by Ole Karsten and Tobias on yet another warm and windless day.</div>
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Everything felt wrong so, after failing to onsight Ole´s new 7b+, I gave up and spent the rest of the day belaying and taking pictures.</div>
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<i style="font-family: Times; font-size: medium; line-height: normal;">"Attempting to on-sight Ole´s, clipping the anchor is a lame crux, 7b+"</i></div>
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Lars Ole, also tired, had some last reserves of fight in him and by some miracle managed to pull off the first accent of a really cool route Tobias bolted earlier in the day named Angry Bird(s?).</div>
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In really bad conditions and using a very hard sequence he graded it 8a.</div>
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I hear that an easier solution was found a few days later so what grade it is now I don´t really know. </div>
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<i>"Angry Bird, first accent"</i></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiW69HmlNICV8WTJ10F6TX0B6ENoih987s3es4cIanlHl1FvjAUoDKbNq95UCWJulWN9afdy_WcMdphyQWXwEZJ4uhP59oO5QlMARxm0cqorZvbt3PrgFS-PcE8s_6_8UMCdy8vZo_iAVE/s1600/Kalymnos+86.jpg" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiW69HmlNICV8WTJ10F6TX0B6ENoih987s3es4cIanlHl1FvjAUoDKbNq95UCWJulWN9afdy_WcMdphyQWXwEZJ4uhP59oO5QlMARxm0cqorZvbt3PrgFS-PcE8s_6_8UMCdy8vZo_iAVE/s320/Kalymnos+86.jpg" width="426" /></a></div>
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<i>"The apparently unnecessary hard crux sequence" </i></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjmgbK7QQbqwW10oYQC4-iIg9ZAh5GiQV25ZgMbStf0lOGj0zES3E3cBzSXF-qrzhA8QOe26E33vXjOT3TClG2DXE_9f4iKVSLm1Bd414dszJQ2IdOCgg674tcKRdZCfrKNr9WoqCaIpWw/s1600/Kalymnos+89.jpg" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjmgbK7QQbqwW10oYQC4-iIg9ZAh5GiQV25ZgMbStf0lOGj0zES3E3cBzSXF-qrzhA8QOe26E33vXjOT3TClG2DXE_9f4iKVSLm1Bd414dszJQ2IdOCgg674tcKRdZCfrKNr9WoqCaIpWw/s320/Kalymnos+89.jpg" width="426" /></a></div>
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<i>"Sharma style screaming" </i></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjaTzzy_gd4k3oMjp7QJbC8NtsQoJij3fVLMPebmJDAa3jFin7YbOdvoWPmBkXizKYPwo-fpnL1OmMsRpVU1ywlyt7HMl08Rwjo1nIlIKreg1t5D_FIln7BTlyPiWinObcgosMcJHH5euc/s1600/Kalymnos+91.jpg" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjaTzzy_gd4k3oMjp7QJbC8NtsQoJij3fVLMPebmJDAa3jFin7YbOdvoWPmBkXizKYPwo-fpnL1OmMsRpVU1ywlyt7HMl08Rwjo1nIlIKreg1t5D_FIln7BTlyPiWinObcgosMcJHH5euc/s320/Kalymnos+91.jpg" width="426" /></a></div>
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<i> "still</i> <i>screaming!"</i></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhGa1kZfIIHTfQxSdYLpigWZgi2Ds0gQPDgsr2MFAKPr-vffyLnSDO4u2fw0gvtsTqAAcnZ0zAs5tpji2ywllx-N3tSIU_rYDAKuUyOCrmHVaHGUZ3-1XcMvoXVoI23MMWv83MmqPp7DJo/s1600/Kalymnos+96.jpg" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhGa1kZfIIHTfQxSdYLpigWZgi2Ds0gQPDgsr2MFAKPr-vffyLnSDO4u2fw0gvtsTqAAcnZ0zAs5tpji2ywllx-N3tSIU_rYDAKuUyOCrmHVaHGUZ3-1XcMvoXVoI23MMWv83MmqPp7DJo/s320/Kalymnos+96.jpg" width="426" /></a></div>
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<i>"The funky cross move"</i></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEimok-n_JbcA5VjwPj_R2RxRemBIpTUc40rd0Oowm1_-1dm6Cy8W2jvNpu54MsNxOZq68W_hd8ScINv8UfVt7dDAe31G-WVZsCjD7o_yEXTnhyphenhyphenXyA3RbjIHNWiBBnF6UPxnf3z9iCJYmMo/s1600/Kalymnos+97.jpg" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEimok-n_JbcA5VjwPj_R2RxRemBIpTUc40rd0Oowm1_-1dm6Cy8W2jvNpu54MsNxOZq68W_hd8ScINv8UfVt7dDAe31G-WVZsCjD7o_yEXTnhyphenhyphenXyA3RbjIHNWiBBnF6UPxnf3z9iCJYmMo/s320/Kalymnos+97.jpg" width="426" /></a></div>
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<i>"Lars Ole latches out towards the top jug"</i></div>
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<span style="font-family: Noteworthy-Light; font-size: 15px; line-height: 22px; text-align: -webkit-auto;">Thanks a lot to Lars Verket and Dag Hagen for the additional pictures. </span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Noteworthy-Light; font-size: 15px; line-height: 22px; text-align: -webkit-auto;"><i><b>Next up:</b></i> - The Danish Bouldering Championships and the epic behind the scenes video!</span></div>
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<span style="text-align: -webkit-auto;"><span style="font-family: Noteworthy-Light;"><span style="font-size: 15px; line-height: 22px;"><br /></span></span></span></div>
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<span style="text-align: -webkit-auto;"><span style="font-family: Noteworthy-Light;"><span style="font-size: 15px; line-height: 22px;">After that I will start blogging about this season in Spain so <b>stay tuned! </b></span></span></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Noteworthy-Light;"><span style="font-size: 15px; line-height: 22px;"><b><br /></b></span></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Noteworthy-Light;"><span style="font-size: 15px; line-height: 22px;"><b>©Henning Wang 2013</b></span></span></div>
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Wanghttp://www.blogger.com/profile/14840965362641239826noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5406441149653791722.post-86086295213416858952013-01-15T05:01:00.000-08:002013-01-15T05:03:22.373-08:00The Battle!<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
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Lillehammer, a small place and by no means the centre of the universe, has over the years been the site of some of the the best and biggest climbing comps in Norway. </div>
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The Nordic bouldering championships and the E9 invitational to name a few.</div>
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All this is mainly because of one man, Rune Osvold, that really knows how to make things happen.</div>
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This year Rune´s concept was "The Battle".</div>
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Much like the E9´s of the past it was an invitational and with big cash prices the big names where lined up like nothing ever before seen in Norway. </div>
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New of the year was that the competitors them selfs would be setting the problems, work them for a few hours, before then trying to redpoint them in the comp the next day.</div>
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The Norwegian climbing federation (NKF), contributed with both money and their brand new portable bouldering wall, and the scene was set for a great outdoor show in downtown Lillehammer. </div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjSEDGtd4J4RC8SBn6ovavbKA5MG1Sh7DdvleXVtNBl5oUB4d8WgNbpWJ1mg9N04oySeDjtaZS4gWEDs8arIk3taXenx5lpOC9ZVY6hnInP2nzqrYiYBi6HvFWHXeFPGFSbLJw32C3lrNY/s1600/The+Battle+13.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em; text-align: center;"><img border="0" height="426" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjSEDGtd4J4RC8SBn6ovavbKA5MG1Sh7DdvleXVtNBl5oUB4d8WgNbpWJ1mg9N04oySeDjtaZS4gWEDs8arIk3taXenx5lpOC9ZVY6hnInP2nzqrYiYBi6HvFWHXeFPGFSbLJw32C3lrNY/s640/The+Battle+13.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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<i>"NKF´s president Ole Karsten Birkeland and Rune Osvold psyched for the comp just minutes away"</i></div>
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But I get ahead of myself. </div>
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Since us normal not so strong people also like to climb, a separate "unofficial" comp was hosted for us earlier in the day.</div>
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This boulder "jam", indoors at Tyrili, followed a scorecard system on colour coded boulders set by a combination of the celebs and the locals and drew a host of people on all levels.</div>
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With a lot of cool boulders and the celebs walking around the room, it was a fun event, although the heat got way to high at times. </div>
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To make it even more unbearable, Tyrili had some strange rule against climbing without a t-shirt, something that got me several warnings when I kept "forgetting"...</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiA3Xwt0xfkNm0tNHn0WwLNGPk4wziENZ50QLK3OKfkpqeC_xoe54pWa65YOtp_a_y0rbbIcfy6s-n3OYBKN3keVmHk5LJF9V9dlNB7MfuoHl8lCIXaWqRm2MfPc1ZFrh2Uwu6uJLSS7SI/s1600/The+Battle+5.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em; text-align: center;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiA3Xwt0xfkNm0tNHn0WwLNGPk4wziENZ50QLK3OKfkpqeC_xoe54pWa65YOtp_a_y0rbbIcfy6s-n3OYBKN3keVmHk5LJF9V9dlNB7MfuoHl8lCIXaWqRm2MfPc1ZFrh2Uwu6uJLSS7SI/s640/The+Battle+5.jpg" width="426" /></a></div>
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<i>"Morten Gulliksen, also "forgetting" to wear his t-shirt"</i></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEioql04TuT3zYBj5kcCnhxw9HsqF02FMEtp_Ipr9lEQwZqVxRhxg_YJvUEqDurVdZyVJZ-bz6MZFCOZqh5wA1VUcxj_of4TVaWS9adNLIg2oPAqiMBovwdzECzcMjPEqWwps-icHfEfsf4/s1600/The+Battle+2.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="425" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEioql04TuT3zYBj5kcCnhxw9HsqF02FMEtp_Ipr9lEQwZqVxRhxg_YJvUEqDurVdZyVJZ-bz6MZFCOZqh5wA1VUcxj_of4TVaWS9adNLIg2oPAqiMBovwdzECzcMjPEqWwps-icHfEfsf4/s640/The+Battle+2.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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<i>"Rune presents the invited </i><span style="text-align: left;"><i>athletes before the jam"</i></span></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgCuTRFiZfx_ug0YcxhHg7JgR8grVTt12Uu4qXrslOnVvUnt9yy8EEcMA4ANvTdSI7kl7Yci_JGVJVJOpEnglnBEKIuHO1Z62KKuzMb0FUsRlPBChtHzNfixAXBe7n-nONKrs2NryCbyQM/s1600/The+Battle+1.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgCuTRFiZfx_ug0YcxhHg7JgR8grVTt12Uu4qXrslOnVvUnt9yy8EEcMA4ANvTdSI7kl7Yci_JGVJVJOpEnglnBEKIuHO1Z62KKuzMb0FUsRlPBChtHzNfixAXBe7n-nONKrs2NryCbyQM/s640/The+Battle+1.jpg" width="426" /></a></div>
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<i>"The really cool Dave problem, here solved with some funky girl beta skipping most of the holds.."</i></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiI501py_RM4WdTrZGmvqKZl9cz7HE44sXAV_mNTIqJRM0JkaMhyKpXj8aUUPQJKBEOVMY27Ev05QjwlOsSSbq8zkD8je4HazEcie5BEZvydHnY0rG4pk_iRHbfJ7m87jFZaoJySPnLDH0/s1600/The+Battle+4.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiI501py_RM4WdTrZGmvqKZl9cz7HE44sXAV_mNTIqJRM0JkaMhyKpXj8aUUPQJKBEOVMY27Ev05QjwlOsSSbq8zkD8je4HazEcie5BEZvydHnY0rG4pk_iRHbfJ7m87jFZaoJySPnLDH0/s640/The+Battle+4.jpg" width="426" /></a></div>
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<i>"Dave, enthusiastic as ever, talking about the moves on a boulder he´d just done" </i> </div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhRlS06Br8T-kcIhzqyNaBY-Qg5gpiUCqRkzX4ddHVsYzQsGxb9Myaqn33urYND_Hboi51eVLv66Fdq7wpzIR1UWiupdRxiFaz0L9xLm899tKY5bIM1h3Q3_RG-6H5HAETSpNElw-LUeEU/s1600/The+Battle+3.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhRlS06Br8T-kcIhzqyNaBY-Qg5gpiUCqRkzX4ddHVsYzQsGxb9Myaqn33urYND_Hboi51eVLv66Fdq7wpzIR1UWiupdRxiFaz0L9xLm899tKY5bIM1h3Q3_RG-6H5HAETSpNElw-LUeEU/s640/The+Battle+3.jpg" width="426" /></a></div>
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<i>"The Tyrili mushroom"</i></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg6rOSAQnqHH8Y_r_iWGh32rlZaVqeksG_ZTRfevHHiHbk6PJ94DD1Mnx_zSZZV_QpMC6eZcLSRUwhBBy9cmPNoQM1jlKfX1hg8WhUDIlDcfli8tBd5J_hgulvb2c-eQT-nLCsqY0ATfbo/s1600/The+Battle+6.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg6rOSAQnqHH8Y_r_iWGh32rlZaVqeksG_ZTRfevHHiHbk6PJ94DD1Mnx_zSZZV_QpMC6eZcLSRUwhBBy9cmPNoQM1jlKfX1hg8WhUDIlDcfli8tBd5J_hgulvb2c-eQT-nLCsqY0ATfbo/s640/The+Battle+6.jpg" width="426" /></a></div>
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<i>"Scorecard delivery time"</i></div>
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And then it was time for the main event, <i><b>The Battle</b></i>.</div>
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4 women and 5 men would battle it out for their piece of the 10.000€ pie. </div>
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For the men the stage was set for a fight between the norwegian ace Magnus Midtbø and some of the best outdoor boulders in the world today.</div>
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<i><span style="font-size: x-small;">(All the pictures are taken by me and subject to copyright. They are not to be used outside this blog without my written permission)</span></i><i style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: x-small;"> </span></i></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiPP8GMUIkyjF0HrLtGZY0gv32ttjbX_sTcv5wfEbhwtqoSKlsq34OZt5pK2zCYvG-4ThzSB5oS-C7CyrqtuGp56tn9WXdDMGzf8gr5_tmBmRthyhu8VfO-9X2Nu6mnEZnDxGX2Z7a0jxM/s1600/The+Battle+44.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiPP8GMUIkyjF0HrLtGZY0gv32ttjbX_sTcv5wfEbhwtqoSKlsq34OZt5pK2zCYvG-4ThzSB5oS-C7CyrqtuGp56tn9WXdDMGzf8gr5_tmBmRthyhu8VfO-9X2Nu6mnEZnDxGX2Z7a0jxM/s400/The+Battle+44.jpg" width="265" /></a><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiPP8GMUIkyjF0HrLtGZY0gv32ttjbX_sTcv5wfEbhwtqoSKlsq34OZt5pK2zCYvG-4ThzSB5oS-C7CyrqtuGp56tn9WXdDMGzf8gr5_tmBmRthyhu8VfO-9X2Nu6mnEZnDxGX2Z7a0jxM/s1600/The+Battle+44.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhx6jQagRKbWtVeTtjeuiReiBtv8l79L722NAIiejsCFIjgpPL29v1tTmn9iiNSOAe5ItAoMAoIy-40jnZAvrPkvcaDhwILCj_G-4kVNLB4CxjD1HRsKABEvLQvHOoyGYQXkXtTn8JYmeg/s400/The+Battle+42.jpg" width="265" /></a></div>
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<i>"Magnus Midtbø" "Nalle Hukkataival"</i></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiZo9iSJmQPbBAvPIy2MmadlObjUtwOn9vrzz-Lw-5eF_hE2huD5iEgiGZxWqXFBCdE-vewg6BGibpkzIcALK9Lv8qm7Y-k7xspBbnHWOQwsIlvAu_FkOCVC1rVYvUR97nRWTiCiriyPK0/s1600/The+Battle+11.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiZo9iSJmQPbBAvPIy2MmadlObjUtwOn9vrzz-Lw-5eF_hE2huD5iEgiGZxWqXFBCdE-vewg6BGibpkzIcALK9Lv8qm7Y-k7xspBbnHWOQwsIlvAu_FkOCVC1rVYvUR97nRWTiCiriyPK0/s400/The+Battle+11.jpg" width="265" /></a><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiXVtnoi0uC4zNRPIUdLCNvfaheU3h9ApbtS-t3d940h3_iQhye3Isja-5iadfgmMy842DYAabYtzWsTb-yOJsOGM_0d6wDI8cuvfMxlv0D9_uoHskceXxVQTD1TE5Bl5Dt9aLshUPejB0/s1600/The+Battle+9.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiXVtnoi0uC4zNRPIUdLCNvfaheU3h9ApbtS-t3d940h3_iQhye3Isja-5iadfgmMy842DYAabYtzWsTb-yOJsOGM_0d6wDI8cuvfMxlv0D9_uoHskceXxVQTD1TE5Bl5Dt9aLshUPejB0/s400/The+Battle+9.jpg" width="263" /></a></div>
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<i> </i> <span style="text-align: center;"> </span><i style="text-align: center;"> "Carlo Traversi" "Dave Graham" </i><i style="text-align: center;"> </i></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiTsnEvlqsuufSzKdTyUKHbaqEujiIVfSifEoLmq8xMJybMjdX_kQz1DEVRpzbMXeLhdS1GJwupniYZrh1rDMwscDf-eiU_6oSRs6y7feCq4WUCOkv5avy5EgPPZ6Audi9pIR7MfjBjxhU/s1600/The+Battle+7.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiTsnEvlqsuufSzKdTyUKHbaqEujiIVfSifEoLmq8xMJybMjdX_kQz1DEVRpzbMXeLhdS1GJwupniYZrh1rDMwscDf-eiU_6oSRs6y7feCq4WUCOkv5avy5EgPPZ6Audi9pIR7MfjBjxhU/s400/The+Battle+7.jpg" width="265" /></a></div>
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<i>"Daniel Woods"</i></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgt7OhHp_Vqg_iL5f0dIS1JUBUHbq4JtuV4dhw0838HBc0mLGMfW08Qh1gqV4yrLEobCo0s_nIIPXu3rChGpVfFH8oO2oYYeXOCRBU79iNlR0uGiH11vwgSgCg_G8KTbG6D-e0p5uTmWCg/s1600/The+Battle+14.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgt7OhHp_Vqg_iL5f0dIS1JUBUHbq4JtuV4dhw0838HBc0mLGMfW08Qh1gqV4yrLEobCo0s_nIIPXu3rChGpVfFH8oO2oYYeXOCRBU79iNlR0uGiH11vwgSgCg_G8KTbG6D-e0p5uTmWCg/s640/The+Battle+14.jpg" width="426" /></a></div>
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<i>"and yeah, Dave Graham"</i></div>
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While the invited men showed up as planned, there was unfortunately a few last minute changes for the women.</div>
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Shauna Coxey broke her leg bouldering in Switzerland, Therese Johansen injured a finger and Melanie Sandoz<i>,</i> with the world championships just a week away, also claimed some injury and failed to show. </div>
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(Melanie then went on to win the world championships so probably a wise decision on her part).</div>
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In the end, the only girl from the original crew to actually show was american powerhouse Alex Puccio. </div>
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Mina Leslie Wujastyk of Britain and Hannah Midtbø and Maria Davis Sandbu from Norway did a good job as replacements, but in a redpoint format could not keep up with Alex. </div>
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The originally intended "stronger" match up would probably have been a bit more even and I would have loved to se our own bouldering ace Therese give the other top girls a proper run for their money. </div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg5jJZTlPdT74Y0WVqoiVHeJ94NpHp0eqBMXh9iktW4PoUfq_43om1-APWgfPPyZJcWKU08smjEAqPGBJpNMn86a32AfkJHOV57oTfmno50m1Z0YxuyiP4Gn3tzJZdx82FTQWB83-FSIL0/s1600/The+Battle+15.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em; text-align: center;"><img border="0" height="426" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg5jJZTlPdT74Y0WVqoiVHeJ94NpHp0eqBMXh9iktW4PoUfq_43om1-APWgfPPyZJcWKU08smjEAqPGBJpNMn86a32AfkJHOV57oTfmno50m1Z0YxuyiP4Gn3tzJZdx82FTQWB83-FSIL0/s640/The+Battle+15.jpg" width="640" /></a><br />
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<i>"The girls getting ready to battle, from the left: Hannah, Alex, Mina, Maria" </i></div>
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Then it was time to begin and after a quick introduction of the girls the battle was on.<br />
Hannah, first out on her own problem, got unlucky with a wet foothold in the first try (it had rained and not all the holds got covered...) and looking more and more tired, did not make it in time.<br />
Mina and Maria put in some decent attempts, but in the end also got shut down.<br />
Alex then came in, made it look easy, and crushed it on her first go.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgzf1tKotN2XCGOCfBqCV9gTwp1XixDHFLSWSdK7w1Rcaz0p7tamy65pKI_5VZSJq55peXqQ7NaYdyfs51VJ6Zsuwbgffmbrdg2rFgfQXRce_1pc8AjZGT3Jzb5kI5cTNU79s1C39k1PXg/s1600/The+Battle+16.jpg" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgzf1tKotN2XCGOCfBqCV9gTwp1XixDHFLSWSdK7w1Rcaz0p7tamy65pKI_5VZSJq55peXqQ7NaYdyfs51VJ6Zsuwbgffmbrdg2rFgfQXRce_1pc8AjZGT3Jzb5kI5cTNU79s1C39k1PXg/s320/The+Battle+16.jpg" width="426" /></a></div>
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<i>"Alex cutting lose on the not so juggy top holds"</i></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgyFxx6HKPLc8RRg9lbY0K3PX2oEKZINUsAUNCAJpvJLmHgvLhs0MruIczUe6YknvCYGKul4DKbDlmLHzg0ncxuLu92AP44JMVHBehY00sb52gQocV-05QjZssjz29Dg5045bpHCbuUep4/s1600/The+Battle+17.jpg" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgyFxx6HKPLc8RRg9lbY0K3PX2oEKZINUsAUNCAJpvJLmHgvLhs0MruIczUe6YknvCYGKul4DKbDlmLHzg0ncxuLu92AP44JMVHBehY00sb52gQocV-05QjZssjz29Dg5045bpHCbuUep4/s320/The+Battle+17.jpg" width="426" /></a></div>
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<i>"Alex taking the lead with the only top of boulder nr.1"</i></div>
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Next up was the problem set by Maria. Technical, but perhaps not as powerful as the rest, this was probably the easiest and saw tops from all four girls. </div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjG_BBGbQtZTsONufqr8RkHGCZEuMcJFFtppsZoz1H2CPezNNeYCRN-X_ECOK4Ps0CEsbmaCu_SlFXzdDHHcCjMi9Zo9MYDfcBzf7AufYy0VUe5F_415ySZpZjkjJv0srb5pVduiRkTWg0/s1600/The+Battle+18.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjG_BBGbQtZTsONufqr8RkHGCZEuMcJFFtppsZoz1H2CPezNNeYCRN-X_ECOK4Ps0CEsbmaCu_SlFXzdDHHcCjMi9Zo9MYDfcBzf7AufYy0VUe5F_415ySZpZjkjJv0srb5pVduiRkTWg0/s320/The+Battle+18.jpg" width="426" /></a></div>
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<i>"Hannah setting up for the final move on Marias boulder"</i></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhVwukcpONkn15YQLQuzi8ExHetF1JHAbk9Kocn6zF_OQVWgB1528ttRxJdXMGNam6MV6cPt6mMjc4RCdP2NTG5YgYVu_SgYXASezQqrqtdzRwLuBClvBUYfhNqOPAUZ9bqKjR-fAN-rKU/s1600/The+Battle+20.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhVwukcpONkn15YQLQuzi8ExHetF1JHAbk9Kocn6zF_OQVWgB1528ttRxJdXMGNam6MV6cPt6mMjc4RCdP2NTG5YgYVu_SgYXASezQqrqtdzRwLuBClvBUYfhNqOPAUZ9bqKjR-fAN-rKU/s320/The+Battle+20.jpg" width="426" /></a></div>
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<i>"Mina on the same move from a different angle" </i></div>
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Boulder nr. 3, set by Alex, was a pure power problem with long moves between big pinches.<br />
While working the problem the day before none of the other girls had been able to get past the second move.<br />
This did unfortunately not change in the comp, so while Alex seemed to hike up it, the others came in only to fall off at the start over and over again.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgHubmB0bTdhNu2mglKoTJrgzTohvbSkH0hu2mZ4ehl1gcFSU4WOlhPY5xkIVTdkn3Q9v71D8yeViOIzKCH6KL2jLGcikjRojii83UyewRVGKBB6HB3oidiPdLIaiFo1u1KnG_fcPeP5Ns/s1600/The+Battle+21.jpg" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgHubmB0bTdhNu2mglKoTJrgzTohvbSkH0hu2mZ4ehl1gcFSU4WOlhPY5xkIVTdkn3Q9v71D8yeViOIzKCH6KL2jLGcikjRojii83UyewRVGKBB6HB3oidiPdLIaiFo1u1KnG_fcPeP5Ns/s320/The+Battle+21.jpg" width="426" /></a></div>
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<i>"Alex sticking the second move"</i></div>
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Last up was Minas problem, the deciding boulder in the battle for the second place. Alex had already won at this point with 3 out of 3 tops while the rest had one top each and no shot at the title.</div>
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Hannah and Maria got close but ended up falling of on a big cross move. </div>
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Alex, still looking strong, fell of the top once but sent in her next try for a perfect score of 4 out of 4.</div>
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Mina, climbing last, fell of her start dyno a couple of times but sticking that she made the rest look easy and finished the boulder off to a great cheer from the crowd. </div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjt32TrxQsbc40O1iG6i3It5tA-sNSHpFuCxN2wgEhpIiviwjSA1p3wLsFe_ysZTtkfR_Hpk9eqlZU5IMCC-Rqz5B4hKJ17iJLqrpd3bGdcYzM5IFL7brlWDy0WChb-0AyFY-7I1iM3tDY/s1600/The+Battle+24.jpg" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjt32TrxQsbc40O1iG6i3It5tA-sNSHpFuCxN2wgEhpIiviwjSA1p3wLsFe_ysZTtkfR_Hpk9eqlZU5IMCC-Rqz5B4hKJ17iJLqrpd3bGdcYzM5IFL7brlWDy0WChb-0AyFY-7I1iM3tDY/s320/The+Battle+24.jpg" width="426" /></a></div>
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<i>"Mina sticking the dyno"</i></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhUL0m7YTfK0oGELyJ0iC5ujS4AmQ1Tf9XLCye8PJdfrQR2GieIV0TXICr3eOR5fImPEps2C6_olMZ_q0ANPzYmSSzinEo8xZJaXSOpruBjDSPCggiAIxcWOC1eUTbI71tXpJBmifoYhlE/s1600/The+Battle+22.jpg" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhUL0m7YTfK0oGELyJ0iC5ujS4AmQ1Tf9XLCye8PJdfrQR2GieIV0TXICr3eOR5fImPEps2C6_olMZ_q0ANPzYmSSzinEo8xZJaXSOpruBjDSPCggiAIxcWOC1eUTbI71tXpJBmifoYhlE/s320/The+Battle+22.jpg" width="426" /></a></div>
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<i>"Maria crushing the crimpy traverse"</i></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjEE8o1V5IRJ9sm3YWQHQA39mZd7TFgTQecp-iUrV4HZpOaJ3LzUigoeCvyu_PXHEjL6CD4u0s6Efhgskdc9cutX-5jJj86YtM3Ye_GL4WgYLAwG1BxxP2OcCyJE5UH6TZJ4ZtmUmBfop8/s1600/The+Battle+23.jpg" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" height="426" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjEE8o1V5IRJ9sm3YWQHQA39mZd7TFgTQecp-iUrV4HZpOaJ3LzUigoeCvyu_PXHEjL6CD4u0s6Efhgskdc9cutX-5jJj86YtM3Ye_GL4WgYLAwG1BxxP2OcCyJE5UH6TZJ4ZtmUmBfop8/s320/The+Battle+23.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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<i>"Alex making the crux cross move that stomped Hannah and Maria"</i></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiFzAnH5C68sH_F50eAo-LGogvVar-lCS5MF9HuQcrIGJrdSjH_D6DG4OYgpU-gT7TrHnkZDmzCHmUZxdxIsuF8PAx6GG1gs8SnvmZUGn6CKvK-GeC_92n8t6HwHKfiFXoQY0dXulC8AlA/s1600/The+Battle+25.jpg" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" height="426" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiFzAnH5C68sH_F50eAo-LGogvVar-lCS5MF9HuQcrIGJrdSjH_D6DG4OYgpU-gT7TrHnkZDmzCHmUZxdxIsuF8PAx6GG1gs8SnvmZUGn6CKvK-GeC_92n8t6HwHKfiFXoQY0dXulC8AlA/s320/The+Battle+25.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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<i>"Mina sticking the final jug"</i></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhSpfdXduvptvfPHyjpILy9Z5BeS4G4E0n0JUMk4ARhHf0UpewUM6VW3QVjY7UxtAk8tm2iBkVPNzIDPoTFbzn6TnwO61zUt0QsRS09zb1i6ozFur5EIi4rLzCy5tZPYBmwdnlGkg4hJY8/s1600/The+Battle+26.jpg" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhSpfdXduvptvfPHyjpILy9Z5BeS4G4E0n0JUMk4ARhHf0UpewUM6VW3QVjY7UxtAk8tm2iBkVPNzIDPoTFbzn6TnwO61zUt0QsRS09zb1i6ozFur5EIi4rLzCy5tZPYBmwdnlGkg4hJY8/s320/The+Battle+26.jpg" width="426" /></a></div>
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<i>"The winner, Alex Puccio, with her well deserved pice of the pie"</i></div>
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Next up was the men, with artificial lights and darkness all around, the mood was set for a great show.<br />
The boulders all looked really hard and the guys all seemed somewhat tired from working them the day before.<br />
The conditions had also changed from windy and dry during the testing to no wind and a bit humid for the comp, making everything a bit harder.<br />
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The first and perhaps the hardest was Dave´s problem.<br />
Magnus, looking very strong, flowed across the boulder to the final move on his first try. Unfortunately he got a bit unlucky, missing on the reach to finishing hold, then slipping off on his next try.<br />
Carlo, Dave and Nalle all fell further down before Daniel pulled off the only send, taking the lead.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi8Ijec0KKtyt9iJnaoIggxN4tCaW0wBTRuoJlwm5KPY7xxzgxzK8T59T16myp0TLuUy5F9uTZTgpB305hNnB04xAKh0Qu6F7U0YkyzfjbI6q4knPz8APM_ap1EBJq1tXEKnCXSAtYw0vc/s1600/The+Battle+27.jpg" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi8Ijec0KKtyt9iJnaoIggxN4tCaW0wBTRuoJlwm5KPY7xxzgxzK8T59T16myp0TLuUy5F9uTZTgpB305hNnB04xAKh0Qu6F7U0YkyzfjbI6q4knPz8APM_ap1EBJq1tXEKnCXSAtYw0vc/s320/The+Battle+27.jpg" width="426" /></a></div>
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<i>"Dave, about to fall after missing the pinch"</i></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhGjwIwrhiAh9T0W3iXzufyHaDAppF93gQnbAbryH5BPnVq3tNau6ordUmjA1Sjt3C2z8IbfnlX4jKzVMMn99psDxiXyEhPONQHuQ3Qmbcqcb4umYTdIa3SwtSXoGA27_tZ79XTgGNZmJE/s1600/The+Battle+29.jpg" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhGjwIwrhiAh9T0W3iXzufyHaDAppF93gQnbAbryH5BPnVq3tNau6ordUmjA1Sjt3C2z8IbfnlX4jKzVMMn99psDxiXyEhPONQHuQ3Qmbcqcb4umYTdIa3SwtSXoGA27_tZ79XTgGNZmJE/s320/The+Battle+29.jpg" width="512" /></a></div>
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<i>"Magnus closing in on the final moves on his "almost" send"</i></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjcHAEkxHIy6fwJUih8hyphenhyphen_hpU4bI_JfNtoG74nauHZusnjjkwR2W4saFBmBakZ8tc27De7NYt4aFrEy409QzYpbr2ZDlAMnCvJhMFH7Xsh2IHxbOmQDhyJUGKs_c62nrZW4Y7gCg7IfTYs/s1600/The+Battle+28.jpg" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" height="426" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjcHAEkxHIy6fwJUih8hyphenhyphen_hpU4bI_JfNtoG74nauHZusnjjkwR2W4saFBmBakZ8tc27De7NYt4aFrEy409QzYpbr2ZDlAMnCvJhMFH7Xsh2IHxbOmQDhyJUGKs_c62nrZW4Y7gCg7IfTYs/s320/The+Battle+28.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
<div style="text-align: center;">
<i>"Daniel making the desperate reach and sticking the top hold during the only accent of the problem" </i></div>
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Next up was Nalle´s problem, a big dyno at the start before a slightly easier upper part.<br />
Here the guys got their grove back and even Dave, who seemed to think he wouldn´t be able to do the dyno, managed to pull it together for the send.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg-1vFqIZKVe2hpEIWIsaFvxUkU-wlf0grIcjV8xpCwLernXk4Fw0wZwmgJWtuMFaLYXGHs6K1OeE79bcdOMrLBjZsYAKgRA_qDJAivzug403S4kr5-ZkI0bVZoPyVAnAX4_v_zkstmTxs/s1600/The+Battle+31.jpg" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg-1vFqIZKVe2hpEIWIsaFvxUkU-wlf0grIcjV8xpCwLernXk4Fw0wZwmgJWtuMFaLYXGHs6K1OeE79bcdOMrLBjZsYAKgRA_qDJAivzug403S4kr5-ZkI0bVZoPyVAnAX4_v_zkstmTxs/s320/The+Battle+31.jpg" width="426" /></a></div>
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<i>"Daniel entering the upper part"</i></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhRuEd5T4OeA4cVzWRW6X7G2IRDgYxb29gK4qrEdJjkMqsLYDTrp1Eq_tcMjJ7gtS-EA6XKNGi4Api1hzEmnzki5x6Sn69tDxKOAhXfTYl29NR1HOPIXNsSX0EW8XSjpfn_eqJVa9rXZuA/s1600/The+Battle+30.jpg" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhRuEd5T4OeA4cVzWRW6X7G2IRDgYxb29gK4qrEdJjkMqsLYDTrp1Eq_tcMjJ7gtS-EA6XKNGi4Api1hzEmnzki5x6Sn69tDxKOAhXfTYl29NR1HOPIXNsSX0EW8XSjpfn_eqJVa9rXZuA/s320/The+Battle+30.jpg" width="426" /></a></div>
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<i>"Nalle sending his own problem"</i></div>
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Third in line came Daniels boulder, a pure power problem similar in style to Alex´s.</div>
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Again all the guys managed to stick it, Dave once again surprising himself. </div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg0p1rMPi0LridvUBQHwXh26w_skTXVNSO563_Vj5H0jJAhGx8XHU5SSIivfbgNT2RjQEpvX2kyKRvEyPBbImeQuD4UhdkazbQnlXigpXmXJD3GzS_AxCPkW3Y9qzm4zvALTA3E63_3Bpg/s1600/The+Battle+35.jpg" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" height="426" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg0p1rMPi0LridvUBQHwXh26w_skTXVNSO563_Vj5H0jJAhGx8XHU5SSIivfbgNT2RjQEpvX2kyKRvEyPBbImeQuD4UhdkazbQnlXigpXmXJD3GzS_AxCPkW3Y9qzm4zvALTA3E63_3Bpg/s320/The+Battle+35.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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<i>"Magnus looking over the moves one more time before sending"</i></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhF-0PxBP7WMBsXszB5a6deWtSAEgCOsfG5AZPny6PX-XekIe3ro05ZSUjpPKwEy0bl74PrCSjZhY8YVdnFI8rcS0Z1mqs4hYGGxSxvuiq7XmMvcWWWnyymvNHsbM3r4_qLA1PhMg9oOm0/s1600/The+Battle+32.jpg" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhF-0PxBP7WMBsXszB5a6deWtSAEgCOsfG5AZPny6PX-XekIe3ro05ZSUjpPKwEy0bl74PrCSjZhY8YVdnFI8rcS0Z1mqs4hYGGxSxvuiq7XmMvcWWWnyymvNHsbM3r4_qLA1PhMg9oOm0/s320/The+Battle+32.jpg" width="320" /></a><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh8TqpvBauUVIj23iin_OCSMrKqwFswK7ns-tvR7xVSSRzXEy24DxwGhV1LiBeRE-Wmao_iOszRWA34uepP8iFJ6pK13D10spyx8CRfdkO3wUVk5-Xo-DKw2HgRe0_zt8nK34G2XoWgfOA/s1600/The+Battle+33.jpg" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh8TqpvBauUVIj23iin_OCSMrKqwFswK7ns-tvR7xVSSRzXEy24DxwGhV1LiBeRE-Wmao_iOszRWA34uepP8iFJ6pK13D10spyx8CRfdkO3wUVk5-Xo-DKw2HgRe0_zt8nK34G2XoWgfOA/s320/The+Battle+33.jpg" width="266" /></a></div>
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<i>"Dave and Nalle sticking the first hard move"</i></div>
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<i>"Nalle sticking the final dyno"</i></div>
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The fourth and contender for the second hardest problem was set by Carlo and marked the end of the sending spree. </div>
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Dave, having looked a bit tired all day, now seemed to be running on fumes and got shut down on a hard move on the lower part. </div>
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Nalle, apparently also running out of juice, managed to get to within the last two moves before hitting the wall.</div>
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Luckily for us, Carlo, Magnus and Daniel all managed to pull through, keeping the battle alive as we entered into the fifth and final boulder.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg8hLtylf4Tf96DSqGspsTdkzTolCn4VSko6RlvdxhQCpF3McZuIgCGLJq6lN3-ZJDza6IpBF94kgc_bcRGbb7UCa8sNIOgz9uYJVSgqSxukf1XXk_U1xFSEuzo2QSwtjIbaLOG6sBwOmk/s1600/The+Battle+36.jpg" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg8hLtylf4Tf96DSqGspsTdkzTolCn4VSko6RlvdxhQCpF3McZuIgCGLJq6lN3-ZJDza6IpBF94kgc_bcRGbb7UCa8sNIOgz9uYJVSgqSxukf1XXk_U1xFSEuzo2QSwtjIbaLOG6sBwOmk/s320/The+Battle+36.jpg" width="512" /></a></div>
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<i>"Carlo busting one of the many hard moves on his own boulder"</i></div>
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<i>"Magnus making the final match"</i></div>
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Boulder nr. 5, set by Magnus, would be the deciding problem for the second place when Daniel once again started off by crushing it.</div>
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Since he was the only one to finish off problem one, he had now ended the day on the perfect and unbeatable score of 5 out of 5.</div>
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Nalle and Dave, although putting in a valiant last ditch effort, now both looked to be to tired and in the end perhaps more focused on the beer to come then getting up.</div>
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Carlo at first also looked to be running out of energy, slipping off several times on a powerful move in the middle, but then finally stuck it and somehow managed to finish it off.</div>
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Magnus, on his own boulder and in good position for second place, only needed to send the boulder in few tries to cash in.</div>
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That however did not happen... With a splitter in one finger and blood seeping out he slipped off the "easy" start moves at least ten times and thus lost the second place to Carlo on attempts. </div>
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But then, as all hope seemed lost and the time was about to run out, he also somehow managed to pull himself together and send, to the great pleasure of the crowd.</div>
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<i>"Daniel on the start moves Magnus kept slipping off"</i></div>
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<i>"Daniel setting up for the move Carlo kept falling off"</i></div>
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<i>"Magnus sending his own problem"</i></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjE_XgJ-fMz4htFosVJYV-bBce47k-7UA_JSr2CRSwveXu04Odn4NXwrjI2UQ_189cexhVvna7SgLQ0ymx4QneTLq_gww5-GhSOCEdeJwKaE89URmJ3dn64B_kqqgd9CmHCvVQ8OdSWpyA/s1600/The+Battle+41.jpg" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" height="512" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjE_XgJ-fMz4htFosVJYV-bBce47k-7UA_JSr2CRSwveXu04Odn4NXwrjI2UQ_189cexhVvna7SgLQ0ymx4QneTLq_gww5-GhSOCEdeJwKaE89URmJ3dn64B_kqqgd9CmHCvVQ8OdSWpyA/s320/The+Battle+41.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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<i>"1-5 place from left to right, the president giving out the remaining pieces of the pie"</i></div>
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All this happened a while back now and I might have mixed up some details here and there.<br />
How ever, since most of you probably don´t read about or care for the details of the comp anyway, I won´t spend any more time dwelling on it.<br />
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<i><u><b>All the pictures are taken by me and subject to copyright. They are not to be used outside this blog without my written permission. </b></u></i></div>
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Wanghttp://www.blogger.com/profile/14840965362641239826noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5406441149653791722.post-84084921515363267982013-01-11T23:12:00.001-08:002013-01-11T23:18:39.337-08:00The summer that was, Part 5!<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
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Things are going down left and right down here in Spain in a winter season that looks to be one of the best ever in a norwegian sport climbing perspective. </div>
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Completely ignoring that however I will stay in retro blogging mode a little while longer while I consider how much to reveal here and what to save for a potential article. </div>
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Hannah and I will be talking about the climbing here in Spain and show off a lot of my previously unpublished work after the "Norgescup" comp in Narvik (that Hannah and I are setting the routes for) in february, so if you want to know more, be there :)</div>
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So where was I?</div>
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<b><i><span style="font-size: large;">Sometime in July, DNT Fjellsport II, Hurrungane, Jotunheimen.</span></i></b></div>
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As I mentioned in my last post, this course is a hard one to do as an instructor. </div>
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3 out of 5 days are on mountain trips and mixed in with a glacier day there is very little down time to recover. </div>
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The days in the mountain are long and with the responsibility for the safety of the group constantly weighing down on your shoulders it is not just my legs that are getting tired. </div>
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And yeah, the pay is really bad...</div>
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So why did I take this course? </div>
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Well I really wasn´t going to, but then my good friend (or maybe not so good?) Bjørn Balle kept trying to talk me into it. </div>
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It was the one week in the whole summer I had not signed up to work, and I had planed to use it to train and recover. </div>
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DNT offered me "crisis" pay as they (as usual) where desperate, crisis pay still lower then normal pay from Breoppleving (for a much easier course), did however not impress me very much... </div>
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What in the end made me change my mind was the opportunity to work with the always funny, Jakob Fink. </div>
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With a bad weather forecast for Hurrungane, our first trip brought me (once again) back to the somewhat shielded slightly lower mountains of Smørstabbtindene. </div>
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As this course is supposed to a bit higher level then the others (level II not I), we went for half the traverse instead of just Skeia, adding a few more mountains, quite a lot of scrambling, a long rappel and a funky traverse to get all the way from Kalven (2000+) to Bjørneskaret. </div>
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The group was fast and the bad weather, somewhat stuck on the peaks of Hurrungane, did not catch up to us before the very end of the day. </div>
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We also got unusually lucky, finding gear lost and left behind by clumsy, rich or just generally useless people both on Skeia and on the final traverse.</div>
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The total count adding up to a mini traction, some pulleys, some brand new quick draws, a few carabiners, some nuts and two 40 meter half ropes! When it then started snowing it felt very much like christmas :)</div>
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<b><u><span style="font-size: large;">Smørstabbtindtraversen to Bjørneskaret</span></u></b></h4>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjqv9C_uuivThghKZ0mEl-wffVQ0ytXLNtlZwUSbZz_OyhkCzMrrCFZrH80fBC4AFDtsos4plKXSUUBancsyl7Wpz38LYKssC8idSrNpyGEw4zlekWdy0cusPRKeoR6cjNnyV-Qk40v1C4/s1600/Fjellsport+2,3.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjqv9C_uuivThghKZ0mEl-wffVQ0ytXLNtlZwUSbZz_OyhkCzMrrCFZrH80fBC4AFDtsos4plKXSUUBancsyl7Wpz38LYKssC8idSrNpyGEw4zlekWdy0cusPRKeoR6cjNnyV-Qk40v1C4/s320/Fjellsport+2,3.jpg" width="426" /></a></div>
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<i>"Climbing up to Skeia (again), the traverse starting just beyond the ridge in the background" </i></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiNYJtIs48YWWUQocnIaVli1E3lL7BBZ0HxIY6YlyswovMlZkMuZSUz11iehbF9TPz2h5qCdGVYmm0Tys36ddk81Q2ISH-9UCKHETcdadz0GfvjuWi21_o5lsMez92fnGgK-5TLRp4m3SU/s1600/Fjellsport+2,2.jpg" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" height="426" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiNYJtIs48YWWUQocnIaVli1E3lL7BBZ0HxIY6YlyswovMlZkMuZSUz11iehbF9TPz2h5qCdGVYmm0Tys36ddk81Q2ISH-9UCKHETcdadz0GfvjuWi21_o5lsMez92fnGgK-5TLRp4m3SU/s320/Fjellsport+2,2.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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<i>"Christmas? Jakob finding the first "present" of the day"</i></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhz0pThjg2htBIQSd83cRwhRMQtN9yndOY8CbODp8F_as98spv0nrtEV8ID0RBPRtvWJjC_DOPIiWrWpKGlcWS8bkVmuuTVUaIV52mC8n_7-lkUrF_jc38DBwLwzMAFJiZyoxhcdkhfSvg/s1600/Fjellsport+2,4.jpg" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhz0pThjg2htBIQSd83cRwhRMQtN9yndOY8CbODp8F_as98spv0nrtEV8ID0RBPRtvWJjC_DOPIiWrWpKGlcWS8bkVmuuTVUaIV52mC8n_7-lkUrF_jc38DBwLwzMAFJiZyoxhcdkhfSvg/s320/Fjellsport+2,4.jpg" width="426" /></a></div>
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<i>"Scrambling from Skeia (overhanging thing in the back) towards Veslebjørn"</i></div>
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<i>"The famous traversing rappel between Veslebjørn and Bjørnungen" </i></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEglYJpnKo0h2A2S8-n9omaEoV5WL0I232o47EF86XKD8NGpv-A0k4ZcxJjn5Uoul4zjVUQAfWfyowPMZLuukkeMKoZr781UGQvnfY00H9dfaTYWFQHvAadvrzQnCIi5IApikriieomdFrE/s1600/Fjellsport+2,5.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><i><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEglYJpnKo0h2A2S8-n9omaEoV5WL0I232o47EF86XKD8NGpv-A0k4ZcxJjn5Uoul4zjVUQAfWfyowPMZLuukkeMKoZr781UGQvnfY00H9dfaTYWFQHvAadvrzQnCIi5IApikriieomdFrE/s320/Fjellsport+2,5.jpg" width="426" /></i></a></div>
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<i>"Exiting the "crux" of the traverse, Veslebjørn sticking up above his helmet"</i></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiLNjxGinrMCyOYF7y_uWZY5ncDPISOpiKRIY4dd8e8UGcy3aAdiPgXYmulNmLT95b3Bmj1ACl9zP3WL0WD0YCGC501mhDCphFFhOykULAo2d1z7D6K3v5DyU1rWPljXPa5IT-GxTMktIM/s1600/Fjellsport+2,7.jpg" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiLNjxGinrMCyOYF7y_uWZY5ncDPISOpiKRIY4dd8e8UGcy3aAdiPgXYmulNmLT95b3Bmj1ACl9zP3WL0WD0YCGC501mhDCphFFhOykULAo2d1z7D6K3v5DyU1rWPljXPa5IT-GxTMktIM/s320/Fjellsport+2,7.jpg" width="426" /></a></div>
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<i>"Exposed?"</i></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi_Hiv_HCpX4bIvj2zrWW5Zqe3vf0r40PEd32bwIRp1Zwe0kZ_jDL0BTFVHXCDDyUWQZehyphenhyphencVYOh4Lfugu0RWdNDhNc7VDUP8P67Y3DRTC6RaVYqu74dDbYrsZXclUBVWArV9fiPgcQG6g/s1600/Fjellsport+2,8.jpg" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi_Hiv_HCpX4bIvj2zrWW5Zqe3vf0r40PEd32bwIRp1Zwe0kZ_jDL0BTFVHXCDDyUWQZehyphenhyphencVYOh4Lfugu0RWdNDhNc7VDUP8P67Y3DRTC6RaVYqu74dDbYrsZXclUBVWArV9fiPgcQG6g/s320/Fjellsport+2,8.jpg" width="426" /></a></div>
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<i>"Jakob finishes up just in time before the blizzard hit us"</i></div>
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<h4>
<b><u><span style="font-size: large;">Store Skagadølstind via Slingsbybreen</span></u></b></h4>
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Next up was the big two day trip and with a strong group and fellow instructor, it was time to try something a bit harder. </div>
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Norway´s third highest mountain, Store Skagadølstind (2405 meters), requires climbing to summit no matter what angle you choose to attack it from. </div>
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It is of course not "hard" climbing, but in a "alpine" environment (in Norwegian standards at least) with lots of weather and good chances for both snow and ice mid summer, it´s still perhaps the most classic norwegian "mountaineering" challenge over a hundred years after the first accent. </div>
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The first accent was done by walking around the south side of the mountain and up a glacier to a point called Mohn´s skar (aptly named for the guy who gave up there) and then onsight solo´d by Slingsby from the south east by what is now of course know as the Slingsby route (sandbagged at 2+), something that must have been quite the feat back in the day. </div>
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Since then the glacier (also named after Slingsby) has withdrawn quite a bit, leaving some tricky polished slabs riddled with sand and lose rocks, making this route a slightly more serious affair. </div>
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In summers with little snow the leap from the glacier to the rock is a major crux on it´s own, but as the guides thought the bridge would be there, we decided to go for it.</div>
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With a weather window of one day I decided that ending up close to the emergency/survival hut Skagadølsbu (also known as hytta på bandet), was the best camping option in case it got really bad. Ending up here would also allow us to leave a lot of stuff while passing on the way up, saving us from carrying loads of unnecessary gear all day. </div>
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The original route basically follows the normal path up to this survival hut, but where the now common path up the mountain (Heftys and Andrews) keep going up the ridge to a few pitches of climbing near the top, walking around the galleries, up the glacier and into Mohn´s skar is a different matter entirely both in difficulty and in time, a lesson I was about to learn....</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhYdU_PzvFd6nAJZfNtg74ycKUyiFzhCh3PJBxjkV-kmu6GR1DhL5j3f7ol4VHVZ-bGVT-NqGVZPDfZrQPqRE70O9S76zn7_jHbMPy0A2wL4tPx5d_My5sLTuBIEGuiGrYHf0kkQSzHFWc/s1600/Fjellsport+2,9.jpg" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" height="426" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhYdU_PzvFd6nAJZfNtg74ycKUyiFzhCh3PJBxjkV-kmu6GR1DhL5j3f7ol4VHVZ-bGVT-NqGVZPDfZrQPqRE70O9S76zn7_jHbMPy0A2wL4tPx5d_My5sLTuBIEGuiGrYHf0kkQSzHFWc/s320/Fjellsport+2,9.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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<i>"Looking up towards the glacier and the lower part of the south east face after passing the galleries"</i></div>
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Clouds packed with snow then hit us (again) and for a long time we saw no more then 20 meters in front of us, but except for missing out on what is supposed to be a spectacular view, we suffered little and made it to where the glacier ends and the rock/ice/snow of unknown difficulty begins.</div>
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<i>"Jakob takes the lead and solo´s up the first of the many pitches of mixed terrain up from the glacier"</i></div>
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The climbing was poorly protected and in a strange mix of terrain. With a big group it was also a slow and cold process that I doubt I will do again (at least without getting considerably better payed..). In the end we did somehow get through, entering Mohn´s just as the clouds lifted. </div>
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From there to the top I was once again back in familiar terrain, having climbed the Slingsby route several times before. </div>
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Graded (sandbagged) at 2+, this is a tricky one, especially when you add ice and snow in the steeper parts. </div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiqfQItTpmZVGfbrzKimmY-XV5Y0RYn50CXMFugke5BmSoCI2-n8-OhyphenhypheniFEPghKNpy0iE3jbSyXokC8_T5J6MtQSy69SiQyfNHijLSrFj4VyypyUdy27HRY4TxxWlU8x5DGnMO1lDcpnqQ/s1600/Fjellsport+2,11.jpg" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiqfQItTpmZVGfbrzKimmY-XV5Y0RYn50CXMFugke5BmSoCI2-n8-OhyphenhypheniFEPghKNpy0iE3jbSyXokC8_T5J6MtQSy69SiQyfNHijLSrFj4VyypyUdy27HRY4TxxWlU8x5DGnMO1lDcpnqQ/s320/Fjellsport+2,11.jpg" width="426" /></a></div>
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<i>"After countless hours of viewless misery, we finally enter Mohn´s skar and receive a quick glimpse of our surroundings" </i></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiM1PzN-GNafw4J7ZOWLXsuniXji7k8ZyEJEkZQd7su-TCvtN_2kfVWcD4btB4ep8kxrYeAVVC7yvQ7O_NiRFwrE5DDDeNpvyAPwiFTyoVsZbusaym_4o0se1NoZoDWr6Nl-mRbZ-AKfBo/s1600/Fjellsport+2,12.jpg" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" height="426" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiM1PzN-GNafw4J7ZOWLXsuniXji7k8ZyEJEkZQd7su-TCvtN_2kfVWcD4btB4ep8kxrYeAVVC7yvQ7O_NiRFwrE5DDDeNpvyAPwiFTyoVsZbusaym_4o0se1NoZoDWr6Nl-mRbZ-AKfBo/s320/Fjellsport+2,12.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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<i>"Store Skagadølstind and the Slingsby route seen from Mohn´s </i><span style="text-align: left;"><i>skar"</i></span></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhdbKaz3Hv7341BUQzTlqmQt789xc3C7Z2IZ4m-rIcEjx65q53fdDe6ortjeC6aMebpRzXFJIPaKXFG1XuXGZpD66CiLbl8Z65dasW2uT5u2IBVpjULcZMY-H6TfFDaJnAjUs5_jYTi96o/s1600/Fjellsport+2,13.jpg" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhdbKaz3Hv7341BUQzTlqmQt789xc3C7Z2IZ4m-rIcEjx65q53fdDe6ortjeC6aMebpRzXFJIPaKXFG1XuXGZpD66CiLbl8Z65dasW2uT5u2IBVpjULcZMY-H6TfFDaJnAjUs5_jYTi96o/s320/Fjellsport+2,13.jpg" width="426" /></a></div>
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<i>"Once again in the clouds, Jakob leads his group up the final bits of climbing" </i></div>
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As I mentioned before, one needs to climb (or be flown) to get to the top, so to get down we naturally had to abseil.</div>
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The normal way down is a 50-ish meter long free hanging rappel down to the corner below the normal route (Hefty´s) before a lot of scrambling down to the slabs where another rappel is common. </div>
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Since we are trying to teach people something (not just get them up), they do their own rappelling (instead of being lowered), yet another slow and cold process for the instructor.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh7hOzHJcCcRe-HA0Y1I55tp2LpeLJCiAa-tFM6UtI9uK0ENvK01jTNFeZDQRrU1mN2O34vd6OoBhArQ0gIoii4ZkyEbmjXoBytyVM2l3oWCUj_GzjuWOuw5mbIqPeLOBXhyeMb_W7BZc4/s1600/Fjellsport+2,14.jpg" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" height="426" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh7hOzHJcCcRe-HA0Y1I55tp2LpeLJCiAa-tFM6UtI9uK0ENvK01jTNFeZDQRrU1mN2O34vd6OoBhArQ0gIoii4ZkyEbmjXoBytyVM2l3oWCUj_GzjuWOuw5mbIqPeLOBXhyeMb_W7BZc4/s320/Fjellsport+2,14.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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<i>"My point of view from the abseil point. The glacier hundreds of meters below in the fog to the left" </i></div>
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The rappel tok about two hours as another group got in between some of mine... Then the downclimb from there was icy and slow and on top of that, some guy in another group behind us loosened a big rock that wing clipped poor Jakob...</div>
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It was a completely wasted crew that huddled into the emergency hut after 14+ hours up on the mountain. Only one actually slept outside, while the rest of us huddled together inside like the pussy´s that we are. </div>
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To save weight I had left comforts like a sleeping bag behind, but thanks to a girl with a large bivybag and some body heat to spare, I did not suffer.</div>
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The next day we woke inside a cloud to a cold mix of rain, snow and wind. </div>
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The plan to climb up southern Dyrhaugstind (4-5 pitches) and then traverse the ridge out got voted of the island and we ended up taking the easy way back down to basecamp for a well deserved hot shower, cold beer and chilling instead.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjAVmEUZi2WHIGq-PMuNxSALQTI89nB6_4CZemWtJY7AslexVEbMOCPNsEuGw4dY5EuDxNZmoX05i1CGVFz3l86pI8iUh_ru2wXNF8MIgmF1QgQeJ2DIXJVlA-gGZreTz5FwFnxVdbQT7o/s1600/Fjellsport+2,15.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="text-align: left;"><img border="0" height="426" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjAVmEUZi2WHIGq-PMuNxSALQTI89nB6_4CZemWtJY7AslexVEbMOCPNsEuGw4dY5EuDxNZmoX05i1CGVFz3l86pI8iUh_ru2wXNF8MIgmF1QgQeJ2DIXJVlA-gGZreTz5FwFnxVdbQT7o/s320/Fjellsport+2,15.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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<i>"Jakob infront of Hurrungane, Skagadølstindene above him, Dyrhaugsryggen above the kayaks, the hut we slept in is somewhere on the ridge in the sun above his head"</i> </div>
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<b><i>Early August, Klatrekurs i Lom og Hurrungane, Breoppleving</i><span style="font-size: large;"> </span></b></h2>
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After the Fjellsport II course I finally got two much needed rest days back home in Sogndal.</div>
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The two days went by way to fast, and not really feeling rested at all, I once again found myself back on the other side of the mountain in Lom for my last (planned) course of the season.</div>
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I like to show up a bit early, dressed like a "civilian", and just hang out and see what sort of people show up. </div>
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If possible I don´t give away that I´m the instructor before everyone is there awkwardly looking around, at their watches and at each other.</div>
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As usual the "beginners" showed up, did their awkward aimless look around, but for some reason no other instructor arrived...</div>
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With a fully booked course this is a problem. </div>
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The first night is more of a meet and greet, look over the gear, plan the next day and so on. Basically a fairly easy job to solo. </div>
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Going up to climb in the mountains alone with 6 people on the other hand, thats a different ballgame altogether... A ballgame I will not risk playing, knowing full well that my highly skilled friend Arne Moe died from it when someone was unlucky enough to drop the ball... </div>
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After some phone calls the misunderstanding was complete. The other instructor had somehow forgotten he was supposed to work and was now several days from civilisation somewhere on a mountain further north...</div>
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Breoppleving did how ever not leave me hanging, and Mathias filled in for the first trip where we repeated the exposed traverse between Veslebjørn and Bjørnungen in Smørstabbtindene, this time without me bringing the camera...</div>
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For the last trip they hooked me up with fellow "Sogndøling" and newly qualified instructor Sander for another great trip over Dyrhaugsryggen from the south in the best weather of the season. </div>
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Unfortunately I´d gotten something on the sensor of my camera some time before this, and after a few failed self cleaning attempts, it was now showing clearly on all my shots.. The following are some of those I manage to partly rescue/photoshop clean a bit. </div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEigIA5znvkrBpGWg-GiWcjMb3NVwU96foEI6tshyphenhyphen8s3yx4iRACowxTNbkS-GTnJNjfWtvzgZ-53X5cHYvjAnvospLZnFU_MZzbDTxPkoCpuEH2D35NjhGKiTUqPCUEg09_WVcl_ZzN2alY/s1600/Klatrekurs+bre+opp+2,1.jpg" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" height="426" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEigIA5znvkrBpGWg-GiWcjMb3NVwU96foEI6tshyphenhyphen8s3yx4iRACowxTNbkS-GTnJNjfWtvzgZ-53X5cHYvjAnvospLZnFU_MZzbDTxPkoCpuEH2D35NjhGKiTUqPCUEg09_WVcl_ZzN2alY/s320/Klatrekurs+bre+opp+2,1.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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<i>"Dyrhaugsryggen to the right, the climbing is in the steep left facing wall on the ridge"</i></div>
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<i>"Some walking around, Store Skagadølstind up to the right"</i></div>
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<i>"Looking down Midtmaradalen, Store Midtmaradalstind sticking up above the clouds" </i></div>
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<i>"Almost at the foot of the climbing"</i></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiTvS9MchlGJBTXvRLZ7DBNqSJxSg7sRsI82MqyCNclRxqxZgu8lcc8sM2FqNN8FJUhKnR2bsmG_VawOlVx1G9gaYF2Bb57wEr69kxDZX48zgOY5tJ9Ec87-yrJHjUdBfKvQ6qPppIsLZc/s1600/Klatrekurs+bre+opp+2,7.jpg" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" height="426" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiTvS9MchlGJBTXvRLZ7DBNqSJxSg7sRsI82MqyCNclRxqxZgu8lcc8sM2FqNN8FJUhKnR2bsmG_VawOlVx1G9gaYF2Bb57wEr69kxDZX48zgOY5tJ9Ec87-yrJHjUdBfKvQ6qPppIsLZc/s320/Klatrekurs+bre+opp+2,7.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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<i>"First belay and a great view down towards Store Midtmaradalstind"</i></div>
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<i>"Sanders team reaching the second belay, another great view towards Skagadølstindene"</i></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiwZ-j9SZH7Tcc5nebjywA5an9g6BZjMuIiUzWBJTkPNfSk8og4yBEVYYC98i8hg18cDPEbV9TIAWJ1-pxmFoqn2zEf-1r6PvO5inDyzWfV2J5cYgkbEGOdgFIQRfK0VJx888PrnM3p4n8/s1600/Klatrekurs+bre+opp+2,9.jpg" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" height="426" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiwZ-j9SZH7Tcc5nebjywA5an9g6BZjMuIiUzWBJTkPNfSk8og4yBEVYYC98i8hg18cDPEbV9TIAWJ1-pxmFoqn2zEf-1r6PvO5inDyzWfV2J5cYgkbEGOdgFIQRfK0VJx888PrnM3p4n8/s320/Klatrekurs+bre+opp+2,9.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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<i>"Sander leads off on to the exposed traverse of the optional third pitch"</i></div>
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<span style="text-align: left;">I had some unusually skilled "beginners" on this course, and since the weather was so nice, I decided to test letting two of them lead a pitch each. </span></div>
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<span style="text-align: left;">I lead up first to have a rescue/photo rope in place, and finally got some shots of these very photogenic pitches I´v been wanting for quite some time now. (copyrighted of course even thought my usual copyright marking in picture for some reason isn´t working...) </span></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEje4M6c5q6T0-RZWB2Hsa0slh5eoNCo7kqshIg62eHPzr8OaOHmxOG9avGBdahg9Rf4zZRv42JzCCGr0zIPG7C90J9hP8Y9OM1srhY0NQ0uDy2nkqxD7hoTwhJxyx_LGFrzbtW0Ahp_qHI/s1600/Klatrekurs+bre+opp+2,10.jpg" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEje4M6c5q6T0-RZWB2Hsa0slh5eoNCo7kqshIg62eHPzr8OaOHmxOG9avGBdahg9Rf4zZRv42JzCCGr0zIPG7C90J9hP8Y9OM1srhY0NQ0uDy2nkqxD7hoTwhJxyx_LGFrzbtW0Ahp_qHI/s320/Klatrekurs+bre+opp+2,10.jpg" width="426" /></a></div>
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<i>"The direct version of pitch three, grade 4-ish"</i></div>
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<i>"Exiting the crux, Store Skagadølstind in the background"</i></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiHxp6j_h2OfKW0GEe_sDgBFBas5mgZNRDrLriXx3Tktn3iaNHm3H5QMwIluTvIRLuOOw4wDokaz0TMwvBfarBnEYhjJtPbGsij49q-U44D681bOdyEMcZ7pPMnTcW5HDvjcfdWOlDhFuI/s1600/Klatrekurs+bre+opp+2,12.jpg" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiHxp6j_h2OfKW0GEe_sDgBFBas5mgZNRDrLriXx3Tktn3iaNHm3H5QMwIluTvIRLuOOw4wDokaz0TMwvBfarBnEYhjJtPbGsij49q-U44D681bOdyEMcZ7pPMnTcW5HDvjcfdWOlDhFuI/s320/Klatrekurs+bre+opp+2,12.jpg" width="426" /></a></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi2nvJ76hnlV7Yqn4XavGs9Wy6UcLhW8zEfidtVc4g5kgpV72ZWOwWVF66_CRARHUp7UzcA4lyd0pc4SHruHyVfoyG2LlyoCZH5jnM09Nnr_cf66AFjqj7IXzav6SmOuOAiXbbpeKzJey8/s1600/Klatrekurs+bre+opp+2,13.jpg" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi2nvJ76hnlV7Yqn4XavGs9Wy6UcLhW8zEfidtVc4g5kgpV72ZWOwWVF66_CRARHUp7UzcA4lyd0pc4SHruHyVfoyG2LlyoCZH5jnM09Nnr_cf66AFjqj7IXzav6SmOuOAiXbbpeKzJey8/s320/Klatrekurs+bre+opp+2,13.jpg" width="426" /></a></div>
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<i>"Pitch 4, here as pitch 5 as I choose to split the pitch in two" </i></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgWTHAXXNS76UFqZXC8a4QLYwCw3wj5IUz2VkqpcpKw6CdubvzCKn-Ex9VnSe8eBhf8YVkicxcSVjT9a_wX2hCRt1BYlNuV5oCEEEknrSXxgibwsciAR1vVoFjra8VJtKWRwqXdkVVpsT8/s1600/Klatrekurs+bre+opp+2,14.jpg" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgWTHAXXNS76UFqZXC8a4QLYwCw3wj5IUz2VkqpcpKw6CdubvzCKn-Ex9VnSe8eBhf8YVkicxcSVjT9a_wX2hCRt1BYlNuV5oCEEEknrSXxgibwsciAR1vVoFjra8VJtKWRwqXdkVVpsT8/s320/Klatrekurs+bre+opp+2,14.jpg" width="426" /></a></div>
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<i>"The final belay at the top of pitch 5"</i></div>
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After the climbing loads of up and down scrambling on the ridge follow´s (graded 2-ish), before reaching the northern peak and not so exposed walking back down to Turtagrø.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjm9W0ekO2PxifRJX46xG4aYEY4DDa-fyFmurw9sxING_HEOKCvvC2MaxbiKkRc2mZDfNhWQawaBZ6vmeA0W49RT1kjhPKdBeLKuBrWiLlBXK82uqa4paqgEeUwGcM08ulsjkCulNDD-b8/s1600/Klatrekurs+bre+opp+2,15.jpg" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" height="426" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjm9W0ekO2PxifRJX46xG4aYEY4DDa-fyFmurw9sxING_HEOKCvvC2MaxbiKkRc2mZDfNhWQawaBZ6vmeA0W49RT1kjhPKdBeLKuBrWiLlBXK82uqa4paqgEeUwGcM08ulsjkCulNDD-b8/s320/Klatrekurs+bre+opp+2,15.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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<i>"Scrambling"</i></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEia1TEPLx_EEWlXze32M4_CEcQurZ3UAHdpUn98S6BhROyKYF_JDt5noycO01EyKsTlHHnQ-ux6YkarbHrL1OG1v-cGRvYZABcf66zClvc9AoVHeJi17k3KP0l8fnVrNtotvkpaawolUIM/s1600/Klatrekurs+bre+opp+2,16.jpg" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" height="426" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEia1TEPLx_EEWlXze32M4_CEcQurZ3UAHdpUn98S6BhROyKYF_JDt5noycO01EyKsTlHHnQ-ux6YkarbHrL1OG1v-cGRvYZABcf66zClvc9AoVHeJi17k3KP0l8fnVrNtotvkpaawolUIM/s320/Klatrekurs+bre+opp+2,16.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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<i>"More scrambling"</i></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj_FY9apHQTOl6TqwS5A75TkQ7qJwWb2aDcX3b72dVcqZSQWVYa7LqyjdKg86DQSdbvflGtBU9Uwc40_IS-KHbO9h_PTiaPAFLV8RZ7UxSCf9HxnQTLK6i0rCTECGpbI-dvcJiuLBliRPw/s1600/Klatrekurs+bre+opp+2,17.jpg" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" height="426" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj_FY9apHQTOl6TqwS5A75TkQ7qJwWb2aDcX3b72dVcqZSQWVYa7LqyjdKg86DQSdbvflGtBU9Uwc40_IS-KHbO9h_PTiaPAFLV8RZ7UxSCf9HxnQTLK6i0rCTECGpbI-dvcJiuLBliRPw/s320/Klatrekurs+bre+opp+2,17.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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<i>"And then it was over, Dyrhaugsryggen behind us on the right"</i></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiuimMqbemHiVYeRJPDqeDx6-EywknODNy08ZTDd1ifT_xcZaYe7pYzjF3UUDMrAbDpxoddKFQEPd3qts0QXpl9mFPc8cTDYWyGz2brczvQlpI9CjkglVR9ng9VAwxk_O0E5kI3wSChDyY/s1600/Klatrekurs+bre+opp+2,18.jpg" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" height="426" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiuimMqbemHiVYeRJPDqeDx6-EywknODNy08ZTDd1ifT_xcZaYe7pYzjF3UUDMrAbDpxoddKFQEPd3qts0QXpl9mFPc8cTDYWyGz2brczvQlpI9CjkglVR9ng9VAwxk_O0E5kI3wSChDyY/s320/Klatrekurs+bre+opp+2,18.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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<i>"Easy return in the snow"</i></div>
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After getting down from a successful trip in Hurrungane, I have a tradition of getting my group to jump into the natural pool down by Turtagrø. </div>
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The water, directly from the melting snow in the mountains, is either cold or really cold, something I of course never tell people before I get them to jump in.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhGPtle-wCi_mC8uhGNEIwM_KipcqPmcBw8_rDjSUVXFgwlOmQojRhVE52bdxSgh4KF851UZ4lQ42u3pCagGYwMiWzGe4jL_ASYOIlPWfkPVwJ0p8nUpOq_baU8AOFJ6wZ-xO-aJNAerDc/s1600/Klatrekurs+bre+opp+2,19.jpg" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhGPtle-wCi_mC8uhGNEIwM_KipcqPmcBw8_rDjSUVXFgwlOmQojRhVE52bdxSgh4KF851UZ4lQ42u3pCagGYwMiWzGe4jL_ASYOIlPWfkPVwJ0p8nUpOq_baU8AOFJ6wZ-xO-aJNAerDc/s320/Klatrekurs+bre+opp+2,19.jpg" width="426" /></a></div>
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<i>"Sander making a leap of faith"</i></div>
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My mountain summer did not really end here as I went on to instruct on 50% of a glacier instructor course as well, (got no pic´s of that though as it rained the whole time), but as I was taking pictures at "The Battle" in Lillehammer the same weekend, I could not stay for the whole thing.</div>
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My photo gallery from "The Battle" will be up next, stay tuned and feel free to comment! </div>
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Wanghttp://www.blogger.com/profile/14840965362641239826noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5406441149653791722.post-937431378991374092012-12-24T22:29:00.000-08:002012-12-24T22:29:52.550-08:00The summer that was, Part 4!<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
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In part 1, I wrote about the epic canoe trip Ole and I had in Lærdal. At the time I thought the video files where lost on my (still stuck in the mail!) iMac, but as it turns out I had backed them up :) So, after a bit of editing, I am now proud to present the canoe short: </div>
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<a href="https://vimeo.com/55847325">https://vimeo.com/55847325</a></div>
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<b>Part 4</b></h2>
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After some "well deserved" vacation time in Norway, (much needed after a winter of hard redpoint climbing in Spain), it was time to do some (payed) work and start saving up for the coming winter. </div>
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In a time where most of Europe is suffering from one financial crisis or the other it´s great to be Norwegian.</div>
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The Norwegian "krone" is stronger then ever and saving up enough to live in Spain each winter requires a bare minimum of work on my part.</div>
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When I come to think about it, the only reasons I actually have to do a bit of work is because photo and videography is so freaking expensive...</div>
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I worked in a "normal" job (driving a forklift in a warehouse) for about 2 months in one of those long summers of my youth. That is probably the longest I ever did the 9-4 thing. </div>
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Now a days I do all sorts of odd jobs like route-setting, bolting, photo gigs and so on for short amounts of time, and then usually only when I feel like it. </div>
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Mid summer, from the end of june until sometime in august, is the only time a year I work more then a couple of weeks.</div>
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This is when I go to the mountains!</div>
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<img border="0" height="426" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiZvnOcI9imH8iAFTK-eHDctc3YYal0fT9PRpLDH9i3MnAC8K-Z5PDNLiQo5gtPdlDucfYeOLrNi3G8G5W1wa_DS1aiZkaTupjbsAnkGzwy7pNiSH6EkJnPXFkkJYfUNB94xkKMuiil9a8/s640/Fjellsport+2,16.jpg" width="640" /></div>
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<i style="text-align: center;">"My mountain home, "Kassa", parked in front of Hurrungane" </i></div>
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When people ask me what I do up there, I usually just tell them I work as a mountain guide.</div>
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In reality what I do is more coursing then actual guiding. I guess the correct term would be something like a high mountain climbing instructor.</div>
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To those that might wonder, the difference is that while the guide works with clients on one day trips and drags them up on what ever mountain they choose. </div>
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I work with the same people on week long courses where they are supposed to learn something, and maybe more importantly, I get to choose where to go.</div>
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For me personally this makes for a much more diverse and interesting way of taking people up into the mountains. Not only do I get to know the people better and see them progress during the week (which is rewarding on it´s own) but you get away from the grind of doing the same thing every day, and that makes all the difference.</div>
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There are many company´s offering a wide array of courses and guided tours in my part of the mountains "Jotunheimen", and having worked for most of them, my favourite employer is currently Breoppleving. </div>
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Breoppleving (directly translated to something like glacier experience/adventure) have what I think is the best course where, ironically enough, I do not have to do any glacier walking. But I get ahead of myself.</div>
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This summer started as they usually do with a "Fjellsport 1" (Mountainsport 1) course for DNT (The Norwegian Tourist association). I tag along on this course almost every year to get back into the mountain thing and hang out with some of my old instructor buddies Hans Petter Håkonsen and Bjørn Balle. </div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj_blPQ68FoQPzxemvoKah4yDCwmiqpO_V_xCg9luxdSY8trgsQILyJdvPKmsdGclb2GsHxkJa7xYwA9hzh5F99Cd9DHLTNqv7oqJ4ma79lkJ-IQgyu3pUbPADpG_kymoAjo5eu_ZpqoU8/s1600/Fjellsport+1+Juli+8.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em; text-align: center;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj_blPQ68FoQPzxemvoKah4yDCwmiqpO_V_xCg9luxdSY8trgsQILyJdvPKmsdGclb2GsHxkJa7xYwA9hzh5F99Cd9DHLTNqv7oqJ4ma79lkJ-IQgyu3pUbPADpG_kymoAjo5eu_ZpqoU8/s640/Fjellsport+1+Juli+8.jpg" width="426" /></a></div>
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<i style="text-align: center;"> "Petter the pirate"</i></div>
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<i>"Bjørn the bear"</i></div>
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Working with these two guys makes this poorly paid and demanding course worth while. We always have a great time telling jokes, play around and when there are young couples, ruthlessly flirt with the poor guys girlfriend.</div>
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<i>"Bjørn teaches the couple about spotting"</i></div>
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The course itself consists of 2 days on a glacier, 2 days at the crag and 2 days on semi guided mountain trips + 1 evening with meet and greet, going through the gear and so on. </div>
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As I have many courses during the summer I will not bore you with the details of each one but rather display some pictures from the different trips that hopefully showcasts the essence of what it´s all about.</div>
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It should be said that I never bother taking pictures with anything but my heavy 5D rig, and as I rarely bring my camera out if the weather is bad, the pictures tell a story of nice weather, that is not necessarily the case most of the time.</div>
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DNT Fjellsport 1, July, Krossbu, Jotunheimen, (Norway)</h4>
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<i>"On our way to Skeia (2100+ meters) way early in the morning, Hurrungane in the background"</i></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi_eFwg8deBd7ZAQnKViWOFDJv0TFGX61NF130RcTVxD12U0nux3-hEx-zBWFWHDBbTTXVHSNyCk1iLSvTTTP3EjDcrytygZsxCBg4O55CPIEUoUaFesa_5_CKYBskRrZwtnTAu0aF_ubM/s1600/Fjellsport+1,+Bj%C3%B8rnesprang.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="426" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi_eFwg8deBd7ZAQnKViWOFDJv0TFGX61NF130RcTVxD12U0nux3-hEx-zBWFWHDBbTTXVHSNyCk1iLSvTTTP3EjDcrytygZsxCBg4O55CPIEUoUaFesa_5_CKYBskRrZwtnTAu0aF_ubM/s640/Fjellsport+1,+Bj%C3%B8rnesprang.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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<i>"Bjørn attempting "the mountain leap" over the Smørstabtind´s. Skeia is second from the right"</i></div>
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<i>"The ridge between Kalven and Skeia just before I lost my 50mm down in a deep hole..."</i></div>
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I did luckily manage to fish my lens out a week later using some fishing equipment a couple of telescope poles and a spoon, and thanks to Canon´s great build quality the lens was unharmed even after having rolled/fallen down several meters on rocks and literally speaking lain on ice for a week. </div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEheQSKU0yA7Gr-bHLA_INn5ee9AtulprFA0udSGBhU5GWYzHsY5_nLNsfRecTiZTmB-0GqcYG8ND1PScskf8NjErU2-Qp8P9pQ_YwVAxb_jiBRIpiaR80nROUdUxlcU85wU-isoNbyc7kg/s1600/Fjellsport+1%252C4.jpg" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" height="426" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEheQSKU0yA7Gr-bHLA_INn5ee9AtulprFA0udSGBhU5GWYzHsY5_nLNsfRecTiZTmB-0GqcYG8ND1PScskf8NjErU2-Qp8P9pQ_YwVAxb_jiBRIpiaR80nROUdUxlcU85wU-isoNbyc7kg/s320/Fjellsport+1%252C4.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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<i>"At the base of the climbing, Skeia rising up in the left corner of the picture" </i><br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgyLdJsy2cuwN_rDP4VlALDilq7yoYLpddYC2YgddFL7RTtIs6Gj6n4lQZpxKzMGUwkaCkgpu19klY3XlTQw90DoHZvavu-yO2NyyGL_kmPMylCdd8Frh5LK-qy97kzkhM6xLaOa-vpwsg/s1600/Fjellsport+1,+nytur.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgyLdJsy2cuwN_rDP4VlALDilq7yoYLpddYC2YgddFL7RTtIs6Gj6n4lQZpxKzMGUwkaCkgpu19klY3XlTQw90DoHZvavu-yO2NyyGL_kmPMylCdd8Frh5LK-qy97kzkhM6xLaOa-vpwsg/s640/Fjellsport+1,+nytur.jpg" width="426" /></a></div>
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<i>"Climbing (a new variation) on Skeia"</i><br />
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"<i>The couple we decided to play around with, here coiling the ropes after finishing the climbing"</i></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgBBRYXD9YDaRFHyEoxcXLBYe5SLL3C_lFgBj0kegZI33I48tlHKIi5JgPzruszwSWRPf9tSrwK3KQCB51yhzSFN69dhcP0T8DbMRY6jaOwLEhzCYvssWesJCeI1kVbDluK7s29FllGCkE/s1600/Fjellsport+1%252C6.jpg" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" height="426" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgBBRYXD9YDaRFHyEoxcXLBYe5SLL3C_lFgBj0kegZI33I48tlHKIi5JgPzruszwSWRPf9tSrwK3KQCB51yhzSFN69dhcP0T8DbMRY6jaOwLEhzCYvssWesJCeI1kVbDluK7s29FllGCkE/s320/Fjellsport+1%252C6.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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<i>"The girlfriend posing for my camera after skilfully having been separated from her boyfriend"</i></div>
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The second mountain on this course was Store Austabotntind (2200+ meters). The weather was not great, and as one of the guys got sick I got to turn back and lead him back down after just an hour and a half.<br />
Forgetting that my car keys was locked into another car then the one we borrowed to drive back to camp, I ended up spending a couple of hours learning how to break into my own car instead.<br />
This was surprisingly easy using the oil measuring pin and a Swiss army knife (Macgyver style) to fish pick the lock wire at the front window.<br />
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<h4 style="text-align: left;">
Breoppleving Fjellsport, July, Lom/Hurrungane, Jotunheimen</h4>
After finishing the Fjellsport 1 course for DNT, I was off to solo instructing (something I prefer to avoid as it is more work and responsibility) on a 3 person customised "Fjellsport" course for Breoppleving.<br />
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Since I had lost a camera lens up on Skeia the week before I brought my new group up there as well so that I could fish it back out (which I did!).<br />
It was snowing almost all the way down to Krossbu and we saw no more then 10 meters in front of us all day. The climbing was suddenly in "winter" conditions with ice and snow all around, but I got no pictures of that as the camera remained in the car.<br />
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The second trip got canceled as two of the three had to go home and the last girl bailed as the weather forecast was horrible.<br />
We did however get a few nice days down at the crag in Lom where I set them to work on multipitch trad climbing.<br />
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<i>"The first pitch, grade 4-ish"</i></div>
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<i>"The second pitch, grade 3-ish, "hanging" belay in a tree 20 meters off the deck"</i></div>
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<i>"Great view of the "Lom delta" from the top of Tronoberget" </i></div>
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<h4 style="text-align: left;">
Breoppleving Klatrekurs i Lom og Hurrungane, July, Hurrungane, Jotunheimen</h4>
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Next up was my favourite course, Klatrekurs i Lom/Hurrungane, (Climbing course in Lom and Hurrungane).<br />
This course gives me the opportunity to hang out in Lom and climb at the crag for 2-3 days, got no glacier coursing and only contains 2 "hard" days of walking in the mountains. </div>
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The mountain climbing is of course great, but the problem is the long walk in and out. To get to the climbing we usually have to hike 1000 vertical meters up before we even tie in. Then walking the same or more back down is a killer on my knees if I do it often.</div>
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Breoppleving usually attracts a reasonably young clientele with the occasional 40 year old here and there. This time for some strange reason the occasional 40 year olds all ended up on the same course, making for an unusual but great week for me with both a dinner inside the way expensive hotel Turtagrø and a tip at the end of the course.</div>
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Added to this I got an apprentice to look out for and give a written review.</div>
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The groupe dynamics where great, my apprentice could take care of herself and for the first and hardest trip, we got lucky with the weather. The goal was Dyrhaugsryggen from the south and yes, I brought my camera. </div>
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<i>"The exposed first pitch in the morning fog" </i></div>
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<i>"The fog lifting as we reach the third belay"</i></div>
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<i>"My apprentice leading up the crux pitch"</i></div>
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<i>"Following on the "crux", </i><span style="text-align: left;"><i>Norway's third highest mountain Store Skagadølstind (2405m) in the back"</i></span></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj8xdjHkvAiRNeb_J3yHoo67x2WqeXDoPLRx7gC-XgE3S3DN3JEwOtn1rcOGAF7eXaSpQdw-GFKcpMW9Te8L5XHbcX3UNFimiPuASSsWyvvZnndGMQqWrbHZcv0a8z3lt_KFxYcFTgqvoA/s1600/Klatrekurs+bre+opp+1,5.jpg" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" height="426" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj8xdjHkvAiRNeb_J3yHoo67x2WqeXDoPLRx7gC-XgE3S3DN3JEwOtn1rcOGAF7eXaSpQdw-GFKcpMW9Te8L5XHbcX3UNFimiPuASSsWyvvZnndGMQqWrbHZcv0a8z3lt_KFxYcFTgqvoA/s320/Klatrekurs+bre+opp+1,5.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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<i>"Moving out of the "chimney" on the final pitch"</i></div>
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"Mountain jumping!"</div>
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<i>"Leaping the Skagadølstind" </i></div>
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(I sold a similar picture last year that now hangs on big national park posters down in Lom.)</div>
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<i>"A happy crew at the end of the Dyrhaugsrygg traverse"</i><span style="text-align: left;"><i> </i></span></div>
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On the final trip we went to "Store Austabotntind" at 2200+ meters. The weather was bad with a strong wind, fog and rain/snow. One girl bailed at the beginning because of the weather and all the slippery rocks and on the final ridge a second decided to turn back. My apprentice waited with him in a survival bag (as seen here in one of the only pictures I tok that day) while I ran to the top and back with the only guy left standing.<br />
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"Close but no cigar, a few hundred meters from the top"</div>
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While walking off the mountain, marking the end of the course, my next group was already gathering down at the car park.. </div>
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Tired, wet and cold I entered the camp to welcome the new crew while still saying my farewells to the old. </div>
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With no downtime I was now starting the dreaded hardest course of the summer, Fjellsport II for DNT. 5 days + 1 evening, a one day trip and a two day trip (with sleeping out in the mountain!), one day on a glacier and just one "rest" day at the crag... </div>
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But in the spirit of not making epic long blog posts I will keep the story of the rest of my mountain summer for Part 5.</div>
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Stay tuned and marry christmas!</div>
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Wanghttp://www.blogger.com/profile/14840965362641239826noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5406441149653791722.post-44455326617184290272012-12-14T06:22:00.002-08:002012-12-14T06:24:34.344-08:00A brief glance at the present while still lingering in the past..<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
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My ambitions to update the blog to the present before things started happening down here in Spain did (as you probably know by now) not really go as planed..<br />
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Basically since we got down here the house has been crowded with people and things have been happening left and right.<br />
It started out with loads of wet holds in the cave and nothing going down the first week and a half. Then it finally dried up in one windy night and Hannah, looking very strong, immediately sent her long time project, la Novena Puerta (8c+).<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEif-RHWuLVQXMseTXhYNC7MeXW26DC5_2aTZhdFTic6gs-pX4XUqkbVTNA-69zwAhOTuauRDs0ijr1pWqr2xnzvNMVsC_gJ-ImuyG7MaemEuhbMz7oXhvVlmKK6sG_l-euBP6DHjyLs7hg/s1600/Novena+18.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="426" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEif-RHWuLVQXMseTXhYNC7MeXW26DC5_2aTZhdFTic6gs-pX4XUqkbVTNA-69zwAhOTuauRDs0ijr1pWqr2xnzvNMVsC_gJ-ImuyG7MaemEuhbMz7oXhvVlmKK6sG_l-euBP6DHjyLs7hg/s640/Novena+18.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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"Hannah getting close to the mid rest 8b+/8c on one of her attempts in the spring" <span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: x-small; text-align: justify;">©Henning Wang</span></div>
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La Novena Puerta (The Ninth Gate) is the first part of La Novena Enmienda 9a/+ that Magnus did back in the day (the Magnus video can be found here:)<br />
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<a href="http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pRHSd4Q7Tq0">http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pRHSd4Q7Tq0</a><br />
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Hannah´s accent was the first female accent of the route, the hardest route climbed by a girl in the Santa Linya cave, basically one of the hardest climbs done by a girl in all of Spain.<br />
I will not say the world, as I have no way to compare the routes here to the routes in for instance the Red River George, (or the much harder routes Jousune climbed in Switzerland back in the day) so I will leave it at Spain.<br />
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Previously two Austrian girls (Johanna and Angela) have climbed "8c+" in Santa Linya, but as the routes in question never actually was 8c+ I will say that Hannah is the first to do a proper one here.<br />
To those climbing geeks out there that wonder wtf I´m talking about I will give a short explanation for my conclusions:<br />
- Angela did Ingravids Eskerpes Extension before the hold broke (much easier crux section), basically about as hard as Rollito Sharma Extension is now (8c).<br />
- Johanna did Open your Mind that has the strange guidebook grade of 8c/+. People log it at 8a.nu as 8c+ for the points, but the reality is that its about the same as Fabelita (8c) and much easier then Fabela (8c+), the benchmark routes going out from the same start... <br />
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But enough about the present, I am telling a story of the past :)<br />
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<b><span style="font-size: large;">The Summer that was, Part 3!</span></b></h2>
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Now in my story of the summer that was I had just retuned from Flatanger to Sogndal to take some pictures of Rockstar Adam Ondra crushing Lars Ole´s routes at Kvam. (se the summer that was, part 2)<br />
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It was then time for the great yearly boulder comp at the extreme sports week at Voss, and with a rainy weather forecast, we got Adam to tag along.<br />
The money prices here are fairly good and Magnus usually turns up to take it home. With Adam now in the comp and a short notice for the route-setters, the stage was set for a great show.<br />
As per usual I brought my camera along and shot some video when I did not climb myself.<br />
A bit limited by time and other projects here I decided to just make a short quick clip from the finals:<br />
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<a href="https://vimeo.com/55346093">https://vimeo.com/55346093</a><br />
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I also helped out filming Dag Hagen from the Norwegian climbing magazine (Norsk Klatring) do an interview with Adam about his tour of Norway. Fun to watch as we now know that he would go on to put up possibly the hardest route in the world in Flatanger!<br />
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<a href="https://vimeo.com/45354680">https://vimeo.com/45354680</a><br />
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Voss has been one of the best Norwegian boulder comps for a long time, mainly because the most important criteria for a comp is usually met, that is, good climbers actually show up..<br />
The route-setting is good and the atmosphere great even thought the comp has been plagued by rain the last few years.<br />
How ever there is a couple of huge flaws that, even thought I love to compete there, will not see me compete again (at least not until the issues are dealt with...) <br />
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- Flaw one: The entry fee... This year it was up to staggering 425 kr (58 euros)! for about 1 hour of bouldering, that is one hour for the most of us that have no shot at the final and the money prices...<br />
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- Flaw two: The party fee... a one day pass to the festival is about 500+ kr, almost half the price of the entire week, making it way to expensive to go into the festival tent when you only come for the boulder comp (I did how ever manage to sneak in and not pay anything, but that is besides the point).<br />
The summary I guess is that Voss is a great comp, but one that I can no longer afford to go to...<br />
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Wanghttp://www.blogger.com/profile/14840965362641239826noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5406441149653791722.post-7615211031944745552012-11-21T11:32:00.000-08:002013-01-24T03:19:53.166-08:00Flatanger!<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
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Aka. The summer that was, part 2</div>
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I first visited Hanshelleren in Flatanger about 5-6 years ago. </div>
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Back then I was recovering from a broken arm, and in a weekend I only just managed to get up a 7a+..</div>
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Fortunately much has happened since then:) </div>
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As I was driving up from Sogndal in my, still clinging to life, VW Camper, I was really psyched to view the cave again with new "stronger" eyes.</div>
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Flatanger has gotten a lot of focus in the climbing media this year, this of course mainly because of the best rock climber in the world today, Adam Ondra, establishing the worlds first 9b+ here this fall. (Yes that´s right, the hardest route in the world is now in Norway!)</div>
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Because of this I find that a lot of people think this is a newly discovered area, and that the cave itself is called Flatanger.</div>
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I will correct that right now... Flatanger is the name of the area, an area with several walls and loads of potential for more, the cave itself is called Hanshelleren.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjCAi-sHr47u4BoBE6jDJagcwLMFfH4NTOhU_xk573zM3TK7l20K3I8rH0uVHnnrT-QD8F5tUxG_jOwmj_IuHOXNqErb8xX_2hKDljheNkDBi3qzn4m1fSk_L-WufYRb2fdyid-Q2UwvYM/s1600/Flatanger+(8+of+17).jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em; text-align: center;"><img border="0" height="426" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjCAi-sHr47u4BoBE6jDJagcwLMFfH4NTOhU_xk573zM3TK7l20K3I8rH0uVHnnrT-QD8F5tUxG_jOwmj_IuHOXNqErb8xX_2hKDljheNkDBi3qzn4m1fSk_L-WufYRb2fdyid-Q2UwvYM/s640/Flatanger+(8+of+17).jpg" width="640" /></a><br />
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<i style="text-align: center;"> </i><i style="text-align: center;">"Jarle looking up at Hanshelleren, some of the other walls in Flatanger in the background" </i></div>
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It is not really a new area either, people have been climbing in Hanshelleren for about 20 years, that is longer then Adam Ondra has been alive:) </div>
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<i>"Støm in Flatanger seen from the </i><span style="text-align: left;"><i>approach to Hanshelleren. The festival camp at the farm to the left"</i></span></div>
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Before it´s recent attention, the hardest route in Hanshelleren was no harder then 8b. This due to Flatanger being in the middle of nowhere, around a 3 hours drive from the nearest city (whit a community of climbers), Trondheim, my hometown, and of course the fact that Norwegians before Magnus Midtbø never reached a level higher then 8c.. </div>
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In Hanshelleren, like in most cave features, the wall gets less steep towards the sides. The sidewall here is still overhanging, huge, well featured and would be a great crag on it´s own. And yes, you guessed it, this is where the old routes are mainly located.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhENKl_XiEv8AoxLppUFYXAH6s3AEQJykUWeZPTA9dd66YmmUXpJx4jqNu9WnmxMjh0tzpG5HDSFebSQsOc0aFgqjVWjR7lj74kXwFcWjsURh5hmdkipEZ92cS-ljFrD1v2c-kLUYkFgRU/s1600/Flatanger+(1+of+1).jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em; text-align: center;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhENKl_XiEv8AoxLppUFYXAH6s3AEQJykUWeZPTA9dd66YmmUXpJx4jqNu9WnmxMjh0tzpG5HDSFebSQsOc0aFgqjVWjR7lj74kXwFcWjsURh5hmdkipEZ92cS-ljFrD1v2c-kLUYkFgRU/s640/Flatanger+(1+of+1).jpg" width="426" /></a></div>
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<span style="font-style: italic;">"Malin Holmberg at the final anchor (not even half way up the wall) of kykkelikokos </span><span style="font-style: italic;">(7b+, 30m) </span><span style="font-style: italic;">on Hanshellerens sidewall"</span></div>
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<i>"Magnus belaying Jakob on the second accent of Helt på Kanten 8a, the sidewall in the background"</i></div>
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<i>"Jakob on the second accent of Helt på Kanten 8a, the inner part of the cave behind him"</i></div>
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The inner part of the cave, now featuring the hardest lines, was mostly left alone as something for the future. </div>
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In light of resent events, or more to the point, accents, I guess one can say that that future is now upon us.</div>
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<i>"Lars Ole trying the first "hard" new line inside the cave, Nordic Flower 8c/+"</i></div>
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My trip to Flatanger this year (late june) was unfortunately not just to hang out and climb, but also to work as an instructor at the climbing festival.</div>
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This meant that I could not climb in the cave during some of the best conditions in the morning and during the day, but had to wait until the evening on most of my days. </div>
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Still, getting payed to be there and getting to do some climbing is not such a bad deal :)</div>
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On my first day in the cave I immediately got on a old project left by a friend of mine (Steini).</div>
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I got some beta from Tarjei that it was sharp and that the start was very hard or even unclimbed, but as the rest of the wall was in the sun, I decided to give it a go anyway and decide for myself. </div>
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To my eyes the project looked both doable and not to sharp. It also offered the potentially to make a hard first accent.</div>
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The start did indeed involve maybe the hardest move on the whole route, but after a few tries we found a weird almost above the head kneebar beta that somehow worked.</div>
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I got in a few goes, but after falling in the redpoint crux in the middle a few times, I realised I would need at least another day to get it done. </div>
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<i>"Me on the redpoint crux undercling sequence"</i></div>
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When Sindre and Jarle then showed up keen to try, I did not see any point in trying to keep them from it, after all the route was an open project. </div>
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After Sindre and Jarle had gone through the moves once, Magnus also showed up and asked if he could have an on-sight attempt.</div>
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As I mentioned before the start boulder was super weird and technical and I had serious doubts that even Magnus would be able to figure it out on-sight. </div>
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<i>"Magnus on-sight on the technical start crux"</i></div>
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Magnus, more technical then he maybe gets credit for, showed skills and found the kneebar after just a little hanging around. After the start he easily managed to muscle his way through the rest for the on-sight first accent of Dverg Trollet 8a+ (norwegian 9-/9).</div>
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<i>"Magnus on-sighting the final crux of Dverg Trollet 8a+ on the first accent"</i></div>
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Sindre then closely followed with a second accent. </div>
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<i>"Sindre at the end of the mid crux on</i><i> the second accent of </i><i>Dverg Trollet 8a+"</i><br />
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I came back 2 more evenings, once with Lars Ole who got the third accent, and at last again with Sindre before I finally managed to get up as number 4, the first accent long forgotten, just happy to get up:)<br />
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As I was teaching on the more beginner friendly walls down by the festival camp during the "Pro comp" on Odins Eye, I did not get any pictures of Magnus, Ethan or Dani´s attempts.. </div>
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After the festival I did how ever get up in my rope to capture Ethan Pringle´s first accent of his monster 50 meter link-up route, Nordic Plummer (8c+).</div>
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The Plummer starts in Nordic Flower and climbs most of the hard first part of this (8b+) before branching of into a 7b+-ish new section of 4-5 bolts put up by Ethan before joining the second pitch of Magnus project, a super pumpy 8b. </div>
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(The full two pitches of Magnus project was later done by Adam Ondra and named Thors Hammer 9a+.) </div>
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<i>"Ethan bolting the link. First anchor of Thors to the left, the draws going right is Nordic" </i></div>
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<i>"Ethan in one of the many kneebars people don´t seem to find on the first part of Nordic Flower"</i></div>
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<i>"Ethan using some funky beta on the second crux of Nordic Flower part 1 (8b+)"</i></div>
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<i>"Ethan in the middle of Thors Hammers second pitch. The belayers tiny head can be seen down in the middle of the picture"</i></div>
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<i>"Ethan still looking strong after 40 meters in the roof" </i></div>
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<i>"Ethan on his first link attempt just before pumping out on the final crux rail"</i></div>
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<i>"Ethan on the final pumpy crux rail on the first accent of Nordic Plummer 8c+" </i></div>
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Wanghttp://www.blogger.com/profile/14840965362641239826noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5406441149653791722.post-48976414681487923302012-11-17T03:53:00.001-08:002012-11-18T07:44:51.258-08:00A summary of the summer that was<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
A bad internet connection (and then I mean back to the 90´s bad!) at the casa in Santa Linya + a tendency to write time consuming small essays, not short blog posts... made me give up on the blogging once more after the January post.<br />
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Now equipped with a brand new Macbook Pro (with Retina and shit!), I am able to go out to where the good internet can be found:) If I find it I´ll give the blogging another go.<br />
This time (as the previous times of course) with every intention of keeping my posts somewhat brief in words with some pictures and maybe a video thrown in every now and again.<br />
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What happened in Spain the last 4 months after January I will not even try to get into, <br />
but some small parts of it can be found on the blogs of friends:<br />
http://mariasandbu.blogspot.no/2012_03_01_archive.html<br />
http://matilda-soderlund.blogspot.com.es/2012/04/hola.html<br />
http://hannahmidtboe.blogspot.no/<br />
http://www.magnusmidtboe.com/category/outdoor/<br />
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Since past events have a tendency to affect the present and the future o_O. Some bits and pieces of this "black information hole" might appear in a "flashback" kinda way once I get to the present and this years happenings down here in Spain.<br />
Until then, what ever happened, is for me to know and you to ....<br />
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I will start this new (not counting) attempt at blogging (as the title would suggest) somewhere around the beginning of the summer a month or two after having returned from Spain.<br />
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Since I haven´t just been chilling, I will make it as brief as I can and probably forget or just skip a lot to catch up to the present.<br />
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<b><span style="font-size: x-large;">The summer that was, part 1</span></b><br />
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The day after I returned to Sogndal, I went out with my good friend Ole Karsten Birkeland to bolt some new routes at a crag called Hønjum in Lærdal. The crag had 3 routes from before but had been abandoned for a long time (5-10 years or something).<br />
The local farmer wanted climbers to come (the wall is like 30 meters from he´s house), so he had called Ole a week before, and now we where there.<br />
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It is not known what had been climbed of the old routes, but since there was some tape in the first bolt on one of them (and no chalk even tho it never gets wet) I am guessing at least that one was unclimbed.<br />
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After cleaning all the holds I sent it within a few tries and it became Jedi Mind Tricks 7c+, a future super classic for sure (if people actually go there that is...)<br />
3/4 is mainly a crack climb (and I am quite sure it could be climbed on gear...), but since bolts where in already and we where unsure of the rock quality, I used the bolts. (For shame!) I am psyched to come back and do it clean on gear next spring tho, but having used the bolts to work it I will leave them in.<br />
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Here are a few pictures of Ole Karsten and Anders on the route.<br />
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<i>"Ole eyeing up the "jug" at the top of the crack"</i> </div>
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<i>"Anders enjoying the rest at the top of the crack"</i></div>
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<i> "Anders faces the really funky mantel move after the crack part"</i><br />
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<i>"Ole just before he slipped of the funky mantel move"</i></div>
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The new routes we bolted are all either easy, unfinished or hard projects we where not able to do in the few days we spent there.</div>
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Here is a picture of my team mate and local talent Olav on one of the old routes we figured was around 7a (or was it +?) </div>
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<i>"Team Vertikal climber Olav the talent"</i></div>
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Sogndal is a great place to be in the spring. Climbing conditions can be really good, and there is still snow in the mountains.<br />
On the Norwegian nations birthday (May 17), Ole and I decided against standing downtown all dressed up waving our flags and went up on one of the local mountains (25 min drive) to ski.<br />
As much a nationalistic way of celebrating the country as any amount of flag waving in my book.<br />
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For me this was the first (and only) skiing trip this season. As far as I can remember I didn´t ski at all the year before, and as I am now back in Spain, this ski season will probably pass me by as well.<br />
No matter, I still managed to both get up the mountain and down, rock the telemark turn with the proficiency of a scared novice and somehow not fall even thought I really should have several times.<br />
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<i>"Ole at the parking, the mountain way off in the back there somewhere"</i></div>
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<i>"Ole doing he´s thing"</i></div>
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About a week later, Ole and I went back across the fjord to Lærdal. This time to do some white water river canoeing.</div>
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Canoeing was something we both did when we studied "Outdoor life" or "Friluftsliv" in Bø in Telemark. I did it on a few trips one year, Ole did it a bit more over 2 years, but after that none of us had been back in a canoe..<br />
Something that meant we where in the 5-10 years whit out practice group that think they´r still really good at it. </div>
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When I come to think about it, I doubt I was ever really good at in the first place, at least that was what hit me when I found myself in some freezing cold water next to the canoe in a grade 3 rapid desperately trying to find a way out.</div>
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The whole trip was my kind of classic "epic". We picked up a couple of huge open flat water canoes from the early 90´s, drove up to what seemed like a never ending rapid with loads of big waves (much bigger then what we ever encountered back in Bø). Did next to no scouting of what came after the initial never ending rapid, and just went for it.</div>
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I am sad to say I have no pictures.. I did do some gopro filming, but the camera drowned when the casing broke (shit happens when you flip the canoe and the camera starts hitting the rocks...)</div>
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The clip of the flip is kinda funny, but I will have to add that later as it is stored on the iMac that at the moment is traveling in the mail somewhere between Norway and Spain.</div>
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We did manage pretty well, Ole stayed out of the water (he got lucky basically..), while I went swimming twice... The second time because we got bored of stopping to empty the boats and to much water spilled in. The canoe decided to sink after we cleared the last rapid and where supposed to be home free down in the fjord...</div>
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<i>"Since I have no picture, here is a random shot of Sogndal at night from around the same time"</i></div>
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After our little river adventure it was back to business as usual, climbing:) </div>
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I don´t remember that much of the when and where´s, but I know we where a bit all over the place those few weeks the really good conditions lasted.<br />
One of those good days where at Beachen in Stryn whit Ole and Ragnhild, where I managed to onsight warm up on a 7b/+ bouldery route and then go on to flash Aloha (7b+) and onsight Frimureren (7c) before catching a bus to Trondheim for the celebration of my grandmothers 90-th!!! birthday. </div>
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<i>"Ole working Luhr på Tur 7c+, Beachen"</i></div>
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Once I returned from Trondheim the good conditions had gone and summer heat seemed to have set in.<br />
Lead climbing was out of the picture, but reasonably good conditions could still be found on some of Lars Ole´s newly discovered boulders.<br />
Being my usual weak self, I found the new "main" boulder way hard, and after a few session with little progress I gave up, deciding it was time I got back on plastic to recover some of that lost bouldering strength I probably never possessed in the first place.<br />
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<i>"Lars Ole on the lower part of the main project line (Plomme something?) 8A+/8B-ish"</i></div>
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I did not spend that much time indoors thought before I again found myself hanging outside in a rope.<br />
This time to reequip some of the best crags on the western coast of Norway, Avsnes and Myggveggen with my friend Jarle Kalland for the Norwegian climbing federation (NKF). <br />
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<i>"Not exactly how it went down maybe, but close enough:) photo by Hannah Midtbø"</i></div>
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A video I made for the Norwegian Climbing federation from the project can be seen here:<br />
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<iframe allowfullscreen="allowfullscreen" frameborder="0" height="281" mozallowfullscreen="mozallowfullscreen" src="http://player.vimeo.com/video/49849266?badge=0" webkitallowfullscreen="webkitallowfullscreen" width="500"></iframe> <a href="" nbsp="nbsp" p="p"><br />
or at: https://vimeo.com/49849266</a></div>
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Sometime around there Ole and I went down to Bergen for a few days to watch Børres deep water competition and of course do some climbing of our own. </div>
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I forgot to upload pictures from the comp here when I was at the faster internet earlier, but some of the best can be seen in one of the last issues of the norwegian climbing magazine Norsk Klatring.</div>
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In Bergen I also managed to flash a 7c+ Ole seemed to be struggling with, something that never fails to bring me loads of joy and Ole a lot of frustration and pressure to get up.</div>
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Ole did somehow manage to pull him self together and get up the route, the way I remember it, much to both he´s own and my surprise.</div>
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After Bergen I returned to Myggveggen with Hannah, Jarle, (one guy I can´t remember the name of now, sorry!), Kiffen and Knut´n to try some of the routes I did not get to climb on while Jarle and I where bolting.</div>
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The conditions and amount of "knott" (small extremely annoying mini mosquitos) changed a lot during the few days we where there, but during some of those windows with reasonably good conditions we where able to send a couple of really good routes:)</div>
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<i>"Jarle on the manufactured Material Tetthet (8b), </i><i>a testament to a darker side of 90´s ethics</i><i>" </i></div>
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<i>"Me on the classic Helse i Fokus 7c+/8a"</i></div>
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<i>"Hannah on Antarktis 8a/+, one of the best routes I´v climbed in Norway"</i></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiK8h75ChZ8m6y07uHHCxs1KMCwc53cwn_oflvRVb-U49HKoDIKekjVsynoOq7YQceAiRCF-QiU_fsA-PHyBHj1VtS0VWoyYxjQYY_Y3x0LDyAwB0l5OFPZTihy7Rm8z2ukyGAIsdcao5Y/s1600/blogg+%252815+of+16%2529.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="426" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiK8h75ChZ8m6y07uHHCxs1KMCwc53cwn_oflvRVb-U49HKoDIKekjVsynoOq7YQceAiRCF-QiU_fsA-PHyBHj1VtS0VWoyYxjQYY_Y3x0LDyAwB0l5OFPZTihy7Rm8z2ukyGAIsdcao5Y/s640/blogg+%252815+of+16%2529.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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<i>"Hannah on the last part of Antarktis on her crazy in the middle of the sun send"</i></div>
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Sometime not to long after this I went up to Flatanger for the festival. I worked much of the time so missed the "pro comp" on Odins Eye, but still managed to get some climbs done and get some, in my opinion, really cool pictures (just none from Odin Eye....).<br />
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I will upload some of the pics and write a bit more about that and "rockstar" Adam Ondra´s visit to Sogndal in a few days for part 2 of "the summer that was", so stay tuned:)</div>
Wanghttp://www.blogger.com/profile/14840965362641239826noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5406441149653791722.post-81318368771942141692012-01-26T11:08:00.000-08:002012-02-06T17:29:34.111-08:00The Heat<span style="font-weight: bold;font-size:130%;" >January</span><br /><br />Sindre left the 12-th, Therese the 13 (friday the 13-th) and Martin and Maria the 14-th. Then came the HEAT...<br /><br />In winter the sun is low, covering the entire cave until one hour before dark when the shade takes over. Later in spring the sun rises and the inner part of the cave stay´s in the shade most of the day.<br />Normal mid winter conditions is cold and climbing in the sun is both nice and almost the only option.<br />This winter has so far been abnormally warm, but the last weeks of January was extreme. The sun made it feel like late spring, but without the option of hiding in the shade...<br /><br />We tried to climb in the sun, but even Hannah who usually deals with heat much better then me, was struggling just working moves.<br />Giving up on climbing in the sun, we where left with 1-1,5 hours of light in the shade in the evening before it got pitch black.<br />To compensate for this lack of climbing time in the cave, I started going to the easier sector Fútbolin just up the road from the village.<br />This wall gets more air flow and is in general not as warm as the cave. The hardest route is a very soft 8a, but the mainly the routes are in the 6b-7b range. After a few days I have so far climbing all but two routes (a 7b and a 7c).<br /><div style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhUy2tcBnkp-oWDP4C-WrPOBTArAN876NP8k7r0IkybS85V7BYkqBfINbLhf1yH6NatnFQJuyqfzBTG2MAWyrL0Mnkn94Zm0Q1Mn0as8W-wauGpRC5TF-YYX58WrbFU7Exz20RIHcZB1-s/s1600/Tobias+Futbolin.jpg"><img style="display: block; margin: 0px auto 10px; text-align: center; cursor: pointer; width: 267px; height: 400px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhUy2tcBnkp-oWDP4C-WrPOBTArAN876NP8k7r0IkybS85V7BYkqBfINbLhf1yH6NatnFQJuyqfzBTG2MAWyrL0Mnkn94Zm0Q1Mn0as8W-wauGpRC5TF-YYX58WrbFU7Exz20RIHcZB1-s/s400/Tobias+Futbolin.jpg" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5706136326183034930" border="0" /></a><span style="font-style: italic;">"Tobias on Spanglish (7a+) @ Fútbolin last spring"<br /></span></div><br />Hoping to find conditions elsewhere we then went to Rodellar.<br />Rodellar is normally wet in the winter, but because of the warm weather and lack of rain this year, the entire valley was completely dry!<br />Wanting to climb at Ventanas we left Santa Linya early in the morning and after driving for 1 hour and 50 min we where there at 10.30.<br />The middle and right part of Ventanas get´s sun this time a year, but only in the morning. More psyched for the routes to the left, we decided to try climbing in the shade.<br /><br />The shady wall felt great, so I decided to warm up by trying to onsight the 7a+ "La del Taco" all the way to the left on the wall.<br />At the second bolt I realized my mistake as all feeling disappeared from my hands and feet. Hoping to be able to recover on better holds higher up, I kept going.<br />I did get to some better holds, but upon touching the wall, feeling was again lost.<br />From there I ended up battling my way up horrible technical sneaky climbing with no feeling all the way to the chain, returning to the ground feeling flash pumped but still not really warm.<br /><br />Not really sure what to get on next, I ended up trying the 8a/+ "La Rubia y el Empujador" as there where quickdraws in all the way.<br />Figuring I had nothing to lose by trying to onsight as far as possible, I tied in and went for it.<br />I passed the third bolt and did some big slap moves into a tufa.<br />Once again losing feeling in my hands and climbed into a hopeless position, I looked down.<br /> To my horror, the gate of the third draw had failed to close, now a good meter or so below my feet, the rope was running free all the way down to the second bolt.<br />Now, no longer feeling my hands, I desperately tried to down climb. Having done a huge move to end up in the position I was in, I failed, and came off.<br /> Catching massive air and seeing the ground coming at me, the rope finally caught, smashing me hard into the wall half a meter of the deck.<br />Felling lucky not to break anything, I limped away from the route with a bruised left heel and hand.<br />Hannah then tied in, going bolt to bolt trying to warm up. Failing that she came down frustrated, still cold after going through two thirds of the route.<br /><div style="text-align: center;"><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgYPjhtwr4oyvWVWze_d2oFhWXokZpTi5k7ec641tL3j_pCJbHHL7aSEm6Ca1NPnJt98ZubAbNZfUAfm6ltA6x9yxzhSdXOhvwdTLT1aFWpmviLEwfDN0Wis0AuXoBSZlYLaLLQk1HnIdw/s1600/1+day+in+Rodellar.jpg"><img style="display: block; margin: 0px auto 10px; text-align: center; cursor: pointer; width: 267px; height: 400px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgYPjhtwr4oyvWVWze_d2oFhWXokZpTi5k7ec641tL3j_pCJbHHL7aSEm6Ca1NPnJt98ZubAbNZfUAfm6ltA6x9yxzhSdXOhvwdTLT1aFWpmviLEwfDN0Wis0AuXoBSZlYLaLLQk1HnIdw/s400/1+day+in+Rodellar.jpg" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5706191973403449634" border="0" /></a><span style="font-style: italic;">"The dark wall of Ventanas seen from the base of Espirit Rebel"<br /></span></div><br />Tired of the cold in the shade, we then went over to the Delfín roof, one of the few things still in the sun.<br />Hannah did el Delfín (7c+) in the spring, I fell on the last hard move on the flash and never got on it again.<br />I figured it was time for a rematch, but the route proved resilient. The first attempt, not remembering much and not having climbed for hours, I soon got numb hands and ended up with the wrong hand on a hold in the final roof.<br />I tried to pull through, but slightly missing the next hold, I came flying off. I then tested the moves a bit, before going for it again.<br />This time, feeling much more tired, I climbed through the roof to the last move, stalling out not seeing the pocket and unsure of where to place my feet. I ended up trying to place a heelhook, but it slipped and I came off once again...<br /><br />It was getting dark so we headed up to Kalandraka to see if we could stay there for the night. The refugio is winter closed, but by calling a phone number they are supposed to come and open the dorm.<br />Unfortunately for us they did not answer the phone...<br />Not psyched to sleep in the car, and not aware of the open hotel just down the road, we then ended up driving all the way back to Santa Linya.<br /><div style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgMNKyekq-hJg0YvWEa-FGLOMwpiWUTmCHU7BYqzZ_cCfY2Ajr-5hwqkVhtni2uxG7UbkJ4A8WmARQCQfgr2xa31KBKMdRHSP30f0vXJqrHQ2Fn3bGTbKKaW4mFURs6sJZ2mwAQJ5u_-9w/s1600/Santa+Linya+lommelykt.jpg"><img style="display: block; margin: 0px auto 10px; text-align: center; cursor: pointer; width: 400px; height: 267px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgMNKyekq-hJg0YvWEa-FGLOMwpiWUTmCHU7BYqzZ_cCfY2Ajr-5hwqkVhtni2uxG7UbkJ4A8WmARQCQfgr2xa31KBKMdRHSP30f0vXJqrHQ2Fn3bGTbKKaW4mFURs6sJZ2mwAQJ5u_-9w/s400/Santa+Linya+lommelykt.jpg" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5702021279757043602" border="0" /></a><span style="font-style: italic;">"Headlamp writing during a timelaps in Santa Linya"<br /></span></div>Wanghttp://www.blogger.com/profile/14840965362641239826noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5406441149653791722.post-80462805651991558892012-01-20T12:23:00.000-08:002012-01-23T23:06:26.649-08:008 Months Later.. Part 3<span style="font-size:130%;"><span style="font-weight: bold;">Sindre</span></span><br /><br />To those of you not knowing too much about the Norwegian climbing scene, I will try to make a comparison to some of the better know American "Rockstars".<br /><br />In climbing style and approach Magnus Midtbø and Sindre Sæther can be seen as a Norwegian equivalent to Chris Sharma and Tommy Caldwell.<br />At a younger age the two great talents where the hopes of a climbing nation, neck in neck, pushing comps and hard sport climbing.<br />Then as Caldwell, Sindre´s focus shifted more to the mountains and the hard scary big wall climbing of he´s home in Romsdalen.<br />Here the similarities somewhat come to and end. Where Caldwell climbs on super solid "safe" granite in Yosemite, working the big walls as sport climbs, Sindre climbs in a much more unsafe wall with very short windows of conditions, forcing him to climb much more onsight on both loose and wet rock.<br />(I could also add that Sindre isn´t cursed with a squecky little voice, and still has all he´s fingers).<br /><br />Magnus on the other hand, more like Sharma, kept pushing for international comps and hard redpoints, achieving a level far beyond that of any other Norwegian, the only one to climb past 8c+, and amazingly reaching all the way to 9b.<br /><br />Sindre lives in a small remote place known as Isfjorden (directly translated: The Ice Fjord), and where Magnus spends most of he´s time training indoors in the big city of Oslo, Sindre with only a tiny old bouldering room available, spends he´s time climbing outdoors and running in the mountains.<br />In this way, Sindre, much like a Rocky Balboa of climbing, has developed this extreme ability to endure and fight until the very end, an end far beyond where most (me included) would have fallen off or just given up.<br /><br />In recent years Sindre´s sport climbing trips have been about moving from crag to crag, onsighting and trying to do routes in a day, two at the most, not knowing if he would be staying or going.<br />Joining us here in Santa Linya, where redpoint is the order of the day, gave him a chance to spend a bit more time and try harder routes.<br /><br />Perhaps the main project he was psyched on was a route he had tried briefly with Kiffen a few years back, called Ingravid Eskerps (8c).<br />Ingravids is the original (and yet somewhat unlogical) start to Rollito Sharma. It starts off to the right and is about 7c+/8a before a short hard crux with a undercling mono directly into the long crux move of Rollito.<br /><br />Not having done Rollito from the normal "easy" start (from the left) and not having tried the crux after the hold broke, Sindre started off trying Rollito Sharma + extension (8c), falling only once in the extension after getting past the lower boulder crux, before sending.<br /><div style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh3Fm5cJkPQBNm5bcVEQzDt_mcZ7r4t0x_Uk1CuSv-GZwKPgtsdOyuSuOQ_PvQOsO4EvapkI5dGF-n-52C9CKpbuaaWTOkAo6mehl3X2SVt_g_gIKB6Gnz-h0R8FyIw_61RiIeuSqeP6gE/s1600/Sindre+Rollito+Ext.jpg"><img style="display: block; margin: 0px auto 10px; text-align: center; cursor: pointer; width: 267px; height: 400px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh3Fm5cJkPQBNm5bcVEQzDt_mcZ7r4t0x_Uk1CuSv-GZwKPgtsdOyuSuOQ_PvQOsO4EvapkI5dGF-n-52C9CKpbuaaWTOkAo6mehl3X2SVt_g_gIKB6Gnz-h0R8FyIw_61RiIeuSqeP6gE/s400/Sindre+Rollito+Ext.jpg" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5699821605315183618" border="0" /></a> <span style="font-style: italic;">"Sindre entering the upper crux on Rollito Sharma Extension 8c"</span><br /></div><br />Since the pic<span style="font-size:100%;">ture abov</span>e might give you the illusion that it´s a short slightly overhanging route, I´ll give you a picture from inside the cave to show you just how steep it really is!<br /><div style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi_N4E1Uozyv8Z10BwAhROKjU7hwOOg3zLvjb10p-1cjViIA8jdVAJmRRI7rL7M4q5HnA3U6PSzLt2qBj6z7tQCktlBhOpJTfoUEpwC9aRRQElZ384PIOJdqIB2jwUe9L-5FuKwyyI4Zng/s1600/Rollito+%252B+A+Plom+Skitch.jpg"><img style="display: block; margin: 0px auto 10px; text-align: center; cursor: pointer; width: 400px; height: 267px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi_N4E1Uozyv8Z10BwAhROKjU7hwOOg3zLvjb10p-1cjViIA8jdVAJmRRI7rL7M4q5HnA3U6PSzLt2qBj6z7tQCktlBhOpJTfoUEpwC9aRRQElZ384PIOJdqIB2jwUe9L-5FuKwyyI4Zng/s400/Rollito+%252B+A+Plom+Skitch.jpg" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5699903561512760882" border="0" /></a><span style="font-style: italic;">"Hannah on Rollito, Therese in the background on the short but sweet A Plom"<br /><br /></span><div style="text-align: left;">Not long after sending Rollito Sharma Extension, Sindre got back on he´s old project, Ingravids Eskerps (8c).<br />I was filming from the ground when Sindre, looking tired, battled he´s way through the first crux and into the crux of Rollito.<br />Here, almost everyone manages to get a weird kneebar and shake a bit, Sindre how ever, didn´t. So, with no rest, he just kept going and slightly missing the hold, came off.<br /><br />It was getting dark, cold and the humidity was rapidly rising. I was on a route to the right just hanging around getting nowhere (as usual), when Sindre decided to have another go "just for the training".<br />Looking wasted, trying to warm up pulling on the jugs on the warm up traverse, I was expecting him to come flying at the second bolt.<br /><br />It was therefore to my, and everyone else´s (including Sindre), surprise when he somehow managed to pull himself past the first crux and into the Rollito crux one more time.<br />Desperately slapping for the hold this time, he somehow managed to hit it, stay on, and get into easier (but not less steep) terrain.<br />Then came a Rocky style fight like nothing I have witnessed before. Sindre seemed to be falling off at every move, slipping more and more on the now humid holds, somehow just barely managing to stay on, yet not able to shake out, fighting he´s way through to the first chain, clipping the anchor almost in the dark for he´s second 8c of the trip.<br /><div style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi3V3yZhx0F3HwYNXoCQfRMeJzbThI8-BYwC3VO3H1gfPMFcuJUYFzNlqp9D23ZyOtz15KOrbVqBi00HzIRvnkkdELN4C_ieA2mhU0BcJE107ss1BzhYRCZjT9UedsG5iqqywn_lov-S_I/s1600/Sindre+Ingravids.jpg"><img style="display: block; margin: 0px auto 10px; text-align: center; cursor: pointer; width: 400px; height: 341px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi3V3yZhx0F3HwYNXoCQfRMeJzbThI8-BYwC3VO3H1gfPMFcuJUYFzNlqp9D23ZyOtz15KOrbVqBi00HzIRvnkkdELN4C_ieA2mhU0BcJE107ss1BzhYRCZjT9UedsG5iqqywn_lov-S_I/s400/Sindre+Ingravids.jpg" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5700927764998816418" border="0" /></a><span style="font-style: italic;"> "Sindre entering the Ingravids crux the attempt before he did it" (video still)</span><br /></div><br />Since there still seem to be some confusion, (and for sure will be more in the future), I have drawn up some of the more relevant lines on this part of the wall, (see picture below). The wall keeps on going beyond the picture with further extensions to all the lines I have drawn up, but in the spirit of keeping it "simple" I will leave those out for now.<br /><div style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiTTWAdCemQm6b0cvO4UsB22ucd_8CbtqtHUHCCMwSA2T7Hj8vuGEZsC6ytwKhiL22AqLtB8kgNpghYZqkTZ3BfEyAVF4MD1g0HSwS3Vnjxfo7J2XzjF2wo3h0sen3VHf5WaYmZYucXSYQ/s1600/Hula+med+Ing%252C+Mind%252C+Rol+og+Fab.jpg"><img style="display: block; margin: 0px auto 10px; text-align: center; cursor: pointer; width: 400px; height: 267px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiTTWAdCemQm6b0cvO4UsB22ucd_8CbtqtHUHCCMwSA2T7Hj8vuGEZsC6ytwKhiL22AqLtB8kgNpghYZqkTZ3BfEyAVF4MD1g0HSwS3Vnjxfo7J2XzjF2wo3h0sen3VHf5WaYmZYucXSYQ/s400/Hula+med+Ing%252C+Mind%252C+Rol+og+Fab.jpg" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5700253338754369362" border="0" /></a><span style="font-style: italic;">"Some of the routes (and link-ups) in the inner part of the cave "<br /></span></div><br /></div></div><span style="font-size:130%;">A quick guide to understanding the picture.</span><br />- Black arrow estimates approximately the grade up to that point or a point of interest on the line in question (red line = Rollito, and so on).<br />- White arrow (only used once) is a point of interest after the joining of Ingravids and Rollito.<br />- The green dots following Rollito Extension is Ingravids Extension. Sindre, completely wasted at the first anchor, did not try to link into the extension for the "bonus" /+ grade.<br />- Pink is the "normal", or "easy" version if you like, of Open your Mind to the first anchor (just outside the picture).<br />- Orange is the Directa start Magnus did. The stapled line following the pink symbolises the shared part to the same anchor.<br /><br />As i mentioned before in the last post, the line goes on for another 15 meters, all the way to the top of the cave, (at around 8b+ on it´s own). From the Directa start this (at least in the guidebook) gives a /+ up from "just" 9a to the first anchor.<br />Adam Ondra recently gave an intervju where he mentioned this route as one of those he had yet to finish.<br />He also said in the intervju that he had previously done the normal "easy" start all the way to the top (8c+/9a), and fell in the "easier" terrain in the top from the Directa start, that is after the first chain (9a), going for the full line.<br />Magnus was only really trying to do the first part (9a).<br />Once he got up it, he had a go at the extension. Barely having tried it and to impatient to sit and rest, he fell off just after the first anchor.<br /><br />This is where people seem to be getting confused. Magnus climbed the 9a part to the first anchors, he has not downgraded the full line from 9a/+, nor has he climbed the line Ondra didn´t, seeing as Ondra also got to the first chain.<br />What Ondra was talking about in the intervju is the full line, that is including the extension...<br /><br /><span style="font-size:130%;"><span style="font-weight: bold;">Oliana</span></span><br /><br />On new years eve the entire Norwegian Santa Linya team gathered for a day trip to Oliana.<br />Having been in the cave for weeks, the change of scenery was well worth the trip.<br />Hannah and I had never been to Oliana before (even thought it is only about a 1.5 hour drive).<br /><br />The reason for this is that the routes are mainly hard and very very long.<br />We have not wanted to have projects so far from home, and not feeling ready to go there for onsight/flash, we´v just kept postponing it.<br /><br />Hannah was having a rest day, and upon seeing the massive wall, so was Therese.<br />We arrived quite early, but unfortunately, the baking hot sun was already on the wall.<br />A little breeze was at times present, combined with the whole location of the wall, giving it a bit fresher air then what is usually found back home in the Santa Linya cave.<br /><br />Magnus was psyched to attempt the onsight of the 48 meter long monster tufa route Humildes pa Casa (8b+).<br />(A clip of Sharma climbing on it can be seen in the Reel Rock Tour 2010 video.)<br />There where people hanging on it and on the shared start route, so Magnus decided to have a "warm up" go on the 45 meter long Paper Mullat (8b+/8c) on the other side of the wall.<br />He had tried the route a few times on a previous trip, but ultimately fallen on the very last moves, and not returned.<br /><br />There was an old dynamic rope hanging from the top of the wall in the bushes behind the route. I had a quick look at it and decided jumaring up it for a few pictures might be worth the risk.<br />A german kid was climbing on a route next to it, and when I was about half way up the wall, he had got to the anchors.<br />A bit worried about what the rope at the top looked like, I called up for him to check it. A few seconds later I wished i hadn`t.<br />"<span style="font-style: italic;">Dosn´t look very good"</span> was he´s reply, and looking down, I thought to my self, great, I´m gonna die.<br />Luckily, after fishing some more details out of the kid, I (to my great relive) soon realized he knew little about ropes, he´s "<span style="font-style: italic;">not very good</span>", was but a fluffy sheath:)<br /><br />Eventually, after jumaring 50 meters, I got up and Magnus set off.<br />He did not disappoint, and without remembering much of the top, he sent the route.<br /><div style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEim1D9tMKQFXoRhd5NMgXBmFwW5LGtuNgJ68SMqrLvq3gmKEyXNX8XeLNxsJrsKIamgN_0OpkDHCsNpx6gGx9uKLZJ1oQhuxqcJN9C7guFVDuOhgIZKDPGHfaJt3kZMLS-Sg_DPXxJrAgA/s1600/magnus+oliana+2.jpg"><img style="display: block; margin: 0px auto 10px; text-align: center; cursor: pointer; width: 267px; height: 400px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEim1D9tMKQFXoRhd5NMgXBmFwW5LGtuNgJ68SMqrLvq3gmKEyXNX8XeLNxsJrsKIamgN_0OpkDHCsNpx6gGx9uKLZJ1oQhuxqcJN9C7guFVDuOhgIZKDPGHfaJt3kZMLS-Sg_DPXxJrAgA/s400/magnus+oliana+2.jpg" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5699870848897727986" border="0" /></a><span style="font-style: italic;">"Magnus sending Paper Mullat 8b+/8c"<br /></span></div><br />A bit later Magnus was again getting ready, this time for the main route of the day.<br />It was now just over mid day, the sun was on the wall, the breeze I had felt before was gone, and it was hot.<br />As so many times before, Magnus was to impatient to wait a few more hours for the shade (and much better conditions), and set off.<br /><br />The first 15-20 meters or so is more "normal" face climbing, the last 30 meters on the other hand is pure tufa madness.<br />There seemed to be a crux just where Magnus entered the tufa, but after passing that, he once again made it look easy, steadily working he´s way up the wall.<br />At the very top of the route there is a "vertical/slab" crux. The tufa comes to an end and you have to find some small hard to see crimps and "blobs".<br />After about 45 meters of climbing Magnus got to this point. There was very little chalk and no tickmarks.<br />He moved around, struggling to fight of the pump, desperately looking for holds, finally slipping off and came flying.<br /><div style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhUDNiytm6KwOfkpDpmdkXy0Cgzo9M4RTPfWVugHTTo9bOuxexqQHvsUHiBf07cWtJWsNOngRKoiFMuV0a-eWuQQJ4AvnjK0TcFsEtqNSvVjvf9Iu0wUk1KWfycDy6UKG59J0OJ-rR0_Cc/s1600/blog+bilder+fra+film+%25284+of+9%2529.jpg"><img style="display: block; margin: 0px auto 10px; text-align: center; cursor: pointer; width: 400px; height: 233px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhUDNiytm6KwOfkpDpmdkXy0Cgzo9M4RTPfWVugHTTo9bOuxexqQHvsUHiBf07cWtJWsNOngRKoiFMuV0a-eWuQQJ4AvnjK0TcFsEtqNSvVjvf9Iu0wUk1KWfycDy6UKG59J0OJ-rR0_Cc/s400/blog+bilder+fra+film+%25284+of+9%2529.jpg" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5699816389671816418" border="0" /></a><span style="font-style: italic;">"Magnus falling of the onsight on the top of Humildes pa Casa 8b+"</span><br /></div><br />The slippy warm tufa had shredded Magnus´s skin, he was not able to climb more that day, nor did he manage to grow it back before leaving for Norway a few days later.<br /><br />The same day, a bit further to the left on the wall, Maria onsighted her first 8a, Mishi.<br />Again I got no photo´s.. Partly because I can`t be everywhere at once, but also because I want to attempt the onsight of that route my self in the spring...<br /><br />Not feeling up for a hard onsight, Kiffen and I tried La Marroncita (8b). It was in the middle of the sun and felt really hard. We where both done for the day after just one trip up working through the sections.<br /> I can add that Maria later came back and did it in a day, first going quickly through the moves, then falling at the crux in the middle and linking from there to the top, then from the ground falling at the top, before somehow managing to go again and sending it.<br /><br />To me, climbing up the full 35 meters 3 times and then still be physically and not least mentally capable of going up a fourth time and then sending it, is much more impressive then doing it (much more fresh) in a second go, but I guess that´s just me. Anyways, respect to Maria:)<br /><br />(<span style="font-style: italic;">Back to the story of new years eve</span>)<br />Shade finally hit the wall and the conditions improved drastically.<br />Unfortunately for Sindre, everyone was done for the day. We where all packing up, when Sindre, still tired after he´s previous attempt, tied in for a last ditch effort on the 45 meter long De Picos Pardos (8b).<br />I was belaying (hence yet again no pictures), and just standing there, looking up at the massive route, I was happy I was staying on the ground not having to go all the way up there.<br />Not recovered from he´s last attempt, Sindre almost fell on the first hard moves, but yet again he somehow digged deep and fought he´s way up in he´s characteristic, never giving up style, somehow making it all the way to the chains.<br /><br /><span style="font-weight: bold;font-size:130%;" >Back in Santa Linya</span><br /><br />Magnus only had a few days left, having done almost all the routes up to 9a, he decided to try a rarely repeated one called "Mercenaris del Passat" (9a).<br /> After a quick glance at the guidebook, he ended up trying the 9a from the wrong start (a 7c into a short broken 8b). Meeting massive resistance on the 8b, and with he´s skin still all fucked from he´s onsight attempt in the sun in Oliana a few days before, he gave up when he finally made it into the 9a part, deciding it was time for another rest day.<br /><br />With only one day left and no more "easy" routes to do in a day, Magnus had a go on Chris Sharma´s unrepeated "Neaderthal" (9b), checking out the moves to see if it was something he wanted to train for and come back to.<br /><br />Neanderthal starts in a short 7b+, then follows a easy traverse up a ledge system to a no-hands rest. From there it´s an intense, but not to long, 9a with almost no rests directly into a hard dyno to a sloper from a bad two finger pocket.<br />After that you get some jugs you can recover on before the top bit at around 8b+ to the top of the wall.<br />Magnus did all the hard moves, including the crux dyno in just 3 try´s. Psyched to come back and project it, he left for the cold of Norway once again.<br /><div style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh-901db9seIiQrSSGyE3ebiUlNJ3RBzk_EzYFfuvCQJKQuO5lEiKhgBnbpvRcxao9C-0qzi3sgyML2zKZY9itVnhVZ0Q9T-Ur2WJOzNz8ITh50HnC5yNv2ziW3Q1374zjIeRwNAH3MnV0/s1600/Magnus+Neaderthal.jpg"><img style="display: block; margin: 0px auto 10px; text-align: center; cursor: pointer; width: 267px; height: 400px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh-901db9seIiQrSSGyE3ebiUlNJ3RBzk_EzYFfuvCQJKQuO5lEiKhgBnbpvRcxao9C-0qzi3sgyML2zKZY9itVnhVZ0Q9T-Ur2WJOzNz8ITh50HnC5yNv2ziW3Q1374zjIeRwNAH3MnV0/s400/Magnus+Neaderthal.jpg" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5699821607856446962" border="0" /></a><span style="font-style: italic;">"Magnus in the midst of the hard climbing on Neanderthal 9b"</span><br /><br /><div style="text-align: left;">To those looking at the wall (or in the guidebook) I can add that there is a more "logical" start (8c+) directly below the ledge where the route starts "going up" and the hard part begins.<br />Since you get the no-hands ledge you can sit (or more like lie down on) until you are completely fresh, Chris told me he chose the easy traverse instead because he felt the 8c+ didn´t add anything to the route or the grade.<br /><br /><span style="font-size:130%;"><span style="font-weight: bold;">A perfect day</span></span><br /></div></div><br />After Magnus, Knut and Kiffen left. We once again got one of those rare days with wind and super sticky conditions.<br />Hannah and I unfortunately wasted the day working moves and falling on the not to friction dependent long crux move on the lower part of Rollito Sharma..<br /><br />Sindre, Martin and Maria on the other hand put the conditions to better use and went on a mad sending spree.<br />Sindre had since doing Ingravids been working on Fabelita (8c). Not really being he´s style he seemed to be struggling.<br />The day before he had been up it several times slipping on the "good" holds and barely linking sections.<br />Today, feeling tired, he was just supposed to work the route some more before taking a rest day.<br /><br />Sindre´s normal approach when working something is to go from the ground as far as possible, then fall off (rarely take), pull back on and work what ever moves he would be unsure of or struggling with, then linking as much of the rest as possible.<br /><br />On Fabelita he had (from the ground) been going to the second draw you skip in the traverse, a few (but the hardest) moves before the "rest", before grabbing it to avoid having to pull 10 meters back up and scare an already scared Therese belaying.<br /><br /><div style="text-align: center;"><div style="text-align: left;"> Tired, but with the wind and the friction on he´s side, Sindre seemed glued to the rock.<br />Where he would usually be slipping, he made it look easy, pulling past the traverse, managing to shake out on the good hold despite the steepness, making it all the way to the chains, never falling in the (also hard) upper part.<br /></div><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhW3x3RFICuB-9fJnHyyXvKERfrAx0vxDqoekIGCvCkocnAEofhc2G48mOpxqwFdG55IU6588TS4FBZV1i1Tz-6ihEyLBgu1ZPs_gmF2ZoDSlE2w1t6tu8nNWFwKKMfvN4qIIXyxIImH9g/s1600/Sindre+Fabelita.jpg"><img style="display: block; margin: 0px auto 10px; text-align: center; cursor: pointer; width: 267px; height: 400px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhW3x3RFICuB-9fJnHyyXvKERfrAx0vxDqoekIGCvCkocnAEofhc2G48mOpxqwFdG55IU6588TS4FBZV1i1Tz-6ihEyLBgu1ZPs_gmF2ZoDSlE2w1t6tu8nNWFwKKMfvN4qIIXyxIImH9g/s400/Sindre+Fabelita.jpg" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5699821598863726306" border="0" /></a><span style="font-style: italic;">"Sindre pulling past the mono on the upper part of Fabelita 8c" </span><br /><br /><div style="text-align: left;">On the far right side of the cave there is a not so steep bouldery power endurance 8b called Código Norte.<br />I put draws on it when we first arrived, but as some of the holds where wet and feeling it was hard, I left it for later, got busy with other routes, and never returned.<br /><br />Never (to our knowledge) having been onsighted before, I got Magnus psyched on trying it for the film. In usual Magnus style he unfortunately made it look way too easy (borderline boring), and as he was being lowered off he still didn´t know where the crux had been...<br /><br />This day Martin started trying it. Going through the moves he both found the crux and a sequence through it. He then tied in for the redpoint, first falling at the very top, before sending it in he´s next attempt.<br />Maria had been falling, missing a stab to a pocket (the crux), on the hard power endurance 8a+ Irak Attack for several days, on her first try today, she missed it again.<br /><br />Then on her next try she finally hit it and got to the ledge. From here the route (for some strange reason) traverses at least 10 meters on juggy holds along the ledge to the right. Never having tried the easy traverse at the top, Maria then somehow managed not to see any of the last 3 draws before clipping the anchors from a scary loose-ish block in a place you really don´t wanna fall off without those draws clipped.<span style="font-style: italic;"><br /></span><div style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-style: italic;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgWZ7hdTOjnN16SyNHqFG1Lkqeuly9odW28fHX-5phpY1Dkb1RJwpkbjt00U6A5mdhq7lt8MHFr4H3sCquiAJhyphenhyphendvpI6p5LJ7TLmcsyxobNwnFkcT-dbko7NiA6t8ye1peGS-wDsMMWCeA/s1600/blog+bilder+fra+film+%25286+of+9%2529.jpg"><img style="display: block; margin: 0px auto 10px; text-align: center; cursor: pointer; width: 400px; height: 225px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgWZ7hdTOjnN16SyNHqFG1Lkqeuly9odW28fHX-5phpY1Dkb1RJwpkbjt00U6A5mdhq7lt8MHFr4H3sCquiAJhyphenhyphendvpI6p5LJ7TLmcsyxobNwnFkcT-dbko7NiA6t8ye1peGS-wDsMMWCeA/s400/blog+bilder+fra+film+%25286+of+9%2529.jpg" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5699816400362100306" border="0" /></a>"I didn´t find a video still of Maria on Irak Attack, so here is another of her sending the 8a Devórame Otra Vez" </span><br /></div><span style="font-style: italic;"><br /></span>With Irak Attack finally in the bag, Maria joined Martin on Código.<br />After a quick run through the moves she once again put her game face on, tied in for the redpoint, fought her way through the crux, sending yet another 8b in a day, and that in the end of the day after two trips up Irak Attack.<br /><br />Sindre, still seeming a a bit surprised to have done Fabelita (a few hours before), then got talked into trying to flash the route.<br />It was still amazing conditions and with nothing to lose Sindre again tied in and set off.<br />After getting a bit lost in the crux section, he ended up desperately slapping for a crimp, only just sticking it, before recovering on some better holds (where Magnus is in the picture below) and finishing of the tricky vertical top part easily for he´s first ever 8b flash, making it for Sindre what can only be seen as a perfect (sport) climbing day with (at least according to him) both he´s hardest flash and he´s hardest redpoint in the same day!<br /><div style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhXZCWiPKdH6Q-mArs6lBGhIzTkjlDKE5PA3ESxVmHaZEx1y7pOA7nA6F6guetnZPkt1d39HG-2R_m65QF0DtmIpb0Skkr_w4R1pY3cM_B7rYfPHBv1O221AlYIRGfBAvLmRFS6HJNZWd4/s1600/blog+bilder+fra+film+%25283+of+9%2529.jpg"><img style="display: block; margin: 0px auto 10px; text-align: center; cursor: pointer; width: 400px; height: 225px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhXZCWiPKdH6Q-mArs6lBGhIzTkjlDKE5PA3ESxVmHaZEx1y7pOA7nA6F6guetnZPkt1d39HG-2R_m65QF0DtmIpb0Skkr_w4R1pY3cM_B7rYfPHBv1O221AlYIRGfBAvLmRFS6HJNZWd4/s400/blog+bilder+fra+film+%25283+of+9%2529.jpg" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5699816383683923122" border="0" /></a><span style="font-style: italic;">"Magnus just after the crux on the onsight of Código Norte 8b (video still)"</span><br /><br /></div><span style="font-size:130%;"><span style="font-weight: bold;">Therese</span></span><br /><br />Taking a short break from her normal bouldering to joining us here, Therese both tied into a rope, sent some routes and managed to belayed a 8c redpoint during her stay!<br />As a dedicated boulderer Therese has a lot of power but lacks endurance. That combined with a fear of heights made Daila Ojeda´s, 12 meter long<span style="font-style: italic;"> </span>route, A Plom (8a+) one of the logical lines to try.<br /><br />With the main crux at the 3 bolt the moves are hard. Therese however easily did all the moves and found it to be very pumpy, (she did manage to get a lot of moves out of 12 meters).<br /> She got past the hardest move almost every time, but without the best beta on the rest, she managed to fall off many times, almost always in a slightly different spot, before finally one day after adjusting her beta slightly, finished off the route, silently moving past the hard moves and desperately screaming and throwing from jug to jug at the top.<br /><div style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhDwGVl5FAdIfDPmDu3n4EFwZSiDHhQTBiLfvxP1pP2GjZIqEbYH0tN3J5WoJ5amtsPZ0xjeBz5J1rpfKSS-hIlC5a9K_hIhVekL3Gy4HDzFzWv1HkCxCWehxzekPKXy8Mf9zrtKnZurCI/s1600/blog+bilder+fra+film+%25288+of+9%2529.jpg"><img style="display: block; margin: 0px auto 10px; text-align: center; cursor: pointer; width: 400px; height: 225px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhDwGVl5FAdIfDPmDu3n4EFwZSiDHhQTBiLfvxP1pP2GjZIqEbYH0tN3J5WoJ5amtsPZ0xjeBz5J1rpfKSS-hIlC5a9K_hIhVekL3Gy4HDzFzWv1HkCxCWehxzekPKXy8Mf9zrtKnZurCI/s400/blog+bilder+fra+film+%25288+of+9%2529.jpg" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5699821625761095442" border="0" /></a><span style="font-style: italic;">"Therese sending A Plom 8a+ (video still)" </span><br /></div><br />After sending A Plom, Therese got a bit more ambitious and decided to try the 20 meter long Trío Ternura (8a).<br />Trío is two boulders separated by a jug up to the 4th bolt. This first and hardest part is shared with Fabelita (8c), Open your mind (8c/+) and Fabela (8c+).<br /><br />Just after the 4th bolt you get a good jug and can shake out before a tricky little traverse leads into a good no-hands kneebar in a hole after the crux on Arqueologíco (7c). From this "rest" the route is shared with the 7c and follows a series of long moves between jugs to the top, not harder then 7a+ in it´s own.<br /><br />Therese rapidly climbed past the first part, but fell first once just after the jug on the 4th bolt, and then looking down, got scared and gave up in the upper part after the kneebar on another attempt.<br />Never having climbed this high on anything harder then 6b before, she was reluctant to try out the top moves. She ended up having several goes from the ground before eventually digging deep and forcing herself to go through the moves all the way to the anchor.<br />Once that was done, the route went down the next attempt.<br /></div><div style="text-align: left;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjz2pz5cGApUUHLusXptQ3p2rsHlkLjO3fguBhmnQS57IpQAf5AtY_4OVSnItoXbFoGhjOUpSTWzPZLDlpsRRtTwLsnLafdsTIf_Lfh74XULHg4ew0YFOSHbUWrv7V8qK0Pm863peIORKs/s1600/Tc+8a.jpg"><img style="display: block; margin: 0px auto 10px; text-align: center; cursor: pointer; width: 267px; height: 400px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjz2pz5cGApUUHLusXptQ3p2rsHlkLjO3fguBhmnQS57IpQAf5AtY_4OVSnItoXbFoGhjOUpSTWzPZLDlpsRRtTwLsnLafdsTIf_Lfh74XULHg4ew0YFOSHbUWrv7V8qK0Pm863peIORKs/s400/Tc+8a.jpg" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5699870847159836978" border="0" /></a></div></div><div style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-style: italic;">"Tc sending Trío Ternura 8a"</span><br /><br /><div style="text-align: left;">Just next to Trío there is another, much harder, start to the same top called El Koala (8a+/8b).<br /></div></div>It is about 7b to the 3 bolt before a hard boulder problem to a good jug at the 5th bolt. From there it´s one long move from jug to jug over to the rest just above the 4th bolt on Trío, before the same traverse to the kneebar in the hole and either the very easy topout of the 7b+ or the slightly harder topout of the 7c.<br /><br />Therese had tried the route briefly at the start of her trip, but had left it as she didn´t like our heelhook beta, then Martin did it with a drop knee, a beta that she found much easier.<br />After testing the moves just once she was at the 5th bolt on the redpoint.<br />In classic Therese style she somehow managed to get more pumped on the jug after the small holds and fell off on the next big jug to jug move...<br /><br />The next day was Therese´s last day and she once again got back on the Koala.<br />Not having worked the moves more then just trying them once and going for the redpoint, she had no plan for the feet on the crux moves, something that lead to them cutting off completely in the worst possible position on the worst two holds on the route.<br />Looking strong, she still somehow managed to hang on, get them back on and pulled through, past her highpoint from the day before and past the traverse on Trío into the kneebar.<br /> From the kneebar Therese decided to go for the 7c top again since she had been up there before. Once again she then had to face her fear of heights and fight of the steep jug pulling pump.<br />Looking much more tired now then the day before, Therese fought hard, and seemingly barely managed to hang on to the top jug and clip the anchor.<br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgddlbudENObeEPMdRG1RyCMSJvuryVDkNk8-e1KIpQsHNReBZbwOBhyphenhyphenXkl4u9pldvIhGt2KR632sYmrkVSXZrooUZ9wG9YksQrQC4tgfoWvHBOTqwQBqtWrPK9syZT64WN4sNXkfPkdpo/s1600/blog+bilder+fra+film+%25289+of+9%2529.jpg"><img style="display: block; margin: 0px auto 10px; text-align: center; cursor: pointer; width: 400px; height: 246px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgddlbudENObeEPMdRG1RyCMSJvuryVDkNk8-e1KIpQsHNReBZbwOBhyphenhyphenXkl4u9pldvIhGt2KR632sYmrkVSXZrooUZ9wG9YksQrQC4tgfoWvHBOTqwQBqtWrPK9syZT64WN4sNXkfPkdpo/s400/blog+bilder+fra+film+%25289+of+9%2529.jpg" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5699821628638438578" border="0" /></a><span style="font-style: italic;">"Therese going for the jug at the end of the crux on El Koala 8a+/8b (video still)"</span><br /><br />El Koala is given 8b in the guidebook but since then a hold has appeared, changing the entire crux sequence.<br />The route is therefore downgraded, but to what? Most say 8a+/8b, but Therese felt A Plom was harder and gives it 8a+.<br />Some say A Plom is 8a+/8b as well thought so who know´s. Therese has done but one 8a+ (Total Terror) before and that is a long time ago now.<br />Therefore I would say that this trip marks a step up for Therese from former sport climbing glories, both in route difficulty and in route length:)Wanghttp://www.blogger.com/profile/14840965362641239826noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5406441149653791722.post-41487388036321377512012-01-15T15:53:00.002-08:002012-01-17T13:56:48.276-08:008 Months later.. Part 2<span style="font-weight: bold;font-size:130%;" >18.12.2011 </span><br /><br />About a week after the worldcup in Barcelona, Hannah´s brother Magnus (Midtbø) showed up in Santa Linya to try Fuck the System (9a) with Jackob (Schubert). They tried it in the sun for 2 days, their trip came to an end, and both left with no send.<br />Magnus was returning to stay with us for the holidays, and after only one week in Norway he was back December 18.<br /><br />December 16 I got a message from Sindre (Sæther) who (to complicate the story) had already been down here on a brief visit just a few weeks ago. He was wondering if we had room for one more during the holidays.<br />I said we did and he send me a new sms saying he was gonna check tickets.<br /><br />The next message i got was the morning of the 18-th. Sindre: "In Barcelona, got any good beta and how to get to Balaguer?"<br /><br />Since we didn´t know Sindre was coming, we hadn´t told Magnus.<br />So by chance Sindre and Magnus ended up on the same flight but somehow managed not to see each other.<br />Magnus rented a car, drove directly to the cave, had several good goes on Fuck the System and got to see Hannah climb Fabelita.<br />Sindre on the other hand ended up on the slow train. First to Barcelona, then to Lleida, before finally Balaguer 2 hours after sunset.<br />From there on Sindre´s trip changed for the better, but I´ll get back to that later.<br /><br /><span style="font-weight: bold;font-size:130%;" >Fuck the System</span><br /><br />The next day I was back up the ropes to film Magnus. He was looking much stronger after a week back home "resting" and had seemed very close on the route the day before.<br />So, not surprisingly, after a quick warmup he sent the route in front of the camera.<br /><br />Unfortunately the sun was on and with only one anchor for me to hang in I got my shade in a lot of the footage from the upper part. The contrast was also horrible so one of the crux sections got horribly overexposed...<br /><br /><div style="text-align: center;"><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjz1FYaiNI_ozFhQbYG93xy-yEJJ3B9tDk1au9kUznLYOEpZ8VFxemrVAKawQ3THToatfwZG5xWa2hk6A4COj7RzdQbaj171eYiv4QaQUrpmh2xttfZ2D8sCSDq5Te2L2xXqQRRz-gdH7g/s1600/Fuck+the+System+9a+2.jpg"><img style="display: block; margin: 0px auto 10px; text-align: center; cursor: pointer; width: 400px; height: 378px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjz1FYaiNI_ozFhQbYG93xy-yEJJ3B9tDk1au9kUznLYOEpZ8VFxemrVAKawQ3THToatfwZG5xWa2hk6A4COj7RzdQbaj171eYiv4QaQUrpmh2xttfZ2D8sCSDq5Te2L2xXqQRRz-gdH7g/s400/Fuck+the+System+9a+2.jpg" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5698310917185994754" border="0" /></a><span style="font-style: italic;">"Magnus passing he´s highpoint and entering the upper crux (video still)"</span><br /></div><br />The news of Magnus send was out the same day, but unfortunately some of the climbing media jumped to some wrong conclusions and managed to call it second go/second day and so on.<br />Magnus wrote on he´s blog that he did the route on he´s second day of the (this) trip...<br /><br />What people also don´t seem to understand is that most of the harder routes in the cave are in some ways link ups, variations, direct starts, extensions and so on.<br /><br />Fuck the System is no different. It is a direct finish to the 8c Digital System and tops out in the same anchor as Blomu´s second extension (8c+).<br />It breaks away from Digital System after the crux (from that point to the top of Digital it´s about 7c+/8a) and goes into a crux section of about 10-15 meters before traversing into Blomu at the last hard moves.<br />There is a "rest" just where the route leaves Digital System and the main crux sequences are completely separated from the other two routes all the way up until the very last move.<br /><br /><div style="text-align: center;"><img style="display: block; margin: 0px auto 10px; text-align: center; cursor: pointer; width: 367px; height: 400px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg46ghbC8xplQzGb4rp-RnbLDFER5hoF3xfE-NIyTlLQqOM5BEE3lv_aA1dnxwtMT2qKcSCFB5MRXACpalLYJDuFnlumrgWB3IhWd6KnEDKMG2MHDeIzvYDBBe-_3CrZSXX7SrLrQtnJwE/s400/Fuck+the+System+9a+3.jpg" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5698015290506416690" border="0" /><span style="font-style: italic;">"Digital System crux sequence (video still)"</span><br /></div><br />Magnus had before doing Fuck the System done both Blomu and Digital System on previous trips, so even thought the hardest part of the route was new to him it seems wrong in my eyes to try to quantify the effort into days or attempts...<br /><br /><span style="font-style: italic; color: rgb(51, 51, 255);">"To anyone wanting just a happy pappy blog and not my ranting about people trying to measure and compare climbing efforts, please skip down to the next headline:)"</span><br /><br />The counting of days and attempts is in most cases a pointless way of trying to measure what can not be measured anyway.<br /><br />The only thing that really matters here in my eyes are the <span style="font-weight: bold;">Conditions!</span> On most of the routes they make all the difference.<br />1 good day is worth countless bad once when you try to do hard redpoints. On a good day you could shake out on almost any big hold. In bad conditions you will be slipping on jugs.<br /><br />This is the big difference to indoor climbing where the route at least in theory should feel about the same to anyone if we don´t bring the whole physical difference (weight/reach and so on) into the picture.<br /><br />In Santa Linya the perfect days are the once with not to strong sun and wind.<br />The wind how ever is very rare and hopeless to predict in advance.<br /><br />A route that can feel easy on one of those rare windy winter days could take weeks in the more normal foggy, warm and/or humid conditions or simply be impossible in the heat of summer. Making this whole obsession people seem to have with time pointless, a measure of nothing.<br /><br />To my knowledge Magnus spent about 4 days on the route (not counting what was spent on Digital or Blomu before). He climbed it in the sun with no wind. On the first trip it was very warm, when he came back it was a bit colder, but still neither great nor bad conditions.<br /><br />Had he gotten perfect conditions he´s first trip he might have done the route then, but on the other hand, had he gotten humid foggy conditions he might have needed more time.<br />It was not an onsight nor was it a flash, so I ask, does it then really matter if he spent 2 days, 4 days or 2 weeks to do it?<br /><br /><span style="font-weight: bold;font-size:130%;" >The Bolger watch</span><br /><br />Since I first got to know Tom Bolger in the spring he has been working on Chris Sharmas Catxasa (9a+). I was belaying Hannah just meters away when Chris did the first ascent in January 2011. At the time I did not know what I was watching, but the climbing looked spectacular.<br /><div style="text-align: center;"><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhW_cxcSOKlRCDl32rTravuUWIVEoao63Z9s79CEiHiBpy9H1BqZYnTcaFqX32d9stbFIR5cqYvekkVXCFG_2CocTwZ9gJdlwUfDctxOcsPENJjd6Ou9_yn9k1ynPzAAYPUL7ugLGj7AdM/s1600/Sharma+Catxasa.jpg"><img style="display: block; margin: 0px auto 10px; text-align: center; cursor: pointer; width: 400px; height: 266px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhW_cxcSOKlRCDl32rTravuUWIVEoao63Z9s79CEiHiBpy9H1BqZYnTcaFqX32d9stbFIR5cqYvekkVXCFG_2CocTwZ9gJdlwUfDctxOcsPENJjd6Ou9_yn9k1ynPzAAYPUL7ugLGj7AdM/s400/Sharma+Catxasa.jpg" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5698399021946826770" border="0" /></a><span style="font-style: italic;">"Sharma on the actual first ascent of Catxasa 9a+"</span><br /></div><br />When Tom then started working it about a month later, I started filming he´s efforts. Tom managed to get to within a meter of the anchors before summer came and the cave got to hot, forcing him to wait until late November before it once again was possible to climb on.<br /><br />Tom lives in the Santa Linya village (just up the street from us), and a long side Sharma is one of the most dedicated and inspirational red point climbers I have ever encountered.<br /><br />While I was struggling with my red point motivation on the Tano in spring, Tom´s motivation seemed unwavering. He would climb up (about 8b+) and fall on a desperate stab to a mono over and over, come back down, rest and go again 3-4 times a day for days, weeks, months.<br /><br />With poor training facilities during the long summer (a hangboard) he seemed a bit unfit when we returned, but two weeks later the route finally dried up and after a few weeks of training on it, he´s form returned remarkably quick. Now he´s once again making it through the lower (8A+) boulder crux and into the upper crux of Fabela (8c+). (se video still below of the decisive top crux).<br /><div style="text-align: center;"><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgc3qDh_ZOSuyV0ATl_gAq1E37aTLHTpEIUpR7VWYHPlSvUZPSTY3ZKWe_1E3jIzOLWanQtBQEPsa9k1fZNrZiN26LS7ivOQarNodzZPaZdIMszalbbJ6oHRT-7qSezBc7czaDVe4kwakc/s1600/blog+bilder+fra+film+%25287+of+9%2529.jpg"><img style="display: block; margin: 0px auto 10px; text-align: center; cursor: pointer; width: 400px; height: 225px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgc3qDh_ZOSuyV0ATl_gAq1E37aTLHTpEIUpR7VWYHPlSvUZPSTY3ZKWe_1E3jIzOLWanQtBQEPsa9k1fZNrZiN26LS7ivOQarNodzZPaZdIMszalbbJ6oHRT-7qSezBc7czaDVe4kwakc/s400/blog+bilder+fra+film+%25287+of+9%2529.jpg" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5698305201305702146" border="0" /></a><span style="font-style: italic;">"Tom Bolger facing the last hard moves on one of he´s better red point attempts" </span><br /></div><br />The red point game eventually gets to any man, (even Tom it would seem) and after attempts in the hundreds and several falls at the very top, Tom would look rested and fresh, but still fall off this one move (see video still above).<br />Tom has yet to do the route and has been taking a break during the holidays, but now, equipped with some new beta for the top crux and a new found motivation I hope we will get to see him do it any day now:)<br /><br /><span style="font-weight: bold;"><span style="font-size:130%;">A different Christmas</span><br /><br /></span>A few days after Sindre and Magnus. Kiffen (Kristoffer Torbjørnsen) and he´s father Knut arrived.<br />Martin and Maria also returned, but as our house was running out of beds they decided to rent a room over at Tom and Lynne´s.<br /><div style="text-align: center;"><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEieaVDt-cO4MiXuGZXhr2Xv6S9VM9Zq1QPqDGM94sMm8rmDo9Ii5PrTvVx6WBZW7SA7l8AVU8ofAt7OZrR-Pac6FAU93_sJCcWAwH9ya3W-QFPbXI9VO-iKpINNujpT-xBwYiup0LWXVzE/s1600/julemiddag.jpg"><img style="display: block; margin: 0px auto 10px; text-align: center; cursor: pointer; width: 400px; height: 267px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEieaVDt-cO4MiXuGZXhr2Xv6S9VM9Zq1QPqDGM94sMm8rmDo9Ii5PrTvVx6WBZW7SA7l8AVU8ofAt7OZrR-Pac6FAU93_sJCcWAwH9ya3W-QFPbXI9VO-iKpINNujpT-xBwYiup0LWXVzE/s400/julemiddag.jpg" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5698015299681923106" border="0" /></a><span style="font-style: italic;">"X-mas dinner. From the left: Magnus, Kiffen, Me, Sindre, Hannah and Knut"</span><br /></div><br /><span><span><span><span>I will not bother to much with dates as the days all seem to blur together down here, but I can say that Tc (Therese Johansen)</span></span></span></span><span style="font-weight: bold;"><span style="font-weight: bold;"><span style="font-weight: bold;"><span style="font-weight: bold;"> </span></span></span></span><span><span><span><span>also joined us </span></span></span></span><span><span><span><span>the 26-th.</span></span></span></span><span style="font-weight: bold;"><span style="font-weight: bold;"><span style="font-weight: bold;"><span style="font-weight: bold;"><br /><br /></span></span></span></span><span><span><span><span>The wind was as usual absent, but for most of the time, so was the fog</span></span></span></span><span style="font-weight: bold;"><span style="font-weight: bold;"><span style="font-weight: bold;"><span style="font-weight: bold;">. </span></span></span></span><span><span><span><span><br />Mornings</span></span></span></span><span style="font-weight: bold;"><span style="font-weight: bold;"><span style="font-weight: bold;"><span style="font-weight: bold;"> </span></span></span></span><span><span><span><span>where damp after the sub zero temps at night and most of the day the sun was scorching hot</span></span></span></span><span style="font-weight: bold;"><span style="font-weight: bold;"><span style="font-weight: bold;"><span style="font-weight: bold;">. </span></span></span></span><span><span><span><span><br />Good conditions could only be found for about one hour, (also know as golden hour) just before the sun went off the wall around 5-ish</span></span></span></span><span style="font-weight: bold;"><span style="font-weight: bold;"><span style="font-weight: bold;"><span style="font-weight: bold;">. </span></span></span></span><span><span><span><span>At 6 darkness would creep back in and the humidity would again rise to somewhere between annoying and unbearable.<br /><br />The rock in the cave is rarely sharp. One can work the routes in the sun without shaving off all the precious skin, but redpointing is a different matter.<br />Magnus found himself a new project in the linkup Directa Open your Mind (9a), and impatient as he is, he would get on it an hour to early and fall of at the top dehydrated and wasted for the day.<br />He also had a few goes on bad days when humidity was high and slipped of the bottom crux. But eventually he got a break, managed to wait for the sun to fade, and cruised up the route.<br /></span></span></span></span><span><span><span><span><br /></span></span></span></span><div style="text-align: center;"><span><span><span><span><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgtTjBT3_o2ANAMdNdrAMYqOUBjwv4oviBkJmduMg9RGJ4Uvcs8oOLWcg9lPwp34s9QAoyS5OKprGeVy4n4xTLgYxbiKng6OMWKyBVeGhqgrhh5i4-3axGya78rAMIP506RT833T_1CAMM/s1600/Directa+Open+Your+Mind+9a+1.jpg"><img style="display: block; margin: 0px auto 10px; text-align: center; cursor: pointer; width: 400px; height: 286px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgtTjBT3_o2ANAMdNdrAMYqOUBjwv4oviBkJmduMg9RGJ4Uvcs8oOLWcg9lPwp34s9QAoyS5OKprGeVy4n4xTLgYxbiKng6OMWKyBVeGhqgrhh5i4-3axGya78rAMIP506RT833T_1CAMM/s400/Directa+Open+Your+Mind+9a+1.jpg" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5698305195985558786" border="0" /></a><span style="font-style: italic;">"Magnus on the upper part of Directa Open your Mind 9a (video still)"</span></span></span></span></span><br /></div><span><span><span><span><br />Magnus had previously done Open your Mind (8c/+) years ago, but could remember little of it.<br />The directa start is a short 8c+ into the 8c part skipping the normal 8a start to the right (the 8a start adds the /+ to the grade on the "easy" version as there is no really good rest).<br />I was up in the ropes filming from above while Kiffen with he´s own brand new 5D (borrowing my tripod) filmed from the ground.<br />Kiffens video can be found here:<br />http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ChnOath0kkY<br /><br />As always the critics at 8a.nu managed to throw out some shitty comments about preclipping and a cheaterstone? (seriously...) Anyways, I will try to clarify here as I will no longer comment at the 8a site.<br /><br />The route has (to my knowledge) never been done without 2 preclipped bolts. It is the normal ethics down here (at least on the hardest routes) to start with 2 bolts clipped, dangerous or not.<br />The first bolt is usually just there to reach the next and to keep the climber from crashing into the belayer when he(or she) falls at the 3 bolt.<br />The routes are long and potentially hitting the ground on a hard second clip for no other reason then to prove a point makes no sense. Sport climbing is about the physical aspect of climbing, not the danger.<br /><br />The other comment about starting from a stone is even more funny. It´s a route! Not some low boulder.<br />I agree that building stone towers (like on many routes in Margalef) to skip hard first moves is a valid issue but also a whole different matter.<br />Here the small stone he starts from only serves the purpose of protecting the shoes from the sand on the ground, it has no effect on reaching holds or making it easier in any way...<br /><br />About the grade... There is another extension to the route graded 9a/+. It´s basically an additional 8b+ after a good rest where the first 9a part ends. Most say it doesn´t really affect the grade, even thought mentally it of course makes some difference. The problem with the extension thought is that it never gets climbed.<br />When Magnus went up there to test the moves he was faced with holds covered with old birds nests and very little chalk. He only tested the extension that one time.<br />One the red point when he got to the first anchors, he tried to go on, but to impatient to sit in a uncomfortable ledge/hole for 30 min and rest properly he rested briefly and went for it, got a cramp in one arm (that stuck with him for days), and fell off.<br /><br /><span style="font-weight: bold;font-size:130%;" >Kiffen<br /><br /></span>Having forsaken the rope lately, Kiffen seemed a bit out of shape compared to former glory days, something he´s father, the always funny, Knut kept reminding him to everyone´s amusement. <span style="font-style: italic;">"I´v never seen you this weak Kiffen".<br /></span>On top of this I managed to set the hue on the camera a bit too much in the pink-ish direction while filming him trying the power endurance 8a+ Irak Attack, and well, you get the picture:D<br /></span></span></span></span><div style="text-align: center;"><span><span><span><span><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiQjBI3qTpnoVSIb22C5jyhPvn-Mw-Rj0qIojOlWuNH7tF39DDLM0VhZc1Lkx37Efxuv8KSxYQ6-dkqHBpKzAVFpteQAhKD-Bvesuvfnle1Fdoz34ErkGIYNxXRdvsT8pSnMGr-1EeLJuc/s1600/blog+bilder+fra+film+%25282+of+9%2529.jpg"><img style="display: block; margin: 0px auto 10px; text-align: center; cursor: pointer; width: 400px; height: 225px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiQjBI3qTpnoVSIb22C5jyhPvn-Mw-Rj0qIojOlWuNH7tF39DDLM0VhZc1Lkx37Efxuv8KSxYQ6-dkqHBpKzAVFpteQAhKD-Bvesuvfnle1Fdoz34ErkGIYNxXRdvsT8pSnMGr-1EeLJuc/s400/blog+bilder+fra+film+%25282+of+9%2529.jpg" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5698294939894760594" border="0" /></a></span></span></span></span><span style="font-style: italic;">"Kiffen in pink on the crux of Irak Attack 8a+ (video still)"</span><br /><br /><div style="text-align: left;">Kiffen, like me spent a lot of he´s time playing around with the camera, and until the very last day failed both to send routes and win once in the nightly texas hold´em tournaments.<br />The last day however, that changed, after sending Pegue Nocturno (8a) in a desperate last ditch effort after falling of the top 2 times. He surprised everyone (none more then himself) by finally winning a poker game, leaving he´s father as the only one never to win. (In comparison Hannah won 6-7 times and still sits as reigning champion.)<br /><div style="text-align: center;"><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiMjKvN5bHn_RmOxy0IwELWeW7rY-WatBdYsu6UnpqZYm9XgbGvQ12oj6zs-X6V3JkpO3j4lTDSuCQY_N98Wf-k9AUcNiMojhsoi8VjjKfN-JBt-dkr_4EzyVVAeEK9TsB_K-1xQ2wIWi8/s1600/blog+bilder+fra+film+%25285+of+9%2529.jpg"><img style="display: block; margin: 0px auto 10px; text-align: center; cursor: pointer; width: 400px; height: 225px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiMjKvN5bHn_RmOxy0IwELWeW7rY-WatBdYsu6UnpqZYm9XgbGvQ12oj6zs-X6V3JkpO3j4lTDSuCQY_N98Wf-k9AUcNiMojhsoi8VjjKfN-JBt-dkr_4EzyVVAeEK9TsB_K-1xQ2wIWi8/s400/blog+bilder+fra+film+%25285+of+9%2529.jpg" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5698294960738144146" border="0" /></a><span style="font-style: italic;">"Kiffen on Pegue Nocturno 8a (video still)"</span><br /></div></div></div>Wanghttp://www.blogger.com/profile/14840965362641239826noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5406441149653791722.post-61257068375407800342012-01-13T10:15:00.000-08:002012-01-15T15:09:07.316-08:008 Months later... Part 1Much has happen´d since my last post. Too much for my normal detailed description so in the spirit of saying as much as possible in as few words I`ll try to give you the very very short version:<br /><br />I left Spain in May without sending my 8b project and to top it off had a total epic getting the car back to Norway...<br />I then moved to outside Ole´s house in Sogndal, worked the summer in the mountains, joined the local climbing team "Team Sogndal Vertical" with my friends Ole, Tobias and Olav.<br />Then spent the fall complaining about the rain, working and training indoors. I managed to sneak away one week and had some great days in Kalymnos before finally at the start of November Hannah and I returned to Spain.<br /><br />S<span style="font-weight: bold;">pain the Second Coming</span><br /><br />Not forgetting my car epics the last few years we decided to fly down this time and buy a car in Spain.<br />We arrived in Santa Linya at the end of a 3 week long rain period, the cave was soaked and we spent the first few weeks living at Tom´n Lynne´s place trying to climb what ever was dry.<br />We bought their old car so they could get a new, got introduced to some locals renting out a nice oldschool house just down the street and ended up becoming Santa Linya locals for the winter.<br /><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjJBmdjHC2zDI6GShmqEyraUuOTodzD-6dIsPD1DCZaBjrqHxU08jtzKdXlHkKl52OsQ3Wk0Pu7sttuPCTN9RXx3C6J9L5n4ZpemYOZIdF6z3ClQ-jH5Iwr6It_-DI5Q5hGnZn-KpNGuGc/s1600/Santa+Linya+v%25C3%25A5t.jpg"><img style="display: block; margin: 0px auto 10px; text-align: center; cursor: pointer; width: 400px; height: 267px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjJBmdjHC2zDI6GShmqEyraUuOTodzD-6dIsPD1DCZaBjrqHxU08jtzKdXlHkKl52OsQ3Wk0Pu7sttuPCTN9RXx3C6J9L5n4ZpemYOZIdF6z3ClQ-jH5Iwr6It_-DI5Q5hGnZn-KpNGuGc/s400/Santa+Linya+v%25C3%25A5t.jpg" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5697599112834128242" border="0" /></a><br />"The cave the second week with water leaks on at least 1-2 important holds on almost every single route..."<br /><br />One of the first routes to dry up was my project from the spring el Mare del Tano. After having spent 5-6 weeks on it in bad conditions it was not great returning to it in similar warm and humid conditions. It still felt hard but I was motivated to get it done and after another 8 goes over the course of 2 weeks I finally got my endurance up and battled through the top sloper crux and sent my first (probably quite soft) 8b! :)<br /><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhbKvhipi8SSw3Lv73vzcKKYRYqekxnzwuiY_ziXkxAra61XF6x7FV8lG4Oep_oyb0RB1kCkJ5qsc39hbCE5VZb4ZbrntxEgDQIE76EX20H-43OwvD1yIkSFqf3dmPD-ojNwR8amdPowRM/s1600/Henning+Tano.jpg"><img style="display: block; margin: 0px auto 10px; text-align: center; cursor: pointer; width: 267px; height: 400px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhbKvhipi8SSw3Lv73vzcKKYRYqekxnzwuiY_ziXkxAra61XF6x7FV8lG4Oep_oyb0RB1kCkJ5qsc39hbCE5VZb4ZbrntxEgDQIE76EX20H-43OwvD1yIkSFqf3dmPD-ojNwR8amdPowRM/s400/Henning+Tano.jpg" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5697589049428008626" border="0" /></a><br /><div style="text-align: center;"> "Me on the Tano in May"<br /></div><br /><div style="text-align: center;"><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi07Oz_-setoy2DEXbrCkjIGXPDT6FSmfjQg0gPA9OKmZmDwfWM6LM4da5Ga3YbI5wG08PNtAn_Yjn4tkytq9yqu1BaD128yxelJjwz0oLL1OUtYWCx-e7OXa2TEzEqAKiKmAJoKN1U6OQ/s1600/Hannah+Tano.jpg"><img style="display: block; margin: 0pt 10px 10px 0pt; cursor: pointer; width: 255px; height: 382px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi07Oz_-setoy2DEXbrCkjIGXPDT6FSmfjQg0gPA9OKmZmDwfWM6LM4da5Ga3YbI5wG08PNtAn_Yjn4tkytq9yqu1BaD128yxelJjwz0oLL1OUtYWCx-e7OXa2TEzEqAKiKmAJoKN1U6OQ/s320/Hannah+Tano.jpg" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5697585321945806834" border="0" /></a><br /></div><div style="text-align: center;"> "Hannah on the top crux of the Tano on her send in spring"<br /></div><br />Several people came by and stayed a few days during the first month, but with bad conditions in the cave none stayed for long.<br /><br />Then December came, Maria D. Sandbu arrived and the cave finally dried up. Maria started of slow trying the classic 8a Pegue Nocturno. The route has a lot of reachy moves and really favors the tall.<br />Maria kept falling off a stab to a pocket and ended up having several days and many attempts on this while sending Santa Linya 8a+/8b in only 2 attempts a few days later!<br />When Maria climbed I seemed to be constantly somewhere else and thus I do not have many pic´s. Maria also turned up in a lot of none photogenic clothing (like in the picture below) so next time Maria remember to bring the colors;)<br /><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhPSA6m9fIemWO6RPfkkYk-0FoNUtDuvDCBH3orha6TFkFVXC92hYF65cnFIXg-4WDeOQ_tlnr7pofCJq4xs8f6BH1O3cq0q0C8d6-JgK7DYTFgFDql61OYd-TkU-uIYIdwd0LIYbpOkS4/s1600/Maria+Pegue.jpg"><img style="display: block; margin: 0px auto 10px; text-align: center; cursor: pointer; width: 267px; height: 400px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhPSA6m9fIemWO6RPfkkYk-0FoNUtDuvDCBH3orha6TFkFVXC92hYF65cnFIXg-4WDeOQ_tlnr7pofCJq4xs8f6BH1O3cq0q0C8d6-JgK7DYTFgFDql61OYd-TkU-uIYIdwd0LIYbpOkS4/s400/Maria+Pegue.jpg" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5697589081120054178" border="0" /></a><br /><div style="text-align: center;">"Maria on Pegue Nocturno 8a"<br /><br /><div style="text-align: left;">Not long after Maria´s arrival Matilda Söderlund from Sweden joined us and in just 5 days managed to send more then I probably will in 3-4 months!<br />Focused on comps and spending her time training indoors Mathilda was a bit of a wild card of unknown power and potential.<br />Combined with several days of perfect conditions and a lot of good beta she made accents I never would have thought possible.<br /><br /><span style="font-weight: bold;">Mathilda´s 5 days in Santa Linya</span><br /><br />Day 1: I drove to Balaguer and picked her up a few hours before dark and brought her to a cold and foggy (normal conditions cave). After a quick warm up she gave up her first attempt on Pegue Nocturno (8a) due to the usual foggy winter cave issue of numb hands and no feeling what so ever in your fingers. A bit warmer she then cruised it on her second go.<br /><br />Day 2: The weather changed for the better and the sun came back out. The girls (Hannah and Maria) believed she might be able to flash the route Santa Linya (8a+/8b) so we started the day by watching the video of Hannah climbing the route and gave as much beta as we could.<br />Matilda did not disappoint and seemed to flow up the route effortlessly. She then topped the day of with a flash/sight (a flash with very limited amounts of beta) of Airline 8a.<br /><br />Day 3: As it had seemed like Matilda was not on her limit on the Santa Linya route it was time to test her on a proper 8b.<br />Hannah did la Ruta del Sol in the spring as her second 8b and spent days on it just to get the proper endurance to link it.<br />At 35 meters high and at least 15 meters overhanging it is a endurance test piece with several tricky crux sections between hanging on your arms rests.<br /><br />I filmed Hannah´s accent of the route in the spring and once again I went over the video with Matilda before going to the cave.<br />The conditions where amazing with a decent temp, clouds and that very rare wind (the wind almost never enters the cave).<br />I was working the route next to Ruta del Sol, and against my better judgment ended up coming down for a second go after falling at the top. I should have been fixing the rope and getting ready to film Matilda, but the conditions where so good and I figured I had time. I was wrong... The second go I started before Matilda, but fell at the last possible move and ended up hanging next to her giving beta without the proper time to get in position to film...<br /><br />From my perspective 4 meters to the side I got "the best seats in the house" so to speak and what I saw was beyond impressive.<br />She had already gotten up to the "rest" under the crux section and seemed a bit confused on where to go next.<br />I pointed her in the right direction through the section but when she arrived at the actual crux move see just pulled through the hard way ignoring my beta and skipping both a heelhook and a undercling that for both me and Hannah seemed essential.<br />I followed her all the way to the top, and at no point did she ever seem tired or close to falling off.<br /><br /></div></div><div style="text-align: center;"><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh57HY38f-cqxgZp3Tqv1P16lGgq5q9On7LNubpHy2wmD0Gza9DG7Mpwut6T_TSBWO5bofYce2Pz6AzZPOJ0q9AIorWrV3QgLpwjdqyGR5M3UQbaPv9Rsyd7aWgKaj8lcB-ijRYqgQgtsA/s1600/Mathilda+Ruta+del+sol.jpg"><img style="display: block; margin: 0px auto 10px; text-align: center; cursor: pointer; width: 267px; height: 400px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh57HY38f-cqxgZp3Tqv1P16lGgq5q9On7LNubpHy2wmD0Gza9DG7Mpwut6T_TSBWO5bofYce2Pz6AzZPOJ0q9AIorWrV3QgLpwjdqyGR5M3UQbaPv9Rsyd7aWgKaj8lcB-ijRYqgQgtsA/s400/Mathilda+Ruta+del+sol.jpg" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5697589085905922434" border="0" /></a>"Matilda flashing la Ruta del Sol 8b"<br /><br /><div style="text-align: left;">Day 4: We awoke to perfect conditions with sun, wind and amazing friction. I was super psyched to climb but having missed out on documenting Matilda´s rampage so far I packed away the climbing shoes in favor of the camera.<br />It was time to step it up once again, and today it was Rollito day.<br /><br />Rollito Sharma is one of the steepest lines in the cave and is very different from the other routes we had sent Matilda on up to this point.<br />The route basically comes down to one very big move. The climbing up to the move is about 7c+ and the climbing after the move is about the same.<br />The route became famous when Daila climbed it in Dosage, but since then the first part of the crux tufa has broken off and the move has become much harder. Before the hold broke the route was downgraded to 8b/+ but after the hold brake the route is once again back to 8b+, all be it still in the lower end of the spectrum.<br /><br />On Matilda´s flash attempt she went for the wrong holds coming in to the crux and fell off. She then tested the crux move with Hannah´s heel hook beta with out success before trying the more powerful pull through.<br />She hit the hold on her second try using this beta and climbed to the anchors without stopping to working any of the other moves.<br />After a long break she tied in again, this time going all the way becoming the first ever Scandinavian woman to climb 8b+, a feat that would have been impressive in it´s own right, but that she managed to do it her first day on the route in her second attempt on her 4 day on, that is truly impressive!<br /></div></div><br /><div style="text-align: center;"><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjQeXi1fsWnaiynFZzqY9hJm4bYFs9t1IKvSqrR3XflpJmFWW-BOzUx7O4MVNd7fN24fuMZQPT4oZWyb94libC1TUEO15vrlPfHnCfQM00ZnSDM10Cu6TCJx3facog7FA5V1RoZTtSlOYY/s1600/Mathilda+Rollito.jpg"><img style="display: block; margin: 0px auto 10px; text-align: center; cursor: pointer; width: 267px; height: 400px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjQeXi1fsWnaiynFZzqY9hJm4bYFs9t1IKvSqrR3XflpJmFWW-BOzUx7O4MVNd7fN24fuMZQPT4oZWyb94libC1TUEO15vrlPfHnCfQM00ZnSDM10Cu6TCJx3facog7FA5V1RoZTtSlOYY/s400/Mathilda+Rollito.jpg" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5697589088127983698" border="0" /></a>"Matilda pulling through the crux on Rollito Sharma 8b+"<br /><br /><div style="text-align: left;">With one day still to go and the limit not reached we pushed her up the fixed photo line to try the 8c extension.<br />Watching and belaying from the ground it seemed to me that she struggled more with the concept of jugging up a fixed line then actually climbing the extension moves once she got up there. After cruising through the hardest part of the extension twice she lowered back down and the stage was set for the true test the next day.<br /><br />Day 5: Extension day.<br />Yet again we awoke to the perfect conditions of the previous days and once again I struggled to leave my climbing shoes behind in favor of the camera.<br />Matilda seemed to rise above any challenge we presented her with. I was starting to believe that she might just manage to pull 8c out of the bag on her last day. No matter what happened I would be up there to document it.<br />The extension to Rollito Sharma is the logical line. The first chain seems to be placed at some random good hold in the middle of the route. From here it´s about 10 meters around 8a+ on it´s own to a ledge where you can sit and rest. This ledge is the obvious stopping point if your not topping out the whole cave.<br /><br /><div style="text-align: center;"><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEinZaCmYeSGSarF5B1GptmCjiqh21Ln8rsarkiOX6JAaSGRSeoqwBt3grBhkFUL_xpaWwUFhLf6CI3VyFaxssACaUFvc3PbxS-O1tUyDrXAb0oNOC5IxHwEUEWGO8s0hSdGT54eQdHMZ80/s1600/hula+med+tegning.jpg"><img style="display: block; margin: 0px auto 10px; text-align: center; cursor: pointer; width: 400px; height: 267px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEinZaCmYeSGSarF5B1GptmCjiqh21Ln8rsarkiOX6JAaSGRSeoqwBt3grBhkFUL_xpaWwUFhLf6CI3VyFaxssACaUFvc3PbxS-O1tUyDrXAb0oNOC5IxHwEUEWGO8s0hSdGT54eQdHMZ80/s400/hula+med+tegning.jpg" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5697984384399146178" border="0" /></a>"Rollito Extension in red, Fabelita in blue"<br /></div></div></div><br /><div style="text-align: left;">After warming up Matilda set off. Once again she pulled through the long move and once again she was at the first anchors and the start of the extension. Here she was faced with a 4-5 meter long section of fairly straight forward easier climbing that she had not tested before. Still looking fresh she got through and got into the upper crux.<br /></div><div style="text-align: left;">The upper crux lasts all the way to the ledge, but the hardest move is matching a crimpy edge and pressing over into a two finger pocket.<br /></div><div style="text-align: left;">Matilda got through the pocked, clipped the last bolt and a mere 3 moves shy of the top jugs she finally gave in.<br /></div><div style="text-align: left;">After five days on she could not recover enough for a second attempt and the route still awaits her return.<br /></div><br /><div style="text-align: left;">A bit in the shadow of Matilda, Maria also kept making impressive hard sends during her first stay with both el Mare del Tano 8b and Asaltinbankis Extention (hard) 8a+ in just 2 attempts! before leaving to celebrate x-mas at home.<br /></div><br /><span style="font-weight: bold;">Fabelita</span> <span style="font-weight: bold;">8c</span><br /><br /><div style="text-align: left;">I have already gone in detail on Hannah´s accent of Fabelita (in Norwegian) on www.klatring.no<br /></div><div style="text-align: left;">So I will keep it short here:)<br /></div><br /><div style="text-align: left;">While Matilda and Maria was crushing Hannah was falling of the upper part of her project.<br />The route had never before seen a female accent and is known to be hard for the grade.<br />While Rollito has a one move boulder and easier climbing before a sustained upper section Fabelita is sustained all the way with only one proper "resting" hold.<br />(this hold is shared with several other harder routes, picture below is of Tom Bolger resting in the same hold after the lower crux on Catxasa 9a+)<br /></div><br /><div style="text-align: center;"><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgMndzHE2b3lwZLcWMfMKD_vecnmSK-EM9aPsvheQjwnlOcETGyDGLMA8RPg3K-bU1V0iQQTqyucLRr8gJwgusejTQK8W3pKnjuOofo4p0y7UGVhvw3cG30zHRaoxLqdpqwQa7wLuS1Y-s/s1600/Tom+i+hvilen.jpg"><img style="display: block; margin: 0px auto 10px; text-align: center; cursor: pointer; width: 400px; height: 267px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgMndzHE2b3lwZLcWMfMKD_vecnmSK-EM9aPsvheQjwnlOcETGyDGLMA8RPg3K-bU1V0iQQTqyucLRr8gJwgusejTQK8W3pKnjuOofo4p0y7UGVhvw3cG30zHRaoxLqdpqwQa7wLuS1Y-s/s400/Tom+i+hvilen.jpg" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5697606293615703858" border="0" /></a>"Resting"</div><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhpzahvYNJ3SpfOn4uwVIJQkzFEOv7k60ZyAsHYmzLspacCr8IfnWKQ6hK6lb1hYEWkghZL8G6O2mS5fpYQScL5YLYMdEYCs-WsO6RyOfjsSRZhmypSMCHj0IzR2QD1l3h5tn2dP3p3lcA/s1600/Tom+Cait+crux.jpg"><br /></a>The lower part up to the "rest" is about 8b+ and the part after is around 8b.<br />Hannah worked the route while it was still partly wet on and off for a few weeks, then struggling with bad conditions she kept falling in the last few moves before the rest on the redpoint.<br /><br /><div style="text-align: center;"><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjkXwhlUD-HD815gtcTlGHN16sG5J76gQP_fgnnlrQ8GiPj7b34XTI6A4e2bnSQwoH6V44nsUSZmaA_IXkxWHNlSOiuLITNOdSYe9dV4L0tWtMafsRIfWtZcbkxTo81Bn7z7uUa1fVUTcs/s1600/Hannah+Fabelita+1.jpg"><img style="display: block; margin: 0px auto 10px; text-align: center; cursor: pointer; width: 400px; height: 267px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjkXwhlUD-HD815gtcTlGHN16sG5J76gQP_fgnnlrQ8GiPj7b34XTI6A4e2bnSQwoH6V44nsUSZmaA_IXkxWHNlSOiuLITNOdSYe9dV4L0tWtMafsRIfWtZcbkxTo81Bn7z7uUa1fVUTcs/s400/Hannah+Fabelita+1.jpg" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5697828358248425714" border="0" /></a>"Entering the first crux section"<br /></div><br /><div style="text-align: center;"><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEirVI3ttJpmdANaZAFwzPJDCfFuVpdnAWJZdwl2NX4iyn48Q00liUNieyCi6p1KSM2cxSyQIUQstjdkYpXFomdQiIEyxEUxQeRGMCJXdR6ubAUBDjIZt3-nmeHUHwvZ1FA56lBI2tidlv0/s1600/Hannah+Fabelita+2+%25281%2529.jpg"><img style="display: block; margin: 0px auto 10px; text-align: center; cursor: pointer; width: 400px; height: 266px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEirVI3ttJpmdANaZAFwzPJDCfFuVpdnAWJZdwl2NX4iyn48Q00liUNieyCi6p1KSM2cxSyQIUQstjdkYpXFomdQiIEyxEUxQeRGMCJXdR6ubAUBDjIZt3-nmeHUHwvZ1FA56lBI2tidlv0/s400/Hannah+Fabelita+2+%25281%2529.jpg" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_56978283644794598" border="0" /></a> "The crux on the lower section"<br /></div><br />She finally got past this point for the first time just after Maria´s arrival but slightly missing the mono she fell of the next big undercling move.<br /><br /><div style="text-align: center;"><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhulX8vmd86Mz109K2YAOdmsGQr777DaiCqXXAhJyqXZ1nzNT5gUX_aY58uVN4rFTY7BPiuCs4iHdZux0KRNCj0GSyCpShzdHbqa6etsROzPXpoXTbZd7UdKWyh3oc7yFwlfkPGk4UxiZ0/s1600/Hannah+Fabelita+7.jpg"><img style="display: block; margin: 0px auto 10px; text-align: center; cursor: pointer; width: 400px; height: 267px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhulX8vmd86Mz109K2YAOdmsGQr777DaiCqXXAhJyqXZ1nzNT5gUX_aY58uVN4rFTY7BPiuCs4iHdZux0KRNCj0GSyCpShzdHbqa6etsROzPXpoXTbZd7UdKWyh3oc7yFwlfkPGk4UxiZ0/s400/Hannah+Fabelita+7.jpg" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5697834134055232050" border="0" /></a>"The mono"<br /></div><br /><br />Then when Mathilda arrived with the wind a few days later she once again made it past the "rest", but this time fell of few moves higher looking very solid but missing a bad pinch...<br /><br /><div style="text-align: center;"><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi5-rfelG0K0toKOv8miaW04cpZpA92yrUzqlEBGugwmTpYU7q2AKICnLWxyV9rpsJgExlwALv_FQ5zK2NHMbzjnFTNR3tYF3tb7wnvCi8Xu6Q3VxeiVltvitk3LdHT8PQ1wTItNKBoUZw/s1600/Hannah+Fabelita+4.jpg"><img style="display: block; margin: 0px auto 10px; text-align: center; cursor: pointer; width: 267px; height: 400px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi5-rfelG0K0toKOv8miaW04cpZpA92yrUzqlEBGugwmTpYU7q2AKICnLWxyV9rpsJgExlwALv_FQ5zK2NHMbzjnFTNR3tYF3tb7wnvCi8Xu6Q3VxeiVltvitk3LdHT8PQ1wTItNKBoUZw/s400/Hannah+Fabelita+4.jpg" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5697828407862540290" border="0" /></a>"The pinch"<br /></div><br />A few days after Mathilda´s departure Hannah once again got past the lower section. The light was fading and once she got to the "rest" she was the only one on the wall.<br />A massive crowd gathered to watch including her brother Magnus (Midtbø), Maria, Martin (Mobråten), Tom, Lynne, Chris (Sharma), Daila and about 20 Spanish guys as she sent the route as the first ever female and the first Scandinavian woman ever to do 8c!<br /><br /><div style="text-align: center;"><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg9U9mHrBHC5xcxRuK2pDI6jyBa4aVYI1CHLXunLVT-KZuPFXFoyM9NwPZN-WZdcnqNKlgp3dl-e5vcn2kT7VqRB0JFyLUluQSEwpJjASBXeMygehz7fS_Y2Yoe_bVVsL7cb7L85-vmUww/s1600/Hannah+Fabelita+6.jpg"><img style="display: block; margin: 0px auto 10px; text-align: center; cursor: pointer; width: 400px; height: 267px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg9U9mHrBHC5xcxRuK2pDI6jyBa4aVYI1CHLXunLVT-KZuPFXFoyM9NwPZN-WZdcnqNKlgp3dl-e5vcn2kT7VqRB0JFyLUluQSEwpJjASBXeMygehz7fS_Y2Yoe_bVVsL7cb7L85-vmUww/s400/Hannah+Fabelita+6.jpg" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5697834129653466978" border="0" /></a>"Just before the mono"</div><br /><div style="text-align: center;"><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhUb2q9HxbSM-kijjtIh9p_8l1worG83We9LRpDdL7i8F2e_sNqP3ntdBUkYLU3tnphArobuGykHdJDUrpMnPD0JTb30GHjvWgYV9A9zk-AoRQYROiX0VZMFKzXacDLWpN-_U_v0seAddI/s1600/Hannah+Fabelita+5.jpg"><img style="display: block; margin: 0px auto 10px; text-align: center; cursor: pointer; width: 267px; height: 400px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhUb2q9HxbSM-kijjtIh9p_8l1worG83We9LRpDdL7i8F2e_sNqP3ntdBUkYLU3tnphArobuGykHdJDUrpMnPD0JTb30GHjvWgYV9A9zk-AoRQYROiX0VZMFKzXacDLWpN-_U_v0seAddI/s400/Hannah+Fabelita+5.jpg" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5697828414108732498" border="0" /></a>"After the pinch"<br /></div>Wanghttp://www.blogger.com/profile/14840965362641239826noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5406441149653791722.post-81454339757604483272011-05-10T08:01:00.000-07:002011-05-10T15:06:41.222-07:00The new adventures of Henning the Barbarian part 3After a longer break from the blog work, I sat down 2 nights to create part 3.<br />Not as smooth as the first perhaps, but a lot less time consuming edit, this goes more into my original idea of time and effort I´am willing to put into a piece of a blog. <br /><br />As you might see the quality is much improved from the first 2 parts. This is because I finally figured out the compression settings and actually payed for Vimeo+ to be able to upload larger files (above 500mb). <br />The irony beeing that I actually have to pay money for you to be able to see my work the way it was meant to be in full 1080 HD quality. Unfortunatly the Vimeo site still reduces the quality quite a bit, so for those with a big screen or a god internet connection the download option is recommended. <br /><br />As a side note I can say that I recompressed part 1 and 2, they are now also up in 1080 HD if you for some reason want to watch/download them again:)<br /><br />In part 3 I changed to focus a bit away from me and over to some of my visiting friends Tobias and Ole Karsten. How ever, not having shot so much of Tobias the spotlight seems to favor Ole this time:)<br /><br />For those waiting to see more of Hannah I am sorry to disappoint yet again, it will come eventually. Part 4 is not so far away, and I can promise some actual climbing done by Hannah will be shown:) <br /><br />As another side note: I find myself in need of a new tripod (as the one I have is severely broken) and some new lenses (since my creative needs are growing beyond my trusted 24-105), and I`m all but broke... <br />Thus I find my self in a position where I`m willing to sell out.<br />So if anyone wants to sponsor the blog and/or the upcoming film, or just pay me to add logos, commercials or whatever in the blog/film, I`m open for business:)<br /><br />And ye, here is Part 3: Enjoy:)<br /><br /><iframe src="http://player.vimeo.com/video/23532171?title=0&byline=0&portrait=0" width="398" height="224" frameborder="0"></iframe>Wanghttp://www.blogger.com/profile/14840965362641239826noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5406441149653791722.post-4220860080996490722011-04-03T15:27:00.000-07:002011-04-03T23:09:29.495-07:00While we wait..I have been going through some old film clips lately and I have decided to upload this old classic of me doing "Just call me Helmet" 7c+/8a in Thailand in 2006.<br /><br /><iframe src="http://player.vimeo.com/video/21907622?title=0&byline=0&portrait=0" width="398" height="294" frameborder="0"></iframe><br /><br />The hardest route I had done before this was one 7c in Hell just outside my home town Trondheim. I then went bouldering for a time so when I got on this I really had no point of referance and thus can`t properly comment on the grade.<br /> <br />I spent 6 days on the route with Torstein Magnussen as my faithful belayer. I constantly fell on the last move after day 2 so some footage is from the the attempts and some like the top shots are from the actual accent. <br /><br />The last day on it I got this american guy to belay me while Torstein jumared up a fixed line for the first time in he`s life to capture the action from a rope.<br />There is some shaky hands at times, but for he`s first time, I will say Torstein did a very good job filming.<br /><br />I did the main edit some years ago for a larger film project but my computer crashed and the hard drive was beyond saving so this was all that remained.. The footage is luckily on tape so one day (not today, or any day soon) I might go through it and make something more of it:)<br /><br />For now thought enjoy this little clip and feel free to comment if there is some tech bugs still needed to be fixed:)Wanghttp://www.blogger.com/profile/14840965362641239826noreply@blogger.com3tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5406441149653791722.post-49254704950675378192011-03-15T10:58:00.000-07:002011-03-16T13:49:21.705-07:00The new adventures of Henning the Barbarian part 2It`s been about two months since the first part and I`m finally happy to present part 2!<br /> <br />As whit part 1 i had to breach new ground, test some new ideas and as always face quite a lot of new problems with a lot of technical things I won`t dwell on any further.<br />I can say that i waited for quite some time to get some sound recording gear from the states to do some proper self intervjus and voiceovers, and leave it at that:)<br /><br /><br />The days down here melt together like butter in a frying pan. We get up, eat breakfast, drive for about an hour to the crag, climb all day, drive for an hour back, struggle whit finding parking, find parking, eat dinner, watch some old episodes of prison break or just a movie, fall asleep on the couch and finally have to drag my tired body to the bedroom to get some shut eye before it all starts again the next day.<br />Am i complaining? Not at all, I love this shit, I would not want to have it any other way:)<br /><br />Every third day is usually a rest day and a if we don`t have extra guests i usually get to do some editing. <br />I am how ever also working on a film project from last year I`v named: "The Real Deal". (A trailer will come when it comes)<br /><br />Between the mac beeing the entertainment center in the middle of the living room, several time consuming projects, taking care of all the little things in every day life, actually having to go out and film, and of course me not beeing the fastest or the most efficient guy around I`m just happy I get it done at all:)<br /><br />Since there is only two of us most of the time, I have had little choice but to leave the camera on the ground on it`s own shooting a fixed frame from a fixed position.<br />Most of the time however the camera is not filming, or the footage is useless do to changes in the light, a flat battery or a full memory card...<br />The footage is shoot in crisp 1920x1080 full hd but unfortunaly had to be compressed to a tiny size of questionable quality for uploading to the internet.. I am still working on how to keep some of the quality and colors after compression. <br /><br />I did how ever manage to scrape together some watchable footage and slap it together in my own extremly slow way and even after the heartbreaking lose of quality in the compression I`m still happy whit the end result:) <br /><br /><iframe src="http://player.vimeo.com/video/21111320" width="400" height="225" frameborder="0"></iframe><p><a href="http://vimeo.com/21111320">The new adventures of Henning the Barbarian part 2</a> from <a href="http://vimeo.com/user2904138">Henning Wang</a> on <a href="http://vimeo.com">Vimeo</a>.</p>Wanghttp://www.blogger.com/profile/14840965362641239826noreply@blogger.com3tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5406441149653791722.post-7755866319219501682011-01-25T02:06:00.000-08:002011-01-25T02:11:01.379-08:00The new adventures of Henning the Barbarian part 1This time I will try to keep the blogg in english so that not only the Norvegians can read it!<br />I was going to test the concept of a videoblogg this time. It tok me way longer then planned to just edit this first part so we`ll see if I keep doing video or if i go back to text and pictures or some sort of mix in the future. For now enjoy my hard work in this first part!<br /><br /><iframe src="http://player.vimeo.com/video/19161748" width="400" height="300" frameborder="0"></iframe><p><a href="http://vimeo.com/19161748">The new adventures of Henning the Barbarian part 1</a> from <a href="http://vimeo.com/user2904138">Henning Wang</a> on <a href="http://vimeo.com">Vimeo</a>.</p>Wanghttp://www.blogger.com/profile/14840965362641239826noreply@blogger.com7